2190 replies
Post here if you have detailed step-by-step instructions or videos on how to disassemble and reassemble the table, as well as changing out the cloth, cup holders, etc. And if you're in the market for one, show off your results here!
Finally figured out some carrying handles.
Materials:
2 guitar amp handles: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Leather-St...eg-Vox-Black-Vintage-Style-H1008/382129391886 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Leather-Style-Guitar-Amp-Handle-Fender-Ampeg-Vox-Black-Vintage-Style-H1008/382129391886)
1 yard of strap material: https://www.dritz.com/quilting-sewi...straps/polypropylene-webbing-belting/28602-1/ (https://www.dritz.com/quilting-sewing-supplies/sewing/buckles-belting-straps/polypropylene-webbing-belting/28602-1/)
2 wood screws
I got the strap material from a local fabric store (JoAnn's).
The handles work great. The table is pretty heavy but with the handles much less awkward to carry and two people can carry it pretty easily. When the table is set up the handles hang underneath but they are really not noticeable.
(https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/img_2890-jpg.183049/) 
(https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/img_2905-jpg.183050/) 
(https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/img_2906-jpg.183051/) 
(https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/img_2907-jpg.183052/) 
(https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/img_2908-jpg.183053/) 
(https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/img_2909-jpg.183054/) 
(https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/img_2910-jpg.183055/)
These look very handy, I might have to do it too.
Supplies for storage and protection seem to be limited for poker tables. These are what I found so far:
https://www.americangamingsupply.com/pokertablecovers.aspx
https://casino4you.com/casino-suppl...-and-poker-table-carry-bags/table-carry-bags/ (https://casino4you.com/casino-supplies/poker-table-covers-and-poker-table-carry-bags/table-carry-bags/)
@sharpcr (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/271/) @Eric Schweitzer (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/3089/) did you guys take pictures of the before and after process and step by step? If so, can you post here?
Did anyone else have this issue with their table out of the box? Seems like flimsy screws or they drilled the holes too wide.
I've found that the placement of those tension bars varies and can cause the screws to pop out :-(
I've had to reposition one side on my table.
I've found that the placement of those tension bars varies and can cause the screws to pop out :-(
I've had to reposition one side on my table.
That seems to have been the case. I'm gonna try with thicker screws this weekend and see if that works.
Mine did not have the issue but my buddies certainly did. Drilled them back in and it’s been fine since.
Does anyone know if there's a difference between the three tables below besides the felt? I've seen these tables consistently for this style of table and almost always the first table (brown felt) is the cheapest. I looked at the specs of each and they're identical besides the felt. Is the discount (usually $50-$120) on the first table just because it's got uglier felt?
The last one comes with handles already but they're in a pretty poor spot so I'll likely get one of the first two and add my own handles.
Also has anyone tried re-felting the ESPN version of this table with the LED lights?
Maybe it's cheaper because it was their first in the product line, and they either ordered more of that one for initial manufacturing or got a better deal at the time? I might be giving strange-sounding advice here, but try going on local craigslist and finding a really cheap but serviceable used folding-leg table, and then putting some money aside every month until you've got enough for a basic custom, either built by @T_Chan (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/71/) or someone more local, that you'll be happier about in the long run. It's a natural progression, start with least expensive everything, upgrade your chips, then upgrade your table. Everyone wins in the end!
It's a natural progression, start with least expensive everything, upgrade your chips, then upgrade your table.
I agree and hear what you're saying but I can't fit a non-folding table let alone a 8x4 in the space I'm playing in right now. I'm looking at these used but still found the similar price difference between them all and since its something I'll have for a few years it'd be worth it to me to spend an extra $50 if there's a difference besides the felt. As for overall cost, I'm estimating it'll be around $200-250 including re-felting, adding in new and deeper cup holders, plus a few handles which is a drop in the bucket considering I just purchased a barrel of hundos for $200 alone.
If anyone knows if there's a structural or manufacturing benefit with the more expensive tables please let me know :D
Crappy picture sneak peak. Was in a big hurry to finish so didn't get to document as much as I wanted to. I'm an idiot when it comes to diy and this was super easy. Happy to answer any questions.
All done. Hardest part for me was getting the hinges back on and working right. Some clamps helped tremendously.
Looks great!
Looks great!
Thanks. Toying with the idea of making some custom rails down the road so it would be 1 piece on each side instead of 3. Would make them taller with better cup holders also.
@saleen121212 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/4738/) question: in this picture (more visible in the one before this one) there’s what may be chalk marks on the far side of the table near the edge of the felt. Are these chalk marks (if so what purpose) and if not what are they?
Also, in this picture have you just not cut the felt on the near side of the table yet or do you wrap it underneath the table and staple gun it there?
@saleen121212 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/4738/) question: in this picture (more visible in the one before this one) there’s what may be chalk marks on the far side of the table near the edge of the felt. Are these chalk marks (if so what purpose) and if not what are they?
Also, in this picture have you just not cut the felt on the near side of the table yet or do you wrap it underneath the table and staple gun it there?
Not sure which picture you mean, but it was probably the lighting or dust. No chalk. The half closer to me was not stapled or cut yet I stapled both on top under where the arm rests would go.
One pro tip I can give is you might find it alot easier to put the hinges and legs back on before the arm rests. One of my rails was to far forward and created a gap between the two halfs when it was all finished. Had to redo the rail and all hinges.
Thanks for the info would have definitely run into that issue if you hadn’t mentioned it. Is the felt from YAT?
As for the picture I was referring to these:
Thanks for the info would have definitely run into that issue if you hadn’t mentioned it. Is the felt from YAT?
As for the picture I was referring to these:
Nah I went with the cheap stuff from Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/?tag=amznpcfx-20) since I had no idea what I was doing. The silver things are the staples if that's what you mean
Really interested in the table. May get the ESPN version. Would this table really sit 10? My guess is no, but it looks like 8 people might feel cramped.
What do you think?
10 might work but it would be pretty cramped.
Just did mine last night. Pretty straightforward project and took about 90 minutes. The only semi tricky part when getting the rail sections to line up when reattaching them to the playing surface - I ended up laying on the floor and putting a couple screws in place, then flipping the whole thing to screw the rest down.
One tip I might add is to try to reupholster your table in a clean space where you can work around the perimeter 360 degrees. In my instance, I used my office.
The only modification I made was I used some longer screws when I reattached the gusset part of the table legs to the frame.
In the future, I expect the cheap vinyl on the rails to tear - in which case I'll either replace them entirely with a one-piece ring or simply reupholster the sections with a more durable product.
90 minutes? I should have paid you to do mine. I guessing doing it in the living room with a baby and your wife arguing with you about the best way to do it slows you down lol! I also used way too many staples but had no idea what I was doing so I wanted it to be tight.
I would have done it in trade for some of those Horseshoe Quarters in your profile pic... those are slick :)
I don't think you used too many staples... better to use too many than not enough and have it tear when you're pulling it taut.
It's probably worth pointing out that I've built many tables before, so doing the upholstery work isn't anything new to me... I think it took longer to take apart and re-assemble than it did to actually re-felt the table.
I know this isn't Barrington :eek: but has anyone owned or tried refelting one of these tables? I see the a lot and they look like they may have better rails plus ones available near me for $50.
I know this isn't Barrington :eek: but has anyone owned or tried refelting one of these tables? I see the a lot and they look like they may have better rails plus ones available near me for $50.
It depends on how the rail sections come off and how the felt is attached to the playing surface. If the rails are simply screwed in place from the underside of the table then they should pop right off... and even if the felt is attached using some type of adhesive you could just go over the top of it with your SSC and not deal with it.
What makes the Barrington tables so convenient to reupholster is that the stock cloth just peels right off the padding with no adhesive residues to deal with. Not sure about this one... so the best thing to do is start disassembling and see what you're working with.
I know this isn't Barrington :eek: but has anyone owned or tried refelting one of these tables? I see the a lot and they look like they may have better rails plus ones available near me for $50.
View attachment 208764 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/208764/)
I've redone a couple of those table types for friends, and it's a real PITA. Easiest way to get a new playing surface is to make a fitted insert (1/4" MDF) with padding/felt and just set it in place on top of the existing table (inside the rail circumference). You lose rail depth, but trying to do anything else is usually much more than you bargained for.
The construction techniques used on those tables are typically designed to be quick and very inexpensive (aka often shoddy), making disassembly extremely difficult and almost impossible to do without destroying something. Often the outer edge of the rail covering is stapled/glued to the underside of the table, and then wrapped up, over, and back under the rail top and is also stapled/glued to the table top under the rail, if that makes sense (and actually constructed in reverse order). Some rails aren't even really fully wrapped at all, but just have vinyl on two sides with the playing surface glued on top of the vinyl (which is glued/stapled to the table). Difficult to describe without corresponding pics, but once you discover how they're done during disassembly, it's a combination of OMG and WTF. Bottom line: the rail generally doesn't come off of the table unless you destroy it, so easily getting down to just the playing surface felt isn't feasible.
After repairing the second one, I decided it's not worth the effort/cost. I just consider them disposable tables -- cheap, functional for awhile, and when they break or need repair, just throw 'em away. Similar to War Games, the only winning move is not to play buy.
Wish I had the room to get a real table or else I'd be all over it plus I do like taking things apart and putting them back together / modding them, computers, engines, plumbing, toaster ovens... have little idea what I'm doing to start but you name it and I'll take it apart to figure out how it works !
Ok so here goes!
I did this today. Quick primer, i suck at diy, had only 4 clamps, a staple gun and a manual philips screwdriver. I would advise you probably want at least a posi drive if not an electric drill/screwdriver. Going to take you through my steps, along with a piece of advice so you can do this too. I would not say it is easy, it took me nearly 5 hours, but like i said, I had rudimentary tools and wanted to make sure i didnt screw up...
LABEL EVERYTHING! It makes everything a million times easier. Label the legs, the table sections, the legs attachments, the hinges. Just do it.
Remove legs. I place them in this position with the right leg over the left side. My table was very taught with the silver cable between the legs so it made this a tiny bit awkward at first.
Remove the felt. You are best off just ripping it out from under the staples on the underside.
Cut your felt. I used Suited cloth from amazon (https://www.amazon.com/?tag=amznpcfx-20) which was fine for me. I trimmed it to just larger than the table overall first, used clamps to hold it tight across the foam, then stapled. Take your time and you will be fine. I then trimmed the cloth again after stapling so it was smaller than the rails and would be hidden suitably.
Honestly, i managed to do this in an apartment in New York City with pretty much the most rudimentary skills and tools possible. I think anyone with a modicum of room and a good power screwdriver should be able to. However, I would advise you take your time and plan your steps. Hopefully this guide helps!
Any questions lets me know!
JC
nice writeup! and yeah, I also lost a screw in the process :ROFL: :ROFLMAO:
I didnt lose a screw, it just would not screw in more than halfway! Like i said, think my hinges were pretty poorly screwed in originally tbh...
Well done! Very resourceful.
Weren't these on sale for $99 last black friday? Looks like wally world has them for 156 shipped currently. I need a new table since I sold mine before the move. I'm tempted to get one just as a temp table until I settle. I guess I need to get some new friends first, though! :LOL: :laugh:
Very cool. Saving for later...
Weren't these on sale for $99 last black friday? Looks like wally world has them for 156 shipped currently. I need a new table since I sold mine before the move. I'm tempted to get one just as a temp table until I settle. I guess I need to get some new friends first, though! :LOL: :laugh:
I was waiting them to go on another big sale, and now they’re up to $189.99.:(
I was waiting them to go on another big sale, and now they’re up to $189.99.:(
Really think we need to stop price checking everyday for a month.
Has anyone added better cup holders to one of these yet?
Has anyone added better cup holders to one of these yet?
Pro tip - instead of changing the cupholders, I simply forced everybody to bring cans of beer - so much less likely to topple over than bottles and fill the holders quite well!
I’m having trouble removing my cup holders. I don’t want to yank on them and rip the vinyl. I’ve managed to get a couple out but they sure did use a liberal amount of glue. Any tips?
Anyone here have SSC in platinum that they've done?? Would like to see the whole table in that color.
Edit: I actually found Reverse Platinum SSC that looks awesome. Anyone ever order from this company??
http://texaspokersupply.com/store/reverse-platinum-suited-speed-cloth/
Well, I received one for my birthday, which I nagged her to open early :) Glad I did because I wanted to change the felt before my first home game. My wife was originally a little miffed that I wanted to change the cloth so soon, and worried about what it would look like. But I assured her that it was the norm, hahah. I ordered samples from YAT and wasn't really sold on any of them. Then I found the reverse platinum SSC from Texas Poker Supply. It's awesome. The pictures don't even do it justice. It looks so great in person. My wife was actually really happy the way it turned out. It really does look like a much better table now. The wife and I have been playing heads up on it for the past couple of nights. Im stoked to get an actual game going on it.
The process wasn't really that bad. Just time consuming. All in I would say about 4 hours. And I was mostly working by myself. Just made sure to put everything in one area. The legs aren't bad, just make sure you pay attention to how they come off. The hardest part I would say is lining up the fabric between the two halves. Clamps really came in handy as well. I used 8 per side. Maybe a bit overkill, but it definitely helped. And the glued cupholders. Christ, they used a lot, at least on my table. I attempted to pry up, but felt like they were going to come through the rail. So I used a hairdryer like someone suggested and they popped up very quickly. Like I said, really very easy. Just give yourself enough time and space.
Here are some pics. First ones are in the daytime light. Definitely pops. The others are after my wife played around with staging and whatnot. Haha. She was having too much fun. Enjoy!!
Edit: Can only add a couple. Not sure why, but I will work on it.
Anyone have any advice on how to purchase these at discounted prices? Does their pricing fluctuate throughout the year? Are they normally marked down on Black Friday? Any tips? Seems like a fun project for the right price. Thanks!
Anyone have any advice on how to purchase these at discounted prices? Does their pricing fluctuate throughout the year? Are they normally marked down on Black Friday? Any tips? Seems like a fun project for the right price. Thanks!
Christmas 2017 they were $100. Saw them for 160 normally now they are over $200. Think the traffic of us is driving the price up. I’m in a holding pattern until they are $160 or less.
Anyone have any advice on how to purchase these at discounted prices? Does their pricing fluctuate throughout the year? Are they normally marked down on Black Friday? Any tips? Seems like a fun project for the right price. Thanks!
Remember to look at all 3 versions (brown, blue, and ESPN). ESPN w/ light was the cheapest one a few months ago even though it was the most expensive for a while.
As @Forty4 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/700/) has mentioned, the more we look them up, the higher the price goes.
Wish they made a 96 inch version of this.
Wish they made a 96 inch version of this.
too big to carry at least for me and I'm still young and in good shape! the current version is already a pain in the ass to move even across the room folded
Not harder to move and store my 96 that does not fold in half ...
Not harder to move and store my 96 that does not fold in half ...
I guess you need to start a company and make 96" folding tables ! :D
Thank you all for the information. I will stop googling so price isn’t inflated lol. If anyone sees a great deal please post!!
I'm holding as well for the 120-140 price range.
Keep checking. I got the espn table a few months ago for $129 from Walmart
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Barringt...-Poker-Checker-Chess-and-Backgammon/295305894 (https://www.walmart.com/ip/Barrington-6-Players-5-in-1-Multi-Game-Poker-Table-Blackjack-Poker-Checker-Chess-and-Backgammon/295305894)
5 in 1 table currently at $140.
Does anyone know if this model is as sturdy as the straight poker tables that are more? I'm considering getting this and probably just chucking the other tops. (Or maybe giving them away as portable table toppers?)
There is one for sale in the town right next to me, brand new in box, for $55. Seems like a no-brainer instant buy, right?
Edit: Looks like this table is quite a bit smaller than the normal 10-player version.
Deleting my post. Its not on the right thread about the table.
Can someone give me the total thickness of the 10 man table when it’s folded up. Looking to see if this is going to fit somewhere for storage.
Thanks
-Alen
Can someone give me the total thickness of the 10 man table when it’s folded up. Looking to see if this is going to fit somewhere for storage.
Thanks
-Alen
5-5.5?
5-5.5?
View attachment 269616 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/269616/)
Thanks bro, appreciate it
Anyone know of a good cover to protect this while it's folded up, especially in transport?
Back down to $180 still not $100 but better than the $230 they were the past few weeks.
I’m on the cusp of buying one now, tired of waiting. One thing I’m questioning is how comfortable the arm rests are — they look super boxy, sharp, and stiff. Can anyone comment on how it feels playing for 3+ hours?
I’m on the cusp of buying one now, tired of waiting. One thing I’m questioning is how comfortable the arm rests are — they look super boxy, sharp, and stiff. Can anyone comment on how it feels playing for 3+ hours?
If you're a heavy arm rester you'll definitely start to feel it but you'll manageable. I'd always advise going for a lightly used non-folding table from facebook marketplace/offerup/letgo etc. You can usually get something awesome for $300-$400 - so about double a Barrington. Granted most people inevitably invest another $30-$150 in fixing up into Barrington tables for new felt/hinge/handles/deep cupholders etc etc etc.
If you don't have the room though and need a folding table then they're your best and practically only option.
I picked mine up last night and even though I only “spent” $50 on mine as I had gift cards, I will say I was a little disappointed. I’ll try to take pictures this weekend but visible staples on the underside of the rail, poorly inserted screws, poor rail padding, poor wrapping job on the rail.
Now if I was getting this for sub $100 I would expect those things but the current price of $180 I just want to let everyone know what to expect. I think money could be spent in better ways. I got this as a travel table and not sure how long it will actually hold up to travel before something happens.
We will also see how it goes when I redo the gaming surface.
After contemplating for a while I finally picked up one these tables. Had the wife give me a hand to take it apart and throw some new speed cloth on. I went with the reverse platinum and it really upgraded the look of the table big time. I got it all back together but my issue is that it doesn’t seem as stable in the center of the table. You guys think it’s the hinges? Legs? I tried my best putting everything back exactly how they were. Any help to solve this issue without taking everything completely apart again would be appreciated.
Only progress shot I took till I get a game together
Thanks
-Alen
Anyone tried to dim the original LED lights of the ESPN Barrington table? I found that they are too bright, therefore unusable...
Anyone tried to dim the original LED lights of the ESPN Barrington table? I found that they are too bright, therefore unusable...
not me but a couple here had and said the same
wondering if such kind of dimmer can make the trick
https://www.amazon.com/Controller-V...rDC12-24V-Conjunction-sync-work/dp/B071S7Q42Z (https://www.amazon.com/Controller-Vasten-Wireless-ControllerDC12-24V-Conjunction-sync-work/dp/B071S7Q42Z?tag=amznpcfx-20)
Went through the speed cloth swap out on the Barrington this afternoon. PSA: pay attention as to what side of the speed cloth will be showing! :D. I was in such a rush to get it back together that I think one of the halves cloth is upside down. Either side is 10000x better than that shitty felt. Hopefully none of my buddies notice it or I'm sure I'll never live it down lol.
For those who did custom felts, how did you get the image centered so perfectly if you have to cut the felt in half?
For those who did custom felts, how did you get the image centered so perfectly if you have to cut the felt in half?
The suited speed felt is pretty forgiving as far as the pattern goes. As long as you don't put it on crooked, it isn't difficult to get the pattern reasonably close when you go to reupholster the second half.
If I recall, I think I used spring clamps to hold the felt in place on the curved end as I stretched and lined it up with the other half, then I stapled it. The felt wraps around the edge of the playing surface and there's a slight gap between the two halves so it's not like it needs to match up perfectly to look decent.
The suited speed felt is pretty forgiving as far as the pattern goes. As long as you don't put it on crooked, it isn't difficult to get the pattern reasonably close when you go to reupholster the second half.
If I recall, I think I used spring clamps to hold the felt in place on the curved end as I stretched and lined it up with the other half, then I stapled it. The felt wraps around the edge of the playing surface and there's a slight gap between the two halves so it's not like it needs to match up perfectly to look decent.
What I have seen thus far have been reupholstered with a speed cloth. What I meant was a custom logo. How much leeway should you tell a designer to use so the final product won't look uneven when replaced?
What I have seen thus far have been reupholstered with a speed cloth. What I meant was a custom logo. How much leeway should you tell a designer to use so the final product won't look uneven when replaced?
If you deal with @T_Chan (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/71/) he will print it so that it’ll line up nicely:
If you deal with @T_Chan (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/71/) he will print it so that it’ll line up nicely:View attachment 306841 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/306841/)View attachment 306842 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/306842/)
That is a really good design to work with a seam. The smaller repeating design helps disguise the seam whereas one big logo would telegraph the seam.
If you deal with @T_Chan (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/71/) he will print it so that it’ll line up nicely:View attachment 306841 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/306841/)View attachment 306842 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/306842/)
This is exactly what I mean. Thanks wonderpuddle!
What I have seen thus far have been reupholstered with a speed cloth. What I meant was a custom logo. How much leeway should you tell a designer to use so the final product won't look uneven when replaced?
If your discussing something like a giant detailed logo in the center of the table (ala center ice of a hockey arena), I wouldn't try to reupholster a Barrington table that way. I don't think you could get the logo halves to line up considering that the material needs to be stretched over the ends of the playing surface and stapled to the underside.
Now if we're discussing a repeating pattern like in @wonderpuddle (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/3167/)'s example, then getting the pattern lined up shouldn't be too difficult since there's plenty of excess material to get it lined up the way you want it.
Whenever I do a design for a cloth for a table with a fold, I do the artwork in 2 halves with plenty of extra space where the center of the table will be. Any logo, whether it's a pattern or a single large image isn't a problem.
^^ Professional tables and cloths from @T_Chan (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/71/).
Emphasis on professional.
Couple questions... but first just want to say how good of idea this is. I've been struggling with finding a table at a reasonable price with speed cloth, and not having the time to do a full table build.
Where do you guys order the speed cloth from? And how much of it? I've seen it on Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/?tag=amznpcfx-20) but wasn't sure if thags the right place to order it.
I'm a fan of classic looks, so I was going to go with green. Any issues with that? I've noticed a lot of people like blue.
When applying the cloth, is it as simple as stapling one side, and then pulling the other side super tight, and then stapling that end? And then repeat for all sides? Cut excess off. Want to make sure it's on there smooth but also not rip it.
How stable is it? Does require any reinforcement?
Thanks!
Couple questions... but first just want to say how good of idea this is. I've been struggling with finding a table at a reasonable price with speed cloth, and not having the time to do a full table build.
Where do you guys order the speed cloth from? And how much of it? I've seen it on Amazon but wasn't sure if thags the right place to order it.
I'm a fan of classic looks, so I was going to go with green. Any issues with that? I've noticed a lot of people like blue.
When applying the cloth, is it as simple as stapling one side, and then pulling the other side super tight, and then stapling that end? And then repeat for all sides? Cut excess off. Want to make sure it's on there smooth but also not rip it.
How stable is it? Does require any reinforcement?
Thanks!
Welcome to PCF :)
Barrington tables are a decent product and a solid value for the price... can comfortably seat 9 and are easily modifiable.
https://www.yourautotrim.com (https://www.yourautotrim.com/) is a good source for the premium SSC. Texas Poker Supply (a PCF vendor) also has quality stuff. If you see the SSC that's 1/2 the price as others (like you find on Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/?tag=amznpcfx-20)), it's a lower quality fabric so buyer beware.
The Barrington table is 7 feet long. So the standard 9 ft roll is more than enough.
The vinyl is black, so any color you choose is going to be fine. That said, SSC does come in some brighter colors that people have expressed a disdain for - so I'd be conservative in your color choice unless you want to give your guests a migraine :)
Yes reupholstering the playing surface is pretty easy... I did mine in 90 minutes. Search PCF for 'Barrington' and read the walkthroughs people have been kind enough to post.
As to stability, it's an 8.5 out of 10. Very acceptable for the price but it can wobble a little bit if someone bumps into it with a little force.
The one thing you might one to think of is installing deeper cupholders. The ones that come with it are only about 1" deep, and we've had spills. I posted a thread about my project earlier this month.
Couple questions... but first just want to say how good of idea this is. I've been struggling with finding a table at a reasonable price with speed cloth, and not having the time to do a full table build.
Where do you guys order the speed cloth from? And how much of it? I've seen it on Amazon but wasn't sure if thags the right place to order it.
I'm a fan of classic looks, so I was going to go with green. Any issues with that? I've noticed a lot of people like blue.
When applying the cloth, is it as simple as stapling one side, and then pulling the other side super tight, and then stapling that end? And then repeat for all sides? Cut excess off. Want to make sure it's on there smooth but also not rip it.
How stable is it? Does require any reinforcement?
Thanks!
I got my cloth from amazon (https://www.amazon.com/?tag=amznpcfx-20) and it’s great.
Went with deep green and am v happy, deep navy or deep burgundy also classy.
I used cheap clamps to make sure cloth was stretched and ready for staple, but the way you suggest probably works.
Table doesn’t need reinforcement, just have 2 people put it up and fold away so you don’t stress the hinges you will have taken apart and reassembled...
Good luck and let me know any questions!
With fall around the corner I should be recovering mine. Also debating on the deeper cup holders.
First half done! Going to be doing the other half tonight. Definitely not hard, just tedious with all of the screws and staples.
Which foam thickness did you used under the speed cloth?
Which foam thickness did you used under the speed cloth?
It comes padded. All you need to do is peel the cloth off.
Done! Can't believe how good it looks compared to the original. Don't understand why they don't start doing this and charge and extra 50 bucks.
It definitely wasn't hard, just tedious. I'd say the worst parts were stapling the felt down (just so many damn staples)... And the end of putting everything back together. Not hard, just a pain. I'm not sure what others think, but I it's my opinion this shouldn't be done more than once. I think it would be too much for the wood to handle. I know others have asked if you could make the cup holders deeper, and you definitely could with the rigjt tools. My only concern would be the wood being able to handle that kind of beating.
I do have 1 problem tho. See the last picture. On one of the rails at the one end, the screws would not grab into the wood at all. I pushed with everything I had, and it wouldn't grab. My thought process was the holes were probably too big now for the screws. Does anyone have any suggestions to help this? It's probably more visual than anything. But if someone accidentally pulls there, it would be an issue. Maybe glue it down? Adhesive? Bigger screws? Other than that it's great and ready for my Friday game! Thanks to everyone past and present in this thread.
Fill the holes with a golf tee or wooden match sticks and cut them flush with the surface. You should then be able to tighten the screws.
I know others have asked if you could make the cup holders deeper, and you definitely could with the rigjt tools. My only concern would be the wood being able to handle that kind of beating.
I do have 1 problem tho. See the last picture. On one of the rails at the one end, the screws would not grab into the wood at all. I pushed with everything I had, and it wouldn't grab. My thought process was the holes were probably too big now for the screws. Does anyone have any suggestions to help this? It's probably more visual than anything. But if someone accidentally pulls there, it would be an issue. Maybe glue it down? Adhesive? Bigger screws? Other than that it's great and ready for my Friday game! Thanks to everyone past and present in this thread.
Deeper cupholders make a big difference. All you need to do is take the old ones out, then bore through the bottom with a hole saw (2 3/4" I think). On mine, there were 4 spots where the tubular legs were in the way - I just zipped them off with a sawzall outfitted with a metal cutting blade.
Walmart has the best price on the cupholders you need: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Trademark-Poker-Lot-Of-10-Stainless-Steel-Cup-Holders/21070419
As to your stripped out screw hole, you can fill it (spackle, bondo or some type of wood-filler product would probably be fine), wait for it to dry and then run your screw in, or move it over slighty.
If it were me, I'd probably just drill a quick pilot hole right beside the stripped out one and run your screw in.
Deeper cupholders make a big difference. All you need to do is take the old ones out, then bore through the bottom with a hole saw (2 3/4" I think). On mine, there were 4 spots where the tubular legs were in the way - I just zipped them off with a sawzall outfitted with a metal cutting blade.
Walmart has the best price on the cupholders you need: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Trademark-Poker-Lot-Of-10-Stainless-Steel-Cup-Holders/21070419
.
Do you have a picture of the deeper cup holder installed? I’m assuming you would need to take the cup holders out when folding the table?
Do you have a picture of the deeper cup holder installed? I’m assuming you would need to take the cup holders out when folding the table?
https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/cup-holders-in-rail-questions.46001/#post-870077
To answer your question, no. The cupholders from Walmart are flush with the bottom and do not interfere with folding up.
Deeper cupholders make a big difference. ...
Walmart has the best price on the cupholders you need: https://www.walmart.com/ip/Trademark-Poker-Lot-Of-10-Stainless-Steel-Cup-Holders/21070419
...
Great price on those cupholders. How deep are they? The site seems to say they are 2 1/2, but they look shorter.
Great price on those cupholders. How deep are they? The site seems to say they are 2 1/2, but they look shorter.
That's about right:
These things work well for stripped screw holes too. You can find them at Home Depot as well.
https://www.amazon.com/Woodmate-2498-Screw-Repair-Steel/dp/B001B38ALG (https://www.amazon.com/Woodmate-2498-Screw-Repair-Steel/dp/B001B38ALG?tag=amznpcfx-20)
That's about right:
View attachment 346990 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/346990/)
If you get a chance to measure them, I would appreciate it. Just got black ones for a different table, they were 2 3/4" deep and I like them deep. I would not want to go less than 2 1/2" for the table I'm planning. Thanks.
If you get a chance to measure them, I would appreciate it. Just got black ones for a different table, they were 2 3/4" deep and I like them deep. I would not want to go less than 2 1/2" for the table I'm planning. Thanks.
They're about 2 inches deep.
Fully installed (the cutoff leg is visable in the rear):
Thanks very much!
Thanks for all of the responses about the stripped wood. I bought some plastic wood filler from home depot and will re-do that rail after my game on Friday.
Also seeing those cup holders makes me want to do that next.... What kind of drill attachment do you need?
Thanks for all of the responses about the stripped wood. I bought some plastic wood filler from home depot and will re-do that rail after my game on Friday.
Also seeing those cup holders makes me want to do that next.... What kind of drill attachment do you need?
This will bore right through and give you a nice clean cut (just make sure you don't run into the tubular legs that are mounted right below 4 of the cupholders):
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-2-3-4-in-Hole-Dozer-Hole-Saw-49-56-9635/202327755
You also need the arbor: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwauk...-Arbor-W-Pilot-Drill-Bit-49-56-7250/202256264 (https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-3-8-in-Quick-Change-Large-Hole-Saw-Arbor-W-Pilot-Drill-Bit-49-56-7250/202256264)
Just make sure your drill will accept a 3/8" shank.
This will bore right through and give you a nice clean cut (just make sure you don't run into the tubular legs that are mounted right below 4 of the cupholders):
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-2-3-4-in-Hole-Dozer-Hole-Saw-49-56-9635/202327755
You also need the arbor: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwauk...-Arbor-W-Pilot-Drill-Bit-49-56-7250/202256264 (https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-3-8-in-Quick-Change-Large-Hole-Saw-Arbor-W-Pilot-Drill-Bit-49-56-7250/202256264)
Just make sure your drill will accept a 3/8" shank.
Nice! Might not be so bad. Do you have to re-staple the felt around the hole you create so the felt still stays tight? And do you cut the felt first or just start drilling?
Nice! Might not be so bad. Do you have to re-staple the felt around the hole you create so the felt still stays tight? And do you cut the felt first or just start drilling?
No. Just remove the stock cupholders and bore through it all. The staples and the rail are plenty to hold the felt in place.
No. Just remove the stock cupholders and bore through it all. The staples and the rail are plenty to hold the felt in place.
Almost seems too easy! Thanks for the info
Decided to get some work done during my vacation time. Fixed one half of the SSC that was originally applied upside down, drilled for new cup holders (thanks @Moxie Mike (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/4492/)), and will be installing 10 usb charging ports and mounting a charging station underneath that will plug into an outlet
That’s a wicked cool idea!!
It’s not pretty but it’s functional!
All the sillyness is hidden under the table - pretty enough for me and my guys. Good deal there man
Decided to get some work done during my vacation time. Fixed one half of the SSC that was originally applied upside down, drilled for new cup holders (thanks @Moxie Mike (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/4492/)), and will be installing 10 usb charging ports and mounting a charging station underneath that will plug into an outlet
Where did you find those USB plugs?
Where did you find those USB plugs?
USB 2.0 Charging Extension Cable,USB 2.0 Male to 2 USB 2.0 Female Panel Mount Cable with Screw Hole for Wine Cabinet, Hotel,Furniture, Install USB Charging Port -5ft(1.5m)-2pcs (1.5m-2pcs) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07M6C2931/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_O5f5DbPN22936 (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07M6C2931/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_O5f5DbPN22936?tag=amznpcfx-20)
@Ben8257 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/5690/)
Just a heads up. The ESPN table is down to 149.99 right now and the brown felt 10 seater is down to 119.99 on walmart.com
Just a heads up. The ESPN table is down to 149.99 right now and the brown felt 10 seater is down to 119.99 on walmart.com
https://www.walmart.com/ip/ESPN-10-...-Table-with-In-Laid-LED-Lights-Gray/172140278 (https://www.walmart.com/ip/ESPN-10-Player-Premium-Foldable-Poker-Table-with-In-Laid-LED-Lights-Gray/172140278)
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Barrington-10-Player-Poker-Table-No-Assembly-Required/55465427
Just a heads up. The ESPN table is down to 149.99 right now and the brown felt 10 seater is down to 119.99 on walmart.com
What's the consensus on which is better? Is the ESPN $30 better in quality?
Does anyone make a storage case/bag for these tables?
What's the consensus on which is better? Is the ESPN $30 better in quality?
Does anyone make a storage case/bag for these tables?
Not sure about a case for these.
The ESPN table is practically the same, except it has a lighted rail. Kind of cool, but I've seen complaints that the lights are too bright. Not worth it for me. YMMV
What's the consensus on which is better? Is the ESPN $30 better in quality?
Does anyone make a storage case/bag for these tables?
I would spend the extra $30 you would save on SSC of your choosing and cup holders. Not sure about the case or bag but someone posted about a handles mod for easier carrying.
Just a heads up. The ESPN table is down to 149.99 right now and the brown felt 10 seater is down to 119.99 on walmart.com
Yep, the 10 player model is down to $116 for pickup, back to almost "worth it" price again. I bet it will drop down a little more in the last few days between now and Xmas.
What's the consensus on which is better? Is the ESPN $30 better in quality?
Does anyone make a storage case/bag for these tables?
The espn felt is slightly more palatable if you aren’t going to refelt. But you should refelt. The lights seem cool but are too bright. I never really use mine except to show new players how annoying the lights are. I’d recommend the regular version.
Quick question... After you put the new speed cloth on, and reinstall the rails... Do the cupholders just rest on top of the padded rail? Or do you reglue them back down to keep them in?
Quick question... After you put the new speed cloth on, and reinstall the rails... Do the cupholders just rest on top of the padded rail? Or do you reglue them back down to keep them in?
Yeah my stock cup holders just rested on top until I decide to put in deeper ones. You'd have to do a little cleaning or risk just gluing them back down with the old glue and stuff stuck to them. Alot of them didn't come up cleanly.
Yeah my stock cup holders just rested on top until I decide to put in deeper ones. You'd have to do a little cleaning or risk just gluing them back down with the old glue and stuff stuck to them. Alot of them didn't come up cleanly.
LoL, yeah, the bottoms are kinda a mess. Definitely a struggle to get any of that crap off.
Any tips for securing the rails back to the base in order to get them screwed in nice and tight? I hesitate to clamp to the padding...
LoL, yeah, the bottoms are kinda a mess. Definitely a struggle to get any of that crap off.
Any tips for securing the rails back to the base in order to get them screwed in nice and tight? I hesitate to clamp to the padding...
I screwed in one screw on both sides of each pad just enough to catch the holes on each pad. Once those are in, the others should fall into place where they need to be.
Holy crap, what a difference! Halfway done, and I just thought I would test it out. I guess I'm just used to crappy tables and surfaces, but the difference is like playing air hockey with the air on vs the air off! What an easy project and massive upgrade...
Bah. Created a video showing the difference (https://imgur.com/mmNL3qM), but can't seem to embed it. Either as a video, or as a GIF. Hrrrrm....
Holy crap, what a difference! Halfway done, and I just thought I would test it out. I guess I'm just used to crappy tables and surfaces, but the difference is like playing air hockey with the air on vs the air off! What an easy project and massive upgrade...
View attachment 383600 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/383600/)
Very nice, which speed felt did you use? Planning to so deeper cup holders or having okay luck with the current size?
Got it from Texas Poker Supplies (https://texaspokersupply.com/products/build-a-table/suited-speed-cloth/). $5 per foot. Bought 9 feet and probably could have gotten away with 8. Planning to replace the cupholders down the road, but that's an easy project. The current ones come back out easy and should be easy to drill new holes. Project for another day.
And.... done! Second half really flew now that I knew what I was doing.
What size staples do you guys use for the new felt?
What size staples do you guys use for the new felt?
I think I used 6mm staples. The material is only 1/2" thick - so reasonably speaking anything slightly less than the thickness of the playing surface should be fine.
Did anyone swap out the cup holders yet for shallow ones? I ordered some from Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/?tag=amznpcfx-20), but don't know what portable saw I should use for cutting.
Did anyone swap out the cup holders yet for shallow ones? I ordered some from Amazon, but don't know what portable saw I should use for cutting.
Yup. Big improvement.
https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/cup-holders-in-rail-questions.46001/#post-870077
I used a hole saw. Details are in the link.
Sweet!
All great upgrades, just curious why start with a purchased table for 130 - 160, then buy speed cloth cup holders and handles when you can get ply wood for that and cut to your table size you want, yes i understand you still need foam for rails, marine vinyl l for rail covers neoprene for under speed cloth.
Is it time management? buying the base saves time
All great upgrades, just curious why start with a purchased table for 130 - 160, then buy speed cloth cup holders and handles when you can get ply wood for that and cut to your table size you want, yes i understand you still need foam for rails, marine vinyl l for rail covers neoprene for under speed cloth.
Is it time management? buying the base saves time
I think that for most people these tables are backup tables or temporary tables (needed out of necessity) so putting in the money, time, and effort to build one from scratch isn’t that attractive for someone who hasn't done this type of thing before. My table all in was about $180 (new felt, deep cup holders, new center bracket, and carrying handles) for a total of 5 hours of amateur carpentry. I could have bought the additional tools and scrap supplies but would be afraid after 5 days, I’d look down and see this:
Could I eventually learn and execute a pretty good looking poker table? Yes. It’s just personally, not worth the additional time it’d take someone with my skill level to do right now.
What he said. I'll just add in that due to space, I needed a folding table, which adds complexity. And I just wasn't confident in my skills to pull it off well. Replacing the cloth and cup holders re ridiculously easy projects. Building one from scratch is a much bigger commitment.
Picked up the table for $119 at Walmart and played a game on the original very loose, very pillowy felt. The felt aside, it's a nice table for the cost +tax & free shipping.
I have inexpensive "speed cloth" (all polyester for $29 - perfectly fine for this table) coming Friday, from Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/?tag=amznpcfx-20), and will have to dig out some old cup holders to see if they fit diameter-wise before committing to that upgrade initially. Either way: much less expensive than a full build from scratch.
@Irish (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/114/) , anyone else: Question regarding the cable running between the table legs: There is no tension on it, so I fail to see how it lends any support. Anyone else in this boat or are your cables taught?
@Irish (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/114/) , anyone else: Question regarding the cable running between the table legs: There is no tension on it, so I fail to see how it lends any support. Anyone else in this boat or are your cables taught?
Lots of people have noted the same. There's a way to fix it but I completely forget how someone said to do it.
All great upgrades, just curious why start with a purchased table for 130 - 160, then buy speed cloth cup holders and handles when you can get ply wood for that and cut to your table size you want, yes i understand you still need foam for rails, marine vinyl l for rail covers neoprene for under speed cloth.
Is it time management? buying the base saves time
You really can't beat the price - raw materials alone would cost far more than a Barrington with the standard upgrades. And yes building your own table takes some time - although most people who take on the challenge can get it done in a couple of weekends.
Plus the fact that it folds and stores conveniently, and free shipping to your door make it pretty much the best value for the money.
@Irish (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/114/) , anyone else: Question regarding the cable running between the table legs: There is no tension on it, so I fail to see how it lends any support. Anyone else in this boat or are your cables taught?
Not sure, never seen one of these up close. But based on the pics ITT, the cable looks like it provides a secondary catch/support for the middle piano hinge. If it functions fine with the cable slack I'd think you could just leave it as is, but if its sagging at the hinge it'll probably need to be reset.
Question regarding the cable running between the table legs: There is no tension on it, so I fail to see how it lends any support. Anyone else in this boat or are your cables taught?
Are you checking when the table is standing? It's kind of annoying when unfolding the table, but mine pulls taut when the table is standing up. Definitely seems to add a layer of security.
Not sure, never seen one of these up close. But based on the pics ITT, the cable looks like it provides a secondary catch/support for the middle piano hinge. If it functions fine with the cable slack I'd think you could just leave it as is, but if its sagging at the hinge it'll probably need to be reset.
Are you checking when the table is standing? It's kind of annoying when unfolding the table, but mine pulls taut when the table is standing up. Definitely seems to add a layer of security.
Yep, when standing it's a bit slack. The table held level during our first game, but everything wears over time. Maybe it will pull taught if the middle sags, but seems it should have tension before it comes to that point.
If it becomes an issue I'll give some thought to mending plates & bolts with wingnuts/turnbuckles/C-clamps/making it a permanent table, etc.. Thanks for the responses & insight
All great upgrades, just curious why start with a purchased table for 130 - 160, then buy speed cloth cup holders and handles when you can get ply wood for that and cut to your table size you want, yes i understand you still need foam for rails, marine vinyl l for rail covers neoprene for under speed cloth.
Is it time management? buying the base saves time
I received mine as a gift. My wife is aware that I like all things poker but it’s no fun buying your husband plywood and foam padding. ;)
All great upgrades, just curious why start with a purchased table for 130 - 160, then buy speed cloth cup holders and handles when you can get ply wood for that and cut to your table size you want, yes i understand you still need foam for rails, marine vinyl l for rail covers neoprene for under speed cloth.
Is it time management? buying the base saves time
Our game went for 6-8 people to 10-12, so I needed a second table. I plan to add the speed cloth, but this was a cheap option for a second table that is Immediately usable, then when I have some time I can work on the upgrades
Very nice, which speed felt did you use? Planning to so deeper cup holders or having okay luck with the current size?
Deeper cup holders are must! Take measurements to ensure the upgraded cup holders will allow clearance when folding the table for storage. Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/?tag=amznpcfx-20) has plenty to choose from. Here a link for the ones I went with!
DA VINCI Lot of 10 Drop in Stainless Steel Poker Table Cup Holders, Fits Standard Soda Can or Beer Bottle https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06W2JBLJJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_rEGeEbRV1V2AG (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06W2JBLJJ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_rEGeEbRV1V2AG?tag=amznpcfx-20)
It’s not pretty but it’s functional!
What brand was the charging station and where did you purchase it?
What brand was the charging station and where did you purchase it?
He posted this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07M6C2931/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_O5f5DbPN22936 (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07M6C2931/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_O5f5DbPN22936?tag=amznpcfx-20)
Thanks to this thread, I bit the bullet and replaced the surface on my ESPN table. I had some dimmable lights lying around, so I replaced the super bright and unusable ones while I was at it. There are definitely some tricks to this versus the standard brown table, but it wasn’t difficult at all. Adding deeper cup holders and a turnbuckle for the leg cable later this week, but it’s ten times more playable already!
Looks awesome! Take any pics of the lighting replacement process?
View attachment 388950 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/388950/)
Thanks to this thread, I bit the bullet and replaced the surface on my ESPN table. I had some dimmable lights lying around, so I replaced the super bright and unusable ones while I was at it. There are definitely some tricks to this versus the standard brown table, but it wasn’t difficult at all. Adding deeper cup holders and a turnbuckle for the leg cable later this week, but it’s ten times more playable already!
Looks great. what kind of tricks would you say to pay attention to for the ESPN table? I am planning to try this soon myself.
He posted this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07M6C2931/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_O5f5DbPN22936 (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07M6C2931/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_O5f5DbPN22936?tag=amznpcfx-20)
I know that. I clicked on the link. The item shown only displays the USB cords. A charging station is not pictured.
Looks awesome! Take any pics of the lighting replacement process?
I didn’t take any pictures, but it was pretty straightforward. The lighting I used to replace the original was the same style and size. I had to peel the original off anyway. The new is just stuck to the spacer board with the 3M tape that came on it. The light strips feed through a hole in the table near the edge of the spacer board, and they plug into wires from a remote module that replaces the block from the original lights. With the lights I used, I don’t think you can get by without having a splitter off the box to run two separate light ribbons.
Looks great. what kind of tricks would you say to pay attention to for the ESPN table? I am planning to try this soon myself.
Use a flat pry bar between the table and the spacer board and be careful. The spacer board is brad nailed to the table. Peel the lights off and be prepared with double sided tape if you want to add them back. (Before I remembered I had this other set, a friend had recommended putting the lights under the table for a cool “underglow” effect. I think this is preferable to trying to use such bright lights without a diffuser.) If you are scrapping the lights, you will want to paint the inside rim of the spacer. I also considered replacing the spacer boards and making the table deeper. This would leave a gap on the outside that would need to be considered. (Another potential place for the lights.) the cupholders are glued to the spacer board, which is thin MDF, so the flat pry bar is essential again, as you pull them away carefully.
I didn’t take off any legs or hinges. My fabric is attached in the gap in the middle of the table and I see no reason to do otherwise.
Once fabric is attached, nail the spacer back down and screw the rail on, same as the brown table.
I know that. I clicked on the link. The item shown only displays the USB cords. A charging station is not pictured.
DOH!! Sorry about that.
All great upgrades, just curious why start with a purchased table for 130 - 160, then buy speed cloth cup holders and handles when you can get ply wood for that and cut to your table size you want, yes i understand you still need foam for rails, marine vinyl l for rail covers neoprene for under speed cloth.
Is it time management? buying the base saves time
Time and tools are a big factor. Also, the cost can add up quick, even if you're buying basic materials.
I'm working on my first custom build now and it's coming in right around $475 in total materials cost. Granted, that is with an upgraded table layout and legs, but even with basic legs and speed cloth, the total is more than you might think.
Here's my recent build spreadsheet modified with suited speed cloth and basic folding table legs to keep the cost down...
And that still requires one to have a jigsaw, power drill, and driver. You'll also need a host of other things, like a staple gun, utility knife, forstner bits, sawhorses, wood screws, extra jigsaw blades, etc. An air compressor and pneumatic stapler are nice bonuses as well. And let's not forget the weekend or so (and workshop space) that you'll need to build the thing. For some one new to woodworking and/or power tools, the costs, space, and time commitment can be substantial.
For a first time table build you could easily exceed $400, even if you already have most of the tools. The Barrington table, even with upgrades, is still well under $200, which is an incredibly attractive option as a pre-built alternative.
Bah. Created a video showing the difference (https://imgur.com/mmNL3qM), but can't seem to embed it. Either as a video, or as a GIF. Hrrrrm....
FYI - If you upload it to YouTube and paste the link, the forum will embed the video.
FYI - If you upload it to YouTube and paste the link, the forum will embed the video.
Sonuva.... Now you tell me!
Time and tools are a big factor. Also, the cost can add up quick, even if you're buying basic materials.
I'm working on my first custom build now and it's coming in right around $475 in total materials cost. Granted, that is with an upgraded table layout and legs, but even with basic legs and speed cloth, the total is more than you might think.
Here's my recent build spreadsheet modified with suited speed cloth and basic folding table legs to keep the cost down...
View attachment 389722 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/389722/)
And that still requires one to have a jigsaw, power drill, and driver. You'll also need a host of other things, like a staple gun, utility knife, forstner bits, sawhorses, wood screws, extra jigsaw blades, etc. An air compressor and pneumatic stapler are nice bonuses as well. And let's not forget the weekend or so (and workshop space) that you'll need to build the thing. For some one new to woodworking and/or power tools, the costs, space, and time commitment can be substantial.
For a first time table build you could easily exceed $400, even if you already have most of the tools. The Barrington table, even with upgrades, is still well under $200, which is an incredibly attractive option as a pre-built alternative.
This is ridiculously helpful. Should be saved into the Resource section. Well played, sir.
Just wanted to share the handles I wound up attaching to the table (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000R2J3KY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1&tag=amznpcfx-20). Makes it way easier to move around and still lay flat when set up. It's actually a replacement amplifier handle, but works great with no modification. Drill two holes and you're golden.
I have a price watch on these to pick one up if they get deeply discounted again. I want to replace my octagon with it because I hate having to cap weeknight games at 8, but I am wondering how well this can actually accomodate 10 full grown men?
I have a price watch on these to pick one up if they get deeply discounted again. I want to replace my octagon with it because I hate having to cap weeknight games at 8, but I am wondering how well this can actually accomodate 10 full grown men?
I had 10 around it once. It was snug, but not undoable. However, no one was particularly large either.
Comfortably, but I recommend using chairs without armrests if you’re gonna have that many players side by side. At my table I have noticed when the table was full the armrests were more of nuisance than a convenience.
Just wanted to say thank you to everyone for posting. This table seems like a pretty interesting option.
Has anyone tried just cutting a roll out neoprene poker mat (like the PCF one) and just putting that on top? I would be curious how well that would work because I have a mat already.
It would cover the crack in the middle, but I worry about it not fitting perfectly and/or bunching up.
The PCF mat doesn’t fit - I tried, it’s a few inches too short.
And don't worry about the crack. It's not even noticeable when playing. Cards just fly right over it once you've upgraded to speed cloth.
is there still a good place to buy this thing? walmart is back to normal price
is there still a good place to buy this thing? walmart is back to normal price
It seems to fluctuate every few months. Just keep checking on it, it'll go back down.
Or keep an eye on Craigslist. They do pop up used for the same sales price. But if you're ripping off the cloth, who cares that it's used?
All done. Hardest part for me was getting the hinges back on and working right. Some clamps helped tremendously.
View attachment 207307 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/207307/)View attachment 207308 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/207308/)View attachment 207309 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/207309/)
What color cloth is this?
Inquiring from expert builders trying to save money might have cost me money. Using the headliner foam doubled up. Will these creases indentations affect the gaming cloth? Just don’t want them to show.
Inquiring from expert builders trying to save money might have cost me money. Using the headliner foam doubled up. Will these creases indentations affect the gaming cloth? Just don’t want them to show.
View attachment 400945 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/400945/)
I just resurfaced mine last night. Don't worry about those imperfections on the foam. Once you start stretching/stapling the speed cloth, you won't see any of that.
I just resurfaced mine last night. Don't worry about those imperfections on the foam. Once you start stretching/stapling the speed cloth, you won't see any of that.
Excited to see the end result!
Excited to see the end result!
End results! Thanks for the help! Ended up going with the SSC from TPS. Very glad I did. It came out great
End results! Thanks for the help! Ended up going with the SSC from TPS. Very glad I did. It came out great View attachment 401026 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/401026/)View attachment 401027 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/401027/)View attachment 401028 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/401028/)View attachment 401029 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/401029/)
That looks awesome! Is that midnight blue?? I just ordered mine from TPS yesterday. Also how long did it take to receive the cloth after ordering?
That looks awesome! Is that midnight blue?? I just ordered mine from TPS yesterday. Also how long did it take to receive the cloth after ordering?
Thanks! Yes, it's dark blue. Mine arrived 3-4 days after I ordered it. It did take 2 days before the shipping tracking updated and caught up.
I just resurfaced mine last night. Don't worry about those imperfections on the foam. Once you start stretching/stapling the speed cloth, you won't see any of that.
If I was using SSC I wouldn’t worry but I’m using a overrun from the layout company.
If I was using SSC I wouldn’t worry but I’m using a overrun from the layout company.
Oh I see. Interested to see how this turns out.
Thanks! Yes, it's dark blue. Mine arrived 3-4 days after I ordered it. It did take 2 days before the shipping tracking updated and caught up.
Ok cool! Can’t wait to get started with the upgrade. Deeper cup holders coming tomorrow.
Ok cool! Can’t wait to get started with the upgrade. Deeper cup holders coming tomorrow.
I would like to do this as well and was reading up on it. Not sure I have the right tools. And would I need to remove the rail again or just pop out the cup holders and drill down?
I would like to do this as well and was reading up on it. Not sure I have the right tools. And would I need to remove the rail again or just pop out the cup holders and drill down?
If the teeth on your hole saw are sharp enough, you can just remove the cup holders and drill through the SSC and the surface. I did it just fine and that ensures that everything lines up
If the teeth on your hole saw are sharp enough, you can just remove the cup holders and drill through the SSC and the surface. I did it just fine and that ensures that everything lines up
Got it. And how far down did you drill and which cup holders did you use? Thanks
Drilled a hole completely through using a 2.75" hole saw and the cup holders that @Moxie Mike (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/4492/) posted but they seem to be out of stock on Walmart.com
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Trademark-Poker-Lot-Of-10-Stainless-Steel-Cup-Holders/21070419
@Lent53 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/7082/) you will need to cut down the table leg on each for 4 of them to slide past when inserted. I used a dremel with a cutting wheel but you can use a sawzall or preferred method.
Drilled a hole completely through using a 2.75" hole saw and the cup holders that @Moxie Mike (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/4492/) posted but they seem to be out of stock on Walmart.com
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Trademark-Poker-Lot-Of-10-Stainless-Steel-Cup-Holders/21070419
Oh so just go all the way through. I see. Did you get the Walmart cup holders then? Wonder if I can get them anywhere else
Found their storefront on Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/?tag=amznpcfx-20) but can't find a "set" of cup holders. And $6 plus shipping per is a little ridiculous.
https://www.amazon.com/Trademark-Poker-Stainless-Holder-inches/dp/B000HK6BHE?ref_=ast_bbp_dp (https://www.amazon.com/Trademark-Poker-Stainless-Holder-inches/dp/B000HK6BHE?ref_=ast_bbp_dp&tag=amznpcfx-20)
Oh so just go all the way through. I see. Did you get the Walmart cup holders then? Wonder if I can get them anywhere else
I ordered these cup holders from amazon (https://www.amazon.com/?tag=amznpcfx-20). https://www.amazon.com/Vinci-Stainless-Holders-Standard-Bottle/dp/B06W2JBLJJ (https://www.amazon.com/Vinci-Stainless-Holders-Standard-Bottle/dp/B06W2JBLJJ?tag=amznpcfx-20)
They were posted by others that ordered and they worked no problem. I have not received yet so I can’t say that with first hand experience. But I will let you know as soon as I do replace them.
Oh so just go all the way through. I see. Did you get the Walmart cup holders then? Wonder if I can get them anywhere else
You can get them all over the place... But Walmart had the best price at the time.
eBay (https://www.ebay.com/?mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&siteid=0&campid=5338995683&customid=&toolid=10001&mkevt=1) would probably be a good resource too.
What type of glue did you guys use to glue the cup holders down?
What type of glue did you guys use to glue the cup holders down?
Between the 2.75" hole and the leather, it was tight enough fit that I didn't use any, plus it makes it easier to dump them out if they get anything spilled in them
What type of glue did you guys use to glue the cup holders down?
I didn't use any either to make for easy cleaning. I built a "cradle" for them with two blocks of wood with a flat piece of wood between them (on the underside of the table) to 1) prevent them from being pushed through and 2) I put velcro on the bottom of the cup holder and the "cradle" to prevent them from being pulled up.
Ok, thanks. I will skip the glue and see how well I get them to fit inside the hole. Is something underneath the cup holder necessary? Will the cup holder push through towards the floor without a support underneath?
And don't worry about the crack. It's not even noticeable when playing. Cards just fly right over it once you've upgraded to speed cloth.
I worried about that too. And you’re 100% right once the game starts you forget it’s even there.
Ok, thanks. I will skip the glue and see how well I get them to fit inside the hole. Is something underneath the cup holder necessary? Will the cup holder push through towards the floor without a support underneath?
The holes they drill into the plywood of the armrest are significantly larger than the holes they cut in the foam. This means there's not much support underneath the foam so I felt it was necessary to add something additional. See the photos below for what I did. Doing so did require I cut the end part of the legs that come into the contact with the table itself (see white caps) in order to fit the 4 cup holder "cradles" that overlap the leg support bars.
]
Ok, thanks. I will skip the glue and see how well I get them to fit inside the hole. Is something underneath the cup holder necessary? Will the cup holder push through towards the floor without a support underneath?
The ones that Moxie Mike and I are using the lip is solid enough that it can't be pulled through unless the hole is way too big
The ones that Moxie Mike and I are using the lip is solid enough that it can't be pulled through unless the hole is way too big
Do you know if any of the holes are as big as the one I pictured? Looking at the ones Moxie bought and the ones I bought, I'd be surprised if there's any significant difference in design/size/materials (I actually bought 3 types and used the ones with the largest lip) so maybe I went overboard but when building I always over do it and live by "better safe than sorry" :D
Moxie's - https://www.walmart.com/ip/Trademark-Poker-Lot-Of-10-Stainless-Steel-Cup-Holders/21070419
One's I used - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075R88TGN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075R88TGN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_image?ie=UTF8&psc=1&tag=amznpcfx-20)
Conclusion: you can add support in after the fact easy enough so just do the replacement and if you feel the need to add more support, do it:tup:
^^ Easy to add a support or glue rather than add material to a hole you just cut too big
^^ Easy to add a support or glue rather than add material to a hole you just cut too big
Just to clarify, the large holes in the armrest are pre-cut by the manufacturer and the cradles as opposed to glue, were done so you have the option remove the cup holders if you want.
So I am starting my Barrington table upgrade today. :) So far I have removed the old cup holders and drilled holes for new cup holders. They used a ton of glue on those old cup holders! :banghead: Just purchased clips to hold the new speed cloth in place. I ended up going with midnight blue from TPS. I will post an updated picture after completion.
Ok so it’s finally done after a few hours. Not perfect by any means but overall not too bad. I’m glad I didn’t spend the extra money on an electric stapler. The handheld heavy duty Stanley stapler worked very well. This is a project that anyone can do so don’t be afraid to upgrade your table! Thanks for all the helpful comments that made this upgrade a breeze. :tup:
Ok so it’s finally done after a few hours. Not perfect by any means but overall not too bad. I’m glad I didn’t spend the extra money on an electric stapler. The handheld heavy duty Stanley stapler worked very well. This is a project that anyone can do so don’t be afraid to upgrade your table! Thanks for all the helpful comments that made this upgrade a breeze. :tup:
View attachment 402606 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/402606/)View attachment 402607 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/402607/)View attachment 402608 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/402608/)
You did the cup holders as well?
You did the cup holders as well?
Yes I put 2 1/4 in deep cup holders in as well. Here is the link for the cup holders I used. They hold a can or bottle without allowing it to tip over. Will not hold anything bigger than a standard beer bottle. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06W2JBLJJ?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_asin_title (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06W2JBLJJ?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_dt_b_asin_title&tag=amznpcfx-20)
Finished my upgrade yesterday, very happy with the upgrade but can't add much to the prior "how-to" comments.
Table was a score at $120. I added about $60 in volara & knock-off SSC and the cup holders were from my first, scrapped, table build.
Consider you may have to add some padding to the table. In original condition the playing surface and padding on the table I purchased was incredibly slack and billowy. Had it not been an upgrade project it would have been a return for refund.
Easier to see the degree in the picture with the original felt removed. In real life it was only slightly mitigated by the felt.
I picked up a 84" cover from Casin4You because this table will remain set up in the shop.
Best advice in this thread deserves iteration: label the parts! Especially beneficial if, like me, you are easily distracted and let this sit a couple weeks between dis-assembly and re-assembly :rolleyes:
Finished my upgrade yesterday, very happy with the upgrade but can't add much to the prior "how-to" comments.
Table was a score at $120. I added about $60 in volara & knock-off SSC and the cup holders were from my first, scrapped, table build.
View attachment 403044 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/403044/)
Consider you may have to add some padding to the table. In original condition the playing surface and padding on the table I purchased was incredibly slack and billowy. Had it not been an upgrade project it would have been a return for refund.
Easier to see the degree in the picture with the original felt removed. In real life it was only slightly mitigated by the felt.
View attachment 403042 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/403042/)
View attachment 403050 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/403050/)
I picked up a 84" cover from Casin4You because this table will remain set up in the shop.
View attachment 403046 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/403046/)
Best advice in this thread deserves iteration: label the parts! Especially beneficial if, like me, you are easily distracted and let this sit a couple weeks between dis-assembly and re-assembly :rolleyes:
Looks great! I like the black cup holders
Best advice in this thread deserves iteration: label the parts! Especially beneficial if, like me, you are easily distracted and let this sit a couple weeks between dis-assembly and re-assembly :rolleyes:
Mine has been apart for months. I think it was also smart to use ABC on one side and 123 on the other half. But time will tell if that was correct.
Mine has been apart for months. I think it was also smart to use ABC on one side and 123 on the other half. But time will tell if that was correct.
Def a good idea. I marked mine left and right with each rail marked L1,L2,L3,R1,R2,R3. Rails went back on no problem. Just make sure to tighten them down enough so cards don’t slide underneath them. I had to adjust a few spots that were allowing cards to slide underneath.
Def a good idea. I marked mine left and right with each rail marked L1,L2,L3,R1,R2,R3. Rails went back on no problem. Just make sure to tighten them down enough so cards don’t slide underneath them. I had to adjust a few spots that were allowing cards to slide underneath.
I didn’t want to question which side of the I was standing on to determine L & R. :)
I also labeled the legs in a similar fashion.
I didn’t want to question which side of the I was standing on to determine L & R. :)
I also labeled the legs in a similar fashion.
Haha yea I see what you mean. Name of label didn’t matter as long as they matched up in the end lol
Finished my upgrade yesterday, very happy with the upgrade but can't add much to the prior "how-to" comments.
Table was a score at $120. I added about $60 in volara & knock-off SSC and the cup holders were from my first, scrapped, table build.
View attachment 403044 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/403044/)
Consider you may have to add some padding to the table. In original condition the playing surface and padding on the table I purchased was incredibly slack and billowy. Had it not been an upgrade project it would have been a return for refund.
Easier to see the degree in the picture with the original felt removed. In real life it was only slightly mitigated by the felt.
View attachment 403042 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/403042/)
View attachment 403050 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/403050/)
I picked up a 84" cover from Casin4You because this table will remain set up in the shop.
View attachment 403046 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/403046/)
Best advice in this thread deserves iteration: label the parts! Especially beneficial if, like me, you are easily distracted and let this sit a couple weeks between dis-assembly and re-assembly :rolleyes:
Very nice. I'm eyeing one of these Barrington tables and I didnt think I'd need to do any upgrades, but all of these look so nice. Need to gain some confidence in my DIY skills.
Very nice. I'm eyeing one of these Barrington tables and I didnt think I'd need to do any upgrades, but all of these look so nice. Need to gain some confidence in my DIY skills.
You can do it! All you really need is a staple gun, scissors and a Phillips head screwdriver and you can upgrade it. A power drill def makes the job way easier but can be done without. Keep us posted if you decide to make the upgrade! :tup:
Very nice. I'm eyeing one of these Barrington tables and I didnt think I'd need to do any upgrades, but all of these look so nice. Need to gain some confidence in my DIY skills.
@Buge (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/6951/) is right. Incredibly easy. It's a great starter project and upgrading the cloth makes a WORLD of difference. Night and day.
Well I’m way more likely to give it a go now. Thanks, y’all.
Anyone still have their shallow cup holders maybe taking up space?
Anyone still have their shallow cup holders maybe taking up space?
I haven't replaced mine yet, but been planning to do so. Why you need some?
The USB charging station that I bought is on sale right now!!
https://slickdeals.net/f/13854821-r...idgetV2:Recombee|Feature:isPersonalized:false (https://slickdeals.net/f/13854821-ravpower-60w-12a-6-port-desktop-usb-charging-station-with-ismart-multiple-port-14-99?src=frontpage&attrsrc=Test%3AfpPersonalizedWidgetV2%3ARecombee%7CFeature%3AisPersonalized%3Afalse)
Forgot to add these here!
Wow! Very nice!! Came out fantastic!
@WhiteMamba1646 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/4164/) That table turned out real nice. That chip set is one of my favorite custom builds. Simple with amazing color.
That table came out great! Where’s the cloth from?
That table came out great! Where’s the cloth from?
thank you! @T_Chan (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/71/) custom cloth! Worth every penny
thank you! @T_Chan (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/71/) custom cloth! Worth every penny
Very cool. Kinda wishing I didn’t upgrade to the speed cloth now! o_O
That custom cloth is a thing of beauty!
replacing the cloth with SSC on one of these is my project for later today. appreciate the info and pics in this thread!
and done! pretty straightforward project, as others have mentioned the hardest part was lining up the pattern in the middle.
@raynmanas (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/1218/) Wow, very nicely done!
and done! pretty straightforward project, as others have mentioned the hardest part was lining up the pattern in the middle.
View attachment 408826 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/408826/)View attachment 408827 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/408827/)View attachment 408828 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/408828/)View attachment 408829 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/408829/)View attachment 408830 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/408830/)View attachment 408831 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/408831/)View attachment 408832 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/408832/)View attachment 408833 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/408833/)
Nice job! Put some new cup holders in there if you can. It makes a huge difference
and done! pretty straightforward project, as others have mentioned the hardest part was lining up the pattern in the middle.
View attachment 408826 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/408826/)View attachment 408827 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/408827/)View attachment 408828 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/408828/)View attachment 408829 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/408829/)View attachment 408830 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/408830/)View attachment 408831 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/408831/)View attachment 408832 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/408832/)View attachment 408833 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/408833/)
Table looks amazing, but let's see more pics of the banjo!
Table looks amazing, but let's see more pics of the banjo!
ha, it's a cheapo hand-me-down from my father-in-law, i am just learning it. normally there is a guitar in that spot.
Nice job! Put some new cup holders in there if you can. It makes a huge difference
i probably will at some point, i actually already own a 2.75" hole saw. i haven't looked yet, but i would like to find black instead of silver cupholders if i am going to upgrade.
Finally was able to get away with picking up a Barrington. This is an odd one in that it has a printed hard top and then the felt lies on top. Which is fine for now as my kids are young and there will be spills. Then I'll re-felt it when I can. The opposite side of the poker felt is blackjack. It's also only a 6 foot which is the biggest that will fit the room.
Without topper felt:
With topper felt:
Another successful upgrade! Had this thread bookmarked for ages. Followed @jcooper911 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/4913/) steps with no issues. Deeper cup holders on order and will be installed later this week, along with some handles to help with carrying.
I need to get off my duff and start on this! Should be a good project while we're still locked up
I need to get off my duff and start on this! Should be a good project while we're still locked up
It’s really pretty straight forward. Only a few hours if you are doing it solo, and less if you have some help.
(By the way, didn’t you start this thread nearly 2 years ago???) o_O
It’s really pretty straight forward. Only a few hours if you are doing it solo, and less if you have some help.
(By the way, didn’t you start this thread nearly 2 years ago???) o_O
Yes, and I seem to be the ONLY one that hasn't even started :D :banghead:
Yes, and I seem to be the ONLY one that hasn't even started :D :banghead:
Getting started is the hardest part...
You got this!:cool:tup:
Yes, and I seem to be the ONLY one that hasn't even started :D :banghead:
I’ve started but think my table has been apart longer than it was ever together even counting slow boat from China. Maybe soon finally got the Volara foam after experimenting with other types.
just ordered these guys: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06W2JBLJJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06W2JBLJJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1&tag=amznpcfx-20)
and the drill attachment. looking forward to the deeper cup holders. last time we played we had 2 drink spills :banghead:
some random questions for people:
instead of folding up the table, i just leave mine out. would this put extra stress on the wire?
i noticed where the table folds the fabric is a little loose. nothing crazy, but bothers me. has this happened with anyone else? worth it to try and tighten it?
John,
I've left mine out in my basement for several months now and I'm not seeing any issues yet.
If you have the stock fabric on, I'd replace with a different surface. If you've already replaced it with SSC or other, I was able to remove the hinges, pull tight, restaple, and reinstall the hinges.
John,
I've left mine out in my basement for several months now and I'm not seeing any issues yet.
If you have the stock fabric on, I'd replace with a different surface. If you've already replaced it with SSC or other, I was able to remove the hinges, pull tight, restaple, and reinstall the hinges.
yep, i put SSC on it. was hoping i could avoid taking the hinges off again. was a bit of a pain lol or maybe it was all of the rails
just ordered these guys: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06W2JBLJJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06W2JBLJJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1&tag=amznpcfx-20)
and the drill attachment. looking forward to the deeper cup holders. last time we played we had 2 drink spills :banghead:
some random questions for people:
instead of folding up the table, i just leave mine out. would this put extra stress on the wire?
i noticed where the table folds the fabric is a little loose. nothing crazy, but bothers me. has this happened with anyone else? worth it to try and tighten it?
Just received my new cup holders and will be putting them in this week.
Question for others who replaced cup holders - did anyone attempt jumbo size? I see a few styles where they would just be too deep and not allow the table to fold up without having to remove them. For the record, I order standard size, but these jumbos seem like they would not be too deep for the Barrington - https://amzn.to/308Zq9I (https://amzn.to/308Zq9I?tag=amznpcfx-20)
(https://amzn.to/308Zq9I?tag=amznpcfx-20)
Thoughts???
just ordered these guys: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06W2JBLJJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06W2JBLJJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1&tag=amznpcfx-20)
and the drill attachment. looking forward to the deeper cup holders. last time we played we had 2 drink spills :banghead:
some random questions for people:
instead of folding up the table, i just leave mine out. would this put extra stress on the wire?
i noticed where the table folds the fabric is a little loose. nothing crazy, but bothers me. has this happened with anyone else? worth it to try and tighten it?
reminds me i need to order these too. this has probably been asked/answered, but can they accommodate a regular pint glass?
regarding folding, my table (with cover) has become my work from home desk for the time being, so it has been unfolded/set up since i bought it, and used daily since mid-march. i don't think there is any concern with stress on the wire.
reminds me i need to order these too. this has probably been asked/answered, but can they accommodate a regular pint glass?
Standard cans and bottles - no problem. For a standard pint glass, I'd say "sort of." The glass fits in partially, but does not reach the bottom of the cup holder, allowing for a little instability (aka, it can wobble).
Standard cans and bottles - no problem. For a standard pint glass, I'd say "sort of." The glass fits in partially, but does not reach the bottom of the cup holder, allowing for a little instability (aka, it can wobble).
View attachment 470044 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/470044/)
nice comparison. for the pint glass, is it "spill-able"... which is what I want to avoid.
Standard cans and bottles - no problem. For a standard pint glass, I'd say "sort of." The glass fits in partially, but does not reach the bottom of the cup holder, allowing for a little instability (aka, it can wobble).
View attachment 470044 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/470044/)
thanks for doing this - the pint glass still looks like it would be safer than in the stock cupholders.
nice comparison. for the pint glass, is it "spill-able"... which is what I want to avoid.
The pint glass isn't coming out of the cup holder with a tap or bump. But, if it's full, liquid could spill over the lip of the glass. I don't think you have to worry about a fully knocked over glass though (unless your crew is a bit more rowdy).
The pint glass isn't coming out of the cup holder with a tap or bump. But, if it's full, liquid could spill over the lip of the glass. I don't think you have to worry about a fully knocked over glass though (unless your crew is a bit more rowdy).
good to know. we had a 2 spills last time, both were bottles. wonder how a solo cup would be? not sure if its the same size as the pint glass.
good to know. we had a 2 spills last time, both were bottles. wonder how a solo cup would be? not sure if its the same size as the pint glass.
Standard 16 oz plastic cup (side note: not Solo brand). Fits snug. Appears stable.
Standard 16 oz plastic cup (side note: not Solo brand). Fits snug. Appears stable.
View attachment 470135 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/470135/)
nice, thanks!
Those Solo cups work great for a lot of snacks, too.
They take up less space than plates, napkins, or bowls, contain the crumbs, and allow for fingerless no-contact eating -- which means less debris and oils (and saliva) transferring to the cards, chips, and felt.
Those Solo cups work great for a lot of snacks, too.
They take up less space than plates, napkins, or bowls, contain the crumbs, and allow for fingerless no-contact eating -- which means less debris and oils (and saliva) transferring to the cards, chips, and felt.
Fill one of these bad boys with pub mix from Costco and the other with your favorite beverage and it's PARTY TIME
Question: the Pit Boss folding Table vs the Barrington Table
Are they the same thing, I have had the pit boss version and would like to upgrade it if possible
If not able to I did find the Barrington on OfferUp app cheap and could buy it and upgrade it
Next question: has anyone fixed or replaced the vinyl on their rail, I section of mine ha a bad tear
Those Solo cups work great for a lot of snacks, too.
They take up less space than plates, napkins, or bowls, contain the crumbs, and allow for fingerless no-contact eating -- which means less debris and oils (and saliva) transferring to the cards, chips, and felt.
never even thought of this, wow. especially in the covid world, this is pretty huge.
Another successful upgrade! Had this thread bookmarked for ages. Followed @jcooper911 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/4913/) steps with no issues. Deeper cup holders on order and will be installed later this week, along with some handles to help with carrying.
Congrats - that looks great, is it the standard black YAT speedcloth? Very nice. Glad i could help with the instructions :-)
Congrats - that looks great, is it the standard black YAT speedcloth? Very nice. Glad i could help with the instructions :)
Thank you for the detailed tutorial. Super helpful!
Went with ‘charcoal’ from Texas Poker Supply. I’m digging the overall darker look.
On to the cup holders...
How do I deal with this?
Also, any recommendations for repairing this? Casualty of war
Leather repair kit? I didn't have anything like that happen to mine. Must have been extremely dry or something?
As for the support bar, I took a dremel with a small cutting wheel and cut it flush with the opening.
Leather repair kit? I didn't have anything like that happen to mine. Must have been extremely dry or something?
As for the support bar, I took a dremel with a small cutting wheel and cut it flush with the opening.
Thanks!
Leather repair kit? I didn't have anything like that happen to mine. Must have been extremely dry or something?
As for the support bar, I took a dremel with a small cutting wheel and cut it flush with the opening.
Not pretty, but worked!
Could use a light sanding :)
If you couldn't tell, this was my first time. I bought some rubber end caps to hide the shame.
Mine looked pretty similar. Just make sure to sand the sharp edges a little. I also put some electrical tape over it so nobody cut their knees on it. The larger cup holders really make a big difference and will surely lead to less spilling of beers. Great job :tup:
If you couldn't tell, this was my first time. I bought some rubber end caps to hide the shame.
I threw on some end caps as well - easy fix!
for those of you that did the cupholder upgrade, was your speed cloth all the way to the edges? i.e. did you hole saw right through the speed cloth as well? this had not occurred to me until now...
I put the torque on my handheld drill on 2 and just went through the speed cloth. I'd recommend starting the drill before hitting the cloth for best results.
i did the same (hole sawed right through the cloth)...agree with @TonZaga (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/5861/)
Before I forget, be careful not to catch any of the "leather" when you put the hole in. Made this mistake and tore some of it
for those of you that did the cupholder upgrade, was your speed cloth all the way to the edges? i.e. did you hole saw right through the speed cloth as well? this had not occurred to me until now...
View attachment 474346 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/474346/)
You can go right through the SSC. Make sure the hole saw is past the padded rail, but above the SSC. Your drill bit should be centered up nicely and in contact with the SSC/table. Start your drill before contacting the SSC. Apply continuous pressure through the table. Couple of seconds per cup holder. Watch the 4 corners as the table legs support is just under those. You'll need to trim about 1-1.5 inches off those to make room for the cup holders in those spots. Check @Regularjohn (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/6445/) 's posts just above.
I’ve been waiting for the price of this table to drop for a few weeks, but it went up from $250 to $260!
Does anyone think the price will dip back down to the $99-$160 that have been mentioned in older posts? Has it event been this high? Is my waiting futile, and is the table still worth it at current prices?
definitely looking to get one of these and do all the upgrades, but I Don’t want to feel like a fool buying it at $260 when it’s been at $99 in the past.
I would say the sales are usually around black friday and Christmas but could get lucky and may have a sale close to July 4th to try to push products post-COVID19
And they will raise (or lower) the price based on the number of views. The more you browse, the less likely it is to become cheaper.
You can also keep your eye on Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/?tag=amznpcfx-20) Warehouse. Sometimes items become available there for cheaper - may have a blemish or not have original packaging, etc. But, you could score a decent deal if one becomes available there.
Is my waiting futile, and is the table still worth it at current prices?
I lurked for a while, managed to finally grab it a couple months back for $210 at Wal-Mart. I got it for the fact that it stores pretty great, and it really does. The playing surface kinda stinks, but if you're willing to refelt it it shouldn't be an issue
I’ve been waiting for the price of this table to drop for a few weeks, but it went up from $250 to $260!
Does anyone think the price will dip back down to the $99-$160 that have been mentioned in older posts? Has it event been this high? Is my waiting futile, and is the table still worth it at current prices?
definitely looking to get one of these and do all the upgrades, but I Don’t want to feel like a fool buying it at $260 when it’s been at $99 in the past.
At that price it is most decidedly not worth it. At $99 it saves you some cash over building a table yourself. At $250, plus the cost of upgrades, you can build yourself at that price and have a better table.
At that price it is most decidedly not worth it. At $99 it saves you some cash over building a table yourself. At $250, plus the cost of upgrades, you can build yourself at that price and have a better table.
I'd agree 250 is pushing it. I got mine for 170 which I think is the sweet spot. With a lot of casinos not opening poker rooms yet (or have plans to)a, wouldn't be surprised people are starting to host games more and need a table delivered quickly. Hence the price increase.
I think part of the draw with the barrington upgrade is that it's pretty easy and relatively quick to do. so I still think 250 is worth it. But that's at the top end. When I was doing research on a table, building from scratch seemed prohibitive due to difficulty, time, and tools needed. This seemed to fit perfectly. Good price and some customization that wasn't difficult.
if you're willing to refelt it it shouldn't be an issue
I hit the point where not only am I willing to refelt it but I'm unwilling to play even one more hand on that POS gaming surface. Mine came loose at some edges and it's pilled like a SOB after limited sessions so it was high time for some cheap SSC. Figured if I'm already taking the thing apart, might as well upgrade the padding too. Will update later--gonna be doing it in a NYC shoebox, wish me luck!
Will update later--gonna be doing it in a NYC shoebox, wish me luck!
i found the foam and rails actually perfectly fine - and i did mine in my NYC apt with only a manual screwdriver! check my old post if you need pointers :-) good luck!
Finished a little while ago, finally made it back home (tables actually in the office lol). Came out spectacular. Broke the table down and did most of the first side by myself, then a few hours into it my buddy who's a IATSE stagehand came over and helped me knock out the rest and put it back together in just over an hour.
Two observations I had that I feel like sharing, to help someone avoid similar issues:
The cup holders have waaayyyy too much glue. I mean obscene amounts of glue--only way I was able to pry them off was taking a wallpaper scraper, a hammer, and getting in between the cup holder and the wood. My friend had mentioned a heatgun, but I was worried about melting the pleather on the rail.
When you put the rails back on, unless you're planning on painstakingly lining up the screws with the original holes in the rail pieces, put the side rails on before the middle curved piece. My buddy and I had to readjust the first side because if you go around the horn, good chance a few mm off on either rail piece will make the 3rd one stick out past the fold.
Couldn't have done it without my buddy's help and @jcooper911 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/4913/) notes. Your post (from page 2) laying it all out made it infinitely easier than trying to do it freestyle. After doing it myself (with the help of a power drill), you have nothing but my respect for getting this done with a manual screwdriver before 2022. Shoutout to the NYC Barrington Mob!
EDIT: cupholders are missing because there was so much f*****g wood glue. Putting em back in would've ripped the pleather. New ones coming Sunday...
Finished a little while ago, finally made it back home (tables actually in the office lol). Came out spectacular. Broke the table down and did most of the first side by myself, then a few hours into it my buddy who's a IATSE stagehand came over and helped me knock out the rest and put it back together in just over an hour.
Two observations I had that I feel like sharing, to help someone avoid similar issues:
The cup holders have waaayyyy too much glue. I mean obscene amounts of glue--only way I was able to pry them off was taking a wallpaper scraper, a hammer, and getting in between the cup holder and the wood. My friend had mentioned a heatgun, but I was worried about melting the pleather on the rail.
When you put the rails back on, unless you're planning on painstakingly lining up the screws with the original holes in the rail pieces, put the side rails on before the middle curved piece. My buddy and I had to readjust the first side because if you go around the horn, good chance a few mm off on either rail piece will make the 3rd one stick out past the fold.
Couldn't have done it without my buddy's help and @jcooper911 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/4913/) notes. Your post (from page 2) laying it all out made it infinitely easier than trying to do it freestyle. After doing it myself (with the help of a power drill), you have nothing but my respect for getting this done with a manual screwdriver before 2022. Shoutout to the NYC Barrington Mob!
EDIT: cupholders are missing because there was so much f*****g wood glue. Putting em back in would've ripped the pleather. New ones coming Sunday...
View attachment 484667 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/484667/)
Nicely done, sir! You’ll be happy with the new cup holders too.
Looks great @RudysNYC (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/7793/) !
totally agree on the too much glue, I think maybe I got lucky with mine as mine ended up ok and now when I play I just put them back in the slots.
Glad the instructions were useful and damn you for having a power drill lol. I love that bright green, pops a little more than my classic forest green. I’m in for the first game
I’m in for the first game
Absolutely. I was going to say earlier, when all this mishugas blows over and the dust settles just a bit more we should get a NYC PCF game going. I decided at the time that it was a touch off topic, but I now decide that it's totally relevant because given the nature of this thread (folding tables) and the real estate in NYC (claustrophobic) I'm pretty positive every NYC chipper will come across this thread at one point or another :ROFL: :ROFLMAO:
EDIT: cupholders are missing because there was so much f*****g wood glue. Putting em back in would've ripped the pleather. New ones coming Sunday...
When I did mine, I used a hair dryer to slowly heat the cupholders. After I got them out, a few more minutes with the hair dryer and all the glue wiped right off (I didn't have a rag so I just used the old felt).
It looks like TPS is out of that nice blue color that many of you guys used for your tables. It is not even listed on th site.
Is this from casinosupply.com of similar high quality? Anyone buy from this site before?
https://www.casinosupply.com/collec...suited-speed-cloth-sold-per-running-foot-blue (https://www.casinosupply.com/collections/poker-cloth/products/pro-two-tone-suited-speed-cloth-sold-per-running-foot-blue)
Furthermore, would it be wise to cut the cupholder holes before installing the SSC? That way I can just use an exacto knife to cut out the holes in the SSC after installation, avoiding having to drill through it?
Thanks all!
It looks like TPS is out of that nice blue color that many of you guys used for your tables. It is not even listed on th site.
Is this from casinosupply.com of similar high quality? Anyone buy from this site before?
https://www.casinosupply.com/collec...suited-speed-cloth-sold-per-running-foot-blue (https://www.casinosupply.com/collections/poker-cloth/products/pro-two-tone-suited-speed-cloth-sold-per-running-foot-blue)
Furthermore, would it be wise to cut the cupholder holes before installing the SSC? That way I can just use an exacto knife to cut out the holes in the SSC after installation, avoiding having to drill through it?
Thanks all!
So I just re-felted my Barrington table this weekend (pics coming soon) and I cut the cupholders before installing my cloth. I did that because I got a custom cloth (thanks @T_Chan (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/71/)) and was worried that the hole saw would somehow snag and rip the cloth.
I'm glad that I did - my particular hole saw had trouble with the felt and the foam, so I was relieved I was doing it on the old felt, not the new cloth. Cutting out the felt with an exacto knife after re-installing the rail was super easy. Also was able to start the hole with the rail on, but then remove the rail to finish cutting (since I didn't re-screw the rails in after removing the old cupholders).
Downside is that your alignment may be off slightly. For 9 out of 10 holes wasn't a problem (since the original cutout is larger than the new hole), but there was one hole where the alignment was just off , so the cupholder didn't go in right away. Was an easy enough fix - ended up just using a piece of sand paper to sand down the edge that wasn't aligned and after a minute or two was able to fit it in.
So I just re-felted my Barrington table this weekend (pics coming soon) and I cut the cupholders before installing my cloth. I did that because I got a custom cloth (thanks @T_Chan (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/71/)) and was worried that the hole saw would somehow snag and rip the cloth.
I'm glad that I did - my particular hole saw had trouble with the felt and the foam, so I was relieved I was doing it on the old felt, not the new cloth. Cutting out the felt with an exacto knife after re-installing the rail was super easy. Also was able to start the hole with the rail on, but then remove the rail to finish cutting (since I didn't re-screw the rails in after removing the old cupholders).
Downside is that your alignment may be off slightly. For 9 out of 10 holes wasn't a problem (since the original cutout is larger than the new hole), but there was one hole where the alignment was just off , so the cupholder didn't go in right away. Was an easy enough fix - ended up just using a piece of sand paper to sand down the edge that wasn't aligned and after a minute or two was able to fit it in.
Let's see that custom cloth!!!
Thanks to all the advice in this thread, I went ahead and re-felted my Barrington table (which I had bought before even knowing this forum existed) last weekend. Got a custom felt and decided to upgrade the cupholders as well. Pics of the process and final table below. Overall took me just over a day, working all by myself.
A couple things to note (on top of the advice already presented):
Labeled everything with painters tape, so nothing could get out of place
Decided to cut the holes for the cupholders before putting on the custom cloth (see post above)
The hairdryer was key in softening up the glue under the cupholders. Found the by putting a screwdriver/chisel under the rail and putting the hair dryer on the metal worked best
Spent a long time trying to get the felt to line up; pretty pleased with how it turned out, but definitely not 'perfect'
Ended up using a pipe-cutting tool to cut the legs. I started off with my Dremel and some cut discs, but burned through 5 of them and only got through 1.5 legs. Got the pipe cutting tool for like $12 (basically the cost of another set of cut discs) and was able to trim the legs in about 5 min. For anyone adding the cupholders, I'd recommend it.
Found it much easier to cut out the felt under the table to re-insert the hardware (no pics of that).
Finally - thanks to everyone that posted previously. Seeing your work and descriptions definitely made this possible.
Finished Product...
Thanks to all the advice in this thread, I went ahead and re-felted my Barrington table (which I had bought before even knowing this forum existed) last weekend. Got a custom felt and decided to upgrade the cupholders as well. Pics of the process and final table below. Overall took me just over a day, working all by myself.
A couple things to note (on top of the advice already presented):
Labeled everything with painters tape, so nothing could get out of place
Decided to cut the holes for the cupholders before putting on the custom cloth (see post above)
The hairdryer was key in softening up the glue under the cupholders. Found the by putting a screwdriver/chisel under the rail and putting the hair dryer on the metal worked best
Spent a long time trying to get the felt to line up; pretty pleased with how it turned out, but definitely not 'perfect'
Ended up using a pipe-cutting tool to cut the legs. I started off with my Dremel and some cut discs, but burned through 5 of them and only got through 1.5 legs. Got the pipe cutting tool for like $12 (basically the cost of another set of cut discs) and was able to trim the legs in about 5 min. For anyone adding the cupholders, I'd recommend it.
Found it much easier to cut out the felt under the table to re-insert the hardware (no pics of that).
Finally - thanks to everyone that posted previously. Seeing your work and descriptions definitely made this possible.
View attachment 490667 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/490667/)
View attachment 490668 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/490668/)
View attachment 490669 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/490669/)
View attachment 490670 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/490670/)
View attachment 490672 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/490672/)
View attachment 490673 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/490673/)
Finished Product...
View attachment 490687 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/490687/)
View attachment 490678 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/490678/)
Strong work! Turned out great!
Thanks to all the advice in this thread, I went ahead and re-felted my Barrington table (which I had bought before even knowing this forum existed) last weekend. Got a custom felt and decided to upgrade the cupholders as well. Pics of the process and final table below. Overall took me just over a day, working all by myself.
A couple things to note (on top of the advice already presented):
Labeled everything with painters tape, so nothing could get out of place
Decided to cut the holes for the cupholders before putting on the custom cloth (see post above)
The hairdryer was key in softening up the glue under the cupholders. Found the by putting a screwdriver/chisel under the rail and putting the hair dryer on the metal worked best
Spent a long time trying to get the felt to line up; pretty pleased with how it turned out, but definitely not 'perfect'
Ended up using a pipe-cutting tool to cut the legs. I started off with my Dremel and some cut discs, but burned through 5 of them and only got through 1.5 legs. Got the pipe cutting tool for like $12 (basically the cost of another set of cut discs) and was able to trim the legs in about 5 min. For anyone adding the cupholders, I'd recommend it.
Found it much easier to cut out the felt under the table to re-insert the hardware (no pics of that).
Finally - thanks to everyone that posted previously. Seeing your work and descriptions definitely made this possible.
View attachment 490667 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/490667/)
View attachment 490668 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/490668/)
View attachment 490669 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/490669/)
View attachment 490670 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/490670/)
View attachment 490672 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/490672/)
View attachment 490673 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/490673/)
Finished Product...
View attachment 490687 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/490687/)
View attachment 490678 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/490678/)
Very nice job!! Felt lines up infinitely better than their original work.
Wow! That felt looks awesome! I jumped the gun with SSC. I may have to do a re-refelt :banghead:
TChan custom cloth?
Wow! That felt looks awesome! I jumped the gun with SSC. I may have to do a re-refelt :banghead:
TChan custom cloth?
Buy a second table for tourneys lol
Wow! That felt looks awesome! I jumped the gun with SSC. I may have to do a re-refelt :banghead:
TChan custom cloth?
Yep - it's a TChan. Saw he could do a version specifically for Barrington tables (maybe is was on this thread) and spent a bunch of time on the Custom Felt thread seeing what was possible. Inspired me to go for it over the SSC.
Buy a second table for tourneys lol
Lol if I ever hosted tournaments that would be a great idea. Usually only run a cash game with 9 guys. Plus the tables are considerably more expensive than when I purchased mine
Wow that looks great, good job!
I think the fabric aligned perfectly.
I am wondering if anyone else ran into this problem, or if it isn't really a problem at all:
When I push down on the rail in the center of the table, there is a sort of major tilting that happens. The legs are perfectly sturdy, but as I push down on the rail in the center (on either side), the top of the table tilts and flexes as the bracket holding it to the legs slides back and forth.
I hope that made sense.
Found one local for $120 brand new in box. Looking forward to digging into the modifications.
And keep the little tips coming. Like the tip that JZPdub gave about the pipe cutter is brilliant, and one less this I need to go out and get or worry about.
has anyone here changed out their speed cloth before? i currently have mine with blue, and wanted to change it to a tan color i think. wasnt sure if refleting for a 2nd time would be too much wear and tear on the table.
has anyone here changed out their speed cloth before? i currently have mine with blue, and wanted to change it to a tan color i think. wasnt sure if refleting for a 2nd time would be too much wear and tear on the table.
I wouldn't think it would be a problem. May be a good time to replace some of the "foam" (if you can even call it that) across the whole playing surface.
I wouldn't think it would be a problem. May be a good time to replace some of the "foam" (if you can even call it that) across the whole playing surface.
GREAT time to replace the foam. When I did my initial refelt I changed out the foam too, from the like 1/16” crap to 1/4” neoprene from a pretty great eBay seller (https://www.ebay.com/usr/foamforyou?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2754). When I say the difference was night and day, I’m not kidding. You won’t regret changing it if you do @Regularjohn (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/6445/)
If replacing the foam to something like a 1/4" Volara, you should only take the new foam to the edge of the rail, correct? Not under it?
Should the new thicker foam go down into the crease/fold in the middle? Or stop so that the thicker foam is only on the top of the table?
If replacing the foam to something like a 1/4" Volara, you should only take the new foam to the edge of the rail, correct? Not under it?
I would think so. If the original arm rest are going back on, you could even leave it a couple inches from the outside edge as the armrest would cover it
GREAT time to replace the foam. When I did my initial refelt I changed out the foam too, from the like 1/16” crap to 1/4” neoprene from a pretty great eBay seller (https://www.ebay.com/usr/foamforyou?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2754). When I say the difference was night and day, I’m not kidding. You won’t regret changing it if you do @Regularjohn (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/6445/)
Do you happen to have photos of the foam replacement by any chance?
Do you happen to have photos of the foam replacement by any chance?
Of the process? No. Of the after product? Yes can send when I get home
found a photo on my phone but it’s not the best to show the upgrade in terms of the foam. To put it in perspective, with the original foam I couldn’t leave my Apache 3800 on it for more than 90 seconds without the imprint lasting for quite a while. With the thicker neoprene, I can leave it on there for a stupid amount of time without it leaving much of a mark and it bounces back very quickly.
Highly recommend you won’t go wrong
found a photo on my phone but it’s not the best to show the upgrade in terms of the foam. To put it in perspective, with the original foam I couldn’t leave my Apache 3800 on it for more than 90 seconds without the imprint lasting for quite a while. With the thicker neoprene, I can leave it on there for a stupid amount of time without it leaving much of a mark and it bounces back very quickly.
Highly recommend you won’t go wrong
View attachment 499120 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/499120/)
Looks good!! :tup:
If replacing the foam to something like a 1/4" Volara, you should only take the new foam to the edge of the rail, correct? Not under it?
Should the new thicker foam go down into the crease/fold in the middle? Or stop so that the thicker foam is only on the top of the table?
I did:
to edge of the rail and not under it. The foam armrests will not sit correctly with larger foam
just to the edge of the table, not into the crease
Photo below...I was sloppy with tucking the vinyl on that rail piece but the foam under the playing surface came out really well
found a photo on my phone but it’s not the best to show the upgrade in terms of the foam. To put it in perspective, with the original foam I couldn’t leave my Apache 3800 on it for more than 90 seconds without the imprint lasting for quite a while. With the thicker neoprene, I can leave it on there for a stupid amount of time without it leaving much of a mark and it bounces back very quickly.
Highly recommend you won’t go wrong
View attachment 499120 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/499120/)
Only thing left to do is upgrade those cup holders. ;)
I know that at one time or another I’ve posted this before but if you are looking for an inexpensive substitute for Volara foam try a product available at swimming pool supply stores named Happy Bottom. I have used it on all my tables and it has held up through seven years of use now. Costs about $12 a table to do.
Only thing left to do is upgrade those cup holders. ;)
So unfortunately there was no real avenue for me to hole saw through the plywood, since a) I was doing the upgrades in my office lol and b) I don't have access to a hole saw. I thought I lucked out and found some unicorn cupholders that were deeper than the originals without popping up, but I was sorely mistaken--I mismeasured :(
If anyone has a line on gold shallow cupholders, I'd pick 10 up in a heartbeat though... Don't think I'll be getting deeper cupholders til the next refelt, and that'll be a while.
EDIT: upgrades not repairs
I know that at one time or another I’ve posted this before but if you are looking for an inexpensive substitute for Volara foam try a product available at swimming pool supply stores named Happy Bottom. I have used it on all my tables and it has held up through seven years of use now. Costs about $12 a table to do.
Is foam all they sell at Happy Bottom?
As a person who took off the foam, saw it went all the way to the table edge, did one side that now has a tilt and cards that get stuck under the rail and THEN read a comment about cutting the foam to the edge of the rail..... trust me.... cut the foam to fit the edge of the rail, don’t cut it to fit the full table. The rail will NOT compress volara foam enough to work right.
As a person who took off the foam, saw it went all the way to the table edge, did one side that now has a tilt and cards that get stuck under the rail and THEN read a comment about cutting the foam to the edge of the rail..... trust me.... cut the foam to fit the edge of the rail, don’t cut it to fit the full table. The rail will NOT compress volara foam enough to work right.
Don't feel bad I did the exact same thing. Must be something in the drinking water here in Western New York ..............................
The resurrection of this thread reminded me that I have some work to do also!
GREAT time to replace the foam. When I did my initial refelt I changed out the foam too, from the like 1/16” crap to 1/4” neoprene from a pretty great eBay seller (https://www.ebay.com/usr/foamforyou?_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2754). When I say the difference was night and day, I’m not kidding. You won’t regret changing it if you do @Regularjohn (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/6445/)
where did you get a roll wide enough/long enough? that eBay (https://www.ebay.com/?mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&siteid=0&campid=5338995683&customid=&toolid=10001&mkevt=1) seller doesnt seem to have anything from what i can see...
where did you get a roll wide enough/long enough? that ebay seller doesnt seem to have anything from what i can see...
This was the exact listing (https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-Neoprene-Closed-Cell-Foam-Waterproof-42-x-72-x-1-4-Thick/263747318706?hash=item3d6890b3b2:g:szkAAOxy0NtTBSga) I purchased. Keep in mind you're only "refoaming" the playing area, which is 73.5"x31.5"--but that measurement is two halves of the table. So each half is 36.75"x31.5".
You cut the 72"x42" neoprene in half and you have two pieces that measure 36"x42". The 36" edge of the neoprene goes along the 31.5" edge of the half-table and the 42" easily covers the 36.75" length.
(And to think I almost failed geometry in high school...)
Also I will always defend neoprene over most gaming cushioning because it's totally waterproof. Especially with my stunted cupholders, with the combo of SSC and neoprene my crew can spill all they want... I actually prefer if they spill on the table not the carpeting lol. And it's just fine for shuffling/peeking at cards/splashing chips the lot. I'm a neoprene fan for life now
EDIT: wc
I got both volera and neoprene was going to double up as I thought the volera was too stiff but was concerned the neoprene would be too soft.
just dropping in to say my resurfaced Barrington saw exactly one game, and has then been my work "desk" since March.
:(
been
When unboxing I noticed a small indent at the corner at the fold. When I refelt and likely add new foam, do you think it’s worth trying to throw some wood patch on it to rebuild the sharp edge? Or will it even be noticeable?
I noticed a Walmart return label on the box from February of this year. I assume whoever originally bought it opened it to see this small nick and closed it right back up for return, because all the other packing materials were like they were from the factory. I would bet that the person I bought it from got it on one of those return pallet auctions.
Other then that I saw no other damage at all despite the box being pretty beat up.
When unboxing I noticed a small indent at the corner at the fold. When I refelt and likely add new foam, do you think it’s worth trying to throw some wood patch on it to rebuild the sharp edge? Or will it even be noticeable?
I noticed a Walmart return label on the box from February of this year. I assume whoever originally bought it opened it to see this small nick and closed it right back up for return, because all the other packing materials were like they were from the factory. I would bet that the person I bought it from got it on one of those return pallet auctions.
Other then that I saw no other damage at all despite the box being pretty beat up.
I'd say if you're not in a hurry, try to rebuild it. you may see a slight dent when the table is unfolded and in play. It would bother me but may not bother you knowing that it's there LOL. But looks like an easy putty and sand flush situation
The most annoying part of this whole thing was removing the crappy table foam. Otherwise a relatively smooth resurfacing.
The most annoying part of this whole thing was removing the crappy table foam. Otherwise a relatively smooth resurfacing.
View attachment 501416 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/501416/)View attachment 501417 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/501417/)
Nice! I'm thinking of using that same red shade for my recover project but I've been a little nervous trying to guess how the color would look from the little thumbnail pics. Where'd you source your material?
Nice! I'm thinking of using that same red shade for my recover project but I've been a little nervous trying to guess how the color would look from the little thumbnail pics. Where'd you source your material?
Got it from Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004UPHFNQ?th=1&psc=1&tag=amznpcfx-20). Since this is my spare table, I didn't want to spend too much money. When I bought the cloth it was $18 for 3 yards. Seems to have gone up a bit.
The PCF mantra: buy samples.
just dropping in to say my resurfaced Barrington saw exactly one game, and has then been my work "desk" since March.
:(
View attachment 499310 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/499310/)been
This post makes me sad. :unsure:
I haven’t read through this whole thread, so forgive me if these have been answered, but how do you pry off the armrests? Should you just go in with your hands, or use some sort of tool? Also, what’s the best place to buy SSC and foam? Also also, when taking off foam, is it possible to do with your hands, or do you need another specific tool? Sorry for the dumb questions.
how do you pry off the armrests?
The glue they use is stronger than the Hulk and will take pieces/layers of compressed wood with it. I got a tiny crack in the first rail using my hands alone, the rest of them I lined up a paint scraper between the cupholder/wood (right where the glue is), got a hammer, and literally chiseled it Through. Saved the railpieces and some of the wood for sure.
what’s the best place to buy SSC and foam?
I got my SSC on Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/?tag=amznpcfx-20) (does the trick in spades) but a lot of people swear by YourAutoTrim
For the foam,see post 306 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/barrington-poker-table-thread.30910/page-11#post-1166152) I swear by neoprene and got a perfect sized piece from a great eBay (https://www.ebay.com/?mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&siteid=0&campid=5338995683&customid=&toolid=10001&mkevt=1) vendor
when taking off foam, is it possible to do with your hands,
Yes incredibly easy no effort required to remove the crappy Barrington foam
I haven’t read through this whole thread, so forgive me if these have been answered, but how do you pry off the armrests? Should you just go in with your hands, or use some sort of tool? Also, what’s the best place to buy SSC and foam? Also also, when taking off foam, is it possible to do with your hands, or do you need another specific tool? Sorry for the dumb questions.
Each armrest is held on with two screws - only prying needed is if glue from the cup holders is really really stuck, and then I would say use a hair dryer to loosen up the glue so the cup holders pull out easily.
I got my SSC on Amazon (does the trick in spades) but a lot of people swear by YourAutoTrim
I got the SSC from Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/?tag=amznpcfx-20) - one time the pizza showed up and I wasn't quite ready for it. We put the pizza box down on the poker table for two minutes. When we picked it up, the steam from the pizza somehow stained the Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/?tag=amznpcfx-20) SSC. That stuff from Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/?tag=amznpcfx-20) is cheaper for a reason. No Teflon coating :tdown: Yourautotrim is really your best friend here.
Am I supposed to take out the cupholders and then the armrests, or is it an all-at-once kind of thing?
No Teflon coating :tdown:
I believe you and am not trying to trade war stories esp. since my table hasn't battled pizza yet, but plenty of beer and cola has been spilled with zero issue whatsoever. My SSC is certainly super water-resistant if not outright waterproof -- the Yuanhe 108x60 (https://www.amazon.com/YH-Poker-108X60-Section-Suited/dp/B0791FZBJ8/ref=sr_1_12?dchild=1&keywords=YH+Poker&qid=1597018797&sr=8-12&tag=amznpcfx-20) is what I got
Am I supposed to take out the cupholders and then the armrests, or is it an all-at-once kind of thing?
I took them all out at once since I chiseled them out, but if you heat the glue first you can probably remove it. Your call on this one
Am I supposed to take out the cupholders and then the armrests, or is it an all-at-once kind of thing?
The cup holders are glued down to the base of the table - use a hair dryer and take your sweet time. Once the cup holder heats up you can pull it out of the table. Then work on the arm rest
EDIT - If you take your sweet time with that hair dryer most of the glue from the cup holder will stay with the cup holder when you pull it out. That makes cleaning it up and getting rid of it REALLY EASY
The cup holders are glued down to the base of the table - use a hair dryer and take your sweet time. Once the cup holder heats up you can pull it out of the table. Then work on the arm rest
EDIT - If you take your sweet time with that hair dryer most of the glue from the cup holder will stay with the cup holder when you pull it out. That makes cleaning it up and getting rid of it REALLY EASY
I’m still not 100% clear on how the armrest itself is held onto the table, is it glue as well? If it’s screwed on, how do you take the screws out? Do you just yank it with the screws?
I’m still not 100% clear on how the armrest itself is held onto the table, is it glue as well? If it’s screwed on, how do you take the screws out? Do you just yank it with the screws?
There are two philips head screws that go from underneath the table, through the table base, and into the wood for the arm rest. Unscrew them and the arm rest comes right off. Save the screws, you will screw the arm rests back on when all is said and done.
There are two philips head screws that go from underneath the table, through the table base, and into the wood for the arm rest. Unscrew them and the arm rest comes right off. Save the screws, you will screw the arm rests back on when all is said and done.
Yea, my armrest did not come right off.
Idk if my table was just f'd in the a, but there was a legitimate glob of wood glue attaching each cupholder to the table. Obviously, if the cupholders are stuck, the rail won't come off by itself.
If you're patient @GianThaMan (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/7006/) , heat the suckers up using a hairdryer or heatgun. If you're efficient, chisel those f**kers off, especially if you're upgrading cupholders. A) Will give you a rough guide of where the holes should be and B) the glue will be gone once you cut through anyway. Easy peasy
Do you just yank it with the screws?
Powerdrill or screwdriver to take them out. DO NOT yank with the screws in lol
Yea, my armrest did not come right off.
Idk if my table was just f'd in the a, but there was a legitimate glob of wood glue attaching each cupholder to the table. Obviously, if the cupholders are stuck, the rail won't come off by itself.
If you're patient @GianThaMan (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/7006/) , heat the suckers up using a hairdryer or heatgun. If you're efficient, chisel those f**kers off, especially if you're upgrading cupholders. A) Will give you a rough guide of where the holes should be and B) the glue will be gone once you cut through anyway. Easy peasy
That's because you chiseled off the cup holders! Heat them up and the glue comes with them.
Lol, I forgot there were screws in the bottom of the table. That explains a lot.
That's because you chiseled off the cup holders! Heat them up and the glue comes with them.
Lol I'm not exaggerating, there was a half-to-a-full inch of hardened wood glue fastening my cupholders. My buddy who helped me redo the table is a union stagehand who essentially does similar stuff for a living, and his exact words were "holy sh!t I've never seen anything like this." After the fact we tried using a hairdryer to get the glue off the cupholders to reuse, but legit 10 minutes barely put a dent.
The wood glue mine came with was nothing short of ossified. Only thing that actually took care of it eventually was soaking 'em in Naphta for a while :banghead:
Lol I'm not exaggerating, there was a half-to-a-full inch of hardened wood glue fastening my cupholders. My buddy who helped me redo the table is a union stagehand who essentially does similar stuff for a living, and his exact words were "holy sh!t I've never seen anything like this." After the fact we tried using a hairdryer to get the glue off the cupholders to reuse, but legit 10 minutes barely put a dent.
The wood glue mine came with was nothing short of ossified. Only thing that actually took care of it eventually was soaking 'em in Naphta for a while :banghead:
Mine wasn't wood glue - mine looked more like someone in assembly used a hot glue gun (overused it would be more accurate)
I haven’t read through this whole thread, so forgive me if these have been answered, but how do you pry off the armrests? Should you just go in with your hands, or use some sort of tool? Also, what’s the best place to buy SSC and foam? Also also, when taking off foam, is it possible to do with your hands, or do you need another specific tool? Sorry for the dumb questions.
I’ll save you the one-off Q & A and having to search through this whole thread.
@jcooper911 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/4913/) lays out the whole process right here - https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/barrington-poker-table-thread.30910/post-647297
Bookmark it. When you are ready, just follow that step-by-step for the felt change, and you are good.
If you want to upgrade the cup holders, search the forum for @Moxie Mike (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/4492/) thread on cup holders.
When you are done, be kind and share your work with the masses. :)
I haven’t read through this whole thread, so forgive me if these have been answered, but how do you pry off the armrests? Should you just go in with your hands, or use some sort of tool? Also, what’s the best place to buy SSC and foam? Also also, when taking off foam, is it possible to do with your hands, or do you need another specific tool? Sorry for the dumb questions.
I guess it may be different depending on who was on shift when they make these things but my armrests weren't glued on at all, just screws. But the cup holders were glued in on one half with almost nothing and the other half with elephant glue. Since the cup holders stop you from lifting the arm rests off, this is likely where you have to pay attention.
Forget it I posted these yet but here’s some from my replacement. Only think I wish I’d done different is I wish I had gotten a @T_Chan (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/71/) custom felt replacement as opposed to SSC. Nothing wrong with SSC just not as cool as a custom felt and it obviously doesn’t have a betting line. Still looking into a good way to add a betting line though.
Forget it I posted these yet but here’s some from my replacement. Only think I wish I’d done different is I wish I had gotten a @T_Chan (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/71/) custom felt replacement as opposed to SSC. Nothing wrong with SSC just not as cool as a custom felt and it obviously doesn’t have a betting line. Still looking into a good way to add a betting line though.View attachment 506267 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/506267/)View attachment 506273 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/506273/)View attachment 506263 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/506263/)View attachment 506264 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/506264/)View attachment 506265 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/506265/)View attachment 506268 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/506268/)View attachment 506270 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/506270/)View attachment 506271 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/506271/)View attachment 506275 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/506275/)View attachment 506266 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/506266/)View attachment 506277 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/506277/)
What size end caps did you use on the bars?
I haven’t read through this whole thread, so forgive me if these have been answered, but how do you pry off the armrests? Should you just go in with your hands, or use some sort of tool? Also, what’s the best place to buy SSC and foam? Also also, when taking off foam, is it possible to do with your hands, or do you need another specific tool? Sorry for the dumb questions.
For the rails/armrests, see picture below.
After you've removed the screws from the bottom of the table, stick a screwdriver under the rail next to the cupholder. Take a hair dryer and aim it directly at the cupholder, maybe 1/2" above the cupholder. Hold there for about a minute. Then start to pry up the rail with the screwdriver. The softened glue will start to separate. You'll either be able to just pry it off, or take the screwdriver and 'cut' the glue.
.View attachment 506266 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/506266/)
Do you have a link for that piano hinge?
What size end caps did you use on the bars?
Unfortunately I don’t know just grabbed them from a table I was tossing :D
Do you have a link for that piano hinge?
Here’s the one I got but it went from $16 (1.5 years ago) to $29 so I’d shop around.
What size end caps did you use on the bars?
I used 1" end caps
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0742KBV6M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s03?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0742KBV6M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s03?ie=UTF8&psc=1&tag=amznpcfx-20)
appreciate the shoutout @Dodger (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/4398/) :-)
Question for you guys - Based on all the recs I’m gonna give this a shot. Where did you start stapling the felt? Did you start at the end of the table that folds and put the clamps on? From there, did you pull the felt tight and staple at top. I’d hate to put it on and have the felt tight but twisted
@ReallyGoodUsername (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/4568/) curious - why’d you change to that 3’ hinge? I mean it looks like it’ll hold up better than the one on the table itself. Did you notice a diff?
@jcooper911 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/4913/) Your step-by-step is awesome. I may try this project this weekend. Got a question - where did you start the stapling? Did you clamp the end first and then pull the new felt to the round end of the a table and start there or did you start with the side of the table? Looking forward to any pointers from anyone to a non DIYer. LOL
Did you clamp the end first and then pull the new felt to the round end of the a table and start there
That's what I did
Looking forward to any pointers from anyone to a non DIYer
Tell a good friend you have a case of beer on hand and need an extra set of hands with this project. Clamps work but I found having a person helped more.
Question for you guys - Based on all the recs I’m gonna give this a shot. Where did you start stapling the felt? Did you start at the end of the table that folds and put the clamps on? From there, did you pull the felt tight and staple at top. I’d hate to put it on and have the felt tight but twisted
If I recall correctly, I started at the underside (aka center of table). Flipped it over to pull tight and stapled the border that the arm rests cover up.
Enlist a buddy like @tabletalker7 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/6127/) said, and you’ll be just fine.
Edit: typo
@jcooper911 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/4913/) Your step-by-step is awesome. I may try this project this weekend. Got a question - where did you start the stapling? Did you clamp the end first and then pull the new felt to the round end of the a table and start there or did you start with the side of the table? Looking forward to any pointers from anyone to a non DIYer. LOL
@john1ecakes so i overlaid the felt on the table, with excess hanging off both sides. i then clamped all around (4 clamps), pulling tight from the middle out. i then clamped, even with the excess hanging over all sides, and started stapling around the outer ring, which is easy to find because you have the edge of the table, and the foam. once i had stapled all around, only then did i start cutting the felt excess off. cut after stapling, not before, because you can always pull it tighter, which is harder if you have already cut to size...
i then stapled the underside of the table last (along the hinges) and then the back side of the middle strut)
i dunno if that makes sense, but i hope it does - i had 4 clamps which i think made it easy for me, although i did a second table at my buddies house, and having 2 people makes it exponentially easier than solo...
@jcooper911 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/4913/) Did you clamp the end first and then pull the new felt to the round end of the a table
this is how you have to do it if you want to line the patterns up in the middle.
Thank you guys for your input. I hope to post some pics this weekend if I can find the time before the football season starts.
So I took the plunge and refelted my table. Thanks to the advice of @jcooper911 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/4913/) i labeled everything! LOL I marked spots where the cup holders go as I cut out the cloth to prep for bigger cup holders at a later date. Took all the advice about how to do it and it turned out great. Thanks again for helping this noob out. I almost wanna get another table just do this again...but I’m not dropping $200+ for this table. LOL
So I took the plunge and refelted my table. Thanks to the advice of @jcooper911 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/4913/) i labeled everything! LOL I marked spots where the cup holders go as I cut out the cloth to prep for bigger cup holders at a later date. Took all the advice about how to do it and it turned out great. Thanks again for helping this noob out. I almost wanna get another table just do this again...but I’m not dropping $200+ for this table. LOLView attachment 533273 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/533273/)View attachment 533275 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/533275/)View attachment 533276 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/533276/)View attachment 533277 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/533277/)View attachment 533278 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/533278/)View attachment 533279 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/533279/)View attachment 533280 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/533280/)
Nice work!!
@jonn1ecakes (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/8206/) thats turned out great, awesome work. that bronze colour speedcloth is definitely unique, first time i have seen it i think. labels definitely make it easier!
so sad my table has been out of use since march 11th after 30 games in the prior 18 months...
@jonn1ecakes (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/8206/) thats turned out great, awesome work. that bronze colour speedcloth is definitely unique, first time i have seen it i think. labels definitely make it easier!
so sad my table has been out of use since march 11th after 30 games in the prior 18 months...
Thanks; it also helped that the color was also on sale. ;)
I like the darker color so the chips and cards somewhat standout when they're on where the I can see some of the group losing a chip or two if I went with the traditional red or green felt. I'm excited to get some use out of this thing now!
Can somebody please tell me the dimensions for the playing surface? I think I would like this table, but the gap in the middle is killing me. Wondering if a poker mat can be placed on the table to cover it, similar to what Triton table does.
Table edge to edge is 84" x 42" with a 5" rail, so the viewable/playable felt area is 74" x 32" of course you also need to take into consideration the seam in the middle for design purposes.
The gap is negligible TBH. Cards slide right over it, even with the crap that was on they’re before.
Like someone previously said, I could’ve gotten away with a shorter length felt but I’d rather have way more than I need than being slightly short.
I have to look but this table has spent more time apart than together (probably even if the shipping from China is included). Making progress. We’ll see how long the next steps take me to complete. :)
View attachment 549179 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/549179/)
I have to look but this table has spent more time apart than together (probably even if the shipping from China is included). Making progress. We’ll see how long the next steps take me to complete. :)
Why didn't you tell me? I could have hopped in my Jeep and been there
So I took the plunge and refelted my table. Thanks to the advice of @jcooper911 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/4913/) i labeled everything! LOL I marked spots where the cup holders go as I cut out the cloth to prep for bigger cup holders at a later date. Took all the advice about how to do it and it turned out great. Thanks again for helping this noob out. I almost wanna get another table just do this again...but I’m not dropping $200+ for this table. LOLView attachment 533273 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/533273/)View attachment 533275 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/533275/)View attachment 533276 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/533276/)View attachment 533277 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/533277/)View attachment 533278 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/533278/)View attachment 533279 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/533279/)View attachment 533280 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/533280/)
Great job and great color! Very classy!
Why didn't you tell me? I could have hopped in my Jeep and been there
Might have motivated me a little. Part of it was trying different things. Tried to plastidip the original foam, then headliner foam. But mainly motivation as this is my fourth table but oddly the only table at my house.
Do you all anticipate these going on sale again this year? I just saw one used near me for $150 pics:
I mean, new is $200. Not much of a savings. Maybe wait? People here have said that they usually go on sale around Black Friday.
I mean, new is $200. Not much of a savings. Maybe wait? People here have said that they usually go on sale around Black Friday.
Dude said price is non-negotiable (he kinda seems like a jerk tbh). Yeah I can’t find this table new for $200 right now, but this close to Black Friday I may as well wait. It’s not like I’m hosting any games anytime soon anyways :p
Yeah kinda douchey but whatever. Someone here posted one from Craigslist for $50 and I immediately grabbed it. Now he said price was non-negotiable. LOL I was okay w that.
Daaaaaaang nice snag. I’m gonna be patient.
lol I told the guy these tables have been as low as $120 or even $100 new and he told me I was dead wrong... mmmm K pal :banghead:
I mean you ain’t wrong but the price on these have stayed pretty high. Sucks.
Daaaaaaang nice snag. I’m gonna be patient.
lol I told the guy these tables have been as low as $120 or even $100 new and he told me I was dead wrong... mmmm K pal :banghead:
I got mine on sale for $99. I am not going to tell you how many years ago that was (mainly because I can't count that high).
Last Christmas they were down to $115 in my area. As Christmas approaches they usually drop.
https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/barrington-poker-table-thread.30910/post-946297
My local Walmart had five of them on sale for $75 each on the day after Christmas a couple of years ago.
Hey guys! Newer member here on the forum. Just got my barrington table and have some suited speed cloth arriving Friday. Did those of you who’ve replaced the felt use a spray adhesive in addition to staples or are staples alone enough to keep it tight? Thanks for all the great info in this thread!
Hey guys! Newer member here on the forum. Just got my barrington table and have some suited speed cloth arriving Friday. Did those of you who’ve replaced the felt use a spray adhesive in addition to staples or are staples alone enough to keep it tight? Thanks for all the great info in this thread!
Just used a staple gun for the felt. The instructions in the beginning of the post were really helpful.
Hey guys! Newer member here on the forum. Just got my barrington table and have some suited speed cloth arriving Friday. Did those of you who’ve replaced the felt use a spray adhesive in addition to staples or are staples alone enough to keep it tight? Thanks for all the great info in this thread!
Staples alone. Save the spray adhesive for replacing the foam under the felt
Staples alone. Save the spray adhesive for replacing the foam under the felt
Thank you!
I can do better but it’s also an overflow table travel table so I shouldn’t be too concerned as I already have two chanman tables and have another two to build so this was a way to see what worked what didn’t.
My contribution to the experiment ways to improve was that I used the original cup holders under the rail to prevent the new ones from falling through. Kind of a fail as the new cup holders now sit just above the rail. I can fix it but probably won’t, unless it won’t close all the way. Probably should have checked that before posting. But I didn’t want to build a bracket and since the new ones fit inside the originals I figured it was worth a shot. If I had put them under the table it would work perfectly but would also need the holes to line up exactly and I didn’t have to glue them to the underside of the table.
Hey guys! Newer member here on the forum. Just got my barrington table and have some suited speed cloth arriving Friday. Did those of you who’ve replaced the felt use a spray adhesive in addition to staples or are staples alone enough to keep it tight? Thanks for all the great info in this thread!
I will say it depends on the cloth that you use. Mine was thin and had some stretch so I sprayed a light haze on the table first. It is important that it is a light coat of 77 too heavy and it bleeds through. Ask me how I know.
I can do better but it’s also an overflow table travel table so I shouldn’t be too concerned as I already have two chanman tables and have another two to build so this was a way to see what worked what didn’t.
My contribution to the experiment ways to improve was that I used the original cup holders under the rail to prevent the new ones from falling through. Kind of a fail as the new cup holders now sit just above the rail. I can fix it but probably won’t, unless it won’t close all the way. Probably should have checked that before posting. But I didn’t want to build a bracket and since the new ones fit inside the originals I figured it was worth a shot. If I had put them under the table it would work perfectly but would also need the holes to line up exactly and I didn’t have to glue them to the underside of the table.
Sweet surface - where is the felt from?
Sweet surface - where is the felt from?
Got it from the eBay (https://www.ebay.com/?mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&siteid=0&campid=5338995683&customid=&toolid=10001&mkevt=1) seller thelayoutcompany or something like that.
It is finished! I have to give a HUGE shoutout to @Nick@TPS (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/1599/) for some of the best customer service I’ve ever experienced anywhere. Not only did they ship my order out within a few hours, but when I realized I ordered 7 feet of SSC instead of 8 (for a little leeway) and emailed them he personally called me, assured me I had enough, gave me some info on refelting, and told me more about the different types of SSC. Top notch guy and he has earned a customer for life. This is their charcoal mini SSC and I’m super happy with it!
Here’s a pic of the construction process. It was so much more seamless than I anticipated. An electric drill and a hair dryer is a must. Just put that sucker on high, stick it down in the bottom of the cup holder, slip your screwdriver/pry bar under, and apply pressure while heating for 20 seconds or so and they lift right off of the glue. Lining up the two sides of the felt was the toughest part, but it’s close enough.
It is finished! I have to give a HUGE shoutout to Nick at Texas Poker Supply for some of the best customer service I’ve ever experienced anywhere. Not only did they ship my order out within a few hours, but when I realized I ordered 7 feet of SSC instead of 8 (for a little leeway) and emailed them he personally called me, assured me I had enough, gave me some info on reflecting, and told me more about the different types of SSC. Top notch guy and he has earned a customer for life. This is their charcoal mini SSC and I’m super happy with it!
View attachment 554934 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/554934/)
Here’s a pic of the construction process. It was so much more seamless than I anticipated. An electric drill and a hair dryer is a must. Just put that sucker on high, stick it down in the bottom of the cup holder, slip your screwdriver/pry bar under, and apply pressure while heating for 20 seconds or so and they lift right off of the glue. Lining up the two sides of the felt was the toughest part, but it’s close enough.
View attachment 554936 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/554936/)
Nicely done! Looks great!
Also added some LEDs underneath the table for a little extra pop.
Also added some LEDs underneath the table for a little extra pop.
View attachment 554970 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/554970/)
Got a pic of the underside? I’m curious about those lights.
Got a pic of the underside? I’m curious about those lights.
Yeah! Here it is. Two $10 LED strips off of Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/?tag=amznpcfx-20). I have a little rechargeable battery pack with two USB outputs velcroed underneath so that I don’t have to run any cables to the table.
This is wonderful. I may try this idea as well. I’d be curious to know which lights and battery packs you got.
This is wonderful. I may try this idea as well. I’d be curious to know which lights and battery packs you got.
Two of these LED strips: https://amzn.to/3oiKJL2 (https://amzn.to/3oiKJL2?tag=amznpcfx-20)
Battery pack: https://amzn.to/3dXXo1d (https://amzn.to/3dXXo1d?tag=amznpcfx-20)
The strips are nice because they have big tactile remotes to change brightness and color but they can also Bluetooth to your phone if you want to control them that way. Plus they have the adhesive ready to go.
Random question - I've noticed the cup holders have gotten a little grimy. Anyone got recommendations on what they're made of and how you've cleaned them? I thought about upgrading to the deeper cup holders but I'm good with what I've got for now.
Or maybe I can just flat out replace them from Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/?tag=amznpcfx-20)?
Random question - I've noticed the cup holders have gotten a little grimy. Anyone got recommendations on what they're made of and how you've cleaned them? I thought about upgrading to the deeper cup holders but I'm good with what I've got for now.
Or maybe I can just flat out replace them from Amazon?
I replaced mine with these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06W2JBLJJ?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06W2JBLJJ?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title&tag=amznpcfx-20)
They are 100 times better than the original cup holders because a beer will not tip over while inside them. Very easy to replace as long as you have a drill and a 2 and 3/4 (70mm) hole saw.
I replaced mine with these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06W2JBLJJ?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B06W2JBLJJ?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title&tag=amznpcfx-20)
They are 100 times better than the original cup holders because a beer will not tip over while inside them. Very easy to replace as long as you have a drill and a 2 and 3/4 (70mm) hole saw.
Yeah, I was thinking of this before but I will hold off on this upgrade.
For all of you who have refelted this table, Did you also remove the old felt?
Did you add a layer of foam or anything below the new felt to give it some squish?
I'm going to re-felt mine soon and wasn't sure if I needed to buy some thin foam for underneath as well.
Thanks!
For all of you who have refelted this table, Did you also remove the old felt?
Did you add a layer of foam or anything below the new felt to give it some squish?
I'm going to re-felt mine soon and wasn't sure if I needed to buy some thin foam for underneath as well.
Thanks!
I did not. Simple swap out - take off the stock surface, replace with SSC. There is some minimal stock padding in there. Not great, but reasonable for this type of table.
For all of you who have refelted this table, Did you also remove the old felt?
Did you add a layer of foam or anything below the new felt to give it some squish?
I'm going to re-felt mine soon and wasn't sure if I needed to buy some thin foam for underneath as well.
Thanks!
interesting... leaving the old felt on might add a little more cushion :jawdrop:
For all of you who have refelted this table, Did you also remove the old felt?
Did you add a layer of foam or anything below the new felt to give it some squish?
I'm going to re-felt mine soon and wasn't sure if I needed to buy some thin foam for underneath as well.
Thanks!
i think you definitely have to take the old felt off because it would be wrinkly under there, but it's super easy - it's loose, floppy, and easy to tear off.
i kept the existing foam. it's good enough, but it would definitely have been better w an upgrade.
For all of you who have refelted this table, Did you also remove the old felt?
Did you add a layer of foam or anything below the new felt to give it some squish?
I'm going to re-felt mine soon and wasn't sure if I needed to buy some thin foam for underneath as well.
Thanks!
I did. Not because I thought the table needed more cushion but more because I was already ripping the table apart so why not
I did not. Simple swap out - take off the stock surface, replace with SSC. There is some minimal stock padding in there. Not great, but reasonable for this type of table.
This. I’ve seen some swap out for thicker foam but I’m content with the foam already on there. Like @Dodger (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/4398/) said, rip off the original felt and swap with new SSC
For all of you who have refelted this table, Did you also remove the old felt?
Did you add a layer of foam or anything below the new felt to give it some squish?
I'm going to re-felt mine soon and wasn't sure if I needed to buy some thin foam for underneath as well.
Thanks!
I didn't add any foam at all. Just stripped the old felt, and put the new one right on top of the foam. I was a bit worried because it didn't look like it went all the way to the edges. But when put together, it felt perfect. No need to replace or add to it.
Anyone here tried with and without the extra foam to see if it makes a big difference?
Anyone here tried with and without the extra foam to see if it makes a big difference?
I think if your search earlier posts or other threads some have put more padding on the table and it came out good.
Anyone here tried with and without the extra foam to see if it makes a big difference?
If you replace the foam, make sure you cut the foam AT THE RAIL! I made the mistake of thinking the rails would go back on with new foam underneath the rail pieces, yeah, didn't work. Once I cut the foam to the size on the playing surface only, everything went back together great.
Has anyone put a PCF topper on a barrington table?
Has anyone put a PCF topper on a barrington table?
Those aren't felts, they are meant to be placed on top of a table, I don't think they'd be thin enough for the railings to connect properly.
Has anyone put a PCF topper on a barrington table?
@markleteenie (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/4766/) refurbed some type of table with one. Looks great
Those aren't felts, they are meant to be placed on top of a table, I don't think they'd be thin enough for the railings to connect properly.
I think he's asking if it would fit to just lay it on top, not build it into the table. Or I could be wrong.
I think he's asking if it would fit to just lay it on top, not build it into the table. Or I could be wrong.
Either I guess. How does the topper compare to speed cloth?
Has anyone redone the rails? As in, took each section off, took off the material and stapled on new vinyl and stuffing?
Has anyone redone the rails? As in, took each section off, took off the material and stapled on new vinyl and stuffing?
Now you're getting into build your own table territory :D
If you're going that far why spend the initial investment on the table instead of just buying the wood and legs for much cheaper?
It was a Fathers Day present from my wife. She knew enough to order me the table which is a bullseye compared to dice chips. Also, who wants to buy their loved one plywood for a present? That’s no fun.
Now you're getting into build your own table territory :D
If you're going that far why spend the initial investment on the table instead of just buying the wood and legs for much cheaper?
It isn't like we are doing all this at once. We refelted the table cause even after refelting it was a good deal. After a few years if rail sections wear out why not do maintenance work instead of starting from square one?
Has anyone put a PCF topper on a barrington table?
I was going to do this but the topper is too short/table too long.
@markleteenie (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/4766/) refurbed some type of table with one. Looks great
I planned to refurb a table, but after disassembling, I could only salvage the legs. So I basically built a brand new table for it, but it does look and perform well.
It isn't like we are doing all this at once. We refelted the table cause even after refelting it was a good deal. After a few years if rail sections wear out why not do maintenance work instead of starting from square one?
Fair enough. I'm doing all this at once cause I don't want to deal with pulling it apart again haha. This is my stop gap table until I eventually drop the big bucks on a chanman table.
If I was planning on replacing the railings too... I'd personally invest in just building a table from scratch so it would be a more traditional 8-9 ft size so it fit 10 players more comfortably. It's about the same amount of work as completely redoing a barrington for about the same price
Looks like it’s on sale for $190. http://www.walmart.com/ip/Barrington-10-Player-Poker-Table-No-Assembly-Required/55465427
Looks like it’s on sale for $190. http://www.walmart.com/ip/Barrington-10-Player-Poker-Table-No-Assembly-Required/55465427
think it'll go down more over the holidays? past forum posts always claim that the price dips to 110-150 during that time.
think it'll go down more over the holidays? past forum posts always claim that the price dips to 110-150 during that time.
It was a few years ago when I got mine, but the day after Christmas sales dropped it to $100 for me. I would wait. Even at 190, you are spending almost another hundred upgrading felt and foam. At that price you can build it yourself
It was a few years ago when I got mine, but the day after Christmas sales dropped it to $100 for me. I would wait. Even at 190, you are spending almost another hundred upgrading felt and foam. At that price you can build it yourself
Good morning everyone, I am new to PCF and the home gaming world. I chose the Barrington Charleston as my first table and thanks to all of the contributors in this forum I am moving ahead with some upgrades. Bought some SSC from YAT and stainless cup holders others recommended. Thanks to all for the great advice and instructions. Stay safe...
Good morning everyone, I am new to PCF and the home gaming world. I chose the Barrington Charleston as my first table and thanks to all of the contributors in this forum I am moving ahead with some upgrades. Bought some SSC from YAT and stainless cup holders others recommended. Thanks to all for the great advice and instructions. Stay safe...View attachment 572502 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/572502/)
Good luck. Everyone here is super helpful should you need it.
Good morning everyone, I am new to PCF and the home gaming world. I chose the Barrington Charleston as my first table and thanks to all of the contributors in this forum I am moving ahead with some upgrades. Bought some SSC from YAT and stainless cup holders others recommended. Thanks to all for the great advice and instructions. Stay safe...View attachment 572502 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/572502/)
Awesome! Be sure to share your results when all is said and done.
Good morning everyone, I am new to PCF and the home gaming world. I chose the Barrington Charleston as my first table and thanks to all of the contributors in this forum I am moving ahead with some upgrades. Bought some SSC from YAT and stainless cup holders others recommended. Thanks to all for the great advice and instructions. Stay safe...View attachment 572502 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/572502/)
This thread was also my first entry into the world of PCF. Welcome and enjoy!!
I’ve got the same style! ❤️ They clean up nice.
All right got the Barrington re-felted and put back together. I really like the way it came out and LOVE the deeper cup holders. Thanks so much to everyone who contributed to this thread, made my life so much easier. Here are a few pics...
All right got the Barrington re-felted and put back together. I really like the way it came out and LOVE the deeper cup holders. Thanks so much to everyone who contributed to this thread, made my life so much easier. Here are a few pics...
Well done! Yes - the deeper cup holders are a big upgrade.
All right got the Barrington re-felted and put back together. I really like the way it came out and LOVE the deeper cup holders. Thanks so much to everyone who contributed to this thread, made my life so much easier. Here are a few pics...
That felt color goes great w that rail. Awesome job!
So I just had a vision...
would it be insanely impractical to have @T_Chan (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/71/) build a rail for the Barrington? I have no easy way to saw out holes for jumbo cup holders, and I kind of want to do a custom felt anyway. Would it be insane to have a rail with no cup holders made and I can just use slide-ins? Should I just get a new table at that point?
So I just had a vision...
would it be insanely impractical to have @T_Chan (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/71/) build a rail for the Barrington? I have no easy way to saw out holes for jumbo cup holders, and I kind of want to do a custom felt anyway. Would it be insane to have a rail with no cup holders made and I can just use slide-ins? Should I just get a new table at that point?
That sounds like it might be more expensive it’s worth. You can try reaching out to @FrankL333 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/7400/) to see if he could build you a rail. He is located in NY. You could also ask him for a price for a whole new table. You would probably have to arrange to pick it up or ship it since he is on the Island. His website is https://www.tlcpokertables.com/
It looks like he does great, quality work. He is currently building my table so I give you personal feedback in a few weeks.
That sounds like it might be more expensive it’s worth. You can try reaching out to @FrankL333 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/7400/) to see if he could build you a rail. He is located in NY. You could also ask him for a price for a whole new table. You would probably have to arrange to pick it up or ship it since he is on the Island. His website is https://www.tlcpokertables.com/
It looks like he does great, quality work. He is currently building my table so I give you personal feedback in a few weeks.
Always an option. Thanks for the info—is local degens gotta support each other
Always an option. Thanks for the info—is local degens gotta support each other
Absolutely lol
So unfortunately there was no real avenue for me to hole saw through the plywood, since a) I was doing the upgrades in my office lol and b) I don't have access to a hole saw. I thought I lucked out and found some unicorn cupholders that were deeper than the originals without popping up, but I was sorely mistaken--I mismeasured :(
If anyone has a line on gold shallow cupholders, I'd pick 10 up in a heartbeat though... Don't think I'll be getting deeper cupholders til the next refelt, and that'll be a while.
EDIT: upgrades not repairs
Gonna redo mine and toss the old ones. Not sure if you still need these let me know
Gonna redo mine and toss the old ones. Not sure if you still need these let me know
...pm sent was not expecting to wake up to a line on cup holders lol
For those looking at these for price drops seems that prices are staying pretty high this time around. Haven't seen any movement on pricing at least through Walmart on these this season. :(
Maybe some post Christmas pricing will happen.
Whoops - forgot to post a final pic of my Barrington project here (Chanman felt). Thanks to everyone for all the tips!!
For those looking at these for price drops seems that prices are staying pretty high this time around. Haven't seen any movement on pricing at least through Walmart on these this season. :(
View attachment 585983 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/585983/)
Maybe some post Christmas pricing will happen.
Wow - it was just $190 last week (pre-Thanksgiving). Don’t know if it’s worth more than $200 before upgrading.
Bummer.
Wow - it was just $190 last week (pre-Thanksgiving). Don’t know if it’s worth more than $200 before upgrading.
Bummer.
I think this is a great buy for around $200. Some minor upgrades (SSC and cupholders) for around $60ish and you have yourself a solid table that is easily stored. I don’t think anyone would be disappointed with it.
I think this is a great buy for around $200. Some minor upgrades (SSC and cupholders) for around $60ish and you have yourself a solid table that is easily stored. I don’t think anyone would be disappointed with it.
I agree. I paid $200 for one and spent about that much on upgrades and it works perfectly. This is especially true as someone who has to take it down and store it after every game and who also doesn’t have easy access to the tools or time needed to make one myself.
Wow - it was just $190 last week (pre-Thanksgiving). Don’t know if it’s worth more than $200 before upgrading.
Bummer.
I think this is a great buy for around $200. Some minor upgrades (SSC and cupholders) for around $60ish and you have yourself a solid table that is easily stored. I don’t think anyone would be disappointed with it.
I don’t think it’s worth it at $200. My max is ~$160 and even that’s high as I’d like to be around $200 all in. It’s not the best built thing and it will take some bumps setting it up and moving it. I have had a bunch of chips in the edges, easy fix with flat black spray paint. But everyone has different factors to consider.
For those looking at these for price drops seems that prices are staying pretty high this time around. Haven't seen any movement on pricing at least through Walmart on these this season. :(
View attachment 585983 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/585983/)
Maybe some post Christmas pricing will happen.
Right, didn’t they go down below $90 a couple of years ago, after Christmas? I’m still kicking myself for not grabbing one at that price, just to have as a spare.
I think it definitely comes down to your priorities for sure. I agree, the quality isn’t amazing, but for the trips it takes from my office to the living room once a week I haven’t seen any damage to it and don’t anticipate any. It would be a much better value under $200, but for me the convenience offsets the extra I paid.
I think it definitely comes down to your priorities for sure. I agree, the quality isn’t amazing, but for the trips it takes from my office to the living room once a week I haven’t seen any damage to it and don’t anticipate any. It would be a much better value under $200, but for me the convenience offsets the extra I paid.
Admittedly my chips came more from the build process that took over a year.
Got this done yesterday:
Upgrades:
Black Suited Speed cloth
1/4" "Ensolite" playing surface
2 1/4" cup holders
All things considered it fits my needs at a price point I am more than comfortable with. Thanks for everyone's posts. Made this process much simpler for a beginner DIYer like myself!
Got this done yesterday:
View attachment 586021 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/586021/)
Upgrades:
Black Suited Speed cloth
1/4" "Ensolite" playing surface
2 1/4" cup holders
All things considered it fits my needs at a price point I am more than comfortable with. Thanks for everyone's posts. Made this process much simpler for a beginner DIYer like myself!
That came out awesome! Nice job
All things considered it fits my needs at a price point I am more than comfortable with. Thanks for everyone's posts. Made this process much simpler for a beginner DIYer like myself!
This sums up the various discussions in this thread nicely.
Great info throughout to help PCFers upgrade.
Whatever the price point, as long as you are comfortable with it, that’s all that matters.
(I recall picking mine up for around $110 last year.)
Whoops - forgot to post a final pic of my Barrington project here (Chanman felt). Thanks to everyone for all the tips!!
View attachment 585984 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/585984/)
This if hawt!! Love the color and the gold cupholders.
Nice job!!!
Thanks to all the advice in this thread, I went ahead and re-felted my Barrington table (which I had bought before even knowing this forum existed) last weekend. Got a custom felt and decided to upgrade the cupholders as well. Pics of the process and final table below. Overall took me just over a day, working all by myself.
A couple things to note (on top of the advice already presented):
Labeled everything with painters tape, so nothing could get out of place
Decided to cut the holes for the cupholders before putting on the custom cloth (see post above)
The hairdryer was key in softening up the glue under the cupholders. Found the by putting a screwdriver/chisel under the rail and putting the hair dryer on the metal worked best
Spent a long time trying to get the felt to line up; pretty pleased with how it turned out, but definitely not 'perfect'
Ended up using a pipe-cutting tool to cut the legs. I started off with my Dremel and some cut discs, but burned through 5 of them and only got through 1.5 legs. Got the pipe cutting tool for like $12 (basically the cost of another set of cut discs) and was able to trim the legs in about 5 min. For anyone adding the cupholders, I'd recommend it.
Found it much easier to cut out the felt under the table to re-insert the hardware (no pics of that).
Finally - thanks to everyone that posted previously. Seeing your work and descriptions definitely made this possible.
View attachment 490667 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/490667/)
View attachment 490668 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/490668/)
View attachment 490669 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/490669/)
View attachment 490670 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/490670/)
View attachment 490672 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/490672/)
View attachment 490673 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/490673/)
Finished Product...
View attachment 490687 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/490687/)
View attachment 490678 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/490678/)
How did you get a seemless middle? Mine has a huge gap I’m thinking because I didn’t pad the middle where it joins I padded the top where the table starts. Any tips on how to make it less would be helpful here’s a pic of mine
I did:
to edge of the rail and not under it. The foam armrests will not sit correctly with larger foam
just to the edge of the table, not into the crease
Photo below...I was sloppy with tucking the vinyl on that rail piece but the foam under the playing surface came out really well
View attachment 499146 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/499146/)
Any tips or suggestions my center has a gap and I see you foamed to the edge and not past the crease. I’m not sure as to why my gap is so big.
How did you get a seemless middle? Mine has a huge gap I’m thinking because I didn’t pad the middle where it joins I padded the top where the table starts. Any tips on how to make it less would be helpful here’s a pic of mine
Can you send pics of the bottom of the table?
My initial guess is that table wasn't flush when you put the hinges back on, and so the hinges are creating the gap.
Maybe take off the hinges that hold the table together, clamp the two sides together so they are tight, and then reapply the hinges?
More pics would be useful.
Hey all! Do you guys have any knowledge about such poker table available in Europe?
Thanks in advance
You can go right through the SSC. Make sure the hole saw is past the padded rail, but above the SSC. Your drill bit should be centered up nicely and in contact with the SSC/table. Start your drill before contacting the SSC. Apply continuous pressure through the table. Couple of seconds per cup holder. Watch the 4 corners as the table legs support is just under those. You'll need to trim about 1-1.5 inches off those to make room for the cup holders in those spots. Check @Regularjohn (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/6445/) 's posts just above.
Coming back to this, I’m afraid it will pull the SSC I installed as I don’t feel like refelting it again. No worries about that happening?
Coming back to this, I’m afraid it will pull the SSC I installed as I don’t feel like refelting it again. No worries about that happening?
I installed my SSC first before drilling bigger holes for cupholders. I was afraid of pulling the SSC from the staples too, but it was a fairly clean cut. There is a bit of a tug when first coming into contact with the SSC, but that's why you need to start the drill before the hole saw teeth comes into contact with it and keep continuous pressure through the table. The drill bit extends beyond the teeth of the hole saw, so you should be able to center up and start stable.
Of course, I'm not in your shoes, so your attempt/experience may differ from mine. Hopefully, a few others who have done this method can chime in with their (successful) attempts and their thoughts.
Thanks. Yeah I tried to accommodate for the cup holders but there’s a a few holes where the SSC felt is in the cutting range.
I cut the holes for the deeper cup holders before replacing the SSC so I didn’t have to worry about damaging it. If the cloth is already installed you can staple it around where the cup holders are. Then use a box cutter to remove the excess over the cup holders so you don’t have to use the saw on the cloth.
Did my refelt on Monday. Pretty happy with it. Plan to do deeper cupholders and add some handles for easier table handling.
This thread was clutch city in the process.
Did my refelt on Monday. Pretty happy with it. Plan to do deeper cupholders and add some handles for easier table handling.
This thread was clutch city in the process.
Looks great! And ‘clutch’ is the perfect word for this thread.
I did the deeper cupholders and handles also. Very clutch!
Did my refelt on Monday. Pretty happy with it. Plan to do deeper cupholders and add some handles for easier table handling.
This thread was clutch city in the process.
Nice work man, looks pure.
I helped a friend of mine re-do his Barrington table. He isn’t a PCF member, but I wanted to share his work. It turned out great.
I helped a friend of mine re-do his Barrington table. He isn’t a PCF member, but I wanted to share his work. It turned out great.
Well done! What kind of cupholders are those?
I helped a friend of mine re-do his Barrington table. He isn’t a PCF member, but I wanted to share his work. It turned out great.
Nicely done! Aligning the center to match is always the toughest, looks super clean!
Nicely done! Aligning the center to match is always the toughest, looks super clean!
Yes...that was a redo. We finished it and realized they didn’t align and had to take it back off. Lol
Well done! What kind of cupholders are those?
Those are the marine cup holders on Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/?tag=amznpcfx-20). Wide top with the skinnier bottom for a beer bottle. They do have to come out to fold the table up properly.
SeaLux 4pcs Stainless Steel Cup Drink Holder with Drain for Marine Boat RV Camper https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0097MF4DU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_W4BXZ6R6E4J29A6918AK (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0097MF4DU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_W4BXZ6R6E4J29A6918AK?tag=amznpcfx-20)
I helped a friend of mine re-do his Barrington table. He isn’t a PCF member, but I wanted to share his work. It turned out great.
Those are the marine cup holders on Amazon. Wide top with the skinnier bottom for a beer bottle. They do have to come out to fold the table up properly.
SeaLux 4pcs Stainless Steel Cup Drink Holder with Drain for Marine Boat RV Camper https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0097MF4DU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_W4BXZ6R6E4J29A6918AK (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0097MF4DU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_W4BXZ6R6E4J29A6918AK?tag=amznpcfx-20)
Looking fantastic!
It’s nice to see someone go with the deeper/wider cup holders on this specific table upgrade. Solid work!
For those who installed deeper/wider cups, does the table still fold as normal or did you have to reconfigure some things to make it fold flush?
For those who installed deeper/wider cups, does the table still fold as normal or did you have to reconfigure some things to make it fold flush?
I went with the deeper cup holders, but still standard width. I believe they are 2 1/4 inches tall. Table folds up no problem for storage. When you move up to the jumbo size cup holders, the depth of the cup holder increases as well so you may have to remove them prior to folding.
Here was my experience, mostly following what I've read in this amazing thread with a couple of new things (at least I think they are new).
I drilled out the cupholders first. I used this auto trim remover tool kit I bought from harbor freight for a few bucks. If you back out the screws underneath the rail just a bit (enough for it to be able to lift up a little without becoming detached completely), and shimmy this auto trim remover tool underneath the cupholder while heating with a blow-dryer, they pop right out.
Another HUGE plus to drilling out the cupholders first, in my opinion, is that the hole and new cupholder will acts as a sort of alignment guide peg when reassembling the rail. After re-felting, you just lay the rail on top and insert the new cupholders. This way, there were absolutely no issues with alignment of the rail pieces; everything went back precisely in the same position/orientation.
From there, I drilled out the cupholders without having to worry about snagging the cloth. Note that you will only be able to drill out 6 of the cupholders as the other 4 are obstructed by the legs underneath. What I did was drill those 4 about halfway (to make sure I was drilling in the exact correct spot), then finished the job when the legs were removed. If I did this again, I would DEFINITELY buy a better hole saw bit. This thing was cheap and dull, and I nearly started a few fires. Be careful if you have a cheap dull bit like this the friction will cause the wood to smoke.
Another note. Wait for the glue to dry again after blow-drying or else it will gum up the teeth of the hole saw bit.
One last note is that you do not have to remove the screws underneath the rails completely. I just backed them out enough to remove the rail, but kept them screwed into the top. This way, you don't have to worry about labeling each one. This coupled with the cupholder-alignment-guide-peg thing mentioned earlier made for a totally seemless reassembly.
Here is me attempting to line up the cloth (I deemed it "good enough" especially doing this alone)
Finished product:
Super easy and fun project! I could not have done this without this forum, thank you all!!
Here was my experience, mostly following what I've read in this amazing thread with a couple of new things (at least I think they are new).
I drilled out the cupholders first. I used this auto trim remover tool kit I bought from harbor freight for a few bucks. If you back out the screws underneath the rail just a bit (enough for it to be able to lift up a little without becoming detached completely), and shimmy this auto trim remover tool underneath the cupholder while heating with a blow-dryer, they pop right out.
Another HUGE plus to drilling out the cupholders first, in my opinion, is that the hole and new cupholder will acts as a sort of alignment guide peg when reassembling the rail. After re-felting, you just lay the rail on top and insert the new cupholders. This way, there were absolutely no issues with alignment of the rail pieces; everything went back precisely in the same position/orientation.
View attachment 629197 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/629197/)
View attachment 629193 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/629193/) View attachment 629194 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/629194/) View attachment 629195 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/629195/)View attachment 629196 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/629196/)
From there, I drilled out the cupholders without having to worry about snagging the cloth. Note that you will only be able to drill out 6 of the cupholders as the other 4 are obstructed by the legs underneath. What I did was drill those 4 about halfway (to make sure I was drilling in the exact correct spot), then finished the job when the legs were removed. If I did this again, I would DEFINITELY buy a better hole saw bit. This thing was cheap and dull, and I nearly started a few fires. Be careful if you have a cheap dull bit like this the friction will cause the wood to smoke.
View attachment 629198 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/629198/)
Another note. Wait for the glue to dry again after blow-drying or else it will gum up the teeth of the hole saw bit.
View attachment 629200 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/629200/)
One last note is that you do not have to remove the screws underneath the rails completely. I just backed them out enough to remove the rail, but kept them screwed into the top. This way, you don't have to worry about labeling each one. This coupled with the cupholder-alignment-guide-peg thing mentioned earlier made for a totally seemless reassembly.
View attachment 629201 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/629201/)View attachment 629202 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/629202/)
Here is me attempting to line up the cloth (I deemed it "good enough" especially doing this alone)
View attachment 629204 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/629204/)View attachment 629205 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/629205/)
Finished product:
View attachment 629206 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/629206/)
Super easy and fun project! I could not have done this without this forum, thank you all!!
Very nice! Did the same color.
PS if I can only find chairs like that now...
Super easy and fun project! I could not have done this without this forum, thank you all
EPIC JOB - looks great.
Out of curiosity, does anyone know if it is possible to add lights to the standard Barrington table by just attaching some underneath the rails while re-installing them? (So in between the felt and the rail)
Out of curiosity, does anyone know if it is possible to add lights to the standard Barrington table by just attaching some underneath the rails while re-installing them? (So in between the felt and the rail)
You would need to add something between the table and the rail to hold up the rail so the lights can go under it. As is, the rail is flush with the table
I reached out to a few local tent/canvas/awning places to ask about potentially making a heavy duty carry bag with handles or straps. Would anyone be interested if we can get a multiple discount? What's a cost that would be appealing?
Out of curiosity, does anyone know if it is possible to add lights to the standard Barrington table by just attaching some underneath the rails while re-installing them? (So in between the felt and the rail)
Some have attached the LED lights that go behind your TV underneath the table.
I reached out to a few local tent/canvas/awning places to ask about potentially making a heavy duty carry bag with handles or straps. Would anyone be interested if we can get a multiple discount? What's a cost that would be appealing?
This would be great as there's not much out there on the market.
Would be interested depending on price.
I reached out to a few local tent/canvas/awning places to ask about potentially making a heavy duty carry bag with handles or straps. Would anyone be interested if we can get a multiple discount? What's a cost that would be appealing?
I would be interested depending on price. I have two other friends that would be interested as well!
So the first quote I got was basically an F U quote, over $200. We’ll see if the other guys respond.
1 1/4” off each end of the leg support is the perfect length for the deeper cup holders.
My table seems to be defective when I first got it and I am afraid to take it apart because I don't know if I could get it back together because it's unaligned. Is it possible to buy a custom sized topper to place on top of the felt instead? I saw some on Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/?tag=amznpcfx-20) but they are not the same size as the poker table itself.
My table seems to be defective when I first got it and I am afraid to take it apart because I don't know if I could get it back together because it's unaligned. Is it possible to buy a custom sized topper to place on top of the felt instead? I saw some on Amazon but they are not the same size as the poker table itself.
If the edges are going to be under the rail, you could buy something oversized and trim it where it needs to be.
If the edges are going to be under the rail, you could buy something oversized and trim it where it needs to be.
I was going to do that as well. I measured it to be 74" x 31.5" but most of the mats I see are 70"-72" long x 36"
Complete refurb completed.
Gold Speed Cloth (YAT)
Refoamed with 1/4" Ensolite (Foam By Mail)
Deeper Cup Holders (here (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06W2JBLJJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1&tag=amznpcfx-20))
3' piano hinge replacement (here (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005J0JZZM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1&tag=amznpcfx-20)). I feel it makes a big difference with stability.
Pretty happy with the fold alignment since I did it all solo.
It was a coin flip between the gold and bronze, but happy with the way this color turned out. I like the slightly brighter color but not overpowering. Midnight blue would have also been in the running if it was in stock.
Foam - I had originally purchased the YAT foam sample kit. Didn't want to do Volara as it was too hard for my tastes, and the issues with permanent indentation made it a no go. Sew foam wasn't bad, a touch soft. HD foam was going to be my choice, but when I went to purchase both the 1/3" and 1/4" were out of stock. Based on some of the recommendations on here I decided to try the 1/4" Ensolite. Incredibly happy with the way it feels. It's on the firmer side, but not too firm. I can stack 40 48mm chips with zero wobble, and still get a fingertip under the cards for card peek.
Highly recommend the 1/4" Ensolite if you're going to redo the foam.
Complete refurb completed.
Gold Speed Cloth (YAT)
Refoamed with 1/4" Ensolite (Foam By Mail)
Deeper Cup Holders (here (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06W2JBLJJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1&tag=amznpcfx-20))
3' piano hinge replacement (here (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005J0JZZM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1&tag=amznpcfx-20)). I feel it makes a big difference with stability.
Pretty happy with the fold alignment since I did it all solo.
It was a coin flip between the gold and bronze, but happy with the way this color turned out. I like the slightly brighter color but not overpowering. Midnight blue would have also been in the running if it was in stock.
Foam - I had originally purchased the YAT foam sample kit. Didn't want to do Volara as it was too hard for my tastes, and the issues with permanent indentation made it a no go. Sew foam wasn't bad, a touch soft. HD foam was going to be my choice, but when I went to purchase both the 1/3" and 1/4" were out of stock. Based on some of the recommendations on here I decided to try the 1/4" Ensolite. Incredibly happy with the way it feels. It's on the firmer side, but not too firm. I can stack 40 48mm chips with zero wobble, and still get a fingertip under the cards for card peek.
Highly recommend the 1/4" Ensolite if you're going to redo the foam.
I did the same color change. Something about the bronze makes it look classy. Haha. Nice job
@TX_Golf_N_Poker (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/7867/) I ordered some supplies from Casino Supply to hopefully create a table top myself.
https://www.casinosupply.com/products/volara-poker-table-foam-padding-59-inches-wide-sold-per-foot-1
https://www.casinosupply.com/products/classic-holdem-layout-green-1
I was looking to create a table top to place over the top of my current table when it's open as it's uneven in the center. I may need to think about getting something underneath the foam but I will see today.
This is the best I came up with without taking apart the table due to it being unaligned when I received it. I placed foam padding underneath the speed cloth and essentially made a mat to go on top of the table so it can be removed as well. For the most part the cloth is flat but it's not perfect by any means. Probably will buy a new better table or build one from scratch in the future.
Right at $275 all in on this conversion, I'm happy with it, ended up taking the fold out so we didn't have a crease in the middle.
@PapiBlanco (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/10517/) Is it possible to remove the rails and felt only like the second picture? Is this easy to do?
Right at $275 all in on this conversion, I'm happy with it, ended up taking the fold out so we didn't have a crease in the middle.
View attachment 655994 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/655994/)View attachment 655995 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/655995/)View attachment 655997 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/655997/)
Great job! How did you take the fold out? Does the table still fold?
Does the table still fold?
To rephrase, the fold crease in the fabric is gone but will the table fold up? If I’m dumb for not fully understanding I apologize lol
To rephrase, the fold crease in the fabric is gone but will the table fold up? If I’m dumb for not fully understanding I apologize lol
oops, i edited out my response. these tables fold like like this with the table surface out, so no, this table must no longer fold. though i suppose with enough effort, you could get it to fold once. :ROFL: :ROFLMAO:
Never thought about asking when I made this thread. Request for sticky for easier access to new members?
View attachment 661942 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/661942/)View attachment 661943 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/661943/)View attachment 661944 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/661944/)View attachment 661945 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/661945/)View attachment 661946 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/661946/)
That came out really nice
Never thought about asking when I made this thread. Request for sticky for easier access to new members?
@Tommy (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/1/) et moderators?
Complete refurb completed.
Gold Speed Cloth (YAT)
Refoamed with 1/4" Ensolite (Foam By Mail)
Deeper Cup Holders (here (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06W2JBLJJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1&tag=amznpcfx-20))
3' piano hinge replacement (here (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005J0JZZM/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1&tag=amznpcfx-20)). I feel it makes a big difference with stability.
Pretty happy with the fold alignment since I did it all solo.
It was a coin flip between the gold and bronze, but happy with the way this color turned out. I like the slightly brighter color but not overpowering. Midnight blue would have also been in the running if it was in stock.
Foam - I had originally purchased the YAT foam sample kit. Didn't want to do Volara as it was too hard for my tastes, and the issues with permanent indentation made it a no go. Sew foam wasn't bad, a touch soft. HD foam was going to be my choice, but when I went to purchase both the 1/3" and 1/4" were out of stock. Based on some of the recommendations on here I decided to try the 1/4" Ensolite. Incredibly happy with the way it feels. It's on the firmer side, but not too firm. I can stack 40 48mm chips with zero wobble, and still get a fingertip under the cards for card peek.
Highly recommend the 1/4" Ensolite if you're going to redo the foam.
Great job. I'm trying to choose between 3/10" HD foam (YAT is out of the 1/4") and1/4" Ensolite. What kind of adhesive did you use with your Ensolite?
I want to upgrade mine also - but how have you and others managed the table legs underneath being in the way? Or is that not an issue?
I want to upgrade mine also - but how have you and others managed the table legs underneath being in the way? Or is that not an issue?
I used a pipe cutter at 4 locations to shorten it where the deeper cupholders will go. Maybe an inch on each side.
I want to upgrade mine also - but how have you and others managed the table legs underneath being in the way? Or is that not an issue?
I used this blade with my circular saw. Cheap and fairly easy. There will be a lot of sparks flying tho.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/DIABLO-...e-27-Depressed-Center-DBD070063701F/202831040 (https://www.homedepot.com/p/DIABLO-7-in-x-1-16-in-x-7-8-in-Metal-Cut-Off-Disc-with-Type-27-Depressed-Center-DBD070063701F/202831040)
Great job. I'm trying to choose between 3/10" HD foam (YAT is out of the 1/4") and1/4" Ensolite. What kind of adhesive did you use with your Ensolite?
3M 77 spray adhesive.
I want to upgrade mine also - but how have you and others managed the table legs underneath being in the way? Or is that not an issue?
I used a pipe cutter at 4 locations to shorten it where the deeper cupholders will go. Maybe an inch on each side.
This. Pipe cutter works perfect. Easy, smooth cut. No sparks. I already had one so it worked out. I have this (https://www.amazon.com/LENOX-21011TC138-Tubing-Cutters-8-Inch/dp/B0006BFP7Q?tag=amznpcfx-20), but there are many options out there.
How heavy are these tables? Anyone make a storage bag for traveling with these things for easier transport?
How heavy are these tables? Anyone make a storage bag for traveling with these things for easier transport?
@TunnelMoney (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/5142/) had a lead on a great one, but it was pricey. Not sure where that stands.
https://www.pokerchipforum.com/thre...olding-table-interest-or-other-options.70392/ (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/carry-bag-for-barrington-folding-table-interest-or-other-options.70392/)
@TunnelMoney (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/5142/) had a lead on a great one, but it was pricey. Not sure where that stands.
https://www.pokerchipforum.com/thre...olding-table-interest-or-other-options.70392/ (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/carry-bag-for-barrington-folding-table-interest-or-other-options.70392/)
I had looked into it, but getting something custom made, either local or through a quality vendor, was cost prohibitive. Haven't pursued it much more.
I reached out to these guys (https://www.tritonpokertables.com/products/folding-table) as the dimensions were similar to see if they would be willing to sell the cover only. Never heard back, and enough time has passed that I doubt I will.
Recently I found this (https://bluewaveproducts.com/collec...ing-texas-holdem-table?variant=31417732759651 (https://bluewaveproducts.com/collections/poker/products/fourth-street-folding-texas-holdem-table?variant=31417732759651)) that looks like a dead ringer for the Barrington table and the dimensions are exact. I reached out to them to see if they would sell the carry case only, will advise if anything comes of it.
I want to upgrade mine also - but how have you and others managed the table legs underneath being in the way? Or is that not an issue?
This was an issue... That I didn't realize until I finished my project lol.
For now I'm stuck with the original shallow cup holders in the corners until my bro can come by and chop off the extra metal
I just finished my refelting and it goofed but It's still better than it was originally. The first half of the table I didn't pull as taught as the 2nd half and as a result the betting line is noticably off. But the felt feels amazing so there's that. Also didn't realize the issue with the legs I mentioned in the last post until the very end.
Also betting line way further out than it looks when the cloth is full, def made for a much larger table.
View attachment 661942 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/661942/)
Is this the cloth from Texas Poker Supply? If so what size did you get? It looks rad.
How have you guys fixed tables with a very slight sag in the middle?
I just bought a used one that doesnt have an adjustable wire on the legs to keep it from wanting to fold the other way when its open
How have you guys fixed tables with a very slight sag in the middle?
I just bought a used one that doesnt have an adjustable wire on the legs to keep it from wanting to fold the other way when its open
Should prob buy some wire and put that back
Should prob buy some wire and put that back
I've never owned a folding table like this, do you have a picture of the wire itself and what makes it adjustable?
I dont think the table ever came with one, so I want to see how tables that have them look like and how I should be installing one to make it the most stable.
I also want to the the mechanism itself that makes the cable adjustable. Is it a special loop thing that you can adjust by hand? Is it a clamp you need a screwdriver for?
I dont think the table ever came with one, so I want to see how tables that have them look like and how I should be installing one to make it the most stable.
I also want to the the mechanism itself that makes the cable adjustable. Is it a special loop thing that you can adjust by hand? Is it a clamp you need a screwdriver for?
I’m not sure the cable is adjustable. @anyone...????
Kind of tough to see, but if you go back to the original tutorial, you can see the wire in some of the photos - https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/barrington-poker-table-thread.30910/post-647297
The wire is not adjustable on the table. It’s fixed in its position and has tension on it once the table is opened. Do you have a picture of your sagging table? We may have suggestions after seeing it.
The wire is not adjustable on the table. It’s fixed in its position and has tension on it once the table is opened. Do you have a picture of your sagging table? We may have suggestions after seeing it.
I'll post one tomorrow once the family celebrations are over for my little sister. The "sag" isn't much, I may he overreacting, butnid love the security of a wire. Or maybe I could bulk it up when I take the table apart to refelt it.
Sorry for the wait, the "bow" is so slight, I dont think itll be too much of an issue
However, this table I bought looks like it's going to be a project to re-felt. There is no rail, just plastic with foam and vinyl. Based off of how the table is constructed, the rail doesnt pop off or is held with screws, its sewn into the felt. This means that I will have to play carpenter and build a rail for this table when I decide to rip it apart, pad it, and upholster it.
I plan on hopefully gutting it and fixing this up for a summer project.
-keeping the table padding and adding speed cloth. May have to replace the padding.
-fabricating rails and installing them
-adding deeper cup holders
-adding handles for easier handling when transporting
-adding a buckle of some sort to keep it closed when in storage/travel.
-potentially sewing a canvas storage bag for this thing to protect it better
I cut out the cloth on the underside of the table to see what the construction looked like already.
Sorry for the wait, the "bow" is so slight, I dont think itll be too much of an issue
However, this table I bought looks like it's going to be a project to re-felt. There is no rail, just plastic with foam and vinyl. Based off of how the table is constructed, the rail doesnt pop off or is held with screws, its sewn into the felt. This means that I will have to play carpenter and build a rail for this table when I decide to rip it apart, pad it, and upholster it.
I plan on hopefully gutting it and fixing this up for a summer project.
-keeping the table padding and adding speed cloth. May have to replace the padding.
-fabricating rails and installing them
-adding deeper cup holders
-adding handles for easier handling when transporting
-adding a buckle of some sort to keep it closed when in storage/travel.
-potentially sewing a canvas storage bag for this thing to protect it better
I cut out the cloth on the underside of the table to see what the construction looked like already.
View attachment 706013 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/706013/)
View attachment 706014 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/706014/)
View attachment 706015 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/706015/)
View attachment 706016 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/706016/)
View attachment 706017 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/706017/)
View attachment 706022 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/706022/)View attachment 706028 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/706028/)
Ah yeah that's def a different brand of table, that's gonna be a lot more effort to refelt.
Ah yeah that's def a different brand of table, that's gonna be a lot more effort to refelt.
I'll probably make another post for when I continue with this table to show how to fix these ones up.
Figured I post it here since there is alot of modifications and such in this thread with lots of shared knowledge, and to show that not all folding tables people find are constructed like the barrington tables.
Got this done yesterday:
View attachment 586021 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/586021/)
Upgrades:
Black Suited Speed cloth
1/4" "Ensolite" playing surface
2 1/4" cup holders
All things considered it fits my needs at a price point I am more than comfortable with. Thanks for everyone's posts. Made this process much simpler for a beginner DIYer like myself!
I finally mustered up the courage to draw a betting line on my table...
It's not perfect, but I'm damn happy with how it turned out. Wish I would've done it sooner!
going to be re-felting soon with some cloth i got from @T_Chan (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/71/) , but also wanted to replace the foam. where do you guys get your 1/4" Ensolite ?
going to be re-felting soon with some cloth i got from @T_Chan (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/71/) , but also wanted to replace the foam. where do you guys get your 1/4" Ensolite ?
https://www.foambymail.com/GR-_BLACK/gym-rubber-black.html
awesome, what size?
awesome, what size?
Full sheet
I finally mustered up the courage to draw a betting line on my table...
View attachment 706732 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/706732/)
It's not perfect, but I'm damn happy with how it turned out. Wish I would've done it sooner!
what did you draw the betting line with?
what did you draw the betting line with?
silver paint marker (https://www.ebay.com/itm/254839465426) using a ruler as a jig for the rounded part.
Got my table. Not crazy about the fold in the middle, so I contacted like a million custom gaming mouse pad manufacturers and found one that will do a full size rollout mat with custom art work. I'll keep this thread posted once I receive it and let you know how it works. My idea would be to cut it to precisely the dimensions of the playing area and put it down before every game (e.g. not re-felting the table) so we don't have the crease there.
Fingers crossed!
I contacted like a million custom gaming mouse pad manufacturers and found one that will do a full size rollout mat with custom art work. I'll keep this thread posted once I receive it and let you know how it works.
Yes, please keep us informed of your progress!
Got my table. Not crazy about the fold in the middle, so I contacted like a million custom gaming mouse pad manufacturers and found one that will do a full size rollout mat with custom art work. I'll keep this thread posted once I receive it and let you know how it works. My idea would be to cut it to precisely the dimensions of the playing area and put it down before every game (e.g. not re-felting the table) so we don't have the crease there.
Fingers crossed!
How much was the quote?
How much was the quote?
Haven't heard yet
Got my table. Not crazy about the fold in the middle, so I contacted like a million custom gaming mouse pad manufacturers and found one that will do a full size rollout mat with custom art work. I'll keep this thread posted once I receive it and let you know how it works. My idea would be to cut it to precisely the dimensions of the playing area and put it down before every game (e.g. not re-felting the table) so we don't have the crease there.
Fingers crossed!
Looking forward to seeing how this turns out. I've tried to find out who make the PCF table toppers that we have GBs for here. I'd like to have several different custom ones made, then build a table that they would fit on so that I could change them out whenever I wanted to. If this one of yours isn't too expensive, I'd be interested in using them too.
Looking forward to seeing how this turns out. I've tried to find out who make the PCF table toppers that we have GBs for here. I'd like to have several different custom ones made, then build a table that they would fit on so that I could change them out whenever I wanted to. If this one of yours isn't too expensive, I'd be interested in using them too.
I'll let you all know once I hear back. I agree, being able to switch them in and out would be really cool.
Alright I have the quote back from a vendor in New Zealand. They're charging me $150 for 3mm rubber backed mouse pad (74" x 32") and $160 for 4mm. Both are full print custom artwork options and free shipping worldwide(!!!) I'm going to go with the 4mm option and will post more details here for you all then. Not providing the vendor info at this moment only because he was somewhat hesitant to do it to begin with and I want to make sure the quality is worth even recommending to you all as fellow chippers. If this works out, though, it could mean a lot more business for this guy lol. Pretty excited about this!
I'm just finalizing my artwork now, so I expect something more to share by ~ early August hopefully.
I can get behind free worldwide shipping
I can get behind free worldwide shipping
Yeah no shit!
I'm curious about this too... it's a cool idea if nothing else but I'm a little skeptical about playability and how it's going to hold up over time. Mousepads tend to wear over time and they're not designed to be stain resistant or anything (I don't think).
It’s a great idea, but the price seems sky high to me. I understand that one-offs are going to be expensive, but that’s almost 3x as much as the PCF mousepad tat or top mats, and those are a thicker pad. You can get a fully custom photo-quality replacement cloth for that price, which will almost certainly be a better quality and more durable playing surface.
it’s a creat idea. I love great ideas (I have plenty of great ideas; problem is most of them stink - Carlin.). And I am usually first in line to overpay for a crazy, great idea. So I get it. But just saying - this is not cheap.
The PCF mat is thicker than 4mm? I find that hard to believe, considering I have other poker mats that are < 2mm in thickness. If they are, that's outstanding and we should find out what manufacturer did them. Can you confirm?
The PCF topper is 6mm, the mousepad is 3mm.
A cheaper solution might be to get a budget poker mat (around $40), cut it to size, and cover it with a custom cloth (using spray adhesive). Or just cut it to size (most are 72x36) and use it as-is on top of the Barrington.
A cheaper solution might be to get a budget poker mat (around $40), cut it to size, and cover it with a custom cloth (using spray adhesive).
I had often wondered how feasible it would be to get a decent foam like Ensolite and use a spray adhesive to attach speed cloth. I wonder how well it would roll up and store.
I had often wondered how feasible it would be to get a decent foam like Ensolite and use a spray adhesive to attach speed cloth. I wonder how well it would roll up and store.
Speedcloth is pretty stiff; gaming cloth would both adhere and roll much better. I've done it with various store fabrics on 1/4" upholstery headliner foam.
SSC would probably be okay so long as you didn't roll it too tightly (minimu 8" to 10" diamater roll, etc.). Just need to make sure to use ample adhesive and let it thoroughly dry.
A cheaper solution might be to get a budget poker mat (around $40), cut it to size, and cover it with a custom cloth (using spray adhesive). Or just cut it to size (most are 72x36) and use it as-is on top of the Barrington.
Chanman custom felts are > $200 so I felt like $150 was a bargain considering they're claiming to be HD print and it comes with 4mm of rubber backing. If anyone knows where the PCF mats came from I am happy to investigate further.
Lots of poker cloth options for well under $100. But do what you want.
Ask @Tommy (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/1/) about the source for the PCF mats.
Lots of poker cloth options for well under $100. But do what you want.
Ask @Tommy (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/1/) about the source for the PCF mats.
Do you have links to any of these vendors who will do custom felts for under $100?
In case anyone wants a topper for their barrington
https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/super-poker-world-best-table-topper-ever.77698/#post-1582178
For those of you that have this table, how vexing is the fold in the playing area? Do cards ever get caught there?
Would you rather play on a nice dining table with the PCF topper or a stock barrington folding table? (Not a re-felted one)
For those of you that have this table, how vexing is the fold in the playing area? Do cards ever get caught there?
Would you rather play on a nice dining table with the PCF topper or a stock barrington folding table? (Not a re-felted one)
I would take the PCF topper over a stock Barrington table, but I would take a refelted Barrington table over a PCF topper. The stock felt on the Barrington table is THAT BAD! Once you deal with that felt, the rest of the table is pretty decent.
+1 the felt on the barrington table is like playing on a flannel sheet. It's awful.
The fold in the table isn’t a bother?
The fold in the table isn’t a bother?
For me, personally, I hate the fold. Others don't mind it. I suspect that this variance in feedback is due to quality control standards for the barrington tables. Because they're "cheap" stock tables, I bet that some tables have folds that aren't perfectly even. For me, the cards were getting stuck passing over the fold constantly hence why I wanted to order the above table toppers. For others, I've heard that's not a big deal and the fold is "even".
Aside from performance, I personally think the fold looks terrible :). All this being said, the money was right for the Barrington and I don't regret getting it at all.
For me, the cards were getting stuck passing over the fold constantly hence why I wanted to order the above table toppers
Did you try adjusting the tension of the cable underneath to make the table "even"? That's what I had to do when I received my table and no complaints since then.
Also...refelted Barrington > PCF table topper > stock Barrington.
Did you try adjusting the tension of the cable underneath to make the table "even"? That's what I had to do when I received my table and no complaints since then.
Also...refelted Barrington > PCF table topper > stock Barrington.
Yeah... Unfortunately couldn't get it to align. I think the wood underneath might be slightly warped. For $100 I couldn't justify the effort to send it back.
Scored TWO of these today for $100 each on FB marketplace. Seller even through in 1000 dice chips that’ll I’ll probably try and re-home.
Both have a few small nicks and tears in the vinyl, but nothing that some black tape couldn’t hide.
Is there a preferred type of tape to fix/repair torn rail vinyl?
Is there a preferred type of tape to fix/repair torn rail vinyl?
Nice score worth it at $100 all day.
I used the 3M vinyl kit with decent success. Mine was a small blemish from glue getting on the rail and me pulling it off.
got my new felt from @T_Chan (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/71/) and rubber to replace the padding.
this will be the 2nd time i'll be updating my table. first one was adding speed cloth, 2nd was adding deeper cup holders.
any tips/tricks when adding cloth from @T_Chan (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/71/) ? same with adding the new padding, im assuming you just spray the 3M adhesive and throw it on.
@Regularjohn (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/6445/) it looks like he has a video of him adding cloth to a table here:
I haven't actually done it myself (yet) but guessing this should help
any tips/tricks when adding cloth from @T_Chan ? same with adding the new padding, im assuming you just spray the 3M adhesive and throw it on
For the padding, you need to cut the padding where the rails meet the playing surface. Padding under the rails will not let the rails go back on right.
Just gonna throw my 2 cents in. These mofos are heavier than $hit!! I would avoid them like the plague. I picked one up to use as a portable table, but found that they suck compared to other options because they are so heavy. I have a table similar to the one below as well, and it is much easier to move around.
I have a few questions…
A few types of foams have been mentioned ( Ensolite, volera, neoprene, headliner, HD foam). Is there one specific foam that is the better?
Any tips from those who replaced the foam on cutting the new foam to the correct size?
If you replace the foam, make sure you cut the foam AT THE RAIL! I made the mistake of thinking the rails would go back on with new foam underneath the rail pieces, yeah, didn't work. Once I cut the foam to the size on the playing surface only, everything went back together great.
Since adhesive spray is used when laying down new foam, do you have to wait a certain amount of time before you start to laying down the felt over the new foam.
When installing the deeper cup holders, what is holding them in place?
For those that used a custom felt by @T_Chan (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/71/) ( @WhiteMamba1646 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/4164/) @wonderpuddle (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/3167/) @JZPdub (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/8361/) ). Did you guys use an adhesive spray when laying down the felt?
What type of staple gun did you use?
Thanks
I have a few questions…
A few types of foams have been mentioned ( Ensolite, volera, neoprene, headliner, HD foam). Is there one specific foam that is the better?
Any tips from those who replaced the foam on cutting the new foam to the correct size?
Since adhesive spray is used when laying down new foam, do you have to wait a certain amount of time before you start to laying down the felt over the new foam.
When installing the deeper cup holders, what is holding them in place?
For those that used a custom felt by @T_Chan (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/71/) ( @WhiteMamba1646 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/4164/) @wonderpuddle (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/3167/) @JZPdub (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/8361/) ). Did you guys use an adhesive spray when laying down the felt?
What type of staple gun did you use?
Thanks
Can’t speak to the foam, but:
I did not add anything under the deeper cup holders and they stay in quite well. Most of the support comes from the snug fit in the newly cut holes and from the rail itself. (Some others have added an extra piece underneath for support.) My cup holders stay in when folding up for storage as well. So no issue there.
Standard staple gun.
I have a few questions…
A few types of foams have been mentioned ( Ensolite, volera, neoprene, headliner, HD foam). Is there one specific foam that is the better?
Any tips from those who replaced the foam on cutting the new foam to the correct size?
Since adhesive spray is used when laying down new foam, do you have to wait a certain amount of time before you start to laying down the felt over the new foam.
When installing the deeper cup holders, what is holding them in place?
For those that used a custom felt by @T_Chan (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/71/) ( @WhiteMamba1646 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/4164/) @wonderpuddle (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/3167/) @JZPdub (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/8361/) ). Did you guys use an adhesive spray when laying down the felt?
What type of staple gun did you use?
Thanks
Take off the rails, spray adhesive where the existing foam is underneath.
Cut to size.
Lay speed cloth over the the foam. You’ll need to apply tension evenly so use some clamps to hold the speed foam and staple in into place.
Cut to size.
Re-install foam rails.
You’ll have to do this twice. Double check measurements. And wha-la
Put it back together and play.
Cup Holders: drill the correct size hole through, and simply set the cup holder in place. No need for a permanent adhesion. Sometimes people will drop something in the cup holder and wont be able to get the item out. (Herb grinders or whatever there is out there that fits perfectly lol)
I have a few questions…
No, didn’t use spray adhesive. Just used clamps to put it in place, and then tightened it as I put the staples in. Given how much tweaking you may need to do to get the two pieces to line up, I would advise against the spray adhesive.
I have a few questions…
A few types of foams have been mentioned ( Ensolite, volera, neoprene, headliner, HD foam). Is there one specific foam that is the better?
Any tips from those who replaced the foam on cutting the new foam to the correct size?
Since adhesive spray is used when laying down new foam, do you have to wait a certain amount of time before you start to laying down the felt over the new foam.
When installing the deeper cup holders, what is holding them in place?
For those that used a custom felt by @T_Chan (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/71/) ( @WhiteMamba1646 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/4164/) @wonderpuddle (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/3167/) @JZPdub (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/8361/) ). Did you guys use an adhesive spray when laying down the felt?
What type of staple gun did you use?
Thanks
On my barrington, I just re-used the cheap foam that was there. In retrospect, closed cell foam would have probably been better. But this was my first table and I didn’t know any better. It still works, but my round table top and my chanman feel better.
I lightly sprayed some fabric adhesive when I installed my felt. Not sure it was necessary but I did use some.
Hope this helps.
So what’s a good price these days for a barrington? I have a chance at one for $230 shipped
So what’s a good price these days for a barrington? I have a chance at one for $230 shipped
At this point I would say buy it yesterday!
I got one at Walmart on sale a month ago for $99. So I think wait it out a bit
At this point I would say buy it yesterday!
I got one at Walmart on sale a month ago for $99. So I think wait it out a bit
Dude! Did you post the deal here? Next time post it so we can get one too
Dude! Did you post the deal here? Next time post it so we can get one too
It was in person in northeast PA, when I went online it was the $230 one they currently have. I actually wonder if it was a mistake in the store
It was in person in northeast PA, when I went online it was the $230 one they currently have. I actually wonder if it was a mistake in the store
Woah, you should have cleaned them out haha
Walmart has them for $224 + free ship
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Barrington-10-Player-Poker-Table-No-Assembly-Required/55465427
Woah, you should have cleaned them out haha
I did! I took their last remaining one lol
What's the size of the (padded) rail? Any difference between the Barrington versions?
What's the size of the (padded) rail? Any difference between the Barrington versions?
No different
Edit: brown rails are the same as the regular and ESPN table.
ESPN table has a slightly higher rail and a simple switch underneath that you’d have to work around. But it’s only higher up to accommodate the LED strip
Thanks. And what's the height from the felt?
Thanks. And what's the height from the felt?
For which style
For which style
1 1/8th inch
i would take pics but it’s folded stored away in a whack spot
1 1/8th inch
i would take pics but it’s folded stored away in a whack spot
that’s also after velora foam and speed cloth, and the way that the rails screw into it makes zero difference in height/depth from stock
Thanks, @Teach42 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/5840/), for the recommendation. I installed these 2 handles (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000R2J3KY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1&tag=amznpcfx-20) and it makes carrying the barrington way way easier. Very easy to install, just 4 holes (2 for each handle).
What's the sizes of cupholders?
Got an email from WallyWorld about these being on sale for $201.60. They had been out of stock for a long time so they must have found some in a warehouse. Kinda doubt they are every going to be much cheaper at the retail level again. The days of the $100 price may only be found used and/or second hand anymore.
Mine was $100 at Walmart 2 months ago, but it was in Wilkes barre, PA and I feel like it might have been an error. Last one in stock too, sorry :(
$200 is a no brainer honestly. Do it!
It is worth every penny of $200
It is worth every penny of $200
Agreed. Mines held up to 30-40 games with at least one a week like a champ.
Agreed. Mines held up to 30-40 games with at least one a week like a champ.
Yeah man, mine is solid. Even after the re-finish.
Recently saw pics from the Havana Card Room labor day party/meet-up... that table is holding like... hundreds of pounds of chips...
Walmart has them for $224 + free ship
http://www.walmart.com/ip/Barrington-10-Player-Poker-Table-No-Assembly-Required/55465427
Currently at $181.50 (lowest price I have seen in the past year):
Currently at $181.50 (lowest price I have seen in the past year):
View attachment 774091 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/774091/)
Just ordered, thanks for the heads up. I’ve been waiting for a deal and this looks like the best I’m gonna get
Just ordered, thanks for the heads up. I’ve been waiting for a deal and this looks like the best I’m gonna get
Same here...
Inspired by this thread, I refitted two tables for a buddy of mine this summer. Both of these involved drilling for deeper cupholders, and replacing not only felt, but foam underneath and replacing the vinyl on the rails with pleather (which wound up being the most time consuming aspect of the project).
First up was the blue table. At some point, I'll need to revisit this one, the client and I had a miscommunication and it turned out that he wanted jumbo sized cupholders. When I re-refit this one, I might also raise the rail and add lights.
Inspired by this thread, I refitted two tables for a buddy of mine this summer. Both of these involved drilling for deeper cupholders, and replacing not only felt, but foam underneath and replacing the vinyl on the rails with pleather (which wound up being the most time consuming aspect of the project).
The second (red) table started out as the ESPN lighted table. When I did this refit, I went ahead and drilled for jumbo cupholders, and replaced the lights, along with felt, foam, and pleather. He was very pleased with how this turned out, and had custom bags made as carrying cases for these tables. If there's interest, I can get specific info from him on those carrying bags.
Inspired by this thread, I refitted two tables for a buddy of mine this summer. Both of these involved drilling for deeper cupholders, and replacing not only felt, but foam underneath and replacing the vinyl on the rails with pleather (which wound up being the most time consuming aspect of the project).
The second (red) table started out as the ESPN lighted table. When I did this refit, I went ahead and drilled for jumbo cupholders, and replaced the lights, along with felt, foam, and pleather. He was very pleased with how this turned out, and had custom bags made as carrying cases for these tables. If there's interest, I can get specific info from him on those carrying bags.
Nice work on these. I’ve heard people complain that the lights are too bright on the espn table. Did you have to install a dimmer? Also what foam did you use during the replacement?
Nice work on these. I’ve heard people complain that the lights are too bright on the espn table. Did you have to install a dimmer? Also what foam did you use during the replacement?
The lights I used were whatever cheap chinese RGB lightstrip was on special on Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/?tag=amznpcfx-20) that day, LOL. It came with a remote, and they are dimmable. These are very similar to what I installed: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08G92D3NG (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08G92D3NG?tag=amznpcfx-20)
I used this foam, also via Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/?tag=amznpcfx-20): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076XNL217 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076XNL217?tag=amznpcfx-20)
This synthetic leather worked surprisingly well for the rail vinyl: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08JLVLLBM (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08JLVLLBM?tag=amznpcfx-20)
My only gripe with it was it arrived folded instead of rolled. But a 1/2 hour or so unfolded on a sunny concrete driveway took care of that...
The lights I used were whatever cheap chinese RGB lightstrip was on special on Amazon that day, LOL. It came with a remote, and they are dimmable. These are very similar to what I installed: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08G92D3NG (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08G92D3NG?tag=amznpcfx-20)
I used this foam, also via Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076XNL217 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076XNL217?tag=amznpcfx-20)
This synthetic leather worked surprisingly well for the rail vinyl: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08JLVLLBM (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08JLVLLBM?tag=amznpcfx-20)
My only gripe with it was it arrived folded instead of rolled. But a 1/2 hour or so unfolded on a sunny concrete driveway took care of that...
Great info. I bookmarked this for when I decide to take the upgrade plunge
He was very pleased with how this turned out, and had custom bags made as carrying cases for these tables. If there's interest, I can get specific info from him on those carrying bags.
I'd be interested in hearing more about the carry bag.
Every time I look back at this thread, makes me want to get custom felt from Chanman but then I'm conflicted on just building a non-folding custom table with the custom felt....
Every time I look back at this thread, makes me want to get custom felt from Chanman but then I'm conflicted on just building a non-folding custom table with the custom felt....
View attachment 779204 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/779204/)
I don't need that type of solid logic right now!! My wallet can't handle it
Every time I look back at this thread, makes me want to get custom felt from Chanman but then I'm conflicted on just building a non-folding custom table with the custom felt....
You find yourself wondering that. Originally got the Barrington because I found it second hand for under $100 and figured a folding table would be great for storage. Since then I have replaced the felt, expanded the cup holders, and can't remember the last time I folded it up for storage.
So while the table still works great, I sometimes wonder why I didn't just build a fully custom table.
You find yourself wondering that. Originally got the Barrington because I found it second hand for under $100 and figured a folding table would be great for storage. Since then I have replaced the felt, expanded the cup holders, and can't remember the last time I folded it up for storage.
So while the table still works great, I sometimes wonder why I didn't just build a fully custom table.
View attachment 779195 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/779195/)
Yeah, I modded mine out with help of this thread. Even put USB chargers under rail for every seat and never fold my table up. Contemplating just making it one solid piece of wood on top, padding, felting and calling it a day
Yeah, I modded mine out with help of this thread. Even put USB chargers under rail for every seat [...]
Get ready for some threatening letters. ;)
Post in thread 'USB Ports Patented, Cease & desist' https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/usb-ports-patented-cease-desist.74047/post-1505242
Yikes didn’t notice that thread was a thing. And honestly, glad I didn’t pull the trigger on a full dealer table from Gorilla. Won’t be buying from them. just my 2¢
Yikes didn’t notice that thread was a thing. And honestly, glad I didn’t pull the trigger on a full dealer table from Gorilla. Won’t be buying from them. just my 2¢
I like to spread awareness about this disgraceful event in PCF history for this exact reason.
Everybody can order from whomever they want but I think more people should be aware of who exactly they are dealing with.
I'd be interested in hearing more about the carry bag.
I'm attempting to find out more. He gave me the name of the place that did it for him, I've called and left messages in hopes of getting a quote. Stay tuned...
Sharing my build. Thank you to the contributors of this thread - definitely simplified the process! Some call-outs:
yourautotrim royal blue mini SSC was sold out, so I swapped to burgundy and am very pleased (yay samples)
I only had 4 clamps, a manual Phillips screwdriver, T50 1/4 inch staples. I spent about 10 combined hours from start to finish. I was able to do this in a tiny Seattle apartment.
I did not initially read the comment about using a blow dryer to loosen the glue under the railings, and I ended up cracking one of my rails. Luckily the damage was not visible once the table was reassembled.
I used a silver color oil based marker for the bet line. The best tool I had for the curves was a frying pan, and you can definetly see the imperfections if you look for it.
Just hosted for the first time with my Super Poker World (Mario) themed table topper. Very happy with how it fits in the barrington. Felt like actual speed cloth!
Just hosted for the first time with my Super Poker World (Mario) themed table topper. Very happy with how it fits in the barrington. Felt like actual speed cloth!
View attachment 806854 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/806854/)View attachment 806855 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/806855/)View attachment 806856 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/806856/)View attachment 806857 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/806857/)
Looks great! I really love the whole theme. Any plans for matching cards? (I don’t know if it’d be a bit too much for people to play with them)
As an aside, are there any other good tables in the same price range as the Barrington, or should I just go for the Barrington? I like the price/simplicity, and the ability to upgrade in the future if I need to (but don’t have to).
There's a group buy for nintendo cards here: https://www.pokerchipforum.com/thre...size-standard-index.80663/page-3#post-1675205 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/nintendo-100-plastic-playing-cards-bridge-size-standard-index.80663/page-3#post-1675205)
I don't think they're going to match the mario theme very closely though... If I could find a vendor who made nice plastic cards I would consider having some made.
There's a group buy for nintendo cards here: https://www.pokerchipforum.com/thre...size-standard-index.80663/page-3#post-1675205 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/nintendo-100-plastic-playing-cards-bridge-size-standard-index.80663/page-3#post-1675205)
I don't think they're going to match the mario theme very closely though... If I could find a vendor who made nice plastic cards I would consider having some made.
Yeah I saw those. They aren’t as interesting as your design despite being official, though probably to more people’s tastes in terms of playability.
If I did go the route of custom cards, I would probably have to make some new artwork for Jacks through Aces as mario characters :) Sigh... too much work.
I got a lot of help from this forum on redoing mine so I wanted to spread the wealth on those who have the ESPN table.
Tips:
The only difference is there is a layer of plyboard underneath the arm rests, but this affects how you will build it.
Bring the foam padding under the plywood that the front quarter rests on it. this will give it a slight slant upwards which will create a deeper ring affect, and will also allow you to use LED's still.
If you are drilling out cup holders, do not go bigger than 2.75", otherwise you will eat through the entire LED plywood sheet. Because of this extra depth you also do not need to cut the legs of the table unless your cup depth is over 2.5"
You should absolutely replace the foam under the felt. IT IS GARBAGE. since you'll already have most of the work done, spend the extra $30 and get some good foam. I used elmers adhesive spray because I already had it, otherwise i'd use 3M. Elmers worked fine for me.
Replace the LED's. We all know that the ones they originally use are too bright, and the inability to change the color is annoying.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08JH5M6N3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08JH5M6N3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1&tag=amznpcfx-20)
That is what I used and they look great for the price!
Total cost:
$136 for new speed cloth and foam from TPS
$30 set of 10 2.75" diameter, 2.5" depth cup drop ins.
$16 multicolored LED's
$22 for clamps and hole cutter (I already had the rest of the tools)
I am generally a handy guy, but have little woodworking experience. From start to finish it took me about 8 hours.
Pics
The brown version is $153.90 right now on Walmart.com with free shipping. I decided to go ahead and pick one up for a revamp.
Question for those of you that replaced the pad as well as the cloth. Do you wrap the pad completely over the fold in the middle and staple underneath? I've always used the spray glue for pads just wondering how it all works with the fold in the table.
Do you wrap the pad completely over the fold in the middle and staple underneath?
I ran the pad to the edge of the fold.
Question for those of you that replaced the pad as well as the cloth. Do you wrap the pad completely over the fold in the middle and staple underneath? I've always used the spray glue for pads just wondering how it all works with the fold in the table.
I literally disassembled the table, ripped off the old felt and old foam, reassembled the bare table, glued down the new foam, and cut the foam at the fold. Then I took it back apart to do the felt
I literally disassembled the table, ripped off the old felt and old foam, reassembled the bare table, glued down the new foam, and cut the foam at the fold. Then I took it back apart to do the felt
That's the plan is to completely disassemble it when I get it. A couple guys in our league have the exact tables and the felt and pad are terrible. I have leftover stuff from another table I'm gonna put a new pad and speed cloth on it. Might do the cup holder upgrade if I can find a good price on those.
Just started working on my two tables today, and here’s my contribution/discovery to this thread.
When drilling out the cup holders, I found that flipping the hole drill bit upside down and marking the center was the easiest way to make sure the newly drilled holes lined up with the old holes in the rail/vinyl.
The holes drilled in the rail are way bigger than needed, and I was too worried about ripping the vinyl in the rail if I tried to drill with the rails still attached.
Updates to follow!
Also, these are for sale for $155 at Walmart right now. Cheapest I’ve seen them in a while.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Barringt...V_GxvBB3NMwpyEAQYASABEgJLMPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds (https://www.walmart.com/ip/Barrington-10-Player-Poker-Table-No-Assembly-Required/55465427?gbraid=0AAAAADmfBIpi7wxwSRLVd4xi3ra8PoNh0&wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&&adid=22222222228000000000&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=m&wl3=42423897272&wl4=pla-51320962143&wl5=9027692&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=online&wl12=55465427&veh=sem&gbraid=0AAAAADmfBIpi7wxwSRLVd4xi3ra8PoNh0&gclid=EAIaIQobChMImq-K1Ke19AIV_GxvBB3NMwpyEAQYASABEgJLMPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds)
Walmart had the table on sale for $153.90 right now
Walmart had the table on sale for $153.90 right now
Been the same price since I posted it Tuesday. Mine just came in today like 10 minutes ago.
Next project is to disect it next weekend.
Don't know why they don't just make these with decent SSC to save us all the trouble. Would sell much better I would think.
I actually didn’t mind the DIY project. I’d be afraid if they upgraded felt the price would skyrocket.
Don't know why they don't just make these with decent SSC to save us all the trouble. Would sell much better I would think.
Not only would that increase price, but if something happens during delivery and their cheap tablecloth rips, well, I won't care cause I am replacing it anyway. If SSC ripped, now there is a problem.
ESPN version is on sale for $188 at walmart.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/ESPN-10-...TnJp_fuj1saHz1EITzEaAg7qEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds (https://www.walmart.com/ip/ESPN-10-Player-Premium-Foldable-Poker-Table-In-Laid-LED-Lights-Gray/172140278?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&&adid=22222222227100798991&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=217473965734&wl4=aud-1028050746458:pla-351002277529&wl5=9031295&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=online&wl12=172140278&veh=sem&gclid=Cj0KCQiAkZKNBhDiARIsAPsk0Wh1aMsfgpgVYYcCy5bYkA7Ir8yqaQGTUU9uTnJp_fuj1saHz1EITzEaAg7qEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds)
ESPN version is on sale for $188 at walmart.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/ESPN-10-...TnJp_fuj1saHz1EITzEaAg7qEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds (https://www.walmart.com/ip/ESPN-10-Player-Premium-Foldable-Poker-Table-In-Laid-LED-Lights-Gray/172140278?wmlspartner=wlpa&selectedSellerId=0&&adid=22222222227100798991&wl0=&wl1=g&wl2=c&wl3=217473965734&wl4=aud-1028050746458:pla-351002277529&wl5=9031295&wl6=&wl7=&wl8=&wl9=pla&wl10=8175035&wl11=online&wl12=172140278&veh=sem&gclid=Cj0KCQiAkZKNBhDiARIsAPsk0Wh1aMsfgpgVYYcCy5bYkA7Ir8yqaQGTUU9uTnJp_fuj1saHz1EITzEaAg7qEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds)
Nice! Which table do people generally prefer? I’ve heard these lights can be too bright
Nice! Which table do people generally prefer? I’ve heard these lights can be too bright
I think they're all constructed the same so I'd imagine it's just a preference for the lights or color scheme I guess
Does anyone know if the cup holders on the ESPN table are deeper than the normal barrington?
Does anyone know if the cup holders on the ESPN table are deeper than the normal barrington?
I don't believe so. Should be the same depth.
I don't believe so. Should be the same depth.
Thanks. The description on the website said “deep” - got my hopes up
Bought a Barrington table on Black Friday, hopefully, I will be joining the refelting club soon! :cool
Has anyone tried to make a commit line using an iron on vinyl? If so, how'd it turn out for you?
So I don't have any pics yet but my hole saw jumped on me out of one of the holes and put some idiot marks on my rail. Any of you guys had success recovering the rail at all? If so what materials and any "how to" instructions would be great lol.
Also, couple of things. My cup holders seem slightly loose in the hole. Could just be a slightly different cup or my hole saw might have made the hole slightly wider, either way, any suggestions on how to fix that? My initial plan is to just throw a couple wraps of like duck tape around the cup holder to add some girth.
My rails in a couple places the screws were stripped at the factory it seems. When I went to unscrew them they wouldn't come out of the hole. Anyone had any luck using larger or longer screws? Not sure which is the better option.
Has anyone tried to make a commit line using an iron on vinyl? If so, how'd it turn out for you?
So I tried to use an iron on for some scrap pieces I have. It will melt the foam underneath even on the lowest setting. I do not advise.
So I don't have any pics yet but my hole saw jumped on me out of one of the holes and put some idiot marks on my rail. Any of you guys had success recovering the rail at all? If so what materials and any "how to" instructions would be great lol.
Also, couple of things. My cup holders seem slightly loose in the hole. Could just be a slightly different cup or my hole saw might have made the hole slightly wider, either way, any suggestions on how to fix that? My initial plan is to just throw a couple wraps of like duck tape around the cup holder to add some girth.
My rails in a couple places the screws were stripped at the factory it seems. When I went to unscrew them they wouldn't come out of the hole. Anyone had any luck using larger or longer screws? Not sure which is the better option.
For the cup holders, I applied a religious amount of hot glue on the underside of the table, attempting to get some up between the cup holder and the bottom piece of wood/table.
Wrapping the cup holders in tape would also work and maybe be a bit less messy (I absolutely got hot glue on my forehead…)
For rail screws, I had a few that stripped out and then a few of the hinge screws that had the same thing happen. Went up to a slightly larger in diameter screw and didn’t have an issue. Pre-drill a small hole in the back side of the rail though so that the screw catches and pulls through.
My cup holders seem slightly loose in the hole. Could just be a slightly different cup or my hole saw might have made the hole slightly wider, either way, any suggestions on how to fix that? My initial plan is to just throw a couple wraps of like duck tape around the cup holder to add some girth.
When I refelted, I didn't completely cut out the new felt over the cup holder hole. Just made an "X" cut, the excess felt in the hole snugged up the cup holders quite well.
When I refelted, I didn't completely cut out the new felt over the cup holder hole. Just made an "X" cut, the excess felt in the hole snugged up the cup holders quite well.
I did the same but I think my holes and cup holders I got might be slightly different in size. I went with some cheap ones on eBay (https://www.ebay.com/?mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&siteid=0&campid=5338995683&customid=&toolid=10001&mkevt=1). I'm gonna get it back out tomorrow so I can take pics of my finished product and put some tape around the cup holders to add some girth lol.
I do need to figure out about recovering the rail to fix my idiot mark.
I was able to keep the legs attached when I upgraded mine…may have saved me some time, idk. I put in a new pad too, but no pics of that I guess.
I'm curious how big of a difference the new hinge makes in strength? Is it pretty noticeable?
I was able to keep the legs attached when I upgraded mine…may have saved me some time, idk. I put in a new pad too, but no pics of that I guess.
View attachment 824938 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/824938/)
I'm curious how big of a difference the new hinge makes in strength? Is it pretty noticeable?
Yes, very noticeable. Huge improvement and highly recommended.
Thanks. Toying with the idea of making some custom rails down the road so it would be 1 piece on each side instead of 3. Would make them taller with better cup holders also.
Any problem removing the cupholders when removing the borders? Mine are glued down quite strongly. How did you remove yours?
Any problem removing the cupholders when removing the borders? Mine are glued down quite strongly. How did you remove yours?
Use a heat gun (hell you could probably use the wife's hair dryer) on the cup holders.
Any problem removing the cupholders when removing the borders? Mine are glued down quite strongly. How did you remove yours?
Yeah, hair dryer takes the cup holders out easily after about 10 secs of heat.
Yeah, hair dryer takes the cup holders out easily after about 10 secs of heat.
Exactly. Aim the hair dryer directly into the cup holder and then while you’re doing that use a screwdriver underneath the cup holder to start prying it up. After about 30 seconds of the hair dryer will start to come up easy.
Fun pro tip: if you decide to replace the cup holders, the old ones make wonderful little targets for a .22 or BB gun. Fun for the whole family!
Are they still selling these tables? I haven’t seen them lately.
Are they still selling these tables? I haven’t seen them lately.
they do sell these tables but they are expensive you have to wait till u can catch them on sale like they had the espn on walmart maybe a month - 1.5months ago it was like $190 now its $400 lol
No use to me as the shipping costs would be mental but this might be worthwhile for you guys…
I was able to keep the legs attached when I upgraded mine…may have saved me some time, idk. I put in a new pad too, but no pics of that I guess.
View attachment 824935 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/824935/)View attachment 824936 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/824936/)View attachment 824937 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/824937/)View attachment 824938 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/824938/)View attachment 824939 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/824939/)
Nice! Can you share the link to the hinge, please?
Nice! Can you share the link to the hinge, please?
Looks like it’s outta stock now, but I got this one for $22.32:
Small Parts Stainless Steel Continuous Hinge with Holes, Polished Finish, 3' Length, 1-1/2" Width, 0.060" Leaf Thickness (Pack of 1) (3-0635-0727) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005J0JNT...abc_J4WASCNQPJND2NC3JN9D?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1 (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005J0JNT0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_J4WASCNQPJND2NC3JN9D?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&tag=amznpcfx-20)
No use to me as the shipping costs would be mental but this might be worthwhile for you guys…
View attachment 842057 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/842057/)
$99 with free shipping…seems too good to be true…but a helluva deal!
No use to me as the shipping costs would be mental but this might be worthwhile for you guys…
View attachment 842057 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/842057/)
that website just reeks of scam. but hey, i guess if you're willing to try with a credit card and request a chargeback if you get screwed.
that website just reeks of scam. but hey, i guess if you're willing to try with a credit card and request a chargeback if you get screwed.
It popped up when I was looking at Facebook marketplace as a sponsor. Not that it means it’s genuine or safe.
Yeah, I'd encourage everyone to steer wayyyy clear of that site with the $99 table. A cursory google search of their domain name led me to another site with more of the same items, but completely and unabashedly pretending to be Costco's website. Major scam nonsense going on there.
only just saw this thread.. really didnt like the original barrington felt so credit for repurposing this with suited speed cloth. looks pretty good!
I was hoping to pick up a Barrington or ESPN table but most things are I see are minimum of $270 now. Walmart has the ESPN table for 270 according to their website.
Also - maybe this should be another topic, but speed cloth.... Adam Savage's build of his table referred to using Pool Table cloth for the felt. I used to be a pretty avid pool player - we call it 'cloth' not 'felt'. So Adam made me think he was using Simonis (or a competitor like Granito). Of course it doesn't have the card suits in it. I can get my hands on Simonis 860 from a friend who re-covers tables but it's pretty expensive. Have you guys ever tried pool table cloth?
Honestly the work you guys have shown here look great and I'd probably just stick with that. I really appreciate all the time and effort it takes for you all to post pictures and lists of what you did. Super helpful.
If you have thoughts on where to find a table cheaper than walmart, or about using pool table cloth, feel free to reply!
Thanks!
I'm also curious if anyone has found any of these for less than 250 or so in the last months. Seems like all the Barrington listings are in the 400s now which is pretty crazy. ESPN table for 270 seems to be the best price at the moment.
Yep, we got the ESPN table last week from walmart and it was delivered in 2 days. Cheapest we could find.
I have Simonis 860 cloth on my pool table downstairs and it does not compare to suited speed cloth when talking card glide. It is badass pool table cloth though.
Also - maybe this should be another topic, but speed cloth.... Adam Savage's build of his table referred to using Pool Table cloth for the felt. I used to be a pretty avid pool player - we call it 'cloth' not 'felt'. So Adam made me think he was using Simonis (or a competitor like Granito). Of course it doesn't have the card suits in it. I can get my hands on Simonis 860 from a friend who re-covers tables but it's pretty expensive. Have you guys ever tried pool table cloth?
I used pool table cloth on a build once just because I had some. Granted it probably wasn't a high end brand, but from that experience, I do not recommend it for poker. If you don't like speed cloth (some people don't, but I personally don't understand why - it just feels right for cards), there are still better options. Pool table cloth is ideal for pool tables.
However, I have a friend who re-felted an old octagon with some random cheap felt he found at the fabric store, and it pilled so quickly it was absolutely impossible to deal on within a few games. Pool table felt is definitely better than that!
Thanks for the thoughts on pool table cloth! I'll just stick with the cloth you guys have tried and liked.
I was looking again for tables and hit this website that seemed a little shady, but no harm in me sending an email:
https://www.yoybuy.com/pd/3HEwfHQBglQUd0j4AbVM.html
I told them I'd be interested in 10 tables to see if they can get me a wholesaler price. Unfortunately no response and it's been a couple of days.
Not sure what the point of that site is.
I thought, if we could get a few of us together, maybe we could get like 10 tables at wholesale and order all the parts to do the customary upgrades. Then we meet at some central spot for a weekend and upgrade them and everybody takes one or two home. Sounds kinda fun.
What is the right size hole saw for the deeper D Vinci cup holders that were posted here? Is it 2.75 in?
Re-re-felted and re-padded my table with the new, and limited, reverse midnight navy SSC! (Before and after)
Wonder if these tables are ever going to come back in stock on Walmart.
Wonder if these tables are ever going to come back in stock on Walmart.
They do. They come and go and the price moves accordingly. I actually saw them for $160ish not too long ago.
They do. They come and go and the price moves accordingly. I actually saw them for $160ish not too long ago.
Ahh, guess I'll need to check more often - they've been showing out of stock every time I look every few weeks.
Re-re-felted and re-padded my table with the new, and limited, reverse midnight navy SSC! (Before and after)
View attachment 870860 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/870860/)
View attachment 870861 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/870861/)
How did you get the betting line?
How did you get the betting line?
Right? I’ve often wanted to put one on my speedcloth, but I don’t have the guts
How did you get the betting line?
Right? I’ve often wanted to put one on my speedcloth, but I don’t have the guts
Permanent marker, masking tape, long straight edge, and a lot of measuring...
I start with the lines parallel to the long rail, then use my ruler as a jig to create the semi-circles at the ends. Masking tape keeps the lines neat when you join the semi-circles to the parallel line.
Permanent marker, masking tape, long straight edge, and a lot of measuring...
I start with the lines parallel to the long rail, then use my ruler as a jig to create the semi-circles at the ends. Masking tape keeps the lines neat when you join the semi-circles to the parallel line.
Great work!
Did anyone else have this issue with their table out of the box? Seems like flimsy screws or they drilled the holes too wide.
View attachment 199359 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/199359/)View attachment 199360 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/199360/)View attachment 199361 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/199361/)
Wow, I did not have issues like that. My only problem has been chipping due to it standing on the flat side.
Did anyone else have this issue with their table out of the box? Seems like flimsy screws or they drilled the holes too wide.
View attachment 199359 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/199359/)View attachment 199360 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/199360/)View attachment 199361 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/199361/)
No issues like that, just chipping from standing during storage.
Permanent marker, masking tape, long straight edge, and a lot of measuring...
I start with the lines parallel to the long rail, then use my ruler as a jig to create the semi-circles at the ends. Masking tape keeps the lines neat when you join the semi-circles to the parallel line.
Can we see a closeup pic of the line?
Can we see a closeup pic of the line?
World…. Why are you - the way that you are….?
Adding a betting line, day one. Thanks to @JRald07 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/8077/) for the inspiration and tips.
I put a pin in the felt 8.5” from the rail to line things up. Worked on some geometry with @SJFCPK18 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/8241/) to land on the correct radius and “live bet” area.
The high point of the day was fashioning a compass with a set of pliers, putting a pin in one end and the felt marker in the other to make tracing the arc easier!
Hoping to finish up over the weekend!
Good news: compass worked great! I traced out the full line and really liked it!
Bad news: the marker ran out so now I’ll have to get another and re-trace the whole thing, which invites more opportunities for error.
(https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/0b9bd6df-268e-4479-b273-3a9d4e506ec1-jpeg.877846/)
) (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/009902a5-f182-4455-9a38-b634f33dfb24-jpeg.877848/)
Good news: compass worked great! I traced out the full line and really liked it!
Bad news: the marker ran out so now I’ll have to get another and re-trace the whole thing, which invites more opportunities for error.
View attachment 877845 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/877845/)View attachment 877847 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/877847/)View attachment 877846 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/877846/)View attachment 877848 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/877848/)
Looking good!!
All done and I love how this turned out! The marker I used was $4.50 at Walmart. I bought 2 since the first one ran out over the weekend (different brand & store), but one did the trick with plenty to spare. Thanks for the inspiration and pointers @JRald07 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/8077/)!
Ready to host a game this weekend, nearly two years since I was planning to host and COVID shut the whole world down.
(Also sneak peek at the Ugly Bicycle Cardroom (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/introducing-the-ugly-bicycle-cardroom.86080/) set, which will get felted for the first time)
Could you have just cut a stick to 8.5 inches, put one end against the rail, put a pen on the other end, and just push the stick all the way around the table, following the rail? I guess you'd have to be careful to always keep he stick straight out at a 90 degree angle, but wouldn't that work?
Could you have just cut a stick to 8.5 inches, put one end against the rail, put a pen on the other end, and just push the stick all the way around the table, following the rail? I guess you'd have to be careful to always keep he stick straight out at a 90 degree angle, but wouldn't that work?
I measured 8.5” from the rail and put pins in the felt - I wasn’t exactly sure how the shape of the live bet area would turn out/be centered, and you really only get one chance to put the fabric paint on.
I think the arcs at the end would be the most difficult to do with your proposed stick method. Possible, I think, but I’m happy with the process I went through, deliberate/tedious as it may have been.
I had the pins, then lightly traced the line with the compass, then traced that line with the “final” fabric marker, then touched up a few spots.
Has anyone every considered the shuffle tech flush mount on a Barrington? would there be enough space with the folding legs?
Has anyone every considered the shuffle tech flush mount on a Barrington? would there be enough space with the folding legs?
You would have to take the shuffler out to fold up the table. At that point just mount the shuffler in a side cart.
Could you have just cut a stick to 8.5 inches, put one end against the rail, put a pen on the other end, and just push the stick all the way around the table, following the rail? I guess you'd have to be careful to always keep he stick straight out at a 90 degree angle, but wouldn't that work?
I think that's a disaster waiting to happen. Might work, or might end up looking like crap. Why chance it.
Has anyone every considered the shuffle tech flush mount on a Barrington? would there be enough space with the folding legs?
I've thought about it as I never fold mine up but eventually decided against an $800 shuffler in a $150 table for now.
You would have to take the shuffler out to fold up the table. At that point just mount the shuffler in a side cart.
I get that. But if it’s folded, I’m not using it so removing the shuffler would be fine. Seems very removable
I've thought about it as I never fold mine up but eventually decided against an $800 shuffler in a $150 table for now.
I’ve never not been tempted to put an expensive stereo in a beater.
I get that. But if it’s folded, I’m not using it so removing the shuffler would be fine. Seems very removable
The more unnecessary handling of something, the more it can break.
IMG_20200605_191921.jpg (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/media/img_20200605_191921-jpg.19156/)
Media owner tabletalker7 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/tabletalker7.6127/)
Date added Jun 6, 2020
IMG_20200606_155635.jpg (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/media/img_20200606_155635-jpg.19157/)
Media owner tabletalker7 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/tabletalker7.6127/)
Date added Jun 6, 2020
A side cart is too easy and too helpful.
The more unnecessary handling of something, the more it can break.
IMG_20200605_191921.jpg (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/media/img_20200605_191921-jpg.19156/)
Media owner tabletalker7 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/tabletalker7.6127/)
Date added Jun 6, 2020
IMG_20200606_155635.jpg (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/media/img_20200606_155635-jpg.19157/)
Media owner tabletalker7 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/tabletalker7.6127/)
Date added Jun 6, 2020
A side cart is too easy and too helpful.
What size cabinet is that? Seems like it would fit everything I need perfectly!
What size cabinet is that? Seems like it would fit everything I need perfectly!
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Hampton...itchen-Cabinet-in-Beech-KW1530-UFDF/306576957 (https://www.homedepot.com/p/Hampton-Bay-Hampton-Unfinished-Assembled-15x30x12-in-Wall-Kitchen-Cabinet-in-Beech-KW1530-UFDF/306576957)
I put 2 inch casters on the bottom so it will roll around easy.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Hampton...itchen-Cabinet-in-Beech-KW1530-UFDF/306576957 (https://www.homedepot.com/p/Hampton-Bay-Hampton-Unfinished-Assembled-15x30x12-in-Wall-Kitchen-Cabinet-in-Beech-KW1530-UFDF/306576957)
I put 2 inch casters on the bottom so it will roll around easy.
I misread bottom as button. And that seems like a great idea too.
The more unnecessary handling of something, the more it can break.
IMG_20200605_191921.jpg (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/media/img_20200605_191921-jpg.19156/)
Media owner tabletalker7 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/tabletalker7.6127/)
Date added Jun 6, 2020
IMG_20200606_155635.jpg (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/media/img_20200606_155635-jpg.19157/)
Media owner tabletalker7 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/tabletalker7.6127/)
Date added Jun 6, 2020
A side cart is too easy and too helpful.
Damn it, now I need one of these.
Damn it, now I need one of these.
Be warned. It only comes with one shelf. I cut a second one out of lumber I had left over from other crap I was doing at the time.
Be warned. It only comes with one shelf. I cut a second one out of lumber I had left over from other crap I was doing at the time.
I have grand visions in my head of making a much smaller version of my cabinet, with a cutout for the shuffler, so that they match.
"But honey it's not to hold more chips, it's to make it quicker to shuffle cards so I can get the players out of our apartment faster!"
I have grand visions in my head of making a much smaller version of my cabinet, with a cutout for the shuffler, so that they match.
View attachment 879138 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/879138/)
"But honey it's not to hold more chips, it's to make it quicker to shuffle cards so I can get the players out of our apartment faster!"
Getting off topic from Barrington posts, but I bet @alecnetwoodworks (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/8124/) could make a BANGER cabinet with wheels, removable drawers, and house a shuffler. @TX_Golf_N_Poker (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/7867/)
Getting off topic from Barrington posts, but I bet @alecnetwoodworks (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/8124/) could make a BANGER cabinet with wheels, removable drawers, and house a shuffler. @TX_Golf_N_Poker (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/7867/)
Yes, I'm sure Alec could make one, but @rjdev7 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/1014/) is quite capable also. I'd love to see Ryan build a shuffler cabinet to match his chip cabinet.
I’m waiting for my ESPN table to be delivered, and am hoping to get some insight from someone with experience modding that version.
I have a game coming up this weekend so I don’t have time to replace the felt yet, but would love to tackle a couple easier mods ASAP before the first game.
Cupholders
I plan on using a hair dryer to remove the cupholders, then using a hole saw (without removing the rail) to cut holes for the deeper cupholders (those Da Vinci cupholders from the Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/?tag=amznpcfx-20) links in this thread, to be exact)
Is this process any different for the ESPN table, since it has the LEDs and a slightly different rail? Or can I just remove the stock cupholders, drill a deeper hole with the hole saw and drop the new cupholders in like others have discussed for the non-ESPN version?
LED Diffuser
Any ideas on a cheap and/or easy way to diffuse the lights, without much cutting/modification? I’m terribly un-handy, and am nervous about messing up the table/rail.
I saw someone mention hot glue sticks, but couldn’t find any photos of that. Any other cheap/easy diffusers that work for the ESPN table?
I’m waiting for my ESPN table to be delivered, and am hoping to get some insight from someone with experience modding that version.
I have a game coming up this weekend so I don’t have time to replace the felt yet, but would love to tackle a couple easier mods ASAP before the first game.
Cupholders
I plan on using a hair dryer to remove the cupholders, then using a hole saw (without removing the rail) to cut holes for the deeper cupholders (those Da Vinci cupholders from the Amazon links in this thread, to be exact)
Is this process any different for the ESPN table, since it has the LEDs and a slightly different rail? Or can I just remove the stock cupholders, drill a deeper hole with the hole saw and drop the new cupholders in like others have discussed for the non-ESPN version?
LED Diffuser
Any ideas on a cheap and/or easy way to diffuse the lights, without much cutting/modification? I’m terribly un-handy, and am nervous about messing up the table/rail.
I saw someone mention hot glue sticks, but couldn’t find any photos of that. Any other cheap/easy diffusers that work for the ESPN table?
Where’d you get your espn?
Where’d you get your espn?
Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/?tag=amznpcfx-20). It dropped down to $250ish for like 5 minutes so I grabbed it, then it was immediately back up to $400.
I've been looking at craigslist, FB Marketplace, Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/?tag=amznpcfx-20), etc... for over a month and that felt like the best deal I could find knowing it could be modded pretty easily.
HELP.....
anyone that has done the modifications on one of the Barrington tables, DID YOU ADD NEW PADDING, if you did what did you use?
thanks
HELP.....
anyone that has done the modifications on one of the Barrington tables, DID YOU ADD NEW PADDING, if you did what did you use?
thanks
Yes! My first time I used 1/4" ensolite from foambymail
2nd and last time I did it, I got 1/3" open cell from TPS. Highly recommend!
Yes! My first time I used 1/4" ensolite from foambymail
2nd and last time I did it, I got 1/3" open cell from TPS. Highly recommend!
@RowlettTexasChipGuy (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/8118/) Correction: yourautotrim is where I got the 1/3" foam from
HELP.....
anyone that has done the modifications on one of the Barrington tables, DID YOU ADD NEW PADDING, if you did what did you use?
thanks
I got 1/4" closed cell foam on Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/?tag=amznpcfx-20). Worked great. Just remember to cut the foam where the rails attach.
HELP.....
anyone that has done the modifications on one of the Barrington tables, DID YOU ADD NEW PADDING, if you did what did you use?
thanks
I did the close cell foam with a thin neoprene pad over it.
HELP.....
anyone that has done the modifications on one of the Barrington tables, DID YOU ADD NEW PADDING, if you did what did you use?
thanks
I put my speedcloth directly over the old felt when I redid the table.
HELP.....
anyone that has done the modifications on one of the Barrington tables, DID YOU ADD NEW PADDING, if you did what did you use?
thanks
I also did 1/4” gym rubber from foambymail…I wish it was a little softer…and I wish I could use slide under cup holders with it. But it was a HUGE upgrade from stock and everyone loves it.
HELP.....
anyone that has done the modifications on one of the Barrington tables, DID YOU ADD NEW PADDING, if you did what did you use?
thanks
i did not, but if i did it again i would. the stock padding is fine i guess, but could be much better.
Does anyone make a topper or mat that fits right onto the barrington table dimensions instead of changing out the cloth?
Does anyone make a topper or mat that fits right onto the barrington table dimensions instead of changing out the cloth?
I've seen them as group buys here (like this one (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/super-poker-world-mario-themed-table-topper.77698/)), but I'm not sure if there is a "stock" topper that fits. The PCF topper doesn't fit exactly right, for example.
Does anyone make a topper or mat that fits right onto the barrington table dimensions instead of changing out the cloth?
https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/pre-order-custom-table-toppers.87826/
HELP.....
anyone that has done the modifications on one of the Barrington tables, DID YOU ADD NEW PADDING, if you did what did you use?
thanks
I've refitted two folding tables so far, on each I've used this to replace the existing padding, and been quite pleased with the results.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076XNL217 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076XNL217?tag=amznpcfx-20)
See my posts earlier in this thread for photos of the two I've done. Last fall I picked another one up when Wally World had a sale, and will refit it this summer.
https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/pre-order-custom-table-toppers.87826/
Thank you! They look like great options
Check it out, I built a new folding table in the same dimensions as a Barrington, but with a few improvements:
6 inch rail
Jumbo brass cup holders
Whisper vinyl
Foam playing surface
1/4” raised rail so the barrington sized table toppers I started selling fit so the edges tuck underneath the rails giving it the appearance of a fully installed felt surface
Just need to add the hinges and the legs and we’re good to go!
Check it out, I built a new folding table in the same dimensions as a Barrington, but with a few improvements:
6 inch rail
Jumbo brass cup holders
Whisper vinyl
Foam playing surface
1/4” raised rail so the barrington sized table toppers I started selling fit so the edges tuck underneath the rails giving it the appearance of a fully installed felt surface
View attachment 893757 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/893757/)
View attachment 893758 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/893758/)
Just need to add the hinges and the legs and we’re good to go!
That looks amazing!
Check it out, I built a new folding table in the same dimensions as a Barrington, but with a few improvements:
6 inch rail
Jumbo brass cup holders
Whisper vinyl
Foam playing surface
1/4” raised rail so the barrington sized table toppers I started selling fit so the edges tuck underneath the rails giving it the appearance of a fully installed felt surface
View attachment 893757 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/893757/)
View attachment 893758 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/893758/)
Just need to add the hinges and the legs and we’re good to go!
I need the plans / progress pics of that build, looks amazing. Also how do you get your felt so flat? My Mario one still has so many wrinkles.
I need the plans / progress pics of that build, looks amazing. Also how do you get your felt so flat? My Mario one still has so many wrinkles.
Unfortunately didn’t take many progress pics this time, but I do have the plans I could share.
To flatten the table toppers I do this:
reverse roll the mat tightly so that the outside of the roll is the back/rubbery part of the mat. Put like 5 rubber bands around it and leave it rolled like that for a week.
roll out the topper and put a towel or sheet over it if there are still wrinkles and use a medium temperature iron on it with no steam.
That worked for me
Unfortunately didn’t take many progress pics this time, but I do have the plans I could share.
To flatten the table toppers I do this:
reverse roll the mat tightly so that the outside of the roll is the back/rubbery part of the mat. Put like 5 rubber bands around it and leave it rolled like that for a week.
roll out the topper and put a towel or sheet over it if there are still wrinkles and use a medium temperature iron on it with no steam.
That worked for me
Would definitely take plans if you have them - and good idea on the iron, I'll give that a shot in a few weeks.
Unfortunately didn’t take many progress pics this time, but I do have the plans I could share.
To flatten the table toppers I do this:
reverse roll the mat tightly so that the outside of the roll is the back/rubbery part of the mat. Put like 5 rubber bands around it and leave it rolled like that for a week.
roll out the topper and put a towel or sheet over it if there are still wrinkles and use a medium temperature iron on it with no steam.
That worked for me
I’d be interested in the plans too. Would gorilla gaming legs work on a table that folds like this? Could you put a speedcloth base down with a seam in the middle and the topper over it? Like the topper could be the main playing surface but if you needed a second table just remove the topper for that and play on the felt beneath?
Gorilla gaming legs won’t work on tables that fold in the middle like mine. They require a solid single piece. I ended up finding an old super heavy banquet table and used the legs from that. Then I got some hinges on Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/?tag=amznpcfx-20) that only go 180 degrees:
Antrader 4Pcs Heavy Duty Sewing... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B081VDL94B?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B081VDL94B?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share&tag=amznpcfx-20)
Not sure if the hinges will hold up long term so I may explore getting one more leg for the middle of the table to help support them and prevent it from sagging.
You could definitely put speed cloth down first and still use the toppers.
https://www.facebook.com/commerce/products/5216597668398077/
Shipping is more than the table :ROFL: :ROFLMAO: :ROFL: :ROFLMAO:
Shipping is more than the table :ROFL: :ROFLMAO: :ROFL: :ROFLMAO:
Didn’t see that yikes
Probably a dumb question, but has anyone tried buying cup holder inserts for the cup holders rather than the DIY replacements in this thread?
Probably a dumb question, but has anyone tried buying cup holder inserts for the cup holders rather than the DIY replacements in this thread?
Good idea. Just might not look as clean
Unfortunately didn’t take many progress pics this time, but I do have the plans I could share.
Can you shoot the plans over?
The glue they use is stronger than the Hulk and will take pieces/layers of compressed wood with it. I got a tiny crack in the first rail using my hands alone, the rest of them I lined up a paint scraper between the cupholder/wood (right where the glue is), got a hammer, and literally chiseled it Through. Saved the railpieces and some of the wood for sure.
I got my SSC on Amazon (does the trick in spades) but a lot of people swear by YourAutoTrim
For the foam,see post 306 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/barrington-poker-table-thread.30910/page-11#post-1166152) I swear by neoprene and got a perfect sized piece from a great eBay vendor
Yes incredibly easy no effort required to remove the crappy Barrington foam
How did you guys go about laying your new foam to make sure it's inside the rail but there isn't a huge gap between the rail and the padded playing surface?
I used a pipe cutter at 4 locations to shorten it where the deeper cupholders will go. Maybe an inch on each side.
Does anyone have an exact measurement on this cut? I don't see one in the threads and am about there on my table. Would be nice to have so I can cut with the legs off the table.
If not, I'll get the measurement and post it here when I do it later this week.
Anyone know of a good cover to protect this while it's folded up, especially in transport?
Got one of these and it fits perfectly.
Handheld World Poker Table Bag for Folding Poker Table Storage or Carry, Poker Table Cover 600D Heavy Duty Oxford Fabric Poker Table Accessories Black https://a.co/d/4c5iZa6 (https://a.co/d/4c5iZa6?tag=amznpcfx-20)
Does anyone have an exact measurement on this cut? I don't see one in the threads and am about there on my table. Would be nice to have so I can cut with the legs off the table.
If not, I'll get the measurement and post it here when I do it later this week.
1 inch seems to work just fine. I took mine in to about 1 1/4.
I just wanted to thank all the contributors to this thread. I bought the brown Barrington last year used for $100 from offer up and the felt and foam were terrible from day one and have only gotten worse. After our monthly neighborhood game last weekend, I decided I would not play another hand on that crappy loose surface. Searching for replacement techniques led me to this forum and thread which I am now registered.
I spent the day reading everything and ordering. I have midnight blue suited speed cloth and new Volara foam coming from TPS along with the deeper cupholders from Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/?tag=amznpcfx-20). I tore the table apart this evening and will get it all done once the purchases show up.
If I am able to post pictures when done, I will but just wanted to say what a great help you all have been with your guides, photos, and links in this thread!
I just wanted to thank all the contributors to this thread. I bought the brown Barrington last year used for $100 from offer up and the felt and foam were terrible from day one and have only gotten worse. After our monthly neighborhood game last weekend, I decided I would not play another hand on that crappy loose surface. Searching for replacement techniques led me to this forum and thread which I am now registered.
I spent the day reading everything and ordering. I have midnight blue suited speed cloth and new Volara foam coming from TPS along with the deeper cupholders from Amazon. I tore the table apart this evening and will get it all done once the purchases show up.
If I am able to post pictures when done, I will but just wanted to say what a great help you all have been with your guides, photos, and links in this thread!
Welcome - this is exactly how I got started here as well. Good luck with finishing the table.
I’ve never owned a folding table, but I have certainly played on them. The seam down the middle tilts me, and as these tables age often becomes a point where cards stick.
If I did have one, I would probably make a roll-up insert that fit snugly within the table’s interior dimensions (i.e, one piece from rail-to-rail).
Since the table is already padded, this could just be speedcloth or felt adhered to a thin piece of foam. That way you bridge the seam, without making the rail too much more shallow.
Anyone done this?
UPDATE: I see that at least one of you has done this for a non-Barrington folding table:
https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/barrington-poker-table-thread.30910/post-1814589
I’ve never owned a folding table, but I have certainly played on them. The seam down the middle tilts me, and as these tables age often becomes a point where cards stick.
If I did have one, I would probably make a roll-up insert that fit snugly within the table’s interior dimensions (i.e, one piece from rail-to-rail).
Since the table is already padded, this could just be speedcloth or felt adhered to a thin piece of foam. That way you bridge the seam, without making the rail too much more shallow.
Anyone done this?
UPDATE: I see that at least one of you has done this for a non-Barrington folding table:
https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/barrington-poker-table-thread.30910/post-1814589
People here have done group buys for Barrington table sized mats.
https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/pre-order-custom-table-toppers.87826/
People here have done group buys for Barrington table sized mats.
https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/pre-order-custom-table-toppers.87826/
This is the easy, no fuss solution. A fitted mat.
I'm surprised none of the buyers from that GB have posted pics in here yet...
This is the easy, no fuss solution. A fitted mat.
I'm surprised none of the buyers from that GB have posted pics in here yet...
Better solution. You can refelt and replace the foam by just removing the rails. One piece closed cell volara for the whole table and refelt it whole. Granted it wont fold up again but no more seam.
Better solution. You can reflect and replace the foam by just removing the rails. One piece closed cell volara for the whole table and refelt it whole. Granted it wont fold up again but no more seam.
But being able to fold the table is essential if you need it to be portable. I love having the topper to get rid of the fold, and in a pinch I can use the toppers alone on another table if I don't bring the whole table.
Better solution. You can refelt and replace the foam by just removing the rails. One piece closed cell volara for the whole table and refelt it whole. Granted it wont fold up again but no more seam.
I've played many games on a folded table. (Pit Boss brand). The fold in the middle is just a cosmetic thing really. We have never had a card get stopped from that seam. But yet, no seam > than having a seam. I personally must have my table be portable. The topper is a nice option.
Better solution. You can refelt and replace the foam by just removing the rails. One piece closed cell volara for the whole table and refelt it whole. Granted it wont fold up again but no more seam.
that largely defeats the purpose of buying a folding table. i need to be able to fit mine in a closet when not in use.
the seam is obviously not cosmetically ideal, but it has never been a problem functionally for me.
ok, it seems my games are back... so that means i should probably make some barrington upgrades ive been putting off. i already have new felt from @T_Chan (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/71/) and have the rubber to replace the mat. here are my questions ive probably asked before.
replacing the rubber mat, what am i using for glue?
when i replaced the felt last time, it seemed screwing the rails back in some of the wood was holes got too big. I read that its best to use plastic wood to fix this?
any general tips installing felt from @T_Chan (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/71/) ?
its been some years since I did this, so not sure if people have any addition tips/tricks. especially for the new mat since I havent done that before.
thanks!
Cut the mat to end at the start of the rail. You can't get the rails back on right if you have the mat under them
The ESPN version dropped under 300 on amazon (https://www.amazon.com/?tag=amznpcfx-20) recently. Looks like you can get it for 275 shipped right now.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08TN1Y6M9 (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08TN1Y6M9?tag=amznpcfx-20)
Well, most of the stuff I ordered to redo my table showed up and I got the majority of it done today when I got home from work. I did not take any before pictures. You all know what the brown Barrington table looks like.. so imagine that, but a lot worse. The foam and felt were bubbled and wrinkled up. There were cigarette burns and holes in the felt and foam (previous owner).
Here are a few after putting the new foam and speedcloth on it. My piano hinge has not showed up yet, so I was unable to completely finish, and it is sitting on a makeshift workbench right now. But Ill throw a couple up when it is completely done as well. I am VERY happy with how it turned out. I spent quite a bit of time lining up the cloth at the table fold, and got it pretty close. I did not take a picture of how it lines up as it is sitting high in the middle while on the workbench. Once I have the hinge on it and legs back on, I will show how it lines up better. For a $100 table and another $150 in parts, I am pretty happy with the outcome. Thank you again to everyone in this thread that led the way and shared their experiences.
By the way, drilling out the cup holder holes first was a great idea (forget who suggested that) as then I was able to use those with the cup holders in, to line up the lean pads for marking and cutting the foam, and getting everything lined up easily for screwing it all back down.
The piano hinge showed up today, so I came home from work early and finished the table up. Zero complaints about any of this and thanks to everyone's previous work, it went smoothly and quick.
(https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/20220727_131500-jpg.956433/)
) (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/20220727_131552-jpg.956431/)
) (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/20220727_131608-jpg.956430/)
) (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/20220727_131419-jpg.956434/)
I added some handles as was done previously in this thread and that makes a world of difference moving it around.
(https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/20220727_131513-jpg.956432/)
) (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/20220727_132010-jpg.956429/)
I also bought the bag that someone linked previously in this thread and it fits perfectly in it!! I store my table in one of the sheds in my backyard, so having the bag for it is nice, plus it has handles as well, so carrying it around with the bag is nice.
(https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/20220727_132333-jpg.956428/)
) (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/20220727_132356-jpg.956427/)
Ignore the dead grass in my backyard. Normally everything is lush and green which makes everything look tropical. Unfortunately, we have no water in SoCal so the grass is sacrificed for now.
Ok everyone, I finally got my table finished. The ESPN version. Added blue speed cloth, replaced the LED’s, deep cup holders. On the ESPN version you don’t need to cut the legs due to the added depth from the lights. I don’t think it came out perfect, but I did it alone and in between a lot of work and travel. Having the right tools and space helps, I did it in an extra living room basically which doubles as my home office and catbox area lol. But all in all I’m super happy with the look. I just order a battery to connect the led’s so I don’t have to plug them in. And my wife or maid (one of them but no one is owning up) accidentally threw out the piano hinge so I have to re order it. Thanks to everyone for all the help in this thread!!!
The ESPN version dropped under 300 on amazon recently. Looks like you can get it for 275 shipped right now.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08TN1Y6M9 (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08TN1Y6M9?tag=amznpcfx-20)
Yeah wow, it’s 266 shipped now. Seems like as good a price as I’ve seen lately
Last fall, I found a deal on Walmart's website for the brown Barrington for $200 delivered. I bought it with the intention of refitting it with speed cloth and lights before I ever played a hand on it. Life intervened, and I didn't get a chance to even start the project until this spring. A late decision to add lights caused a further delay, as I had to cut and shape plywood to match the rail pieces.
The lights are meant to go behind a TV, but they worked out beautifully. And they're USB powered, so I don't need a power outlet to have a lit game--a phone recharger battery pack is zip-tied underneath the table and will run the lights for hours on its' own.
I'm rather pleased with how it turned out, and can't wait to get some games going on it.
Here's links to what was used in this project:
Classic Holdem Layout - Dark Blue (Speed Cloth)
https://www.casinosupply.com/products/classic-holdem-layout-dark-blue-1
Navy Blue Marine Vinyl Fabric (to re-cover the rail)
https://www.marinevinylfabric.com/products/marine-vinyl-fabric?variant=13535262086
Volara Closed Cell Foam Poker Table Padding 8' x 58" x 1/8"
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076XNL217 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076XNL217?tag=amznpcfx-20)
LED Strip Lights, Maylit 8.2 ft TV LED Backlight for 40-60 inch TV
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0831MBNC2 (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0831MBNC2?tag=amznpcfx-20)
Muzata 10PACK 3.3FT/1M Flexible Silver LED Channel with Milky White LED Cover Lens Bendable Aluminum for LED Strip
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P8NWBP5 (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P8NWBP5?tag=amznpcfx-20)
Yuanhe Lot of 10 Drop-in Stainless Steel Jumbo Cup Holder
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075R76RRR (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075R76RRR?tag=amznpcfx-20)
Hillman Hardware Essentials 851070 Continuous Pin 36" x 1-1/2" Nickel
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GI26MLK (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GI26MLK?tag=amznpcfx-20)
Last October I was looking for a table. Found a barrington that has minor damage for $180 shipped. Slight tear in the vinyl. Was happy with the table, so were the fishes. We were playing cash, but some of us wanted to started playing tourneys once or twice a month. I came HERE to find a tourney set but while looking , I noticed what people were doing to the very table I had.
I decided on a complete overhaul. I had a 3/4” sheet of ply already, wife works in a foam factory so she had access to ANY type of foam imaginable, they scrap 200 tables worth of foam a night, so I got it free. All I had to do was buy the vinyl, the cup holders, the LEDs and the diffusers. I found the diffusers cheap from a place called TAP plastics. I wanted a cool table, I didn’t need it to fold in the first place, so we’re doing away with that. I set out to make it as sick as possible for as cheap as possible. All I did here was raise the original armrest by 3/4” with a 1 riser. I nailed and glued each individual arm rest section to my riser and wrapped it in black whisper. Stuck my leds to the edge of the riser. Routed a grove in the table with router, stuck the diffusers in there and put it together. Tony Chan sent me this sick ass felt, Thankyou brother! This is my very first table ever, I don’t have wood working skills and don’t have a lot of money but if you’re willing to put in the time and labor you can make a really bad ass table for reasonably cheap.
Also huge shoutout to Bill from pplpokertables, this man let me pick his brain along the way and I appreciate it very much, very nice guy. Btw, again, this was my first table, it’s full of flaws I forgot about the measure twice cut once rule. Also I had issues that I didn’t see coming with the table not being perfectly level on both sides due to it being a folder up. So it’s far from perfect but it Still came out sick and my fish are going to looooooove getting fried on this bad boy. The next once WILL be perfect and also 96”, can’t wait, this was fun!
Last October I was looking for a table. Found a barrington that has minor damage for $180 shipped. Slight tear in the vinyl. Was happy with the table, so were the fishes. We were playing cash, but some of us wanted to started playing tourneys once or twice a month. I came HERE to find a tourney set but while looking , I noticed what people were doing to the very table I had.
I decided on a complete overhaul. I had a 3/4” sheet of ply already, wife works in a foam factory so she had access to ANY type of foam imaginable, they scrap 200 tables worth of foam a night, so I got it free. All I had to do was buy the vinyl, the cup holders, the LEDs and the diffusers. I found the diffusers cheap from a place called TAP plastics. I wanted a cool table, I didn’t need it to fold in the first place, so we’re doing away with that. I set out to make it as sick as possible for as cheap as possible. All I did here was raise the original armrest by 3/4” with a 1 riser. I nailed and glued each individual arm rest section to my riser and wrapped it in black whisper. Stuck my leds to the edge of the riser. Routed a grove in the table with router, stuck the diffusers in there and put it together. Tony Chan sent me this sick ass felt, Thankyou brother! This is my very first table ever, I don’t have wood working skills and don’t have a lot of money but if you’re willing to put in the time and labor you can make a really bad ass table for reasonably cheap.
Also huge shoutout to Bill from pplpokertables, this man let me pick his brain along the way and I appreciate it very much, very nice guy. Btw, again, this was my first table, it’s full of flaws I forgot about the measure twice cut once rule. Also I had issues that I didn’t see coming with the table not being perfectly level on both sides due to it being a folder up. So it’s far from perfect but it Still came out sick and my fish are going to looooooove getting fried on this bad boy. The next once WILL be perfect and also 96”, can’t wait, this was fun!
Well, found my next upgrade.....
The price for these tables now....WOW..crazy
The price for these tables now....WOW..crazy
Yikes. Glad I bought mine when I did.
The price for these tables now....WOW..crazy
Sounds like a new product for Tina (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/glossary/terms/tina.206) and Co.
The brown and ESPN tables have been listed as $299 and out of stock for a while now on Walmarts website. Any thoughts on when/if it’ll be back in stock? And any thought in if we’ll ever see under $150 on these tables?
The brown and ESPN tables have been listed as $299 and out of stock for a while now on Walmarts website. Any thoughts on when/if it’ll be back in stock? And any thought in if we’ll ever see under $150 on these tables?
Found a brand new one on FB for $95 that I picked up for @SJFCPK18 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/8241/) last week :cool
I need to find one of these too, for that sweet craps topper that is en route :)
The brown and ESPN tables have been listed as $299 and out of stock for a while now on Walmarts website. Any thoughts on when/if it’ll be back in stock? And any thought in if we’ll ever see under $150 on these tables?
I highly doubt it, at least not anytime soon. I'd say anything under $275 is a pretty good deal on these right now.
Found a brand new one on FB for $95 that I picked up for @SJFCPK18 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/8241/) last week :cool
Nice. I saw that one and thought about messaging you.
Nice. I saw that one and thought about messaging you.
Much appreciated! Guy lives like 5 blocks away and used to play poker every Friday night with some friends, some of whom have died or moved away. He’s now on my invite list next time I host!
If you can wait, every year they price goes down around Christmas, can't say how low it will go but it will go on sale
Just picked this up on Facebook marketplace for $200, brand new in the box. Kicking myself for not pulling the trigger last Christmas on the brown version for $140. But oh well. Cup holders are the next upgrade.
(https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/cups-png.1015267/)
Well, this guy solved the cupholder problem. LOL
Table for sale near Rahway NJ on Facebook currently. https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/819018869432995/
Someone else saw that Menards is selling Barrington's for 199 if you have one local to you. https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/you-can-get-a-poker-table-at-menards.96954/
https://www.menards.com/main/outdoo...1010/p-10318787590355553-c-37325794246234.htm (https://www.menards.com/main/outdoors/outdoor-recreation-sports/game-room/poker-table/pk100y21010/p-10318787590355553-c-37325794246234.htm)
Thinking about remaking armrests with no cup holders and better foam. Should I make it in two halves or rewrap the sections individually?
FYI someone in the Bronx is selling their Barrington for $100 and they are including 4 black chairs too
https://offerup.com/item/detail/853d394f-8b5f-3edb-9dae-121fdd8835b0?q=poker+table
FYI someone in the Bronx is selling their Barrington for $100 and they are including 4 black chairs too
https://offerup.com/item/detail/853d394f-8b5f-3edb-9dae-121fdd8835b0?q=poker+table
The only type of people...
That can sit on these chairs while playing at this table...
Has anybody installed jumbo cup holders, and have pictures of finished product? Are they too deep to allow table to be folded back up?
I did:
to edge of the rail and not under it. The foam armrests will not sit correctly with larger foam
just to the edge of the table, not into the crease
Photo below...I was sloppy with tucking the vinyl on that rail piece but the foam under the playing surface came out really well
View attachment 499146 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/499146/)
Did you rewrap two halves of railing? Any more pictures/tips as I want to add padding but remove that cup holders
Did you rewrap two halves of railing? Any more pictures/tips as I want to add padding but remove that cup holders
I rewrapped annd refoamed all 6 railing pieces individually. I didn’t bother to fill in cup holders….just foamed over them as if they weren’t there, it turned out fine.
Last tip is to get one of those neoprene toppers, (it’s on my list to acquire before DiD) and it takes the table from good to excellent
Hey ya'll...im looking at buying my first table and I found what looks like a couple year old barrington on the local marketplace for $100... it looks like this type (see link) ...is it worth it for temporary use then to upgrade?
https://www.truegether.com/listing.html?id=USER.1c1cbc51-e7f8-4b1d-ac25-0a03b3b8c6d5
Hey ya'll...im looking at buying my first table and I found what looks like a couple year old barrington on the local marketplace for $100... it looks like this type (see link) ...is it worth it for temporary use then to upgrade?
https://www.truegether.com/listing.html?id=USER.1c1cbc51-e7f8-4b1d-ac25-0a03b3b8c6d5
$100 is a steal based on current pricing.
$380 cheaper on Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/?tag=amznpcfx-20).
https://www.amazon.com/Barrington-Holdem-Players-Padded-Holders/dp/B01KLJTEEW/ref=sr_1_5?crid=21BPZWGX6NHY9&keywords=barrington+poker+table+10+player&qid=1677081590&sprefix=barrington+poker+table,aps,102&sr=8-5 (https://www.amazon.com/Barrington-Holdem-Players-Padded-Holders/dp/B01KLJTEEW/ref=sr_1_5?crid=21BPZWGX6NHY9&keywords=barrington+poker+table+10+player&qid=1677081590&sprefix=barrington+poker+table%2Caps%2C102&sr=8-5&tag=amznpcfx-20)
Hey ya'll...im looking at buying my first table and I found what looks like a couple year old barrington on the local marketplace for $100... it looks like this type (see link) ...is it worth it for temporary use then to upgrade?
https://www.truegether.com/listing.html?id=USER.1c1cbc51-e7f8-4b1d-ac25-0a03b3b8c6d5
It depends on how quickly you want to get it. I believe I paid $150 for my table when it went on sale. That's a brand new one. Prices on them are closer to $350 right now, so $100 doesn't seem horrible if it's in good shape and you need it now.
It depends on how quickly you want to get it. I believe I paid $150 for my table when it went on sale. That's a brand new one. Prices on them are closer to $350 right now, so $100 doesn't seem horrible if it's in good shape and you need it now.
I dont need it. Its convenient and comes with a cheap 500 piece chip set...from the pictures its in great shape. Ill probably ask if he could go down to 75.
I will replace the chip set with something from discount poker store in the near future. I'm new so just getting my baby steps going.
If the legs and the rail are in good shape, then it's usually a pretty good deal for $100. Pick up one of these table toppers that specifically fits for a barrington table... and you'll have a great setup!
https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/made-to-order-custom-table-toppers.96993/
I dont need it. Its convenient and comes with a cheap 500 piece chip set...from the pictures its in great shape. Ill probably ask if he could go down to 75.
I will replace the chip set with something from discount poker store in the near future. I'm new so just getting my baby steps going.
If you don't, I might LOL. Modded mine into a pretty good looking budget table
Hey ya'll...im looking at buying my first table and I found what looks like a couple year old barrington on the local marketplace for $100... it looks like this type (see link) ...is it worth it for temporary use then to upgrade?
https://www.truegether.com/listing.html?id=USER.1c1cbc51-e7f8-4b1d-ac25-0a03b3b8c6d5
I’ve played on a barrington and they're fine. Stable enough, and honestly the stock felt and padding are fine. Adequate at least. The only real problem with them in my eyes is the stock cupholders. They’re so shallow, they’ll never prevent a spill - if you hit your drink, it’s going over. But spilling a drink on a hundred dollar table probably isn’t the end of the world. So for a hundred bucks, yeah grab it.
If you don't, I might LOL. Modded mine into a pretty good looking budget table
I’m messaging the guy now. If my wife smacks me down I’ll pick it up for ya and we can just grab a beer sometime and get you another table ;)
If the legs and the rail are in good shape, then it's usually a pretty good deal for $100. Pick up one of these table toppers that specifically fits for a barrington table... and you'll have a great setup!
https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/made-to-order-custom-table-toppers.96993/
I’ve been eye balling these so I’m very likely to pull the trigger
For those that want a Barrington, Wayfair has what appears to be the same table under a different brand for $270 right now: Wayfair Barrington (https://www.wayfair.com/furniture/pdp/kulamoon-71-8-player-poker-table-tser1147.html?piid=73290430&categoryid=1806853&placement=1&slot=0&sponsoredid=a97aab8d3b6e1c614c6b9564276d8f0bc1e51d06fe88002e9c7962d8a559d44a&_txid=I%2FWEwmP2bZ6dLxwPUzDHAg%3D%3D&isB2b=0&auctionId=34173f8b-58e6-454c-a7e0-6ce742c08dea)
For those that want a Barrington, Wayfair has what appears to be the same table under a different brand for $270 right now: Wayfair Barrington (https://www.wayfair.com/furniture/pdp/kulamoon-71-8-player-poker-table-tser1147.html?piid=73290430&categoryid=1806853&placement=1&slot=0&sponsoredid=a97aab8d3b6e1c614c6b9564276d8f0bc1e51d06fe88002e9c7962d8a559d44a&_txid=I%2FWEwmP2bZ6dLxwPUzDHAg%3D%3D&isB2b=0&auctionId=34173f8b-58e6-454c-a7e0-6ce742c08dea)
Is 71" standard length for a Barrington? I was thinking they were bigger than that.
10 man Barrington unfolded dimensions: 84"L x 42"W x 30"H.
Is 71" standard length for a Barrington? I was thinking they were bigger than that.
Good to know it’s an option though - good for smaller rooms. Though 35.5 seems narrow.
For those that want a Barrington, Wayfair has what appears to be the same table under a different brand for $270 right now: Wayfair Barrington (https://www.wayfair.com/furniture/pdp/kulamoon-71-8-player-poker-table-tser1147.html?piid=73290430&categoryid=1806853&placement=1&slot=0&sponsoredid=a97aab8d3b6e1c614c6b9564276d8f0bc1e51d06fe88002e9c7962d8a559d44a&_txid=I%2FWEwmP2bZ6dLxwPUzDHAg%3D%3D&isB2b=0&auctionId=34173f8b-58e6-454c-a7e0-6ce742c08dea)
Different table. "Traditional" Barrington tables usually discussed here are the 10-person, 84" version.
This table is great, but is an 8-person at 71". Just a heads up for anyone comparing the two.
It happened… $100 on FB marketplace
Different table. "Traditional" Barrington tables usually discussed here are the 10-person, 84" version.
This table is great, but is an 8-person at 71". Just a heads up for anyone comparing the two.
Appreciate the clarification - I saw the look of it and figured it was the same but I should have checked the measurements. I kinda want a smaller one now…
Table in Cleveland
If you’re in the area, it’s a good deal
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1508993579630486/?mibextid=6ojiHh
Last fall, I found a deal on Walmart's website for the brown Barrington for $200 delivered. I bought it with the intention of refitting it with speed cloth and lights before I ever played a hand on it. Life intervened, and I didn't get a chance to even start the project until this spring. A late decision to add lights caused a further delay, as I had to cut and shape plywood to match the rail pieces.
The lights are meant to go behind a TV, but they worked out beautifully. And they're USB powered, so I don't need a power outlet to have a lit game--a phone recharger battery pack is zip-tied underneath the table and will run the lights for hours on its' own.
I'm rather pleased with how it turned out, and can't wait to get some games going on it.
Here's links to what was used in this project:
Classic Holdem Layout - Dark Blue (Speed Cloth)
https://www.casinosupply.com/products/classic-holdem-layout-dark-blue-1
Navy Blue Marine Vinyl Fabric (to re-cover the rail)
https://www.marinevinylfabric.com/products/marine-vinyl-fabric?variant=13535262086
Volara Closed Cell Foam Poker Table Padding 8' x 58" x 1/8"
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076XNL217 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076XNL217?tag=amznpcfx-20)
LED Strip Lights, Maylit 8.2 ft TV LED Backlight for 40-60 inch TV
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0831MBNC2 (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0831MBNC2?tag=amznpcfx-20)
Muzata 10PACK 3.3FT/1M Flexible Silver LED Channel with Milky White LED Cover Lens Bendable Aluminum for LED Strip
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P8NWBP5 (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P8NWBP5?tag=amznpcfx-20)
Yuanhe Lot of 10 Drop-in Stainless Steel Jumbo Cup Holder
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075R76RRR (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075R76RRR?tag=amznpcfx-20)
Hillman Hardware Essentials 851070 Continuous Pin 36" x 1-1/2" Nickel
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GI26MLK (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GI26MLK?tag=amznpcfx-20)
did you use the existing rail boards for the jumbo cup holders? I am wanting to replace my cup holders with jumbo but I want to see if the existing wood will support the mod.
How many yards of SSC from YAT is needed to refelt the Barringron table?
How many yards of SSC from YAT is needed to refelt the Barringron table?
3 yd or 9 ft should suffice
How many yards of SSC from YAT is needed to refelt the Barringron table?
3, 4 if you arent as good at cutting .
Finally figured out some carrying handles.
Materials:
2 guitar amp handles: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Leather-St...eg-Vox-Black-Vintage-Style-H1008/382129391886 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Leather-Style-Guitar-Amp-Handle-Fender-Ampeg-Vox-Black-Vintage-Style-H1008/382129391886)
1 yard of strap material: https://www.dritz.com/quilting-sewi...straps/polypropylene-webbing-belting/28602-1/ (https://www.dritz.com/quilting-sewing-supplies/sewing/buckles-belting-straps/polypropylene-webbing-belting/28602-1/)
2 wood screws
I got the strap material from a local fabric store (JoAnn's).
The handles work great. The table is pretty heavy but with the handles much less awkward to carry and two people can carry it pretty easily. When the table is set up the handles hang underneath but they are really not noticeable.
View attachment 183049 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/183049/) View attachment 183050 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/183050/) View attachment 183051 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/183051/) View attachment 183052 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/183052/) View attachment 183053 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/183053/) View attachment 183054 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/183054/) View attachment 183055 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/183055/)
Think screwing those handles directly into the sides of the table under the padded rail would also work? I'm bummed the carrying bag everyone uses for this table doesn't fit the ESPN table, so I need a different way to carry it.
Just arrived: a Barrington table carry bag (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09W8R8N8Z?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&tag=amznpcfx-20) found by @MrBoosh (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/13672/)! Tracking down a bag that makes a Barrington easier to move around has been on my radar for a while. With this bag, it was pretty easy to slip my arm through the handles and carry the table on my hip - much better than even the handles I installed on the end of the table.
tl;dr if you have a Barrington that you move around when not in play, this could be a GREAT option!
Just arrived: a Barrington table carry bag found by @MrBoosh (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/13672/)! Tracking down a bag that makes a Barrington easier to move around has been on my radar for a while. With this bag, it was pretty easy to slip my arm through the handles and carry the table on my hip - much better than even the handles I installed on the end of the table.
tl;dr if you have a Barrington that you move around when not in play, this could be a GREAT option!
Need the link!
Need the link!
Here it is (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09W8R8N8Z?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&tag=amznpcfx-20)! (and edited in op)
Just arrived: a Barrington table carry bag (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09W8R8N8Z?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&tag=amznpcfx-20) found by @MrBoosh (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/13672/)! Tracking down a bag that makes a Barrington easier to move around has been on my radar for a while. With this bag, it was pretty easy to slip my arm through the handles and carry the table on my hip - much better than even the handles I installed on the end of the table.
tl;dr if you have a Barrington that you move around when not in play, this could be a GREAT option!
This bag works great for regular sized Barrington tables but the ESPN tables are a little thicker when closed due to the LED lights and they will not fit in this bag unfortunately.
Good to know it’s an option though - good for smaller rooms. Though 35.5 seems narrow.
This is the 84" version
https://www.wayfair.com/furniture/pdp/kulamoon-84-10-player-poker-table-tser1150.html
There are some other versions, that like a little different than Barrington and upon further inspection they are junk. Be careful.
If I had to buy another one, I'd go with the ESPN version at Walmart online for $299.
Have y’all trie carrying them with furniture straps? Much easier
Have y’all trie carrying them with furniture straps? Much easier
I like that it's a storage bag because currently, we're in my dirty garage and want to keep the table as clean as possible
I like that it's a storage bag because currently, we're in my dirty garage and want to keep the table as clean as possible
Makes sense if that’s where it’s being stored. It would be nice to keep dust/dirt off for sure
This bag works great for regular sized Barrington tables but the ESPN tables are a little thicker when closed due to the LED lights and they will not fit in this bag unfortunately.
This bag works great for regular sized Barrington tables but the ESPN tables are a little thicker when closed due to the LED lights and they will not fit in this bag unfortunately.
Will it fit in the bag button really tightly or will it not even go in the bag? The ESPN table
Thanks
Will it fit in the bag button really tightly or will it not even go in the bag? The ESPN table
Thanks
@Rome (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/781/) had purchased one of the bags for his ESPN table and was unable to get it into the bag. The measurements on a standard Barrington when closed is about 5.5 inches.
An ESPN table is just a little wider probably due to the LED lights added to the design of the table. So it will not fit in the bag. The ESPN table graphics on their ads show it is 5 inches when closed but this is not true.
@Rome (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/781/) had purchased one of the bags for his ESPN table and was unable to get it into the bag. The measurements on a standard Barrington when closed is about 5.5 inches.
View attachment 1101806 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1101806/)
An ESPN table is just a little wider probably due to the LED lights added to the design of the table. So it will not fit in the bag. The ESPN table graphics on their ads show it is 5 inches when closed but this is not true.
View attachment 1101807 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1101807/)
Thanks for the reply I bought one of those bags but the espn table is at someone else’s house so I was just going to return it
Have y’all trie carrying them with furniture straps? Much easier
Which ones do you use?
@Rome (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/781/) had purchased one of the bags for his ESPN table and was unable to get it into the bag. The measurements on a standard Barrington when closed is about 5.5 inches.
An ESPN table is just a little wider probably due to the LED lights added to the design of the table. So it will not fit in the bag. The ESPN table graphics on their ads show it is 5 inches when closed but this is not true.
View attachment 1101807 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1101807/)
It is weird that it has incorrect dimensions listed. I measured again and without compressing the rails its 6.5" thick. The bag idea is perfect because yes it helps carrying but also adds storage protection. I have searched for a couple hours to find another option and none seem to exist for folding poker tables but this one bag unfortunately.
This is the 84" version
https://www.wayfair.com/furniture/pdp/kulamoon-84-10-player-poker-table-tser1150.html
There are some other versions, that like a little different than Barrington and upon further inspection they are junk. Be careful.
Are you saying this Kulamoon version is “junk”?
If so, why (other than MDF vs plywood… even the ESPN table has MDF)?
Are you saying this Kulamoon version is “junk”?
If so, why (other than MDF vs plywood… even the ESPN table has MDF)?
No, the Kulamoon appears to be ok. I saw some others where the reviewer showed pics of their table and it didn't look good.
Look at the reviews in these:
https://www.wayfair.com/furniture/pdp/acem-905-10-player-rubberwood-poker-table-aemb1038.html?piid=
https://www.wayfair.com/furniture/pdp/acem-838-10-player-rubberwood-poker-table-aemb1037.html?piid=
If you haven’t used a heat gun for the cup holder removal…give it a shot…the cups came out in less than 30 seconds with minimal effort.
Does anyone have links for how to upgrade the padding and the felt?
I have a feeling this thread is going to be a lot busier in the next few weeks
I guess I should start reading the 27 pages now lol
@rjdev7 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/1014/) will be busy for sure
@rjdev7 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/1014/) will be busy for sure
Wayfair was just named his salesman of the month.
I just switched out the default cupholders with deeper cupholders. (Dang, those old ones are sharp!) Has anyone found a use for the shallow ones?
I just switched out the default cupholders with deeper cupholders. (Dang, those old ones are sharp!) Has anyone found a use for the shallow ones?
Skeet shooting.
Just saw the deal and got the table and I’m super excited!
I've redone a couple of those table types for friends, and it's a real PITA. Easiest way to get a new playing surface is to make a fitted insert (1/4" MDF) with padding/felt and just set it in place on top of the existing table (inside the rail circumference). You lose rail depth, but trying to do anything else is usually much more than you bargained for.
The construction techniques used on those tables are typically designed to be quick and very inexpensive (aka often shoddy), making disassembly extremely difficult and almost impossible to do without destroying something. Often the outer edge of the rail covering is stapled/glued to the underside of the table, and then wrapped up, over, and back under the rail top and is also stapled/glued to the table top under the rail, if that makes sense (and actually constructed in reverse order). Some rails aren't even really fully wrapped at all, but just have vinyl on two sides with the playing surface glued on top of the vinyl (which is glued/stapled to the table). Difficult to describe without corresponding pics, but once you discover how they're done during disassembly, it's a combination of OMG and WTF. Bottom line: the rail generally doesn't come off of the table unless you destroy it, so easily getting down to just the playing surface felt isn't feasible.
After repairing the second one, I decided it's not worth the effort/cost. I just consider them disposable tables -- cheap, functional for awhile, and when they break or need repair, just throw 'em away. Similar to War Games, the only winning move is not to play buy.
glad i came across this post
Mine still has yet to be broken in. Need to fix that
glad i came across this post
Better option still is to get a topper.
https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/made-to-order-custom-table-toppers.96993/page-18#post-2048891
Got my Barrington yesterday (full price from Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/?tag=amznpcfx-20), not Wayfair☹️). I've searched through dozens of pages of Barrington and topper threads, but wanted answers to 2 specific questions.
I laid my @rjdev7 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/1014/) topper (thicker one from last fall group buy) directly on the stock felt and noticed there's lots of give underneath. To the point the topper bunches up if you press and drag too hard. I would imagine it's even worse with a thinner topper. Has anyone removed the felt and padding and placed the topper directly on the table surface? How about removal and replacement with some other padding? Thoughts on this?
My other question is about the cup holders. Does anyone have a link or a site you purchased from. I want to keep the same diameter but go deeper. It sounds like there are some that are basically flush with the underside of the table after using a hole saw to cut through. That's what I'm looking for.
Thanks for any feedback.
Got my Barrington yesterday (full price from Amazon, not Wayfair☹️). I've searched through dozens of pages of Barrington and topper threads, but wanted answers to 2 specific questions.
I laid my @rjdev7 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/1014/) topper (thicker one from last fall group buy) directly on the stock felt and noticed there's lots of give underneath. To the point the topper bunches up if you press and drag too hard. I would imagine it's even worse with a thinner topper. Has anyone removed the felt and padding and placed the topper directly on the table surface? How about removal and replacement with some other padding? Thoughts on this?
My other question is about the cup holders. Does anyone have a link or a site you purchased from. I want to keep the same diameter but go deeper. It sounds like there are some that are basically flush with the underside of the table after using a hole saw to cut through. That's what I'm looking for.
Thanks for any feedback.
I bought these cups and they were a yuuuuge improvement. Fits tumblers, most rocks glasses and others. These are a wider diameter. I used the hole saw then used a rubber mallet and wood block to seat them since the hole was an exact fit.
Yuanhe 10 Jumbo Stainless Steel... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0789HG6NW?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0789HG6NW?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share&tag=amznpcfx-20)
I bought these cups and they were a yuuuuge improvement. Fits tumblers, most rocks glasses and others. These are a wider diameter. I used the hole saw then used a rubber mallet and wood block to seat them since the hole was an exact fit.
Yuanhe 10 Jumbo Stainless Steel... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0789HG6NW?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0789HG6NW?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share&tag=amznpcfx-20)
It sounds like the tight fit keeps them in place? No need to glue in?
It sounds like the tight fit keeps them in place? No need to glue in?
The topper:
Because the topper just sits on top of the factory felt, it's going to have a little give if you press hard enough. Given the poor quality of the original barrington felt, even that one bunches up when you press and drag. I would think that the only alternative around that is to get a different playing surface (like SSC) that you could staple down so that there's no give.
The cupholders:
I knew I wanted to replace the factory crappy cupholders. So I ended up purchasing two sizes:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0789HG6NW?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share&tag=pokchifor0d-20 (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0789HG6NW?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share&tag=amznpcfx-20)
AND
https://www.amazon.com/YH-Poker-Sta...sprefix=yuanhe+cup+holder,aps,99&sr=8-15&th=1 (https://www.amazon.com/YH-Poker-Stainless-Steel-Holders/dp/B075R88TGN/ref=sr_1_15?crid=QAUSH3M829AF&keywords=yuanhe%2Bcup%2Bholders&qid=1682690622&sprefix=yuanhe%2Bcup%2Bholder%2Caps%2C99&sr=8-15&th=1&tag=amznpcfx-20)
I ended up installing the standard sized ones instead of the jumbo ones because I felt like the jumbos took up too much space in the rail. If you go with the standard cupholders, use a 2-3/4 inch hole saw and the fit will be perfect. No need for glue. And the table will fold up with no issues with the height of those cupholders. Depending on which Barrington you purchased, you may need to cut the off a small portion of the legs so that four of the cupholders fit properly.
It sounds like the tight fit keeps them in place? No need to glue in?
None at all. I cut holes with a hole saw kit I got from Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/?tag=amznpcfx-20)…real crappy one that takes forever…but it worked
I put the deeper cup holders in mine and I do have a few that fall out when transporting the table. I plan to use some glue.
YMMV
I installed the larger cup holders. They weren’t snug, so I wrapped the cup holders with some painters tape to give it extra thickness. Holds snug now and looks great.
I installed the larger cup holders. They weren’t snug, so I wrapped the cup holders with some painters tape to give it extra thickness. Holds snug now and looks great.
I'll give that a try. Good idea.
Does anyone think I could get away with using a 9” wide roll of foam vs. an entire sheet to replace rail padding on the 6 individual sections?
Does anyone think I could get away with using a 9” wide roll of foam vs. an entire sheet to replace rail padding on the 6 individual sections?
I don't know if 9 inches is wide enough for the 2 rounded end pieces. It should work fine for the other four.
Could someone link me to the best tutorial/how to for upgrading to the jumbo cup holders? I’m considering a Memorial Day weekend project.
I think these are the correct cup holders (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0789HG6NW?ref_=cm_sw_r_apin_dp_17K1WRCSBRQ81W0EWC1E_1 (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0789HG6NW?ref_=cm_sw_r_apin_dp_17K1WRCSBRQ81W0EWC1E_1&tag=amznpcfx-20)), but recommendations for the drill bit, saw (if needed for trimming the leg brace underneath?), and best method for the replacement would be great!
Could someone link me to the best tutorial/how to for upgrading to the jumbo cup holders? I’m considering a Memorial Day weekend project.
I think these are the correct cup holders (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0789HG6NW?ref_=cm_sw_r_apin_dp_17K1WRCSBRQ81W0EWC1E_1 (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0789HG6NW?ref_=cm_sw_r_apin_dp_17K1WRCSBRQ81W0EWC1E_1&tag=amznpcfx-20)), but recommendations for the drill bit, saw (if needed for trimming the leg brace underneath?), and best method for the replacement would be great!
I used these (I think it is the same link...but just in case) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0789HG6NW?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share&tag=pokchifor0d-20 (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0789HG6NW?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share&tag=amznpcfx-20)
previous page, you will see I used a heat gun to soften the glue. constant movement so you dont burn any of the fake leather touching it. they came out in about 30 seconds to a min of heating.
I used a cheap hole saw set I got on amazon (https://www.amazon.com/?tag=amznpcfx-20). I wont even link it because it sucked so bad. I drained three dewalt batteries cutting the holes, so if you have a corded drill...then buy a cheap hole saw set I guess
I used a 3.5 hole saw for it. very tight fit. I had to use scarp 2x4 and a rubber mallet to set them in place.
to start, I took the legs off and did some measurements to trim the leg supports down. I think i trimmed off about 1-1.5" off each end and it worked perfect.
Once the cup was out, I took the saw bit and pressed it onto the faux leather to give me an approx location on what extra material/foam to cut out....then I trimmed back the excess. I also took my shop knife and trimmed back any table cloth that was intruding into where the hole would be.
Now, I cut holes.
Once the holes were cut, thats when I started gently pounding the new cups holders into place.
reassemble legs, vacuum your mess and done.
I used these (I think it is the same link...but just in case) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0789HG6NW?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share&tag=pokchifor0d-20 (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0789HG6NW?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share&tag=amznpcfx-20)
previous page, you will see I used a heat gun to soften the glue. constant movement so you dont burn any of the fake leather touching it. they came out in about 30 seconds to a min of heating.
I used a cheap hole saw set I got on amazon. I wont even link it because it sucked so bad. I drained three dewalt batteries cutting the holes, so if you have a corded drill...then buy a cheap hole saw set I guess
I used a 3.5 hole saw for it. very tight fit. I had to use scarp 2x4 and a rubber mallet to set them in place.
to start, I took the legs off and did some measurements to trim the leg supports down. I think i trimmed off about 1-1.5" off each end and it worked perfect.
Once the cup was out, I took the saw bit and pressed it onto the faux leather to give me an approx location on what extra material/foam to cut out....then I trimmed back the excess. I also took my shop knife and trimmed back any table cloth that was intruding into where the hole would be.
Now, I cut holes.
Once the holes were cut, thats when I started gently pounding the new cups holders into place.
reassemble legs, vacuum your mess and done.
Thanks for this! About how long did it take you?
I used a heat gun to soften the glue
I already have mine out - I used a small patch of Velcro on the cup and speed cloth to keep them together.
so if you have a corded drill...then buy a cheap hole saw set I guess
I used a 3.5 hole saw for it. very tight fit. I had to use scarp 2x4 and a rubber mallet to set them in place.
this 3 5/8 (92mm) hole saw seems like it would work? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08YJFNQR7?ref_=cm_sw_r_apin_dp_6WN1XW2VEWS5EK9M6N6J (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08YJFNQR7?ref_=cm_sw_r_apin_dp_6WN1XW2VEWS5EK9M6N6J&tag=amznpcfx-20)
Could someone link me to the best tutorial/how to for upgrading to the jumbo cup holders? I’m considering a Memorial Day weekend project.
I think these are the correct cup holders (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0789HG6NW?ref_=cm_sw_r_apin_dp_17K1WRCSBRQ81W0EWC1E_1 (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0789HG6NW?ref_=cm_sw_r_apin_dp_17K1WRCSBRQ81W0EWC1E_1&tag=amznpcfx-20)), but recommendations for the drill bit, saw (if needed for trimming the leg brace underneath?), and best method for the replacement would be great!
I used this thread for cup holders and instructions. But I just cut 4 slits at the pleather in order to get the drill saw into the hole with the pleather around the saw bit, then drilled down through the padding then wood. I didn’t replace the felt.
https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/barringtonc-poker-table-upgrade.95367/
Drill bits used below. Make sure to lengthen the pilot bit so that it bites into the wood before the saw bit. The 5/8 would probably be fine, the 3/4 left the hole a little bigger than the cup holder, but I just taped painters tape around the cup holder to give it extra thickness. Now it’s snug.
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-2-3-4-in-Hole-Dozer-Hole-Saw-49-56-9635/202327755
https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwauk...-Arbor-W-Pilot-Drill-Bit-49-56-7250/202256264 (https://www.homedepot.com/p/Milwaukee-3-8-in-Quick-Change-Large-Hole-Saw-Arbor-W-Pilot-Drill-Bit-49-56-7250/202256264)
Took the legs off and cut about 1” off the ends with the pipe cutter. About 4-5 spins and it comes right off pretty clean. When putting legs back on, I moved the support brackets inward to get fresh wood for the screw to bite on
https://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-...-Cutter-Multi-Use-Tubing-Tool-40617/100075014 (https://www.homedepot.com/p/RIDGID-1-4-in-to-1-1-8-in-101-Close-Quarters-Copper-Aluminum-Brass-and-Plastic-Tubing-Cutter-Multi-Use-Tubing-Tool-40617/100075014)
Took about 2-3 hours. If I can do it, anyone can do it. Good luck!
Thanks for this! About how long did it take you?
I already have mine out - I used a small patch of Velcro on the cup and speed cloth to keep them together.
this 3 5/8 (92mm) hole saw seems like it would work? https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08YJFNQR7?ref_=cm_sw_r_apin_dp_6WN1XW2VEWS5EK9M6N6J (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08YJFNQR7?ref_=cm_sw_r_apin_dp_6WN1XW2VEWS5EK9M6N6J&tag=amznpcfx-20)
If I would have had a better hole saw kit (I bought some cheap $25 15 piece set on amazon (https://www.amazon.com/?tag=amznpcfx-20)) and a corded drill that I didnt have to worry about draining the battery...it would be have been an hour or slightly more. I had a jig saw with a metal cutting blade, to that took almost 5 minutes to make all four cuts. It took me closer to three because I had to wait for batteries to get a charge multiple times. and the hole saw was soooooo slow.
I bought these cup holders: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06W2JBLJJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06W2JBLJJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1&tag=amznpcfx-20)
ANd used this hole saw: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0975KF1JW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0975KF1JW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1&tag=amznpcfx-20)
I actually installed them this weekend. Took about an hour to drill the new holes. The cups were just barely loose, so I added a strip of duct tape around the lower part of the side, and then it fit in nice and snug, no bracing needed.
I will point out that I didn't have a sawzall, so I had to use a dremel to cut down the table legs. That took a full hour in itself. With a sawzall, it would have taken a fraction of that time.
All in, it took a total of 2 hours and was a total breeze to do.
I bought these cup holders: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06W2JBLJJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06W2JBLJJ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1&tag=amznpcfx-20)
ANd used this hole saw: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0975KF1JW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0975KF1JW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&th=1&tag=amznpcfx-20)
I actually installed them this weekend. Took about an hour to drill the new holes. The cups were just barely loose, so I added a strip of duct tape around the lower part of the side, and then it fit in nice and snug, no bracing needed.
I will point out that I didn't have a sawzall, so I had to use a dremel to cut down the table legs. That took a full hour in itself. With a sawzall, it would have taken a fraction of that time.
All in, it took a total of 2 hours and was a total breeze to do.
these are not jumbo size correct? so they really only fit bottles and cans?
these are not jumbo size correct? so they really only fit bottles and cans?
Correct. They won't fit anything like a Yeti water bottle and such. But bottles and cans, pint glasses, Soda fast food cups and such all fit great.
Correct. They won't fit anything like a Yeti water bottle and such. But bottles and cans, pint glasses, Soda fast food cups and such all fit great.
gotcha, I went the jumbo route because we have a lot of bourbon drinkers so most of our slots are filled with tumblers or rocks glasses.
Incoming!
I used a 3.5 hole saw for it. very tight fit. I had to use scarp 2x4 and a rubber mallet to set them in place.
I wonder if you stuck the cupholders in the freezer for a bit, if that would shrink them enough to make the job easier?
I used a 3.5 hole saw for it. very tight fit. I had to use scarp 2x4 and a rubber mallet to set them in place.
I wonder if you stuck the cupholders in the freezer for a bit
I ordered a 3 5/8” hole saw, I’m hopeful that’s perfect.
Update!
and picked up one of these today to trim the leg braces.
If all goes well, I hope to start and finish tomorrow (Thursday) afternoon!
Got started. Holders away from the table supports are pretty easy, but I ripped the rail on both…might do some pre cutting on the next 8.
New cups are much better.
@dmoney (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/3698/)
How’s the betting line holding up?
Did you use the marker method?
Any smudging onto cards?
Thanks.
How’s the betting line holding up?
Great - only played 1-2 games or ~12 hours on it since adding the line, I think.
Did you use the marker method?
Yep, see here (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/barrington-poker-table-thread.30910/post-1788529)
Any smudging onto cards?
Nope, I think it’s more likely to fade than smudge. And both of those seem pretty unlikely IMO.
The pleather on the rail keeps tearing…I’m going to try to cover with some painters tape for the next one. 3 cups done.
The pleather on the rail keeps tearing…I’m going to try to cover with some painters tape for the next one. 3 cups done.
Don’t start the drill full speed until you’re inside the cut out in the pleather. I only made that mistake once
The pleather on the rail keeps tearing…I’m going to try to cover with some painters tape for the next one. 3 cups done.
Cut some 4 slits in the pleather first (perpendicular to the hole), then that gives enough relief to the hole to allow you to wrap the pleather around the saw bit. Then start to drill. The saw bit should not cut the pleather. I wrapped the saw bit with painters tape so that the pleather didn’t catch in the side walls of the saw bit.
Drill a pilot hole in the cup holder space from the top side then use that to line up your cut from the underside. Much harder to cut/tear the vinyl unless you blast through too fast.
Don’t start the drill full speed until you’re inside the cut out in the pleather
Cut some 4 slits in the pleather first (perpendicular to the hole), then that gives enough relief to the hole to allow you to wrap the pleather around the saw bit. Then start to drill. The saw bit should not cut the pleather.
One issue I see is that the lip of the new cup is much shallower than the old cup ie less room to “hide” the relief cuts underneath, making it harder.
Drill a pilot hole in the cup holder space from the top side then use that to line up your cut from the underside. Much harder to cut/tear the vinyl unless you blast through too fast.
Definitely going to try this, especially the four cups closest to the braces
SOOOOO much better to drill pilot hole from the top, flip the table, and drill the hole from the bottom.
First time we used the Wayfair special from a while back. Someone knocked over a beer that was in the tiny cupholder within the first hour. This is definitely going to be an upcoming project for me
All done! Pretty straightforward after some lessons learned on day 1 - most notably to drill the pilot hole from the top, and the hole from the bottom. Big improvement for about $60 including cup holders, hole saw, and pipe cutter.
Does anyone have a use for, or want my old cupholders? Maybe could be used as ashtrays?
Wow glad I found this thread. Went searching through offerup and facebook marketplace and found a few for sale around $100-150. Hopefully I can get one soon and go deeper into the modification portion of this thread.
I got a lot of help from this forum on redoing mine so I wanted to spread the wealth on those who have the ESPN table.
Tips:
The only difference is there is a layer of plyboard underneath the arm rests, but this affects how you will build it.
Bring the foam padding under the plywood that the front quarter rests on it. this will give it a slight slant upwards which will create a deeper ring affect, and will also allow you to use LED's still.
If you are drilling out cup holders, do not go bigger than 2.75", otherwise you will eat through the entire LED plywood sheet. Because of this extra depth you also do not need to cut the legs of the table unless your cup depth is over 2.5"
You should absolutely replace the foam under the felt. IT IS GARBAGE. since you'll already have most of the work done, spend the extra $30 and get some good foam. I used elmers adhesive spray because I already had it, otherwise i'd use 3M. Elmers worked fine for me.
Replace the LED's. We all know that the ones they originally use are too bright, and the inability to change the color is annoying.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08JH5M6N3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08JH5M6N3/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1&tag=amznpcfx-20)
That is what I used and they look great for the price!
Total cost:
$136 for new speed cloth and foam from TPS
$30 set of 10 2.75" diameter, 2.5" depth cup drop ins.
$16 multicolored LED's
$22 for clamps and hole cutter (I already had the rest of the tools)
I am generally a handy guy, but have little woodworking experience. From start to finish it took me about 8 hours.
PicsView attachment 815575 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/815575/)View attachment 815577 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/815577/)View attachment 815578 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/815578/)View attachment 815580 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/815580/)
Do you think the lights could have ben replaced without taking off the arm rest?
Wow, 29 pages. This thread was great. I now have my shopping list. $325 for the table, topper, cup holders, carrying handles and replacement hinge. Not bad considering a brand new one is running about $300 these days.
they are down to 300 new now - https://www.walmart.com/ip/Barrington-10-Player-Poker-Table-No-Assembly-Required/55465427
inflation is real.
they are down to 300 new now - https://www.walmart.com/ip/Barrington-10-Player-Poker-Table-No-Assembly-Required/55465427
inflation is real.
Yep. I’m getting an ESPN one second hand but still in box for half that.
Finally figured out some carrying handles.
Materials:
2 guitar amp handles: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Leather-St...eg-Vox-Black-Vintage-Style-H1008/382129391886 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Leather-Style-Guitar-Amp-Handle-Fender-Ampeg-Vox-Black-Vintage-Style-H1008/382129391886)
1 yard of strap material: https://www.dritz.com/quilting-sewi...straps/polypropylene-webbing-belting/28602-1/ (https://www.dritz.com/quilting-sewing-supplies/sewing/buckles-belting-straps/polypropylene-webbing-belting/28602-1/)
2 wood screws
I got the strap material from a local fabric store (JoAnn's).
The handles work great. The table is pretty heavy but with the handles much less awkward to carry and two people can carry it pretty easily. When the table is set up the handles hang underneath but they are really not noticeable.
View attachment 183049 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/183049/) View attachment 183050 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/183050/) View attachment 183051 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/183051/) View attachment 183052 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/183052/) View attachment 183053 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/183053/) View attachment 183054 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/183054/) View attachment 183055 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/183055/)
How are these straps holding up? Anything you would do different?
Finally figured out some carrying handles.
Materials:
2 guitar amp handles: https://www.ebay.com/itm/Leather-St...eg-Vox-Black-Vintage-Style-H1008/382129391886 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Leather-Style-Guitar-Amp-Handle-Fender-Ampeg-Vox-Black-Vintage-Style-H1008/382129391886)
1 yard of strap material: https://www.dritz.com/quilting-sewi...straps/polypropylene-webbing-belting/28602-1/ (https://www.dritz.com/quilting-sewing-supplies/sewing/buckles-belting-straps/polypropylene-webbing-belting/28602-1/)
2 wood screws
I got the strap material from a local fabric store (JoAnn's).
The handles work great. The table is pretty heavy but with the handles much less awkward to carry and two people can carry it pretty easily. When the table is set up the handles hang underneath but they are really not noticeable.
View attachment 183049 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/183049/) View attachment 183050 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/183050/) View attachment 183051 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/183051/) View attachment 183052 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/183052/) View attachment 183053 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/183053/) View attachment 183054 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/183054/) View attachment 183055 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/183055/)
How have the handles held up??
Just wanted to share the handles I wound up attaching to the table (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000R2J3KY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1&tag=amznpcfx-20). Makes it way easier to move around and still lay flat when set up. It's actually a replacement amplifier handle, but works great with no modification. Drill two holes and you're golden.
View attachment 391286 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/391286/)View attachment 391287 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/391287/)View attachment 391288 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/391288/)
How have these handles held up?
How have the handles held up??
How have these handles held up?
I installed the 2nd ones just recently. Can't speak to how they will hold up but they feel secure on there and if not moving the table around very often should last a long time.
Another thing I did recently was put duct tape around my jumbo cup holders so they wouldn't fall out when in transport. Works like a charm. Those things are in there tight now.
The last thing I'd like to do is install the underneath bracket that runs along the entire table to give it more strength in the middle.
The table has certainly been an easy enough project overall and it should serve me well for a while. The next step is to get to actually play some poker on it on a semi regular basis.
How have the handles held up??
Really well. No issues from the handles at all. It is a little akward carrying it via the handles up at the top, but other than that, they're peachy.
Confirmed! The ESPN table fits in this bag!!
Confirmed! The ESPN table fits in this bag!!
Which bag is this? Can u provide the link?
Which bag is this? Can u provide the link?
This one: https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/barrington-folding-table-bag.108030/#post-2229461
Just wanted to say thank you to this thread. It's been super helpful in my Barrington purchase as well as refurbish.
Where it started...
Phase 1.... New speed cloth, drilled out new same diameter deeper cup holders.
Phase 2... New vinyl and larger diameter cup holders.
Phase 3 maybe will be to raise side the rail and add LED lighting.
Not sure I'm gonna do it yet.
Thank you all for your shares of builds instructions etc.
It's super appreciated.
Just wanted to say thank you to this thread. It's been super helpful in my Barrington purchase as well as refurbish.
Where it started...
View attachment 1168219 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1168219/)
Phase 1.... New speed cloth, drilled out new same diameter deeper cup holders.
View attachment 1168216 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1168216/)
Phase 2... New vinyl and larger diameter cup holders.
View attachment 1168217 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1168217/)
View attachment 1168218 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1168218/)
Phase 3 maybe will be to raise side the rail and add LED lighting.
Not sure I'm gonna do it yet.
Thank you all for your shares of builds instructions etc.
It's super appreciated.
Excellent job on the refurb and upgrades! It looks great!
I’m wondering how many I should sit at this table. 10 seems like 10 skinny kids. Should I cap my game at 8?
Just wanted to say thank you to this thread. It's been super helpful in my Barrington purchase as well as refurbish.
Where it started...
View attachment 1168219 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1168219/)
Phase 1.... New speed cloth, drilled out new same diameter deeper cup holders.
View attachment 1168216 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1168216/)
Phase 2... New vinyl and larger diameter cup holders.
View attachment 1168217 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1168217/)
View attachment 1168218 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1168218/)
Phase 3 maybe will be to raise side the rail and add LED lighting.
Not sure I'm gonna do it yet.
Thank you all for your shares of builds instructions etc.
It's super appreciated.
Very nice! Did you put the new vinyl over the existing? Or remove and then put on?
Very nice! Did you put the new vinyl over the existing? Or remove and then put on?
Removed and put the new on to make it as clean as possible.
Removed and put the new on to make it as clean as possible.
Did you change the padding on the rail or on the table or re-use what was there?
The topper:
Because the topper just sits on top of the factory felt, it's going to have a little give if you press hard enough. Given the poor quality of the original barrington felt, even that one bunches up when you press and drag. I would think that the only alternative around that is to get a different playing surface (like SSC) that you could staple down so that there's no give.
The cupholders:
I knew I wanted to replace the factory crappy cupholders. So I ended up purchasing two sizes:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0789HG6NW?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share&tag=pokchifor0d-20 (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0789HG6NW?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share&tag=amznpcfx-20)
AND
https://www.amazon.com/YH-Poker-Stainless-Steel-Holders/dp/B075R88TGN/ref=sr_1_15?crid=QAUSH3M829AF&keywords=yuanhe+cup+holders&qid=1682690622&sprefix=yuanhe+cup+holder,aps,99&sr=8-15&th=1 (https://www.amazon.com/YH-Poker-Stainless-Steel-Holders/dp/B075R88TGN/ref=sr_1_15?crid=QAUSH3M829AF&keywords=yuanhe%2Bcup%2Bholders&qid=1682690622&sprefix=yuanhe%2Bcup%2Bholder%2Caps%2C99&sr=8-15&th=1&tag=amznpcfx-20)
I ended up installing the standard sized ones instead of the jumbo ones because I felt like the jumbos took up too much space in the rail. If you go with the standard cupholders, use a 2-3/4 inch hole saw and the fit will be perfect. No need for glue. And the table will fold up with no issues with the height of those cupholders. Depending on which Barrington you purchased, you may need to cut the off a small portion of the legs so that four of the cupholders fit properly.
Just a heads-up for those of you following this thread. The standard 2-3/4 is just wide enough for a beer bottle, pint can and a tom collins glass. It will not fit an old fashioned/rocks glass.
Did you change the padding on the rail or on the table or re-use what was there?
Just re-used what was there... The thicker vinyl.. (almost 3x thicker I think) makes the rail more curved rather than square that it used to be.
Just a heads-up for those of you following this thread. The standard 2-3/4 is just wide enough for a beer bottle, pint can and a tom collins glass. It will not fit an old fashioned/rocks glass.
Correct... I used deeper original size ones at first... Then used these 3.5 inch diameter ones in my phase 2.
Yuanhe 10 Jumbo Stainless Steel https://a.co/d/7K7ZLxb (https://a.co/d/7K7ZLxb?tag=amznpcfx-20)
I’m wondering how many I should sit at this table. 10 seems like 10 skinny kids. Should I cap my game at 8?
10 definitely is a tight fit. 9 would be the max.
10 definitely is a tight fit. 9 would be the max.
I don't think 9 fat guys (aka ME) fit. I limit mine to 8.
I'm the playing dealer and also cap mine at 8
Added a shuffler to my Barrington today for travel games. I like the idea of upgrading the vinyl. I will put it on the list!
Added a shuffler to my Barrington today for travel games. I like the idea of upgrading the vinyl. I will put it on the list!
View attachment 1169097 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1169097/)
Whoa! How does this affect foldability and portability of the table? Any issues?
Added a shuffler to my Barrington today for travel games. I like the idea of upgrading the vinyl. I will put it on the list!
View attachment 1169097 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1169097/)
Cards won’t get misdealt if slid over the top of it?
Last fall, I found a deal on Walmart's website for the brown Barrington for $200 delivered. I bought it with the intention of refitting it with speed cloth and lights before I ever played a hand on it. Life intervened, and I didn't get a chance to even start the project until this spring. A late decision to add lights caused a further delay, as I had to cut and shape plywood to match the rail pieces.
The lights are meant to go behind a TV, but they worked out beautifully. And they're USB powered, so I don't need a power outlet to have a lit game--a phone recharger battery pack is zip-tied underneath the table and will run the lights for hours on its' own.
I'm rather pleased with how it turned out, and can't wait to get some games going on it.
Here's links to what was used in this project:
Classic Holdem Layout - Dark Blue (Speed Cloth)
https://www.casinosupply.com/products/classic-holdem-layout-dark-blue-1
Navy Blue Marine Vinyl Fabric (to re-cover the rail)
https://www.marinevinylfabric.com/products/marine-vinyl-fabric?variant=13535262086
Volara Closed Cell Foam Poker Table Padding 8' x 58" x 1/8"
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076XNL217 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B076XNL217?tag=amznpcfx-20)
LED Strip Lights, Maylit 8.2 ft TV LED Backlight for 40-60 inch TV
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0831MBNC2 (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0831MBNC2?tag=amznpcfx-20)
Muzata 10PACK 3.3FT/1M Flexible Silver LED Channel with Milky White LED Cover Lens Bendable Aluminum for LED Strip
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P8NWBP5 (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07P8NWBP5?tag=amznpcfx-20)
Yuanhe Lot of 10 Drop-in Stainless Steel Jumbo Cup Holder
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075R76RRR (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075R76RRR?tag=amznpcfx-20)
Hillman Hardware Essentials 851070 Continuous Pin 36" x 1-1/2" Nickel
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GI26MLK (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GI26MLK?tag=amznpcfx-20)
Hey there... quick question. When you raised the rail what did you do to hide the plywood look from the outside... Just black paint?
Whoa! How does this affect foldability and portability of the table? Any issues?
Made it a little lighter ;)
The shuffler just slides in and out so no issues folding or moving the table around
Cards won’t get misdealt if slid over the top of it?
Nah, they will slide right over the top. The shuffler is pretty heavy so the cards shouldn’t slide underneath the lip of it. They haven’t slipped under on my other table yet
Added a shuffler to my Barrington today for travel games. I like the idea of upgrading the vinyl. I will put it on the list!
View attachment 1169097 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1169097/)
Awesome upgrade... I just wish I could afford one :P
Just wanted to say thank you to this thread. It's been super helpful in my Barrington purchase as well as refurbish.
Where it started...
View attachment 1168219 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1168219/)
Phase 1.... New speed cloth, drilled out new same diameter deeper cup holders.
View attachment 1168216 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1168216/)
Phase 2... New vinyl and larger diameter cup holders.
View attachment 1168217 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1168217/)
View attachment 1168218 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1168218/)
Phase 3 maybe will be to raise side the rail and add LED lighting.
Not sure I'm gonna do it yet.
Thank you all for your shares of builds instructions etc.
It's super appreciated.
How many yards of vinyl did you need to redo the rails?
How many yards of vinyl did you need to redo the rails?
I ordered 3 yards but might have only used 2. I have a lot left.
This is available at Costco Australia for $450AU (~$300 US):
https://www.costco.com.au/Sports-Fi...rts-Barrington-10-Player-Poker-Table/p/130766 (https://www.costco.com.au/Sports-Fitness-Leisure/Sports-Equipment/Medal-Sports-Barrington-10-Player-Poker-Table/p/130766)
Should I pull the trigger or can I find a better deal here?
Has anyone tried something like these to "fill" the gap in the middle? Even when I put my thicker table topper on it, I feel the groove gap and it drives me crazy (I may be too much).
https://a.co/d/bo7kylO (https://a.co/d/bo7kylO?tag=amznpcfx-20)
https://a.co/d/6fOK0rC (https://a.co/d/6fOK0rC?tag=amznpcfx-20)
This is available at Costco Australia for $450AU (~$300 US):
https://www.costco.com.au/Sports-Fi...rts-Barrington-10-Player-Poker-Table/p/130766 (https://www.costco.com.au/Sports-Fitness-Leisure/Sports-Equipment/Medal-Sports-Barrington-10-Player-Poker-Table/p/130766)
Should I pull the trigger or can I find a better deal here?
Dont know how much more expensive it is over there, but that's not an amazing deal. If you'd like it, buy it, but its not a must buy at that price.
Is it just me or did Barrington change out the vinyl on newer tables? This is the one I just got and doesn’t appear as shiny as ones posted in this thread. Maybe it’s one of the reasons for prices going up (perhaps as a result of supply shortages)?
Is it just me or did Barrington change out the vinyl on newer tables? This is the one I just got and doesn’t appear as shiny as ones posted in this thread. Maybe it’s one of the reasons for prices going up (perhaps as a result of supply shortages)?
View attachment 1173364 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1173364/)
It looks much nicer than the old vinyl. Also looks like it has better foam in the armrest.
Is it just me or did Barrington change out the vinyl on newer tables? This is the one I just got and doesn’t appear as shiny as ones posted in this thread. Maybe it’s one of the reasons for prices going up (perhaps as a result of supply shortages)?
View attachment 1173364 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1173364/)
I just got mine I ordered from amazon (https://www.amazon.com/?tag=amznpcfx-20) today when it went on sale for $258 and it looks like your photo. Also, it's currently back on sale again today for $266.74. It was around $330 prior to this price.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KLJTEEW/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KLJTEEW/ref=ppx_od_dt_b_asin_title_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1&tag=amznpcfx-20)
Also, I do see why people upgrade the cup holders to deeper ones since the ones it comes with are pretty shallow. Hopefully a project in the future with all the tutorials provided by everyone.
Is it just me or did Barrington change out the vinyl on newer tables? This is the one I just got and doesn’t appear as shiny as ones posted in this thread. Maybe it’s one of the reasons for prices going up (perhaps as a result of supply shortages)?
View attachment 1173364 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1173364/)
Wow that armrest looks much better…
Also, I do see why people upgrade the cup holders to deeper ones since the ones it comes with are pretty shallow. Hopefully a project in the future with all the tutorials provided by everyone.
Once you have the circular saw bit for your drill, it’s pretty easy. If I get another of these I will do the wider cup holders.
Has anyone put locking caster wheels on their table? Found these that should fit the 1" legs. I put some felt pads under for now to slide the table around without damaging my floor but found it slides a bit too easily and can be knocked/nudged during games.
https://a.co/d/cB4qBpg (https://a.co/d/cB4qBpg?tag=amznpcfx-20)
The rollerblade style wheels would be nice. Once opened though, I wouldn't really need to move it around.
The new vinyl rail is awesome
The new vinyl rail is awesome
View attachment 1175809 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1175809/)
I do like that better than the old vinyl!
Which is the preferred bag for the Barrington? Is it one of these two or something else?
Hengme Bag (https://www.amazon.com/Hengme-Bag-Waterproof-Protective-Accessories/dp/B0BYV2VCV1?th=1&tag=amznpcfx-20)
I got the second one (global storage) and it’s a not a super tight fit which makes putting the table in a bit easier. No issues and is curved on one side matching the table’s profile.
Which is the preferred bag for the Barrington? Is it one of these two or something else?
Hengme Bag (https://www.amazon.com/Hengme-Bag-Waterproof-Protective-Accessories/dp/B0BYV2VCV1?th=1&tag=amznpcfx-20)
I got the second, works fine. Storage n transport.
Which is the preferred bag for the Barrington? Is it one of these two or something else?
Hengme Bag (https://www.amazon.com/Hengme-Bag-Waterproof-Protective-Accessories/dp/B0BYV2VCV1?th=1&tag=amznpcfx-20)
I have the Global bag. It works great for a standard Barrington table. I believe the Hengme bag is wide enough for the ESPN Barrington tables though.
I have the Global bag. It works great for a standard Barrington table. I believe the Hengme bag is wide enough for the ESPN Barrington tables though.
Yup the hengme is the one for the ESPN
I have a 72x36 mat that perfectly fits my dining table, but I'm moving into an apartment with less space so the table probably has to go... I was hoping to get a folding table the mat would fit, Barrington surface is 74x32 right? I'm thinking I'm just SOL finding a table to fit the mat but was wondering if anyone has fit off-sized mats to their tables somehow.
I have a 72x36 mat that perfectly fits my dining table, but I'm moving into an apartment with less space so the table probably has to go... I was hoping to get a folding table the mat would fit, Barrington surface is 74x32 right? I'm thinking I'm just SOL finding a table to fit the mat but was wondering if anyone has fit off-sized mats to their tables somehow.
You’re way better off finding a table and then customizing a mat for it.
I have a 72x36 mat that perfectly fits my dining table, but I'm moving into an apartment with less space so the table probably has to go... I was hoping to get a folding table the mat would fit, Barrington surface is 74x32 right? I'm thinking I'm just SOL finding a table to fit the mat but was wondering if anyone has fit off-sized mats to their tables somehow.
You’re correct. “Standard” sold on Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/?tag=amznpcfx-20) etc are too short length wise and too long width.
Hit up @rjdev7 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/1014/) for a custom mat!
You’re correct. “Standard” sold on Amazon etc are too short length wise and too long width.
Hit up @rjdev7 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/1014/) for a custom mat!
You’re way better off finding a table and then customizing a mat for it.
Yeah, I figured, wishing I'd gone for a folding table in the first place, because that's easier to bring with when moving than a dining table.
I have a 72x36 mat that perfectly fits my dining table, but I'm moving into an apartment with less space so the table probably has to go... I was hoping to get a folding table the mat would fit, Barrington surface is 74x32 right? I'm thinking I'm just SOL finding a table to fit the mat but was wondering if anyone has fit off-sized mats to their tables somehow.
Have you considered donating the mat to one of your players so they could host once in a while? Might be helpful to have another host while you go through the moving process
Have you considered donating the mat to one of your players so they could host once in a while? Might be helpful to have another host while you go through the moving process
Haha, I wish. If I weren't hosting only ~2 others in the group would ever play poker, and even they probably wouldn't host.
Is it just me or did Barrington change out the vinyl on newer tables? This is the one I just got and doesn’t appear as shiny as ones posted in this thread. Maybe it’s one of the reasons for prices going up (perhaps as a result of supply shortages)?
View attachment 1173364 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1173364/)
wow that looks SO much better. damnit.
Can confirm new rail vinyl. I don’t think it’s any more comfortable, but it looks like a legit table now
Aight, very jealous of the improvements. Cant exactly complain at my price point but damn, looks better.
Aight, very jealous of the improvements. Cant exactly complain at my price point but damn, looks better.
With a topper it’s all you need. And I have a premium table.
The railing looks legit and it’s an understatement the benefit it folds up.
Hosts rejoice!!!
With a topper it’s all you need. And I have a premium table.
The railing looks legit and it’s a understatement the benefit jt folds up.
Hosts rejoice!!!
I got the old one so I straight up hate the shallow cupholders but you're right, already getting the topper and Im psyched.
If you’re shopping for anything other than a custom table these new barringtons are tough, if not impossible, to beat imo. Dumping all my extra tables and replacing with these. Wish they offered a round at a similar price point.
I'm going to get one of these soon. The new rail looks good!
Next thing they should change is the felt design. I don't really like the flop and board theme. It just bugs my OCD for some reason. That won't stop me from buying one though, might get a mat for it.
Does anyone have a custom solution for keeping the table closed when folded up? The buckle that hold the straps together broke on mine and I'm trying to think of the best replacement (ignore the residue from trying to see what duck tape could do). It's not a big deal but it's much easier to carry and transport if it can't open up spontaneously. I guess I could also just get a carrying case but I'm worried it will try to open inside that and put pressure on the case and tear it.
Does anyone have a custom solution for keeping the table closed when folded up? The buckle that hold the straps together broke on mine and I'm trying to think of the best replacement (ignore the residue from trying to see what duck tape could do). It's not a big deal but it's much easier to carry and transport if it can't open up spontaneously. I guess I could also just get a carrying case but I'm worried it will try to open inside that and put pressure on the case and tear it.View attachment 1189528 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1189528/)
Found a Barrington in my area for $200. Photos seem to show some creases in the felt though. Owner says it’s from being in storage for so long, but assured me there are no tears in the fabric.
What do you guys think? Never actually seen one of these in person. Is this something that can be smoothed out? If so how? An iron?
Goal is to eventually get a topper. But would hope go play on the table sooner. And not really handy enough to re-felt it outright.
Found a Barrington in my area for $200. Photos seem to show some creases in the felt though. Owner says it’s from being in storage for so long, but assured me there are no tears in the fabric.
What do you guys think? Never actually seen one of these in person. Is this something that can be smoother out? If so how? An iron?
Goal is to eventually get a topper. But would hope go play on the table sooner. And not really handy enough to re-felt it outright.
I think it will be playable for a few games until you upgrade it. That’s a decent price these days IMO.
I think it will be playable for a few games until you upgrade it. That’s a decent price these days IMO.
Let's just say the creases weren't able to come out. Do you think it would affect the smoothness of a topper? Again, never personally seen one of these, nor a high end topper like they sell on here.
I can’t speak to the topper as I did the SSC upgrade to mine.
I got the old one so I straight up hate the shallow cupholders but you're right, already getting the topper and Im psyched.
That’s why you replace them!
Do
Let's just say the creases weren't able to come out. Do you think it would affect the smoothness of a topper? Again, never personally seen one of these, nor a high end topper like they sell on here.
Unless there are lumps of padding creating those ripples, a topper should not be affected by them. It’s heavy enough to weigh down any fabric creases from that original cloth.
Let's just say the creases weren't able to come out. Do you think it would affect the smoothness of a topper? Again, never personally seen one of these, nor a high end topper like they sell on here.
Unless there are lumps of padding creating those ripples, a topper should not be affected by them. It’s heavy enough to weigh down any fabric creases from that original cloth.
Let's just say the creases weren't able to come out. Do you think it would affect the smoothness of a topper? Again, never personally seen one of these, nor a high end topper like they sell on here.
I know it isn't a good selection of SSC (I personally made this mistake once not knowing any better) but you can get a roll on Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/?tag=amznpcfx-20) for dirt cheap
https://www.amazon.com/YH-Poker-108...id=1693712129&sprefix=suited+s,aps,121&sr=8-3 (https://www.amazon.com/YH-Poker-108X60Inch-Section-Two-Tone/dp/B0791FX7X1/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=QDUZKX2P88PG&keywords=suited+speed+cloth&qid=1693712129&sprefix=suited+s%2Caps%2C121&sr=8-3&tag=amznpcfx-20)
A 12 pack a buddy a screwdriver and a staple gun and it's replaced pretty quickly
Just bored out the holes for deeper cup holders (same Da Vinci ones linked in this thread) and found that, let's call it, the V2 table does NOT require cutting the leg pipes. Seems Barrington is watching us and making improvements. :)
Just bored out the holes for deeper cup holders (same Da Vinci ones linked in this thread) and found that, let's call it, the V2 table does NOT require cutting the leg pipes. Seems Barrington is watching us and making improvements. :)
View attachment 1195713 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1195713/)
View attachment 1195714 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1195714/)
I need to do this but I'm an idiot. Does someone have a "how-to" video that I can reference? :wtf:
Buy a 2 3/4” hole saw from wherever.
Attach it to your drill.
Heat/remove existing cup holders.
Drill hole.
I’m still waiting for my new cup holders to arrive today so can’t comment on the “installation”.
Buy a 2 3/4” hole saw from wherever.
Attach it to your drill.
Heat/remove existing cup holders.
Drill hole.
I’m still waiting for my new cup holders to arrive today so can’t comment on the “installation”.
Duct tape around the new cup holders so they fit snuggly. Mine would fall out in transport until I did that extremely simple upgrade.
Just bored out the holes for deeper cup holders (same Da Vinci ones linked in this thread) and found that, let's call it, the V2 table does NOT require cutting the leg pipes. Seems Barrington is watching us and making improvements. :)
View attachment 1195713 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1195713/)
View attachment 1195714 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1195714/)
Your holes are so much cleaner than mine. I nearly started a fire on each one and the smell was not pleasant.
Your holes are so much cleaner than mine. I nearly started a fire on each one and the smell was not pleasant.
I went high speed but mm at a time frequently backing out. Added a tad more time but was very smooth and no smoking/charring.
I went high speed but mm at a time frequently backing out. Added a tad more time but was very smooth and no smoking/charring.
Patience. That’s what I was missing!
Cup holders arrived. Thanks @rjbf65 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/2004/) for the tip on duct tape. I didn’t have any and used masking tape instead. Worked just fine with 3-4 wraps (or should I say orbits) per holder. Fits very snug, tight even. Without the tape the cup holders would definitely slip out rather easily. I should mention the lip on the new cup holders are smaller so you can see the old cup holder indent. Not a big deal for me and I’ll just think of it as a design element.
Does anyone happen to know the interior dimensions for a standard 84" Barrington (https://slickdeals.net/f/15434491-barrington-10-player-poker-table-no-assembly-required-153-at-walmart) off-hand?
Does anyone happen to know the interior dimensions for a standard 84" Barrington (https://slickdeals.net/f/15434491-barrington-10-player-poker-table-no-assembly-required-153-at-walmart) off-hand?
@rjdev7 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/1014/)?
73.5" x 31.5"
73.5" x 31.5"
My Barrington arrived today and the exact inner dimensions on mine are 74" x 32"
Got my Barrington today! $229 from Walmart. Maybe not the best deal but better than the $460 on Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/?tag=amznpcfx-20). Impressed with the quality for the money. Love the matte vinyl as opposed to what the old pics look like. Should work out great for now but can't wait to rip er apart. Of course I'm already thinking of thicker padding, real leather for the rail and replacing or eliminating the cup holders. Now I just need to settle on a what chips to get.
Got my Barrington today! $229 from Walmart. Maybe not the best deal but better than the $460 on Amazon. Impressed with the quality for the money. Love the matte vinyl as opposed to what the old pics look like. Should work out great for now but can't wait to rip er apart. Of course I'm already thinking of thicker padding, real leather for the rail and replacing or eliminating the cup holders. Now I just need to settle on a what chips to get.
View attachment 1204929 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1204929/)
highly recommend you replace or cover the cup holders first. They are asking to have spilled drinks. Also get a table topper.
highly recommend you replace or cover the cup holders first. They are asking to have spilled drinks. Also get a table topper.
They look more like ashtrays than cup holders.
They look more like ashtrays than cup holders.
Yup. A big waste. If you can get the table for $250 or less it’s worth investing the money you save in some upgrades. Cup holders, new felt/topper, chairs.
Got my Barrington today! $229 from Walmart. Maybe not the best deal but better than the $460 on Amazon. Impressed with the quality for the money. Love the matte vinyl as opposed to what the old pics look like. Should work out great for now but can't wait to rip er apart. Of course I'm already thinking of thicker padding, real leather for the rail and replacing or eliminating the cup holders. Now I just need to settle on a what chips to get.
View attachment 1204929 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1204929/)
@Tony (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/2929/)-m $229 is a great deal these days
Just finished the speed cloth upgrade. Pretty easy- about two hours of work. Next to add a betting line.
Just finished the speed cloth upgrade. Pretty easy- about two hours of work. Next to add a betting line. View attachment 1205390 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1205390/)
Where did you get your speed cloth? How do you like it?
Where did you get your speed cloth? How do you like it?
Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/?tag=amznpcfx-20). Came folded so hopefully the creases will relax over time and the durability is tbd. Otherwise seems like a pretty good value.
Just finished the speed cloth upgrade. Pretty easy- about two hours of work. Next to add a betting line. View attachment 1205390 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1205390/)
Probably a dumb question, but how are you going to add a betting line after you've already installed the speed cloth?
Probably a dumb question, but how are you going to add a betting line after you've already installed the speed cloth?
Draw it! Couple posts in the thread as an example.
Probably a dumb question, but how are you going to add a betting line after you've already installed the speed cloth?
Most likely he will measure, outline, and then paint one on the cloth.
Got my Barrington today! $229 from Walmart. Maybe not the best deal but better than the $460 on Amazon. Impressed with the quality for the money. Love the matte vinyl as opposed to what the old pics look like. Should work out great for now but can't wait to rip er apart. Of course I'm already thinking of thicker padding, real leather for the rail and replacing or eliminating the cup holders. Now I just need to settle on a what chips to get.
View attachment 1204929 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1204929/)
Thanks for the photo, @Tony_M (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/16516/) :
It looks like these newer brown felt tables also have the updated vinyl rails like the blue felt tables from amazon (https://www.amazon.com/?tag=amznpcfx-20) :tup:
Any advice on upgrading the Barrington cupholders? Just ordered the blue version on Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/?tag=amznpcfx-20) for $241. Thank you.
Any advice on upgrading the Barrington cupholders? Just ordered the blue version on Amazon for $241. Thank you.
Go slow with your saw bit. If you want anything larger than a solo cup get the X-Large ones.
Any advice on upgrading the Barrington cupholders? Just ordered the blue version on Amazon for $241. Thank you.
I opted to go with these: Amarine Made 10 Pack of Stainless Steel Drop-in Cup Holders (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SK296PL?tag=amznpcfx-20)
You can get whichever size you think will work best for you. What I most found available were 3.5" (usually called "jumbo"), the 3.5" "dual bottom" like what I went for, and the 2.75" diameter which is the size that Barrington used. 2.75 is perfect for mostly beer and soda cans/bottles. If you want to use rock glasses or wider bottles go for the jumbo or "dual" size.
To install it's fairly easy procedure but here's a few tips:
Wait till you get your cup holders so you can measure them exactly. You'll need to get a hole saw WITH ARBOR that matches or is just slightly bigger than the outside diameter of your cupholders.
Use a heat gun or hair dryer on high to heat up the bottom of the cups while you apply gentle pressure upwards with a screwdriver or other such lever. The heat will soften the glue and it will come up easily after about 30 seconds.
If you're going with the 2.75" you might be able to just drill straight down from the top. If you go for the larger size you'll need to locate the center of the existing hole. What I would do is make a paper circle the size of the existing hole, pierce the center of the paper circle and use that as a template to mark the center point with a pencil. Next you'll want to drill a pilot hole as straight as you can at the center mark through the table. Then mount the hole saw in your drill and drill from the bottom of the table. You'll want to go slow and steady. The pilot hole should help guide you but try to keep the hole saw straight and keep it from wobbling around or it could jam and cause the drill to yank.
Next you just pop in the new cup holders and you're done! If they're a little loose put some tape around them to tighten them up. If they are too tight (I only had a 3.5" hole saw which was not large enough) you can either sand/file the holes larger or, what I did was ream the sides of the hole with the hole saw by purposely AND VERY CAREFULLY running the hole saw up and down at a slight angle in multiple directions to widen the hole just enough to get a nice fit.
Hope any of that made sense.
Any advice on upgrading the Barrington cupholders? Just ordered the blue version on Amazon for $241. Thank you.
Thanks for saying how much you bought this for. I just checked it out and noticed it was on sale and picked one up for myself!
Blue one is now $221.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KLJTEEW/?th=1 (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KLJTEEW/?th=1&tag=amznpcfx-20)
Just got mine. It came in a day and a half, I am shocked.
This is the first poker table I've ever owned, and I have to say that I am very happy with it. Obviously the flop/turn/river felt is very cheesy, but the blue felt doesn't look bad. Either way, I plan on grabbing a custom topper.
The table is sturdy and the arm rest is comfortable.
The only drawback is that it is incredibly awkward to carry by yourself. It's not egregiously heavy, but unless you are 6 foot+ with a long arm span, it's pretty difficult to carry since there's no natural way to carry it.
Edit: I know everybody knows what it looks like. I just wanted to share how mine came packaged and my thoughts on it as a new PCF'er/poker player. I found nothing wrong with it.
Nice! There’s a third party carrying case you can buy. Makes it infinitely easier to move around when folded.
Look at that new raaaaiillll, I've got a barrington, havent even used it and here I am pining for one of theeeeesseee.
You can also put handles on it. I did that and got the bag for my table. Still heavy and awkward but I can carry it up and down two flights of stairs.
Just got mine. It came in a day and a half, I am shocked.
This is the first poker table I've ever owned, and I have to say that I am very happy with it. Obviously the flop/turn/river felt is very cheesy, but the blue felt doesn't look bad. Either way, I plan on grabbing a custom topper.
The table is sturdy and the arm rest is comfortable.
The only drawback is that it is incredibly awkward to carry by yourself. It's not egregiously heavy, but unless you are 6 foot+ with a long arm span, it's pretty difficult to carry since there's no natural way to carry it.
Edit: I know everybody knows what it looks like. I just wanted to share how mine came packaged and my thoughts on it as a new PCF'er/poker player. I found nothing wrong with it.
View attachment 1215764 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1215764/)View attachment 1215762 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1215762/)View attachment 1215765 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1215765/)
If you want to fix the "flop, turn, river" cheesiness, I've got the solution here for you: https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/made-to-order-custom-table-toppers.96993/ :)
The only drawback is that it is incredibly awkward to carry by yourself. It's not egregiously heavy, but unless you are 6 foot+ with a long arm span, it's pretty difficult to carry since there's no natural way to carry it.
Pick up a bag for it from Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/?tag=amznpcfx-20). You can put the handle over your shoulder and it is much easier to move around!
Global Storage Folding Poker Table Bag for 71" and 84"-Oval Poker Table,Two Sizes https://a.co/d/fY47YpU (https://a.co/d/fY47YpU?tag=amznpcfx-20)
If you want to fix the "flop, turn, river" cheesiness, I've got the solution here for you: https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/made-to-order-custom-table-toppers.96993/ :)
Trust me. I've been eyeing up that thread for awhile haha. I've gone through the google drive of customer pics a few times.
I'll check out the carrying bag. Thanks guys!
Is there a difference between the brown and blue felt top tables besides the color?
Is there a difference between the brown and blue felt top tables besides the color?
No, just the color.
No, just the color.
Are you sure? I was looking at both of them the other day. The legs looked different on the brown, and they market it as "premium."
Are you sure? I was looking at both of them the other day. The legs looked different on the brown, and they market it as "premium."
I think you may be referring to the Charleston Barrington? Walmart is selling the Classic with the brown felt (similar to the table posted above) for $229
Link (https://www.walmart.com/ip/Barrington-10-Player-Poker-Table-No-Assembly-Required/55465427)
Are you sure? I was looking at both of them the other day. The legs looked different on the brown, and they market it as "premium."
I have the brown felt version and it is the same as the blue one. They also sell a "premium" version that has brown pleather rails and supposedly heavier duty legs and plywood base but I haven't seen it in person. Frankly, the regular version is pretty well built and I can't see needing to get anything heavier.
There are quite a few variations on the Barrington table. Many different colors. Some with slightly different features.
There are even a ton more versions I have seen out there while paroozing FB marketplace. Most are very similar.
The brown rail is supposed to be the premium version. I have not seen one of these live. The ESPN has the lights and is also slightly larger for the playing surface and when you fold it up. It will not fit in a standard bag if you purchase one from Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/?tag=amznpcfx-20). There is a bag on Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/?tag=amznpcfx-20) that will fit it. I just don't have the link on hand. One better feature that the newer tables have, is the adjustable tension on the wire below the table. Also the newer tables have a matte finished rail.
I went down this more-confusing-than-it-should-be Barrington rabbit hole 2 weeks ago, and ended up with a "Premium" LED non-ESPN-branded version, from Walmart for $299. Black matte rails, and the playing surface (for custom topper purposes) seems a bit larger than the standard Barrington dimensions - pics below. (I believe I've read the same regarding the ESPN-branded LED table.)
See: Barrington 10-Player Poker Table with In-laid LED Lights, Brown and Black (https://www.walmart.com/ip/Barrington-10-Player-Poker-Table-with-In-laid-LED-Lights-Brown-and-Black/3963393753)
For the $70 difference over the non-LED "Classic" it felt like a good buy, though LEDs likely won't get much use. (Having said that... I've already attached a rechargeable battery pack and dimmer to the bottom of the table.)
As @Tony_M (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/16516/) mentioned the "Premium" (also apparently formerly called "Charleston") has a thicker "playfield," larger-diameter legs, larger cross panel/leg brace things, and apparently the cup holders are just over 1/8" deeper. Most retailers don't list them as "Premium" or "Classic" though - the easiest way to differentiate them in pics is that taller cross panel/leg brace.
I went down this more-confusing-than-it-should-be Barrington rabbit hole 2 weeks ago, and ended up with a "Premium" LED non-ESPN-branded version, from Walmart for $299. Black matte rails, and the playing surface (for custom topper purposes) seems a bit larger than the standard Barrington dimensions - pics below. (I believe I've read the same regarding the ESPN-branded LED table.)
See: Barrington 10-Player Poker Table with In-laid LED Lights, Brown and Black (https://www.walmart.com/ip/Barrington-10-Player-Poker-Table-with-In-laid-LED-Lights-Brown-and-Black/3963393753)
For the $70 difference over the non-LED "Classic" it felt like a good buy, though LEDs likely won't get much use. (Having said that... I've already attached a rechargeable battery pack and dimmer to the bottom of the table.)
As @Tony_M (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/16516/) mentioned the "Premium" (also apparently formerly called "Charleston") has a thicker "playfield," larger-diameter legs, larger cross panel/leg brace things, and apparently the cup holders are just over 1/8" deeper. Most retailers don't list them as "Premium" or "Classic" though - the easiest way to differentiate them in pics is that taller cross panel/leg brace.
View attachment 1216485 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1216485/)
View attachment 1216493 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1216493/)
View attachment 1216494 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1216494/)
View attachment 1216496 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1216496/)
View attachment 1216497 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1216497/)
I have not seen that version. I like it! Black or darker felt is nice if you are going to use a topper with it. That way, it won't be as noticeable if the topper doesn't reach all the way to the edge.
The ESPN has the lights and is also slightly larger for the playing surface and when you fold it up. It will not fit in a standard bag if you purchase one from Amazon. There is a bag on Amazon that will fit it. I just don't have the link on hand.
here is the one I got for my ESPN Hengme Poker Table Bag, Dustproof... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B58T54FB?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B58T54FB?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share&tag=amznpcfx-20)
Another difference is weight. The brown one for $229 is 82 lbs. The $299 table is 100 lbs. I do like the look of the black felt. Though I'd be tempted to re-felt it with suited speed cloth.
here is the one I got for my ESPN Hengme Poker Table Bag, Dustproof... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B58T54FB?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0B58T54FB?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share&tag=amznpcfx-20)
So that link shows three sizes, which one fit the ESPN table? I am likely (hopefully) getting one this week..
The one that fits the dimensions. 43x43
I picked up a 2nd table, and the new one from Walmart is on the left. I have the original? Order of topper and can confirm the new table is just a little bigger..if I measured right the new table is 32x74 surface. Does that sound right to others with new table?
I’m digging that new armrest
I picked up a 2nd table, and the new one from Walmart is on the left. I have the original? Order of topper and can confirm the new table is just a little bigger..if I measured right the new table is 32x74 surface. Does that sound right to others with new table?
View attachment 1219064 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1219064/)View attachment 1219065 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1219065/)View attachment 1219066 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1219066/)
There is variance in all of these tables and their sizes.
I picked up a 2nd table, and the new one from Walmart is on the left. I have the original? Order of topper and can confirm the new table is just a little bigger..if I measured right the new table is 32x74 surface. Does that sound right to others with new table?
View attachment 1219064 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1219064/)View attachment 1219065 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1219065/)View attachment 1219066 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1219066/)
I just got one from Walmart too.
Same size you measured
If anyone is in the NOLA area, this looks like the new armrest style for sale:
https://www.facebook.com/marketplace/item/1016018879513344/?mibextid=2JQ9oc
Hadn't seen the old rail in the same pic with the new rail. I want one. I do have one table still in the box. I'll use up my one time!
Maybe the new and better rail is the reason wayfair was selling the old model for $90 shipped a few months ago lol.
Maybe the new and better rail is the reason wayfair was selling the old model for $90 shipped a few months ago lol.
I hope not or I used up my one time. I kind of doubt it. Pricing screw up I'd bet. They could have moved them for quite a bit more.
Maybe the new and better rail is the reason wayfair was selling the old model for $90 shipped a few months ago lol.
that would still be an insane deal if anyone managed to scoop that up
that would still be an insane deal if anyone managed to scoop that up
Can confirm
Just bought a new one of these from walmart that got delivered today. Finally going to be able to crack it open tomorrow, excited and interested to see if it has the new rail or the old rail...
Good luck! They would have a home run if they just upgraded the cups
View attachment 1219268 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1219268/)
Just bought a new one of these from walmart that got delivered today. Finally going to be able to crack it open tomorrow, excited and interested to see if it has the new rail or the old rail...
That will have new rail. That's the one I grabbed a few weeks ago, see https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/barrington-poker-table-thread.30910/page-32#post-2302704
Really happy with mine so far after the first game on it, as were my players.
Good luck! They would have a home run if they just upgraded the cups
And maybe get away from always having the flop as part of the felt. That bugs my OCD. I will buy one soon, probably change the felt because of that.
I’m digging that new armrest
Just played on my barrington with the new armrest on it for the first time. It looks good in person and is super comfortable. We played & I dealt for 6 1/2 hours. I found it very comfortable the entire time. Also as a side note - we had 8 people and fit perfectly on the 84" table. I dealt the entire time and hardly had to stretch to reach chips or anything as a person who is 5'9. I am a little concerned about size when I move back home. The group that I will be playing with will be around 9 deep, but almost everyone is larger there. Not sure if the barrington will hold up then, but we'll see!
That will have new rail. That's the one I grabbed a few weeks ago, see https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/barrington-poker-table-thread.30910/page-32#post-2302704
Really happy with mine so far after the first game on it, as were my players.
Finally got it set up today (forgot to take pictures, I'm such a dummy) and it is a great table! Armrests are very comfortable, dealt nicely, barely have to reach for anything from the middle of the table dealer seat. Can't wait to show it off to the players I'm hosting in a couple of weeks!
I picked up a 2nd table, and the new one from Walmart is on the left. I have the original? Order of topper and can confirm the new table is just a little bigger..if I measured right the new table is 32x74 surface. Does that sound right to others with new table
Can confirm, my new table (brown felt) inner dimensions were exactly that.
First section of the rail is done with burgundy marine vinyl. What do y’all think?
Brass cup holders are on order.
First section of the rail is done with burgundy marine vinyl. What do y’all think?
Brass cup holders are on order. View attachment 1221941 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1221941/)
WOW fantastic job. Love that red!
that would still be an insane deal if anyone managed to scoop that up
Lol, we flooded it. Sold out very quickly.
First section of the rail is done with burgundy marine vinyl. What do y’all think?
Brass cup holders are on order. View attachment 1221941 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1221941/)
I’m kind of into this red and black mixed table look
No idea which version this is but Wayfair currently has one table on clearance/Open Box for $200:
Barrington 84" 10-Player Poker Table with Folding Legs (https://www.wayfair.com/furniture/pdp/barrington-84-10-player-poker-table-with-folding-legs-bbco1002.html?clearance=true)
I’m kind of into this red and black mixed table look
I was thinking of alternating red/black. But decided on all red. Burgundy from Joann to be exact lol
First section of the rail is done with burgundy marine vinyl. What do y’all think?
Brass cup holders are on order. View attachment 1221941 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1221941/)
Are you using a guide to help you? I’m thinking about it replacing the pleather and padding on my octagon and then my Barrington.
Are you using a guide to help you? I’m thinking about it replacing the pleather and padding on my octagon and then my Barrington.
Not really. Honestly I took the old rails and covered right over them. I’ve been lurking on these threads long enough to have a small amount of information which was enough. Supposedly the marine vinyl is hard to work with but wasn’t too bad. Take your time, use a lot of staples and hope you have good grip strength.
First section of the rail is done with burgundy marine vinyl. What do y’all think?
Brass cup holders are on order. View attachment 1221941 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1221941/)
Very nice - good job :cool
I was thinking of alternating red/black. But decided on all red. Burgundy from Joann to be exact lol
You don't know what you're missing :D
Maroon but close enough.
(not a Barrington but ...)
Very nice - good job :cool
You don't know what you're missing :D
Maroon but close enough.
(not a Barrington but ...)
Maybe I need to rethink the color scheme! That looks real good.
If it's been asked earlier in the thread I apologize, but for the ESPN style tables with the led lights, how easy of a project is it to swap the blue led lights that come with the table to a multicolor set from Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/?tag=amznpcfx-20)? How would you install the new ones? Any help and guidance is always appreciated.
If it's been asked earlier in the thread I apologize, but for the ESPN style tables with the led lights, how easy of a project is it to swap the blue led lights that come with the table to a multicolor set from Amazon? How would you install the new ones? Any help and guidance is always appreciated.
Probably about the same amount of work as buying a table without lights and just adding them.
More progress tonight! Cupholders will be here tomorrow and I need some more vinyl to finish before hosting tomorrow night.
I changed out the cupholders, the new ones are 3.5" wide, and fit full sized yetis (see picture). I drilled a pilot hole for the hole saw arbor by measuring the middle of the old cup holder holes, and then drilled with a harbor freight hole saw from underneath so that I wouldn't mess up the padding/cloth on top. It was really straight forward. I sanded the holes after they were cut until the cupholders fit perfectly! haven't even glued them in and I'm not sure that I need to. I did have to cut the leg frame for the 4 cupholders nearest to them.
If it's been asked earlier in the thread I apologize, but for the ESPN style tables with the led lights, how easy of a project is it to swap the blue led lights that come with the table to a multicolor set from Amazon? How would you install the new ones? Any help and guidance is always appreciated.
I need to do it. I think someone else on here made a post about the process. If I remember correctly you just have to take the rail off and there isn’t much afterward but when you do you have to be careful to not tear the felt, unless you are replacing.
I think I’m just going to replace my felt even though I have a topper. I like the diffuser that I’ve seen on some tables that chanman made for some of his builds.
Done! For now. New Barrington in the background will get emerald green ssc and brown leather rail.
Just upgraded a Barrington for a buddy. He saw mine and wanted his to get the same treatment. Also got a custom table topper for him as a gift because he deals Black Jack after tourneys sometimes.
Just upgraded a Barrington for a buddy. He saw mine and wanted his to get the same treatment. Also got a custom table topper for him as a gift because he deals Black Jack after tourneys sometimes.
Nice! Is that new vinyl on the rail? I just did mine and the red with brass looks classy. Nice job!
Nice! Is that new vinyl on the rail? I just did mine and the red with brass looks classy. Nice job!
Yup new whisper vinyl from Joann.
Here is a Barrington Table instruction manual.
https://medalsports.com/wp-content/uploads/2023/06/PK100Y23002_20230306_Rev.1.pdf
Done! For now. New Barrington in the background will get emerald green ssc and brown leather rail.
View attachment 1223105 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1223105/)View attachment 1223106 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1223106/)
What cupholders are those? Brybelly small ?
@gkar197 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/15953/) . Same question to you.
Which ones do you guys prefer?
What cupholders are those? Brybelly small ?
@gkar197 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/15953/) . Same question to you.
Which ones do you guys prefer?
https://a.co/d/8C5peTv (https://a.co/d/8C5peTv?tag=amznpcfx-20)
What cupholders are those? Brybelly small ?
@gkar197 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/15953/) . Same question to you.
Which ones do you guys prefer?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09YTQCLDK?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09YTQCLDK?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&tag=amznpcfx-20)
I used the stainless ones of these for my own table and the brass for this build.
What cupholders are those? Brybelly small ?
@gkar197 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/15953/) . Same question to you.
Which ones do you guys prefer
These are brass from Texas poker supply. Fit cans bottles and solo cups. Most ppl at my game drink cans or bottles which these are best for
On sale for $199
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Barringt...iates_ad_id=565706&campaign_id=9383&sharedid= (https://www.walmart.com/ip/Barrington-10-Player-Poker-Table-No-Assembly-Required/55465427?clickid=xwVwe1UtGxyPWQ32v63t0WpwUkFXhzxWIzucwE0&irgwc=1&im_rewards=1&sourceid=imp_xwVwe1UtGxyPWQ32v63t0WpwUkFXhzxWIzucwE0&veh=aff&wmlspartner=imp_101044&affiliates_ad_id=565706&campaign_id=9383&sharedid=)
On sale for $199
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Barringt...iates_ad_id=565706&campaign_id=9383&sharedid= (https://www.walmart.com/ip/Barrington-10-Player-Poker-Table-No-Assembly-Required/55465427?clickid=xwVwe1UtGxyPWQ32v63t0WpwUkFXhzxWIzucwE0&irgwc=1&im_rewards=1&sourceid=imp_xwVwe1UtGxyPWQ32v63t0WpwUkFXhzxWIzucwE0&veh=aff&wmlspartner=imp_101044&affiliates_ad_id=565706&campaign_id=9383&sharedid=)
Looks like the old model which I think has different cup holders and leather. Still a good deal though
Looks like the old model which I think has different cup holders and leather. Still a good deal though
Just ordered one of these a few weeks ago (at $230, damnit) and I believe it has the new rail. See pic below.
I picked up a 2nd table, and the new one from Walmart is on the left. I have the original? Order of topper and can confirm the new table is just a little bigger..if I measured right the new table is 32x74 surface. Does that sound right to others with new table?
View attachment 1219065 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1219065/)
Just ordered one of these a few weeks ago (at $230, damnit) and I believe it has the new rail. See pic below.
Gotcha. Maybe just an outdated photo then.
Most likely just using the older photo
Just upgraded a Barrington for a buddy. He saw mine and wanted his to get the same treatment. Also got a custom table topper for him as a gift because he deals Black Jack after tourneys sometimes.
Beautiful upgrades. Just gave me some inspiration to upgrade mine.
Done! For now. New Barrington in the background will get emerald green ssc and brown leather rail.
View attachment 1223105 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1223105/)View attachment 1223106 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1223106/)
Did you put foam under the speed cloth?
Did you put foam under the speed cloth?
Used the foam that was there. It’s fine for now. In the future I’d swap it out.
Used the foam that was there. It’s fine for now. In the future I’d swap it out.
Thanks for the tip. I may replace the foam while I’m replacing the cloth.
Thanks for the tip. I may replace the foam while I’m replacing the cloth.
I just put new cloth on top of the existing one. Didn’t think it was necessary to replace anything and still feels great.
Got started. Holders away from the table supports are pretty easy, but I ripped the rail on both…might do some pre cutting on the next 8.
View attachment 1140500 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1140500/)View attachment 1140501 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1140501/)
New cups are much better.View attachment 1140502 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1140502/)
These hold a normal rocks glass fine?
These hold a normal rocks glass fine?
Yep
I picked up a 2nd table, and the new one from Walmart is on the left. I have the original? Order of topper and can confirm the new table is just a little bigger..if I measured right the new table is 32x74 surface. Does that sound right to others with new table?
View attachment 1219064 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1219064/)View attachment 1219065 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1219065/)View attachment 1219066 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1219066/)
I can confirm that @rjdev7 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/1014/) toppers don't fit the new version of the table perfectly. I have the same ring around the entire table. It doesn't really make a difference in play but it is slightly annoying to see.
I can confirm that @rjdev7 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/1014/) toppers don't fit the new version of the table perfectly. I have the same ring around the entire table. It doesn't really make a difference in play but it is slightly annoying to see.
Ahh bummer! Haven’t tried mine. Easy fix. Glad you brought it to their attention!
These toppers making dealing so much easier!
Didn’t someone just share a link to buy the bags for carrying the toppers? Need to pull the trigger on those.
Didn’t someone just share a link to buy the bags for carrying the toppers? Need to pull the trigger on those.
Oh really? I might need to grab one of those. I've been using the box it was shipped in for months lol
I can confirm that @rjdev7 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/1014/) toppers don't fit the new version of the table perfectly. I have the same ring around the entire table. It doesn't really make a difference in play but it is slightly annoying to see.
I don't think this is a fair statement to make as all of my toppers are made custom to your order specifications. If the new tables are slightly different in size, any new order will fit them just like the older Barrington tables.
If you're saying that an order you placed for the older style no longer fits the newer Barrington tables, then that's probably true if the dimensions of the tables changed with the new model.
In general, I tell everyone, measure your table before placing an order. Some folks are ok risking it and using "standard" 73.5 x 31.5" dimensions but the new line of Barringtons makes this even more important now.
I don't think this is a fair statement to make as all of my toppers are made custom to your order specifications. If the new tables are slightly different in size, any new order will fit them just like the older Barrington tables.
If you're saying that an order you placed for the older style no longer fits the newer Barrington tables, then that's probably true if the dimensions of the tables changed with the new model.
In general, I tell everyone, measure your table before placing an order. Some folks are ok risking it and using "standard" 73.5 x 31.5" dimensions but the new line of Barringtons makes this even more important now.
You're right. I apologize. I didn't mean to bash your product, I love my topper and use it every game. But it is important to know that the "standard" 73.5 x 31.5" toppers that people already own may not fit perfectly on a new table.
It is 100% my fault for not double checking my own measurements though.
If you are drilling out cup holders, do not go bigger than 2.75", otherwise you will eat through the entire LED plywood sheet. Because of this extra depth you also do not need to cut the legs of the table unless your cup depth is over 2.5"
Can anyone else speak to this?
I was thinking about picking up a local ESPN table for sale and wanted to put these cupholders in it: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SK296P...R0YM928E&psc=1&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SK296PL/?coliid=ILQA7UPZ7RA&colid=36J5YR0YM928E&psc=1&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it&tag=amznpcfx-20)
Is this gonna be a problem specifically with the ESPN version of this table?
Can anyone else speak to this?
I was thinking about picking up a local ESPN table for sale and wanted to put these cupholders in it: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SK296P...R0YM928E&psc=1&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SK296PL/?coliid=ILQA7UPZ7RA&colid=36J5YR0YM928E&psc=1&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it&tag=amznpcfx-20)
Is this gonna be a problem specifically with the ESPN version of this table?
I just went with the 2.75. I didn’t know about the led board being messed with but I could look next time I break out my table.
Just saw a link for $149 at Walmart.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Barringt...s_cri_entp_e_n&cto_pld=Byr1OzUiAACab-KIhEV0NA (https://www.walmart.com/ip/Barrington-10-Player-Poker-Table-No-Assembly-Required/55465427?sourceid=dsn_cri_cd4843b9-d693-4dc5-943e-60b996ecdfb8&veh=dsn&wmlspartner=dsn_cri_cd4843b9-d693-4dc5-943e-60b996ecdfb8&cn=FY24-ENTP-CRM-Desktop_cnv_dps_dsn_dis_cri_entp_e_n&cto_pld=Byr1OzUiAACab-KIhEV0NA)
Just saw a link for $149 at Walmart.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Barringt...s_cri_entp_e_n&cto_pld=Byr1OzUiAACab-KIhEV0NA (https://www.walmart.com/ip/Barrington-10-Player-Poker-Table-No-Assembly-Required/55465427?sourceid=dsn_cri_cd4843b9-d693-4dc5-943e-60b996ecdfb8&veh=dsn&wmlspartner=dsn_cri_cd4843b9-d693-4dc5-943e-60b996ecdfb8&cn=FY24-ENTP-CRM-Desktop_cnv_dps_dsn_dis_cri_entp_e_n&cto_pld=Byr1OzUiAACab-KIhEV0NA)
Yes, and the one with black felt and LED's is $169.
Posted here: https://www.pokerchipforum.com/thre...-want-the-lighted-version.113075/unread?new=1 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/psa-barrington-table-149-at-walmart-169-if-you-want-the-lighted-version.113075/unread?new=1)
I picked up the brown one.
Such a good deal.
Such a good deal.
Yeah, crazy good prices. I had planned to wait a few months, but couldn't resist for $150.
And here I thought I had a good deal when I got mine at $229.... those bast*rds! :mad::mad::mad: If only I had room for a second table. LOL
Anyone who was on the fence at getting one of these better scoop it up now!
And here I thought I had a good deal when I got mine at $229.... those bast*rds! :mad::mad::mad: If only I had room for a second table. LOL
Anyone who was on the fence at getting one of these better scoop it up now!
I am thinking about picking one up just because and I got my ESPN for $150!
Whelp I didn’t plan on buying a new Barrington today but here we are. Snagged the LED version to replace my OG one that I’ve had for 3 years and is starting to show its age from being set up and taken down 100 times. Stoked to hear there is a near armrest material. I could look back through this thread but does anyone know the easiest solution to diffusing the LEDs?
And here I thought I had a good deal when I got mine at $229.... those bast*rds! :mad::mad::mad: If only I had room for a second table. LOL
Anyone who was on the fence at getting one of these better scoop it up now!
Me too! I just bought mine for $199 like 2 weeks ago. HAHA they played us.
Me too! I just bought mine for $199 like 2 weeks ago. HAHA they played us.
@Godzilla28 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/561/) you need to get in on this too.
Nothing will ever beat the $85 sale on Wayfair that we wiped out in a matter of minutes. That was legendary :)
Nothing will ever beat the $85 sale on Wayfair that we wiped out in a matter or minutes. That was legendary :)
View attachment 1236345 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1236345/)
I'm still pissed at myself for this. I was one of the first to see it, put it in my cart, and ..... instead of pulling the trigger, I walked away from the computer to find my phone so I could text a buddy and convince him to buy one too. 7 minutes later they were sold out and I missed out. Even my wife was upset I didn't instantly pull the trigger.
What’s the real difference between the Barrington poker tables: brown felt, blue felt, green felt?
What’s the real difference between the Barrington poker tables: brown felt, blue felt, green felt?
i should have said meaningful difference…
What’s the real difference between the Barrington poker tables: brown felt, blue felt, green felt?
The black felt is on the slightly more expensive table that has lights. It's also a little larger and thicker legs, 100lbs.
I believe the brown and blue are the same, a little smaller and lighter than the black, 80lbs.
I'm not familiar with a green one. Just look at the weight. If it's 80lbs or 100.
I went with the brown because it will be a second table and I wanted it to be smaller and lighter. If it was going to be my only table, I probably would've gotten the black. I would prefer the blue felt, but that one isn't on sale.
Correct. I was just trying to figure if there was a significant difference. The spec are a touch different and I think the quality of the felt, but I’m trying to figure out why the $150 or more difference between the “low end” and the “high end” (premium)
Correct. I was just trying to figure if there was a significant difference. The spec are a touch different and I think the quality of the felt, but I’m trying to figure out why the $150 or more difference between the “low end” and the “high end” (premium)
Post in thread 'PSA: Barrington table $149 at Walmart ($169 if you want the lighted version)' https://www.pokerchipforum.com/thre...-want-the-lighted-version.113075/post-2330326 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/psa-barrington-table-149-at-walmart-169-if-you-want-the-lighted-version.113075/post-2330326)
Here is a review of a new LED Barrington table that I just received today. The ESPN and the new Barrington LED are just a touch larger on the playing surface and the width when folded closed. I think it is because there is slightly more height to the rail due to the LED's. The cup holders on the new LED tables are a nice improvement to be just a bit deeper. The legs are a bit sturdier and thicker on the new LED table. Those are really the only differences from the classic table. And the 20 lbs of weight difference. The general quality of the newer tables are much better than the older style of Barringtons. New matte finish rail and better padding and more secure felt. The felt and padding on the old tables just didn't feel as tight. The new ones have a slight feeling more like a memory foam padding compared to a cheap thin piece of foam under the old ones.
I personally prefer the minor upgrades on the new black felt LED tables.
Mine is the mail and should be here tomorrow. :)
Post in thread 'PSA: Barrington table $149 at Walmart ($169 if you want the lighted version)' https://www.pokerchipforum.com/thre...-want-the-lighted-version.113075/post-2330326 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/psa-barrington-table-149-at-walmart-169-if-you-want-the-lighted-version.113075/post-2330326)
Here is a review of a new LED Barrington table that I just received today. The ESPN and the new Barrington LED are just a touch larger on the playing surface and the width when folded closed. I think it is because there is slightly more height to the rail due to the LED's. The cup holders on the new LED tables are a nice improvement to be just a bit deeper. The legs are a bit sturdier and thicker on the new LED table. Those are really the only differences from the classic table. And the 20 lbs of weight difference. The general quality of the newer tables are much better than the older style of Barringtons. New matte finish rail and better padding and more secure felt. The felt and padding on the old tables just didn't feel as tight. The new ones have a slight feeling more like a memory foam padding compared to a cheap thin piece of foam under the old ones.
I personally prefer the minor upgrades on the new black felt LED tables.
The LED one boasts a 5/8” thick deck, but the classic one makes no claim about thickness. Could the 20lb. difference also be a thicker deck?
The LED one boasts a 5/8” thick deck, but the classic one makes no claim about thickness. Could the 20lb. difference also be a thicker deck?
I believe someone said earlier that the LED table is MDF and the classic is plywood. So that's probably most of the 20lbs. The thicker legs are going to weigh a bit more as well.
I ended up ordering the LED table tonight figuring I like everything about it other than it's heavier. So going to return the classic.
Just get the bag and install some handles and it should be fine. Without those two, it is such a PITA to move and put away.
Just get the bag and install some handles and it should be fine. Without those two, it is such a PITA to move and put away.
Getting the bag for Christmas. Keep it clean in the garage.
Getting the bag for Christmas. Keep it clean in the garage.
Nice. Doing the guitar amp handle modification helps as well. My fingers are less likely to get smushed with the handles installed.
Nice. Doing the guitar amp handle modification helps as well. My fingers are less likely to get smushed with the handles installed.
What is this sorcery?
Seriously, what is the guitar amp handle modification?
The LED one boasts a 5/8” thick deck, but the classic one makes no claim about thickness. Could the 20lb. difference also be a thicker deck?
It looks like there is a decent amount of extra wood compared to an older classic Barrington.
What is this sorcery?
Seriously, what is the guitar amp handle modification?
https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/barrington-poker-table-thread.30910/#post-568844
This is from Walmart.com, on the LED table page. The turn and river triggered me. I know the people that take these photos usually don't know anything about the subject of the picture they are taking, but still.
This is from Walmart.com, on the LED table page. The turn and river triggered me. I know the people that take these photos usually don't know anything about the subject of the picture they are taking, but still.
View attachment 1238361 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1238361/)
You don’t deal out all the streets face down, then flip them over when you need to? :ROFL: :ROFLMAO:
This is from Walmart.com, on the LED table page. The turn and river triggered me. I know the people that take these photos usually don't know anything about the subject of the picture they are taking, but still.
View attachment 1238361 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1238361/)
As a former dealer, that stub still triggers me and I haven't dealt in over 13 years. lol And where's the cut card. "FLOOOOOR!!!"
As a former dealer, that stub still triggers me and I haven't dealt in over 13 years. lol And where's the cut card. "FLOOOOOR!!!"
Yeah, but dont you fan out the stub once all streets have been dealt? :ROFL: :ROFLMAO:
I fully endorse Barrington continuing to make their stock felts like this. The tackier the better! :ROFL: :ROFLMAO:
Just got the LED version from then Walmart sale. I learned how thin the vinyl is…
After removing the plastic cover, I set it on the floor standing up, with the flat, folded edge on the floor. In this position, the corners of the rail are the first contact with the floor.
I moved it slightly, on a berber carpet without lifting it entirely off the floor. Bad idea, rug burn:
It’s mostly hidden when the table is open, but this is a good argument for the table bag, even for storage.
Yeah, but dont you fan out the stub once all streets have been dealt? :ROFL: :ROFLMAO:
You don’t? I thought we were supposed to do that to make sure there are still 52 in the deck.
Just got the LED version from then Walmart sale. I learned how thin the vinyl is…
After removing the plastic cover, I set it on the floor standing up, with the flat, folded edge on the floor. In this position, the corners of the rail are the first contact with the floor.
I moved it slightly, on a berber carpet without lifting it entirely off the floor. Bad idea, rug burn:
View attachment 1238434 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1238434/)
It’s mostly hidden when the table is open, but this is a good argument for the table bag, even for storage.
Sharpies are your friends
Definitely an upgrade over my 3-year old classic Barrington!
Definitely an upgrade over my 3-year old classic Barrington!
View attachment 1238458 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1238458/)
Did you replace the cup holders?
Did you replace the cup holders?
Nope, those are what come with it! That’s fresh out of the box.
Nope, those are what come with it! That’s fresh out of the box.
Yeah it looks like the LED version, since it’s a little taller with the LEDs, can accommodate a little taller cup holder, so that’s what they put in. It’s not much, but it’s better than nothing!
Nope, those are what come with it! That’s fresh out of the box.
How deep are the new cup holders?
How deep are the new cup holders?
1 3/16” to 1 1/4”…ish
1 3/16” to 1 1/4”…ish
View attachment 1238600 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1238600/)
Ah so still gotta replace them if you want to try and prevent spills.
Ah so still gotta replace them if you want to try and prevent spills.
Yeah, it sure looks that way. I’m surprised they don’t make holes in the bottom deck like the mods that members here have done, and put in proper holders. It’s really not that much more work.
And clearly they understand how shallow the original ones are, or they wouldn’t have gone through the trouble of making new ones specific to the LED and ESPN tables.
Yeah it sure
Yeah, it sure looks that way. I’m surprised they don’t make holes in the bottom deck like the mods that members here have done, and put in proper holders. It’s really not that much more work.
And clearly they understand how shallow the original ones are, or they wouldn’t have gone through the trouble of making new ones specific to the LED and ESPN tables.
I just assume they see a shallow cup holder glued to the wood as more important than a useful cupholder that is deep enough to hold normal beverages.
If I could go back, I would get the jumbo cup holders from the get go. It’s slightly tilting that I can’t put my phone in it. :cautious:
If I could go back, I would get the jumbo cup holders from the get go. It’s slightly tilting that I can’t put my phone in it. :cautious:
Yea, same. I think my fear with the jumbos is having to do the extra cutting and getting it perfect center. Other than that, yea, jumbos all the way.
I decided to return the two I bought and purchase the LED version instead.
I don't actually care about the LEDs, but getting sturdier plywood and legs is worth the extra $20.
Just bought the LED version. Are the cup holders really that bad? We use a 20 year old foldable table at the moment that just has a little cut out for cups. Even with that we haven't had an issue and this seems like a massive upgrade.
Just bought the LED version. Are the cup holders really that bad? We use a 20 year old foldable table at the moment that just has a little cut out for cups. Even with that we haven't had an issue and this seems like a massive upgrade.
They're fine for cans but just "OK" for bottles (kinda shallow.) Rocks glasses, hydroflasks and 40's aren't going to fly, though, because of the diameter.
I've found that most players will sit dead-center behind their cupholder even on a less-than-full table, so inevitably drinks get smacked every couple of orbits on a shuffle or an overly-excited shove. No spills yet, but I'll probably end up replacing mine soon just for the extra depth.
Just bought the LED version. Are the cup holders really that bad? We use a 20 year old foldable table at the moment that just has a little cut out for cups. Even with that we haven't had an issue and this seems like a massive upgrade.
I knock over my chip stacks multiple times during a self dealt game and usually brush my pint at least once with my hand when it is in the holder in front of me. If I didn’t put the deeper cup holders in, I’d spill a beer at least once a night.
They're fine for cans but just "OK" for bottles (kinda shallow.) Rocks glasses, hydroflasks and 40's aren't going to fly, though, because of the diameter.
I've found that most players will sit dead-center behind their cupholder even on a less-than-full table, so inevitably drinks get smacked every couple of orbits on a shuffle or an overly-excited shove. No spills yet, but I'll probably end up replacing mine soon just for the extra depth.
I try hard to get players to sit between the cup holders. I personally hate sitting behind a cup holder, but I think that’s what everyone is used to.
I try hard to get players to sit between the cup holders. I personally hate sitting behind a cup holder, but I think that’s what everyone is used to.
The problem is that people end up trying to take up more room than they're supposed to, and other players are cramped. If it's a full table and I see that happening, I will tell people they should have the cup holder centered in front of them.
AKA: Move over dumbass!
The problem is that people end up trying to take up more room than they're supposed to, and other players are cramped.
There are a few things that can wind me up when playing poker and that is pretty much the top of my list. I hate being squashed and it was one of the most important considerations when building my table.
No space hogging at my (8 max) game :p
The problem is that people end up trying to take up more room than they're supposed to, and other players are cramped. If it's a full table and I see that happening, I will tell people they should have the cup holder centered in front of them.
AKA: Move over dumbass!
Well........................
Theoretically, if 10 players set directly between the cup holders they take up the exact same amount of space as if they sat in front of the cup holder.
I used to enforce this at my game, but it's definitely harder to enforce/explain than just telling people to sit in front of their cup holder.
LED tables arrived today and I opened one.
It is noticeably heavier and sturdier then the base model. I'm very glad I returned the others and got these instead.
Just picked one of these up because Walmart was selling them for crazy cheap. Not a bad table.
Taking it upstairs by myself was fun considering the table weighs almost as much as me haha
LED tables arrived today and I opened one.
It is noticeably heavier and sturdier then the base model. I'm very glad I returned the others and got these instead.
Nice! May I ask how are the LED lights powered? Is there a battery pack or does it plug in? I'd like to get one but would prefer not having a wire.
Nice! May I ask how are the LED lights powered? Is there a battery pack or does it plug in? I'd like to get one but would prefer not having a wire.
It plugs in, but you can apparently get a AA battery setup for it. It’s described here:
https://www.pokerchipforum.com/thre...ble-led-lights-any-ideas.102399/#post-2118542 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/adding-diffuser-to-espn-table-led-lights-any-ideas.102399/#post-2118542)
It plugs in, but you can apparently get a AA battery setup for it. It’s described here:
https://www.pokerchipforum.com/thre...ble-led-lights-any-ideas.102399/#post-2118542 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/adding-diffuser-to-espn-table-led-lights-any-ideas.102399/#post-2118542)
Yup easy upgrade.
What they said.
The adapter that comes with it has a very short cord, so a battery pack is the only really practical option.
But I bought it for the bump in build quality, so I probably won't use the lights often if at all.
I just bought an old style one - looking at toppers now, very exciting.
Finally finished my upgrade!
Replaced the blue felt with the reverse platinum suited speed felt from https://www.texaspokersupply.com/store
Replaced the useless cupholders with deeper and wider cupholders from amazon (https://www.amazon.com/?tag=amznpcfx-20).
https://www.amazon.com/YH-Poker-Jum...fix=yuanhe+10+jumbo+cup+holder,aps,177&sr=8-2 (https://www.amazon.com/YH-Poker-Jumbo-Stainless-Holders/dp/B0789HG6NW/ref=sr_1_2?crid=1GCBLKAD3AUU7&keywords=yuanhe+10+jumbo+cup+holder&qid=1702826390&sprefix=yuanhe+10+jumbo+cup+holder%2Caps%2C177&sr=8-2&tag=amznpcfx-20)
For these cupholders, using a 3 5/8 in hole saw bit worked perfectly.
I was lucky to not run into any problems with having to cut the crossbar below to make space for any of the cupholders.
My only other lingering idea for a mod is adding USB ports for phone charging. But I despise phone use at the table when it slows play, so I may need to think about it longer before I pull the trigger.
Just sold my original blue felt table to my friend. Used that to buy the $160 LED Barrington table. Thanks for putting me on that
Hello, I am considering replacing the cupholders on my barrington. Were you able to drill holes for the spots in the corners? I notice that it runs very close to the bar on the underside. Did you face any issues?
Hello, I am considering replacing the cupholders on my barrington. Were you able to drill holes for the spots in the corners? I notice that it runs very close to the bar on the underside. Did you face any issues?
New version with same size cup holders, no issue.
New version with jumbo cup holders, you’ll need to measure as I imagine it’ll be very close.
Old version with any, you need to cut the pipe down.
New version with same size cup holders, no issue.
New version with jumbo cup holders, you’ll need to measure as I imagine it’ll be very close.
Old version with any, you need to cut the pipe down.
amazing, thank you. I read a concern someone on this thread had about the cupholder possibly falling through the bottom. Do you know how likely this is to happen? Do I need to make a cradle like someone else did?
amazing, thank you. I read a concern someone on this thread had about the cupholder possibly falling through the bottom. Do you know how likely this is to happen? Do I need to make a cradle like someone else did?
Wrap the bottom of the cup holder with masking/painters tape. I did between 3 and 4 wraps depending on how loose it was. It provides enough thickness that the cup holder is semi-permanent without the chance of falling out.
Wrap the bottom of the cup holder with masking/painters tape. I did between 3 and 4 wraps depending on how loose it was. It provides enough thickness that the cup holder is semi-permanent without the chance of falling out.
Awesome. Will provide updates on how it goes.
Anyone have any hole saw recommendations? I read about people having bought ones that arent so good. Im looking to install regular sized cupholders
Hello, I am considering replacing the cupholders on my barrington. Were you able to drill holes for the spots in the corners? I notice that it runs very close to the bar on the underside. Did you face any issues?
Yeah so I didn't end up needing to cut the bar when replacing with the jumbo cupholders (But I think that was more dumb luck than good planning). However, there was more than enough space on the bars outside of the where its fastened to cut off with a hacksaw if necessary. Additionally, you will also need a special bit for your drill in in order to use whatever hole saw you get.
I ordered a regular one, it came in and sat in a box and I read some of these replies about the LED ones being sturdier, so I ordered it. Walmart took back the first one when I hauled it in to customer service. The LED ones are much heavier, which probably means sturdier.
I ordered a regular one, it came in and sat in a box and I read some of these replies about the LED ones being sturdier, so I ordered it. Walmart took back the first one when I hauled it in to customer service. The LED ones are much heavier, which probably means sturdier.
I dont really associate heavy with sturdy. Idk, the regular feels pretty study to me. I do think however the thinkness might help with how loud the table can be when someone bangs on it
Cup holders arrived. Thanks @rjbf65 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/2004/) for the tip on duct tape. I didn’t have any and used masking tape instead. Worked just fine with 3-4 wraps (or should I say orbits) per holder. Fits very snug, tight even. Without the tape the cup holders would definitely slip out rather easily. I should mention the lip on the new cup holders are smaller so you can see the old cup holder indent. Not a big deal for me and I’ll just think of it as a design element.
View attachment 1195832 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1195832/)
View attachment 1195833 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1195833/)
View attachment 1195834 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1195834/)
which cupholders did you buy? I tend to mind the little things like indents.
I just bought an old style one - looking at toppers now, very exciting.
Same! I just picked up an LED table. Also looking at those toppers and cup holders. So stoked that this'll make my home game even better.
Hopefully I wont run into any issues with the feet hitting the larger cup holders and it'll keep the foldability.
I joined the $169 Walmart special crowd. Can’t beat the price. Free shipping. $180.83 with tax, 48 hours from order to delivery. Kind of insane actually.
The lights are super bright so I have a dimmer on the way as well.
I joined the $169 Walmart special crowd. Can’t beat the price. Free shipping. $180.83 with tax, 48 hours from order to delivery. Kind of insane actually.
The lights are super bright so I have a dimmer on the way as well.
View attachment 1243972 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1243972/)View attachment 1243973 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1243973/)
Have you found the lights to be too bright when looking at your cards as well? I got the table a week ago and had it shipped to a friends house so I havent been able to test it yet.
After reading through almost every page of this thread, I am glad to say I successfully have upgraded my game. I sold my old Barrington and hopped on that sale. With the money I made from the sale of the old Barrington I bought the cup holders recommended on here. I bought the hole saw from Home Depot and returned it right after saving me $45. I couldn’t have done it without the help of everyone on here. Special thanks to @shleepytime (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/579/) who was a more than useful resource.
I'm in the middle of upgrading cup holders. I got one done but what'd you guys do on the ends with the buckle strap?? I feel like once I drill through the wood it's barely going to be hanging on.
I'm in the middle of upgrading cup holders. I got one done but what'd you guys do on the ends with the buckle strap?? I feel like once I drill through the wood it's barely going to be hanging on.
View attachment 1249200 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1249200/)
I cut the hole straight through it then added staples to what was left under the rail (while I was adding new felt). Haven’t had any issues.
With all of this cupholder talk, I wish Barrington just made a version sans any cupholders, and we get people to use drink carts instead.
I cut the hole straight through it then added staples to what was left under the rail (while I was adding new felt). Haven’t had any issues.
Yeah was trying to avoid taking the rail off. Was planning on just cupholders and a topper (for now). Thanks!
That strap isn’t taking too much stress anyways, it doesn’t need major reinforcement. It’s only keeping the table from flopping open when folded.
I'm in the middle of upgrading cup holders. I got one done but what'd you guys do on the ends with the buckle strap?? I feel like once I drill through the wood it's barely going to be hanging on.
View attachment 1249200 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1249200/)
I drilled right through mine. Not an issue. No need to remove rails either. Just drill from below if going jumbo sized
Was able to remove the strap, cut the hole and reattach it with a screw to the side. Worked out well. Thanks.
I'm in the middle of upgrading cup holders. I got one done but what'd you guys do on the ends with the buckle strap?? I feel like once I drill through the wood it's barely going to be hanging on.
View attachment 1249200 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1249200/)
Are the old cup holders just glued in? Do I just pry them out?
Are the old cup holders just glued in? Do I just pry them out?
Yes... Heat with a hair dryer for around 30 seconds to loosen the glue, then use a screwdriver to pry out
They will come out very easy this way
Yes... Heat with a hair dryer for around 30 seconds to loosen the glue, then use a screwdriver to pry out
They will come out very easy this way
Thank you. And just to make sure I have everything correct from Lord Foldermort
Replaced the useless cupholders with deeper and wider cupholders from amazon (https://www.amazon.com/?tag=amznpcfx-20).
https://www.amazon.com/YH-Poker-Jum...fix=yuanhe+10+jumbo+cup+holder,aps,177&sr=8-2 (https://www.amazon.com/YH-Poker-Jumbo-Stainless-Holders/dp/B0789HG6NW/ref=sr_1_2?crid=1GCBLKAD3AUU7&keywords=yuanhe+10+jumbo+cup+holder&qid=1702826390&sprefix=yuanhe+10+jumbo+cup+holder%2Caps%2C177&sr=8-2&tag=amznpcfx-20)
For these cupholders, using a 3 5/8 in hole saw bit worked perfectly.
Measure for the middle of the cupholder and then drill pilot hole for the hole saw and then cut from underneath. For the holders with the strap, just remove the strap, cut through and then just screw the strap back into the table. A little nervous here so just wanted to make sure. Am I missing anything? Any advise and guidance is highly appreciated.
Thank you. And just to make sure I have everything correct from Lord Foldermort
Replaced the useless cupholders with deeper and wider cupholders from amazon (https://www.amazon.com/?tag=amznpcfx-20).
https://www.amazon.com/YH-Poker-Jum...fix=yuanhe+10+jumbo+cup+holder,aps,177&sr=8-2 (https://www.amazon.com/YH-Poker-Jumbo-Stainless-Holders/dp/B0789HG6NW/ref=sr_1_2?crid=1GCBLKAD3AUU7&keywords=yuanhe+10+jumbo+cup+holder&qid=1702826390&sprefix=yuanhe+10+jumbo+cup+holder%2Caps%2C177&sr=8-2&tag=amznpcfx-20)
For these cupholders, using a 3 5/8 in hole saw bit worked perfectly.
Measure for the middle of the cupholder and then drill pilot hole for the hole saw and then cut from underneath. For the holders with the strap, just remove the strap, cut through and then just screw the strap back into the table. A little nervous here so just wanted to make sure. Am I missing anything? Any advise and guidance is highly appreciated.
Nope, that's perfect
Just got my Barrington LED delivered today. Didn't get the $169 special but did get $199.
Are there any cup holder upgrades that don't require sawing? This is my first real table and I am not the most handy person in the world!
View attachment 1252095 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1252095/)
Just got my Barrington LED delivered today. Didn't get the $169 special but did get $199.
Are there any cup holder upgrades that don't require sawing? This is my first real table and I am not the most handy person in the world!
If you want deeper cup holders you will have to saw through the table unfortunately. Super easy upgrade and well worth it! Congrats on the table
If you want deeper cup holders you will have to saw through the table unfortunately. Super easy upgrade and well worth it! Congrats on the table
Thank you. If it is that easy maybe I give it a shot!
Working on getting a custom topper for it. Any other easy improvements that I'm missing?
Thank you. If it is that easy maybe I give it a shot!
Working on getting a custom topper for it. Any other easy improvements that I'm missing?
Many here recommend a dimmer for the LEDs. I agree. I bought a dimmer and a rechargeable 12V battery pack that I installed on the bottom of the table using 3M command strips. I haven’t taken a photo of mine but I got the idea from @BLK21JK (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/13151/) and his photo here…
https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/barrington-poker-table-thread.30910/post-2302704
I bought:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B092HX9435?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B092HX9435?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share&tag=amznpcfx-20)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M7Z9Z1N?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M7Z9Z1N?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share&tag=amznpcfx-20)
Just played on my barrington with the new armrest on it for the first time. It looks good in person and is super comfortable. We played & I dealt for 6 1/2 hours. I found it very comfortable the entire time. Also as a side note - we had 8 people and fit perfectly on the 84" table. I dealt the entire time and hardly had to stretch to reach chips or anything as a person who is 5'9. I am a little concerned about size when I move back home. The group that I will be playing with will be around 9 deep, but almost everyone is larger there. Not sure if the barrington will hold up then, but we'll see!
I've also been wondering about table capacity and comfort. I'm hosting my first game on my new Barrington in about two weeks. Was thinking of limiting invites to 9 or even 8 players. What do you guys think? Anybody had 9 or 10 normal sized guys on one of these tables? Was it miserable?
I’ve had 9 for MTT and it is a squeeze for those of us with higher BMIs. We would typically only have that many for a couple/few hours until people got knocked out. I think it helps to have chairs that slide/roll up to and away from table easily. Would I like a bigger table, sure, but we use the Barrington size all the time because it doesn’t take up a bunch of storage space. So in the end, worth it.
I've also been wondering about table capacity and comfort. I'm hosting my first game on my new Barrington in about two weeks. Was thinking of limiting invites to 9 or even 8 players. What do you guys think? Anybody had 9 or 10 normal sized guys on one of these tables? Was it miserable?
I've hosted with 9 people since this post. My group was all military so we were all relatively skinny. It was pretty tight but manageable.
The @T_Chan (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/71/) felts posted in this thread look amazing! Anyone know if he’s still doing these? Also cost and best way to order?
I’ve had 9 for MTT and it is a squeeze for those of us with higher BMIs. We would typically only have that many for a couple/few hours until people got knocked out. I think it helps to have chairs that slide/roll up to and away from table easily. Would I like a bigger table, sure, but we use the Barrington size all the time because it doesn’t take up a bunch of storage space. So in the end, worth it.
9 is absolutely doable but 8 is the best.
I usually cap at 8 on mine (I'm playing dealer with auto shuffler on cart) but 9 is very doable.
I've also been wondering about table capacity and comfort. I'm hosting my first game on my new Barrington in about two weeks. Was thinking of limiting invites to 9 or even 8 players. What do you guys think? Anybody had 9 or 10 normal sized guys on one of these tables? Was it miserable?
We played 10 once and it was miserable. Most had to kind of sit sideways. We’ve played 9 and it is tight. If you aren’t fast food challenged, it’s doable. 8 is the perfect number.
fast food challenged
As someone who is fast food challenged, I can confirm 9/10 is tight, 8 is definitely the sweet spot. :ROFL: :ROFLMAO:
I've also been wondering about table capacity and comfort. I'm hosting my first game on my new Barrington in about two weeks. Was thinking of limiting invites to 9 or even 8 players. What do you guys think? Anybody had 9 or 10 normal sized guys on one of these tables? Was it miserable?
9 is totally manageable.
We do 8 + a dealer.
Def not 10.
“Doable” doesn’t mean comfortable though
View attachment 1252782 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1252782/)
For the authentic “playing in a submarine” vibe? :ROFL: :ROFLMAO:
For the authentic “playing in a submarine” vibe? :ROFL: :ROFLMAO:
Its the all in light! I like the submarine analogy more though lol "I'm going down"
Has anyone tried slide in cup holders (Amazon link (https://www.amazon.com/Leyndo-Pieces-Stainless-Holder-Holders/dp/B0CCS48H6P/ref=sr_1_2?crid=3DUFCLSNP7BW5&keywords=slide+under+drink+holder&qid=1704823890&sprefix=slide+under+drink+holder%2Caps%2C151&sr=8-2&tag=amznpcfx-20)) on their Barrington?
Has anyone tried slide in cup holders (Amazon link (https://www.amazon.com/Leyndo-Pieces-Stainless-Holder-Holders/dp/B0CCS48H6P/ref=sr_1_2?crid=3DUFCLSNP7BW5&keywords=slide+under+drink+holder&qid=1704823890&sprefix=slide+under+drink+holder%2Caps%2C151&sr=8-2&tag=amznpcfx-20)) on their Barrington?
Those wouldn't work at all, nowhere to slide underneath...
“Doable” doesn’t mean comfortable though
View attachment 1252781 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1252781/)
View attachment 1252782 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1252782/)
I don’t see many fast food challenged in that group either.
“Doable” doesn’t mean comfortable though
View attachment 1252781 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1252781/)
View attachment 1252782 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1252782/)
11 players?!? :eek:
11 players?!? :eek:
It was awful…. Had 9 confirmed and 2 maybes who ended up showing. I gave in and let them play after they sat on the couch for 30 minutes.
Never again.
So I finished my Barrington mods (for now) but still need to order a topper.
New LEDs, Dimmer, AA Battery Pack, and Jumbo Cupholders
COB LEDs
I wasn't the biggest fan of the blue LEDs and didn't like how they were so spaced out. I saw someone talk about the COB LEDs and how they are amost diffused already and ordered the warm white and couldn't be happier. The LEDs are very close together so you don't need to put something in front of them to diffuse them like I was trying to do with the old LEDs. Instead of ripping out the old LEDs, I actually just wedged the new LEDs right on top of the current ones. It worked out great.
I did have to cut the light strip and attach another tail end. Very easy to do but measure accurately before you cut! You don't have much leeway with the 16.4ft strip. And then used the Y connector that also came with the COB connector package.
Screwed and glued on some velcro, glued velcro to the battery pack, then buttoned up everything else. Happy with it.
COB LED Lights (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BVR755VK?tag=amznpcfx-20)
COB Connector Package (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C2CVFGL8?tag=amznpcfx-20)
Dimmer (https://www.amazon.com/weideer-Lights-Dimmer-DC12V-24V-K-018-BK/dp/B092HX9435?tag=amznpcfx-20)
Battery Pack (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09131Y9L8?tag=amznpcfx-20)
Jumbo Cupholders
I went with the jumbos after reading recommendations. Pried off the old ones with a vise grip, drilled a center hole down with a standard bit, then drilled from the bottom up with the 3 5/8in hole saw starting it the pre drilled hole. I got them all done but it was a bit of a struggle with the hole saw I bought. If I would do it again, I would get one that was deeper. This one barely made it through both pieces of wood.
Jumbo Cupholders (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0789HG6NW?tag=amznpcfx-20)
Hole Saw (buy a deeper one) (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0C6MN14B1?tag=amznpcfx-20)
So I finished my Barrington mods (for now) but still need to order a topper.
New LEDs, Dimmer, AA Battery Pack, and Jumbo Cupholders
COB LEDs
I wasn't the biggest fan of the blue LEDs and didn't like how they were so spaced out. I saw someone talk about the COB LEDs and how they are amost diffused already and ordered the warm white and couldn't be happier. The LEDs are very close together so you don't need to put something in front of them to diffuse them like I was trying to do with the old LEDs. Instead of ripping out the old LEDs, I actually just wedged the new LEDs right on top of the current ones. It worked out great.
I did have to cut the light strip and attach another tail end. Very easy to do but measure accurately before you cut! You don't have much leeway with the 16.4ft strip. And then used the Y connector that also came with the COB connector package.
Screwed and glued on some velcro, glued velcro to the battery pack, then buttoned up everything else. Happy with it.
COB LED Lights (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BVR755VK?tag=amznpcfx-20)
COB Connector Package (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C2CVFGL8?tag=amznpcfx-20)
Dimmer (https://www.amazon.com/weideer-Lights-Dimmer-DC12V-24V-K-018-BK/dp/B092HX9435?tag=amznpcfx-20)
Battery Pack (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09131Y9L8?tag=amznpcfx-20)
Jumbo Cupholders
I went with the jumbos after reading recommendations. Pried off the old ones with a vise grip, drilled a center hole down with a standard bit, then drilled from the bottom up with the 3 5/8in hole saw starting it the pre drilled hole. I got them all done but it was a bit of a struggle with the hole saw I bought. If I would do it again, I would get one that was deeper. This one barely made it through both pieces of wood.
Jumbo Cupholders (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0789HG6NW?tag=amznpcfx-20)
Hole Saw (buy a deeper one) (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0C6MN14B1?tag=amznpcfx-20)
View attachment 1252914 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1252914/)
Very nice! All you need now is a topper
So I finished my Barrington mods (for now) but still need to order a topper.
New LEDs, Dimmer, AA Battery Pack, and Jumbo Cupholders
COB LEDs
I wasn't the biggest fan of the blue LEDs and didn't like how they were so spaced out. I saw someone talk about the COB LEDs and how they are amost diffused already and ordered the warm white and couldn't be happier. The LEDs are very close together so you don't need to put something in front of them to diffuse them like I was trying to do with the old LEDs. Instead of ripping out the old LEDs, I actually just wedged the new LEDs right on top of the current ones. It worked out great.
I did have to cut the light strip and attach another tail end. Very easy to do but measure accurately before you cut! You don't have much leeway with the 16.4ft strip. And then used the Y connector that also came with the COB connector package.
Screwed and glued on some velcro, glued velcro to the battery pack, then buttoned up everything else. Happy with it.
COB LED Lights (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BVR755VK?tag=amznpcfx-20)
COB Connector Package (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C2CVFGL8?tag=amznpcfx-20)
Dimmer (https://www.amazon.com/weideer-Lights-Dimmer-DC12V-24V-K-018-BK/dp/B092HX9435?tag=amznpcfx-20)
Battery Pack (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09131Y9L8?tag=amznpcfx-20)
Jumbo Cupholders
I went with the jumbos after reading recommendations. Pried off the old ones with a vise grip, drilled a center hole down with a standard bit, then drilled from the bottom up with the 3 5/8in hole saw starting it the pre drilled hole. I got them all done but it was a bit of a struggle with the hole saw I bought. If I would do it again, I would get one that was deeper. This one barely made it through both pieces of wood.
Jumbo Cupholders (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0789HG6NW?tag=amznpcfx-20)
Hole Saw (buy a deeper one) (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0C6MN14B1?tag=amznpcfx-20)
View attachment 1252914 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1252914/)
These are just the improvements I want to make, thanks for posting.
After you make the hole through from underneath, do you need to cut slices in the edge of the vinyl/foam so the larger cup holder will drop in?
These are just the improvements I want to make, thanks for posting.
After you make the hole through from underneath, do you need to cut slices in the edge of the vinyl/foam so the larger cup holder will drop in?
I gently ripped out the foam, pretty much in-line with the hole saw. I did not cut the vinyl at all, I didn't want to in fear that over time a small slit could lead to a tear with use (people leaning on it, etc). The vinyl will stretch without issue when you put the jumbo cup holders in.
In a few spots the foam ripped out a little too much, causing a void that you could kind of feel around the edge of the cup holder. I just took the cup holder back out and jammed in a piece of foam and reseated the cup holder and it seemed to work well.
Also, be careful with the hole saw, you don't want to be pushing too hard when you reach the end of the wood and tear through the vinyl. The one I bought was barely deep enough (looking back maybe a positive) and I pushed through too hard on one of them and tore the vinyl. A little scary but it didn't do too much damage thankfully.
So I finished my Barrington mods (for now) but still need to order a topper.
New LEDs, Dimmer, AA Battery Pack, and Jumbo Cupholders
COB LEDs
I wasn't the biggest fan of the blue LEDs and didn't like how they were so spaced out. I saw someone talk about the COB LEDs and how they are amost diffused already and ordered the warm white and couldn't be happier. The LEDs are very close together so you don't need to put something in front of them to diffuse them like I was trying to do with the old LEDs. Instead of ripping out the old LEDs, I actually just wedged the new LEDs right on top of the current ones. It worked out great.
I did have to cut the light strip and attach another tail end. Very easy to do but measure accurately before you cut! You don't have much leeway with the 16.4ft strip. And then used the Y connector that also came with the COB connector package.
Screwed and glued on some velcro, glued velcro to the battery pack, then buttoned up everything else. Happy with it.
COB LED Lights (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BVR755VK?tag=amznpcfx-20)
COB Connector Package (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C2CVFGL8?tag=amznpcfx-20)
Dimmer (https://www.amazon.com/weideer-Lights-Dimmer-DC12V-24V-K-018-BK/dp/B092HX9435?tag=amznpcfx-20)
Battery Pack (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09131Y9L8?tag=amznpcfx-20)
Jumbo Cupholders
I went with the jumbos after reading recommendations. Pried off the old ones with a vise grip, drilled a center hole down with a standard bit, then drilled from the bottom up with the 3 5/8in hole saw starting it the pre drilled hole. I got them all done but it was a bit of a struggle with the hole saw I bought. If I would do it again, I would get one that was deeper. This one barely made it through both pieces of wood.
Jumbo Cupholders (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0789HG6NW?tag=amznpcfx-20)
Hole Saw (buy a deeper one) (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0C6MN14B1?tag=amznpcfx-20)
View attachment 1252914 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1252914/)
I didn’t know these LEDs existed, those are fantastic! Could should shoot a couple close up pics with them on and off? Would love to see how they look wedged in there.
So I finished my Barrington mods (for now) but still need to order a topper.
New LEDs, Dimmer, AA Battery Pack, and Jumbo Cupholders
COB LEDs
I wasn't the biggest fan of the blue LEDs and didn't like how they were so spaced out. I saw someone talk about the COB LEDs and how they are amost diffused already and ordered the warm white and couldn't be happier. The LEDs are very close together so you don't need to put something in front of them to diffuse them like I was trying to do with the old LEDs. Instead of ripping out the old LEDs, I actually just wedged the new LEDs right on top of the current ones. It worked out great.
I did have to cut the light strip and attach another tail end. Very easy to do but measure accurately before you cut! You don't have much leeway with the 16.4ft strip. And then used the Y connector that also came with the COB connector package.
Screwed and glued on some velcro, glued velcro to the battery pack, then buttoned up everything else. Happy with it.
COB LED Lights (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BVR755VK?tag=amznpcfx-20)
COB Connector Package (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C2CVFGL8?tag=amznpcfx-20)
Dimmer (https://www.amazon.com/weideer-Lights-Dimmer-DC12V-24V-K-018-BK/dp/B092HX9435?tag=amznpcfx-20)
Battery Pack (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09131Y9L8?tag=amznpcfx-20)
Jumbo Cupholders
I went with the jumbos after reading recommendations. Pried off the old ones with a vise grip, drilled a center hole down with a standard bit, then drilled from the bottom up with the 3 5/8in hole saw starting it the pre drilled hole. I got them all done but it was a bit of a struggle with the hole saw I bought. If I would do it again, I would get one that was deeper. This one barely made it through both pieces of wood.
Jumbo Cupholders (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0789HG6NW?tag=amznpcfx-20)
Hole Saw (buy a deeper one) (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0C6MN14B1?tag=amznpcfx-20)
View attachment 1252914 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1252914/)
Fantastic mods. I'll definitely plan on doing some of these down the road. I do have a couple of questions.
You mention pre drilling a hole prior to using the hole saw. This one has me scratching my head... How do you drill a hole in air!? Are you drilling it in the old cupholder? I don't think so since you also mentioned old cupholder removal.
Do the old LEDs come out pretty easily? Any tips on the process?
Thanks!
Nice job!
warm white
My general feeling with poker table LEDs is that anything other than warm white is a mistake, especially RGB.
Do the old LEDs come out pretty easily? Any tips on the process?
Instead of ripping out the old LEDs, I actually just wedged the new LEDs right on top of the current ones. It worked out great.
Fantastic mods. I'll definitely plan on doing some of these down the road. I do have a couple of questions.
You mention pre drilling a hole prior to using the hole saw. This one has me scratching my head... How do you drill a hole in air!? Are you drilling it in the old cupholder? I don't think so since you also mentioned old cupholder removal.
Do the old LEDs come out pretty easily? Any tips on the process?
Thanks!
Thanks!
Pre-drilling
What I meant by pre-drilling is just drilling a pilot hole through the wood as close to the center as you can get after you pull out the old cup holder. If anything just a hair closer to the playing field, not closer to the seating area (to avoid hitting the inside edge with your hole saw).
Then, after you have your pilot hole drilled, you know exactly where you need to start drilling with your hole saw from the other side by matching up the center drill bit of your hole saw with the hole you just made.
Go slow and try to recognize how deep you are so you know when you are close. You are going through 2 pieces of wood.
Removing LEDs
I did not remove the old LEDs. I just threw the new COB LEDs over the top of the originals to "see what they look like" but they fit so nice I just left them there. Kept the adhesive backing intact, but I did peel back about 4 inches on the ends exposing the adhesive since that does need to be attached securely at the table divide, and stuck it right to the current LEDs.
I didn’t know these LEDs existed, those are fantastic! Could should shoot a couple close up pics with them on and off? Would love to see how they look wedged in there.
Thanks! I was excited when I found them also. And I really liked that they were waterproof, not for the risk of spilling or anything, but because it meant that they would have a silicon rubber covering that would work perfect when wedged in.
Close Up of COB LEDs
Here are some close up pics. When you dim them down and look right at them you can see the individual LEDs still, but it is waaaay better than standard LED strips that have an inch or two space between each light.
Should still see plenty of light once I get a topper ordered also.
Thanks!
Pre-drilling
What I meant by pre-drilling is just drilling a pilot hole through the wood as close to the center as you can get after you pull out the old cup holder. If anything just a hair closer to the playing field, not closer to the seating area (to avoid hitting the inside edge with your hole saw).
View attachment 1253630 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1253630/)
Then, after you have your pilot hole drilled, you know exactly where you need to start drilling with your hole saw from the other side by matching up the center drill bit of your hole saw with the hole you just made.
View attachment 1253631 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1253631/)
Go slow and try to recognize how deep you are so you know when you are close. You are going through 2 pieces of wood.
View attachment 1253634 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1253634/)
Removing LEDs
I did not remove the old LEDs. I just threw the new COB LEDs over the top of the originals to "see what they look like" but they fit so nice I just left them there. Kept the adhesive backing intact I did peel back about 4 inches on the ends exposing the adhesive since that does need to be attached securely at the table divide, and stuck it right to the current LEDs.
Thank you. I'm officially a dumbass... I didn't realize there was wood under the cupholders... I guess I didn't pay much attention when I had mine out of the box - which was only for about an hour just to make sure there was no damage.
Can’t decide on speed cloth color, anyone passionate about a specific color and mind sharing some pics?
New table topper for the Barrington arrived! Thanks @rjdev7 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/1014/)
New table topper for the Barrington arrived! Thanks @rjdev7 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/1014/)
View attachment 1253945 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1253945/)View attachment 1253946 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1253946/)View attachment 1253947 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1253947/)View attachment 1253948 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1253948/)
Is this stock or a custom design?
Is this stock or a custom design?
This is available for reprint
This is available for reprint
Is it just a drop in insert?
Can’t decide on speed cloth color, anyone passionate about a specific color and mind sharing some pics?
F*ck it, went black on black. I’ll report back on my build asap.
Is it just a drop in insert?
You simply lay it over your existing stock felt. By far the easiest way to upgrade an inexpensive folding table. Plus it gets rid of the crease between the two halves.
https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/made-to-order-custom-table-toppers.96993/
Is it just a drop in insert?
Yes. So for those of us chip degenerates with a sickness :ROFL: :ROFLMAO: , it allows you to own 5 different "felts" and match them to your different sets.
Like this
…it was a bit of a struggle with the hole saw I bought. If I would do it again, I would get one that was deeper. This one barely made it through both pieces of wood.
Jumbo Cupholders (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0789HG6NW?tag=amznpcfx-20)
Hole Saw (buy a deeper one) (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0C6MN14B1?tag=amznpcfx-20)
I’m curious if the both pieces were glued together? If not, is it possible to drill through the first layer, remove the wood from the hole saw, then continue through the second layer?
Yes. So for those of us chip degenerates with a sickness :ROFL: :ROFLMAO: , it allows you to own 5 different "felts" and match them to your different sets.
Like this
View attachment 1254130 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1254130/)View attachment 1254133 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1254133/) View attachment 1254134 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1254134/)View attachment 1254135 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1254135/)
That Wynn is amazing
I’m curious if the both pieces were glued together? If not, is it possible to drill through the first layer, remove the wood from the hole saw, then continue through the second layer?
Yes, and this actually happened on two or three of the holes that I drilled. The hole saw was heating up the table so much that the glue will melt and get sticky and then as I was kind of rocking the hole saw back and forth a little the top part came off (which is the solid wood) and then the lower portion is just the extra ring that the cup holder sat in (that you are currently expanding for jumbos)
New table topper for the Barrington arrived! Thanks @rjdev7 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/1014/)
View attachment 1253945 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1253945/)View attachment 1253946 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1253946/)View attachment 1253947 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1253947/)View attachment 1253948 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1253948/)
That’s clean!
Table mods were a success... players loved the changes
Has anyone tried to put electrical tape or something similar over the leds to diffuse them a bit? They are way too fuckin bright.
Has anyone tried to put electrical tape or something similar over the leds to diffuse them a bit? They are way too fuckin bright.
Get a dimmer switch for them. If you are going to use the lights, a dimmer is a must!
Get a dimmer switch for them. If you are going to use the lights, a dimmer is a must!
I got one that was suggested on this thread and it barely makes a difference. Might try to black em out or just give up on em all together.
I got one that was suggested on this thread and it barely makes a difference. Might try to black em out or just give up on em all together.
I would respectfully disagree that it barely makes a difference. Turning the dimmer down to the lowest setting makes a huge difference from the unusable brightness of the full on LED's.
I would respectfully disagree that it barely makes a difference. Turning the dimmer down to the lowest setting makes a huge difference from the unusable brightness of the full on LED's.
Interesting. Perhaps I hooked it up wrong, I’ll give it another shot.
Interesting. Perhaps I hooked it up wrong, I’ll give it another shot.
Tried it again and the dimmer works wonderfully when plugged in using the included wall plug but makes almost no difference at all when using the battery pack that was suggested in this thread. Is there a trick that I am missing?
Can’t decide on speed cloth color, anyone passionate about a specific color and mind sharing some pics?
I have black and burgundy. Like the burgundy better.
Many here recommend a dimmer for the LEDs. I agree. I bought a dimmer and a rechargeable 12V battery pack that I installed on the bottom of the table using 3M command strips. I haven’t taken a photo of mine but I got the idea from @BLK21JK (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/13151/) and his photo here…
https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/barrington-poker-table-thread.30910/post-2302704
I bought:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B092HX9435?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B092HX9435?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share&tag=amznpcfx-20)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M7Z9Z1N?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M7Z9Z1N?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share&tag=amznpcfx-20)
How did you get these two to work together? The dimmer works great when plugged into the wall with the provided plug that comes with the table but when using the battery pack and dimmer it doesn’t work at all. How and what are you using to hooking the 3 together? I just be missing something. Any help would be great.
So I finished my Barrington mods (for now) but still need to order a topper.
New LEDs, Dimmer, AA Battery Pack, and Jumbo Cupholders
COB LEDs
I wasn't the biggest fan of the blue LEDs and didn't like how they were so spaced out. I saw someone talk about the COB LEDs and how they are amost diffused already and ordered the warm white and couldn't be happier. The LEDs are very close together so you don't need to put something in front of them to diffuse them like I was trying to do with the old LEDs. Instead of ripping out the old LEDs, I actually just wedged the new LEDs right on top of the current ones. It worked out great.
I did have to cut the light strip and attach another tail end. Very easy to do but measure accurately before you cut! You don't have much leeway with the 16.4ft strip. And then used the Y connector that also came with the COB connector package.
Screwed and glued on some velcro, glued velcro to the battery pack, then buttoned up everything else. Happy with it.
COB LED Lights (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BVR755VK?tag=amznpcfx-20)
COB Connector Package (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C2CVFGL8?tag=amznpcfx-20)
Dimmer (https://www.amazon.com/weideer-Lights-Dimmer-DC12V-24V-K-018-BK/dp/B092HX9435?tag=amznpcfx-20)
Battery Pack (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09131Y9L8?tag=amznpcfx-20)
Jumbo Cupholders
I went with the jumbos after reading recommendations. Pried off the old ones with a vise grip, drilled a center hole down with a standard bit, then drilled from the bottom up with the 3 5/8in hole saw starting it the pre drilled hole. I got them all done but it was a bit of a struggle with the hole saw I bought. If I would do it again, I would get one that was deeper. This one barely made it through both pieces of wood.
Jumbo Cupholders (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0789HG6NW?tag=amznpcfx-20)
Hole Saw (buy a deeper one) (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0C6MN14B1?tag=amznpcfx-20)
View attachment 1252914 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1252914/)
So I've ordered the hole saw. Should be here tomorrow. To do this properly, I need to fully saw through the wood? And did you start top down or from the bottom and does it matter?
Do I need to remove the rails to do this?
So I've ordered the hole saw. Should be here tomorrow. To do this properly, I need to fully saw through the wood? And did you start top down or from the bottom and does it matter?
Do I need to remove the rails to do this?
Yes, you need to saw through the wood. And no, you don't need to take off the rails.
More details here in a later post
https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/barrington-poker-table-thread.30910/post-2353631
So I've ordered the hole saw. Should be here tomorrow. To do this properly, I need to fully saw through the wood? And did you start top down or from the bottom and does it matter?
Do I need to remove the rails to do this?
I just finished mine last night with the guidance of this amazing group.
Remove the cup. I used a heat gun and it loosened up the glue and the cup just slid right out.
Find the middle of the cup and move a hair towards the table and drill a pilot from the top. No need to remove rail.
From the bottom, use your hole saw to cut through the wood.
Go easy as you will be cutting through 2 pieces of wood. I stopped after the first piece and then vacuumed out the dust to see where I was. Just so I didn’t saw all the way to the vinyl. The second piece of the wood is glued to the foam.
When I loosened the second piece of the wood I used a box cutter to trim the foam and be careful to not cut the vinyl.
I replaced some of the cut foam back to give it more cushion around the cup holder.
Pushed the cup holder into place and boom. Done!
I’m assuming you went with the 3-5/8” hole saw and jumbo replacement cup holders.
Hope this helps.
How did you get these two to work together? The dimmer works great when plugged into the wall with the provided plug that comes with the table but when using the battery pack and dimmer it doesn’t work at all. How and what are you using to hooking the 3 together? I just be missing something. Any help would be great.
Perhaps you could post a photo of what you’ve done? If it isn’t working for you, perhaps the battery pack is dead? You are using the rechargeable one or the one with AAs?
I just finished mine last night with the guidance of this amazing group.
Remove the cup. I used a heat gun and it loosened up the glue and the cup just slid right out.
Find the middle of the cup and move a hair towards the table and drill a pilot from the top. No need to remove rail.
From the bottom, use your hole saw to cut through the wood.
Go easy as you will be cutting through 2 pieces of wood. I stopped after the first piece and then vacuumed out the dust to see where I was. Just so I didn’t saw all the way to the vinyl. The second piece of the wood is glued to the foam.
When I loosened the second piece of the wood I used a box cutter to trim the foam and be careful to not cut the vinyl.
I replaced some of the cut foam back to give it more cushion around the cup holder.
Pushed the cup holder into place and boom. Done!
I’m assuming you went with the 3-5/8” hole saw and jumbo replacement cup holders.
Hope this helps.
Well done!!
How did you get these two to work together? The dimmer works great when plugged into the wall with the provided plug that comes with the table but when using the battery pack and dimmer it doesn’t work at all. How and what are you using to hooking the 3 together? I just be missing something. Any help would be great.
Those PWM rotary dimmers for LEDs are not bi-directional - you have to have the “input” pigtail connected to your battery pack and the “output” pigtail to the LEDs.
Easy to miss and not a big deal, unless your battery and/or LED strip has a M connector where you want a F connector - then you’ll need an adapter or need to cut/splice a connector or two.
I encountered this with the rechargeable battery pack that I’m using, but it came with a Y-connector cable with both M and F plugs so I shoved that in the chain and all was good.
First game tonight on the new Barrington. No mods yet, and I will NOT be using the LEDs! LOL.
I will be working on a custom topper in the very near future. And the damn cup holder SUCK!
First game tonight on the new Barrington. No mods yet, and I will NOT be using the LEDs! LOL.
I will be working on a custom topper in the very near future. And the damn cup holder SUCK!
View attachment 1258556 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1258556/)
Have a great time. My inaugural game is tomorrow night. UPGRADE THE CUPHOLDERS!!!!!!
I like the LED’s. The dimmer helps a lot.
Those PWM rotary dimmers for LEDs are not bi-directional - you have to have the “input” pigtail connected to your battery pack and the “output” pigtail to the LEDs.
Easy to miss and not a big deal, unless your battery and/or LED strip has a M connector where you want a F connector - then you’ll need an adapter or need to cut/splice a connector or two.
I encountered this with the rechargeable battery pack that I’m using, but it came with a Y-connector cable with both M and F plugs so I shoved that in the chain and all was good.
You are totally correct. Switched the plugs around and it works great. No idea why I didn’t try that before. Thanks man!
I like the LED’s. The dimmer helps a lot. View attachment 1258565 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1258565/)
Nice setup! You don’t actually use the blind buttons though right!?
Nice setup! You don’t actually use the blind buttons though right!?
no. It came with the dealer button. Thank you. Topper and I may change out to those Cob LED’s. Does anyone know of ones that can change colors?
no. It came with the dealer button. Thank you. Topper and I may change out to those Cob LED’s. Does anyone know of ones that can change colors?
I spotted some on Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/?tag=amznpcfx-20), but they’re more expensive. Some in the $30 range don’t have adapters, etc.
This one looks to have it all, but have no idea the quality of the product:
https://a.co/d/9x2KBAo (https://a.co/d/9x2KBAo?tag=amznpcfx-20)
With all of this cupholder talk, I wish Barrington just made a version sans any cupholders, and we get people to use drink carts instead.
Agreed the cupholders are annoying, would be cleaner without
I have the newer, larger version of the Barrington and I find the cup holders to be acceptable in my opinion. The lights were awful until I added the dimmer though.
I see currently Walmart has regular table for $169 and the LED version for $199.
Apart from the LEDs, is there any difference? Is it worth getting the LED table if I don't plan on using them?
I see currently Walmart has regular table for $169 and the LED version for $199.
Apart from the LEDs, is there any difference? Is it worth getting the LED table if I don't plan on using them?
Thicker hardware (heavier metal tubing) for the legs, and a thicker wood for the main deck. Even if you never use the LED lights, I think the other differences make the $30 bump worth it.
I see currently Walmart has regular table for $169 and the LED version for $199.
Apart from the LEDs, is there any difference? Is it worth getting the LED table if I don't plan on using them?
The cupholders are a bit deeper too, I find them to work fine with cans.
Yes! My first time I used 1/4" ensolite from foambymail
2nd and last time I did it, I got 1/3" open cell from TPS. Highly recommend!
What made you go for a thicker foam, and did you add the thicker foam on the standard version or on the espn version?
What made you go for a thicker foam, and did you add the thicker foam on the standard version or on the espn version?
I think it was due to availability at the time, 1/4" open cell was always sold out then. 1/3" was the next best option. All done on the standard pre-2023 barrington table.
Thanks to the advice above, I was able to do the cupholder upgrade, very happy with the finished product. Dimmer arrives tomorrow to settle down those LEDs.
As someone who is not handy at all, it was a little tougher than I expected, so here are my thoughts from that perspective.
Removing old cupholders - took a good 2 minutes with my travel hair dryer to soften up the glue. Fortunately this coincided with the overheat cutoff so that gave me a good indicator that it was done. Some of them seemed to have too much glue in them which made it quite messy and this spilled over onto the vinyl requiring some cleanup.
Cutting holes - definitely need the right tools for this job. I tried with the $15 Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/?tag=amznpcfx-20) hole cutter and it busted after 3 holes. Stuck mid project, my only option was a Milwaukee hole cutter at Ace for $60. By far the most expensive part of the project, but I am set for life for 3-5/8" holes. You'll also want a drill with a handle to keep it steady. Mine flew out of my hands a couple of times tearing the crap out of the underside of the table and leaving me with a few bruises.
New cupholders. First I tried not removing any foam and just forcing it in. This created a nice tight fit but did leave a minor crease in the vinyl that I would notice. Next I tried trimming away some of the foam as mentioned by others. This worked well, although not as tight and it was hard to recover from removing too much foam. Finally I tried cutting small slits around the foam about half an inch apart. This allowed the foam to bend downwards without creating a crease. A very tight fit, I even need a rubber mallet to get one of them in.
As an aside, my table arrived slightly damaged, just some cosmetic blemishes on the wood under the rail. When I called Walmart to process the return, they gave me a refund but told me to keep the table. So I really felt like I was playing with house money even if I completely effed it up.
I will need to get a slightly larger topper from @rjdev7 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/1014/).
"When I called Walmart to process the return, they gave me a refund but told me to keep the table."
Well done
Thanks to the advice above, I was able to do the cupholder upgrade, very happy with the finished product. Dimmer arrives tomorrow to settle down those LEDs.
As someone who is not handy at all, it was a little tougher than I expected, so here are my thoughts from that perspective.
Removing old cupholders - took a good 2 minutes with my travel hair dryer to soften up the glue. Fortunately this coincided with the overheat cutoff so that gave me a good indicator that it was done. Some of them seemed to have too much glue in them which made it quite messy and this spilled over onto the vinyl requiring some cleanup.
Cutting holes - definitely need the right tools for this job. I tried with the $15 Amazon hole cutter and it busted after 3 holes. Stuck mid project, my only option was a Milwaukee hole cutter at Ace for $60. By far the most expensive part of the project, but I am set for life for 3-5/8" holes. You'll also want a drill with a handle to keep it steady. Mine flew out of my hands a couple of times tearing the crap out of the underside of the table and leaving me with a few bruises.
New cupholders. First I tried not removing any foam and just forcing it in. This created a nice tight fit but did leave a minor crease in the vinyl that I would notice. Next I tried trimming away some of the foam as mentioned by others. This worked well, although not as tight and it was hard to recover from removing too much foam. Finally I tried cutting small slits around the foam about half an inch apart. This allowed the foam to bend downwards without creating a crease. A very tight fit, I even need a rubber mallet to get one of them in.
As an aside, my table arrived slightly damaged, just some cosmetic blemishes on the wood under the rail. When I called Walmart to process the return, they gave me a refund but told me to keep the table. So I really felt like I was playing with house money even if I completely effed it up.
I will need to get a slightly larger topper from @rjdev7 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/1014/).
View attachment 1264475 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1264475/)
Did the topper you ordered too small? Just wanted to make because I’m getting ready to order as well and just wanted to make sure I selected the right size.
Thanks
Did the topper you ordered too small? Just wanted to make because I’m getting ready to order as well and just wanted to make sure I selected the right size.
Thanks
As long as you measured your table and didn't rely on what someone else told you, it will be cut to your exact table's dimensions.
Did the topper you ordered too small? Just wanted to make because I’m getting ready to order as well and just wanted to make sure I selected the right size.
Thanks
No this is my old topper that I use on a smaller table. For my next topper I plan to order size 74.25" x 32.25" recommended in @rjdev7 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/1014/) topper thread.
I have the newer, larger version of the Barrington and I find the cup holders to be acceptable in my opinion. The lights were awful until I added the dimmer though.
What do you mean "larger version?" Which model? I've never seen a Barrington that holds anything bigger than a 12 oz can. I need something that will hold my rocks glasses or my insulated cup.
What do you mean "larger version?" Which model? I've never seen a Barrington that holds anything bigger than a 12 oz can. I need something that will hold my rocks glasses or my insulated cup.
The LED version is slightly larger play area, and is a little deeper. The cup holders are a bit deeper as well, but it’s really minimal difference…like 1/2”.
Getting the wider, deeper cup holders from Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/?tag=amznpcfx-20) and doing the modification with a hole saw is definitely the way to go. I have the cup holders and looking forward to finding time to do the mod.
The LED version is slightly larger play area, and is a little deeper. The cup holders are a bit deeper as well, but it’s really minimal difference…like 1/2”.
Getting the wider, deeper cup holders from Amazon and doing the modification with a hole saw is definitely the way to go. I have the cup holders and looking forward to finding time to do the mod.
I have the LED version. I've just never before heard anyone say they were satisfied with the stock cup holders.
I find the cup holders usable, but would prefer bigger ones. Solo cups for beer fits fine and for whiskey I use rock glasses that come with holiday bourbon box packages. The bigger glasses like Woodford don't fit, but ones like the Knob Creek are a perfect fit. I also put tray tables to the side for those with larger cups.
I don't have the equipment to upgrade the cup holders, nor the patience. Plus I'm lazy and would probably mess something up. It's not a biggie since I make it work.
I think pretty much all of these style cup holders end up looking pretty rough. My stock Barrington ones did after like 5 uses. Think I'm going to get some thin coasters for them.
Yes, very noticeable. Huge improvement and highly recommended.
What difference does it make exactly?
So what's the recommended cup holder size for replacing the stupid small ones on the Barrington tables?
So what's the recommended cup holder size for replacing the stupid small ones on the Barrington tables?
Great post here with upgrades on cup holders, dimmer, etc.
https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/barrington-poker-table-thread.30910/page-38#post-2352520
And the cup holder process here:
https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/barrington-poker-table-thread.30910/page-38#post-2353631
What difference does it make exactly?
If I was talking about the upgraded hinge…it made the table much more stable, it fixed the breakable, cheap feeling of the stock hinges. And folded up much smoother too.
If I was talking about the upgraded hinge…it made the table much more stable, it fixed the breakable, cheap feeling of the stock hinges. And folded up much smoother too.
@dkellerd (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/5486/) - Is there a link or thread explaining this more?
@dkellerd (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/5486/) - Is there a link or thread explaining this more?
https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/barrington-poker-table-thread.30910/post-1701631
Anyone get one recently and does your’s lean towards one leg? I feel like my new Barrington table has one side that’s taller than the other
Anyone get one recently and does your’s lean towards one leg? I feel like my new Barrington table has one side that’s taller than the other
Mines level. Might consider sticking a level on the floor and table top to check.
Mines level. Might consider sticking a level on the floor and table top to check.
My 3 others are level. The new is definitely not. One end is about 1° slope where the other half is level.
My 3 others are level. The new is definitely not. One end is about 1° slope where the other half is level.
Not sure if this is your issue, but have you tried adjusting the tension wire under the table? It is there to adjust the angle between the two halves of the table.
When I'm drilling the holes from the bottom of the table, the hole saw keeps hitting small nails coming in from the outer edge of the table. Has anyone else had this problem?
When I'm drilling the holes from the bottom of the table, the hole saw keeps hitting small nails coming in from the outer edge of the table. Has anyone else had this problem?
I did not and just did this with 4 tables. Biggest issues were the legs getting in the way and I needed a pipe cutter and then the drill itself would seize and go spinning into my calf (I have a huge bruise from it lol). My suggestion is go slow and don't put a lot of downward pressure on the drill, let the weight of it and the hole saw do all the work.
My suggestion is go slow and don't put a lot of downward pressure on the drill, let the weight of it and the ho
Yeah, I moved my center holes a half inch toward the middle of the table and solved the first problem, but probably was using too much pressure and may have burned out my drill (which started smoking). I'll let it cool off and try again.
the 3.5" "dual bottom" like what I went for
Does the dual bottom version you went with fit a beer/Coke can so it goes all the way to the bottom? Looking at what Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/?tag=amznpcfx-20) shows as the dimensions it seems it might be a little too narrow.
I went with the jumbos after reading recommendations.
Did the folding legs or anything get in the way of the new cup holders? I saw where someone said they had to drill into a leg or rail; something like that. Unfortunately I forgot to bookmark it.
Does the dual bottom version you went with fit a beer/Coke can so it goes all the way to the bottom? Looking at what Amazon shows as the dimensions it seems it might be a little too narrow.
Yes, standard bottles/cans fit in the narrower section. Rock glasses will sit on the wider section albeit the ones I have are a little bit wobbly. I solved this by getting rubber 3.5" coasters that can be inserted to bridge the gap and make my rock glasses sit steady.
As for the legs, the newer version of the table does not have the issue you read about. No worries about the legs in the way of drilling either sized cup holder.
Did the folding legs or anything get in the way of the new cup holders? I saw where someone said they had to drill into a leg or rail; something like that. Unfortunately I forgot to bookmark it.
I read that somewhere too, but didn't have an issue. Like @Tony_M (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/16516/) mentioned, I believe the issue is resolved if it's one of the newer tables
I read that somewhere too, but didn't have an issue. Like @Tony_M (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/16516/) mentioned, I believe the issue is resolved if it's one of the newer tables
The newer tables the legs are placed in a better spot. The older ones, just get a pipe cutter. I got the RIDGID 1/4 in. to 1-1/8 in. 101 Close Quarters Copper, Aluminum, Brass, and Plastic Tubing Cutter, Multi-Use Tubing Tool from Home Depot. I took the legs off, drilled the new holes, then put the legs roughly back on to see where I needed to cut, then removed anywhere from .5 to 1.5 off the legs.
I finally used my table last week. Instead of the battery pack posted either here or in another tread, I bought this rechargeable pack and it worked great. Used the dimmer with it as well.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MHNQIR2?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MHNQIR2?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_product_details&tag=amznpcfx-20)
After removing the cupholders and drilling the pilot holes, did you flip the table over to use the holesaw from the bottom side?
After removing the cupholders and drilling the pilot holes, did you flip the table over to use the holesaw from the bottom side?
Yes. Do not try to do it from the top
Yes. Do not try to do it from the top
But do you actually flip the table to the felt side? May be a dumb question, but I'm trying to find the best way
But do you actually flip the table to the felt side? May be a dumb question, but I'm trying to find the best way
Yes, flip it over face down. If you need some space like I did towards the end I put a 2x4 with a towel over it to prop it up a little bit so that my drill wouldn't hit the floor.
And be CAREFUL when you finally break through the wood that you don't push down too far and cut your rail!
Thank you!
I did it from the top without any issues.
I did it from the top without any issues.
With jumbo cup holders? How?
Oh no, not jumbos.
But do you actually flip the table to the felt side? May be a dumb question, but I'm trying to find the best way
I did it with the table upright from below but if you're not used to doing these sort of things it's best to flip it over like @greedyintern (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/17235/) says. Definitely put something underneath if you prefer your floor to not have random holes in it.
Also @Tony_M (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/16516/) , I just bought your same cupholders with the dual level. Going to see how I like them compared to my current jumbos. The rubber coaster that you mentioned earlier, where'd you get it?
3 holes down!
Also @Tony_M (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/16516/) , I just bought your same cupholders with the dual level. Going to see how I like them compared to my current jumbos. The rubber coaster that you mentioned earlier, where'd you get it?
I got these from Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09WQCGMXW?tag=amznpcfx-20). They're not perfect. Ideally they would be more rigid and slightly smaller to fit but they seem to do the trick.
https://www.finn.no/bap/webstore/ad.html?finnkode=327997047&ci=4
This seems to be really similar to the $169 walmart barrington table.
Only difference is in Norway it retails for $899, but with a discount it's available for "only" $499.
https://www.finn.no/bap/webstore/ad.html?finnkode=327997047&ci=4
This seems to be really similar to the $169 walmart barrington table.
Only difference is in Norway it retails for $899, but with a discount it's available for "only" $499.
I can't read any text, but it looks like the prior version (1-2 years ago) of the Barrington. The only difference is the lettering on my Barrington is yellow...the one in the ad looks grey.
Thanks! I was excited when I found them also. And I really liked that they were waterproof, not for the risk of spilling or anything, but because it meant that they would have a silicon rubber covering that would work perfect when wedged in.
View attachment 1253641 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1253641/)
Close Up of COB LEDs
Here are some close up pics. When you dim them down and look right at them you can see the individual LEDs still, but it is waaaay better than standard LED strips that have an inch or two space between each light.
View attachment 1253642 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1253642/) View attachment 1253643 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1253643/)
Should still see plenty of light once I get a topper ordered also.
View attachment 1253644 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1253644/)
Thanks for sharing the in depth info. Have you come across any led strips that were capable of changing colors? I picked up a Govee rope led (the one for desks) the other day but unfortunately it is too tall and sits flush with the rail. I haven't been able to track down a similar style with such a low profile.
Thanks for sharing the in depth info. Have you come across any led strips that were capable of changing colors? I picked up a Govee rope led (the one for desks) the other day but unfortunately it is too tall and sits flush with the rail. I haven't been able to track down a similar style with such a low profile.
Sadly I did not find any COB RGB ones that were 8mm. Majority were 12mm. You could try it, it might work? The 8mm fit so snug on my first attempt though, I wasn't going to press my luck with anything else.
But if you really want the RGB, give it a go. Try to find something with free returns if it doesn't work out. I'll circle back if I find anything.
Anyone get one recently and does your’s lean towards one leg? I feel like my new Barrington table has one side that’s taller than the other
You know that the tension wire can be adjusted, right? When I first set mine up, I thought I was going to have to send it back because it was so unlevel. Then I looked at the manual and realized I just needed to adjust the wire. Now it's perfect.
Hey new member here who soaked up a ton of great tips from you guys. thanks! I figured I would wait for my first post until I had goodies so here is pics of my upgrade including a deep rail conversion.
View attachment 1288802 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1288802/)
original got from walmart for $168 and my old
chips
I won’t post all my pictures because some are the basic teardown that I’ve seen here so nothing new but haven’t seen much rail picture help. so here’s my contribution if you want to upgrade the rails. I decided to go no cupholders and use drink tables for personal preference
I bought a roll of 1” foam and fake leather from Joann fabric. the roll was enough for all the rail pieces and 40 filler circles for the cupholder holes (personal pref I saw a couple people say they left the holes and didn’t notice much) I also got 3yd unsuited speed cloth II from YAT
for the covering size I went with one pack of Luckys around the rail pieces redneck engineering I know
finished product
Looks great but no cup holders? You would’ve won the upgrade in my book
Looks great but no cup holders? You would’ve won the upgrade in my book
thank you. yeah decided against cupholders I’m not a huge fan of them and prefer more arm area and small drink tables to keep drinks below table level. but I see the benefits either way
I recently upgraded my cup holders after a couple of close calls of having drinks spilled onto the playing surface. The cup holders that come with the table are a joke (a very cruel and sad joke). If you're on the fence about upgrading yours, don't delay. Get them upgraded. They're a huge improvement.
I was really encouraged by the posts by @dmoney (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/3698/) and @greedyintern (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/17235/). Huge shout out to them and their guides. Those helped tremendously. This is dedicated to @Saoliver (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/1603/) who asked for a video (in the thread - not to me personally) but this is as close to a video I could muster. I hope this is helpful. :)
Items/tools:
Replacement cup holders (https://www.amazon.com/YH-Poker-Jumbo-Stainless-Holders/dp/B0789HG6NW/?tag=amznpcfx-20)
Gloves
Eye protection
Auto trim removal tool (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C6V39SVH?tag=amznpcfx-20)
Screwdriver
Hole saw (3 5/8") (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01987566S?tag=amznpcfx-20) - (In retrospect, I would have used a different hole saw. Maybe the Milwaukee one)
Tape measure
Cardboard sheet
Hole saw arbor
1/4" drill bit
1/8" drill bit
Screw
Drill
Hair dryer (not pictured)
Step 1: Remove original cup holders
This step is pretty simple. Set the hairdryer on high heat and keep it approximately 1 inch away from the cup holder for about a minute. Most of the cup holders will only require a minute for the glue to loosen up. I only had a couple that needed more time. For those, I did it again for another minute.
After the hairdryer, use the auto trim tool to pry the cup holder away from the loose glue. Work the tool around the cup holder while gently pulling the cup and glue apart.
A couple of things to keep in mind when you remove the cup holder from the table:
The cup holder will be hot from the hairdryer so wear your gloves.
The glue will be very sticky so pull directly up and not to the side. Try not to get any on your the table/padding.
Step 2: Mark the drill hole
Before you move onto this step, make sure all the glue has completely cooled off and dried.
This step is relatively easy but requires some concentration. The exactness of this step will ensure your new cup holders will be where you want them to be.
The original cup holders on my Barrington is measured at 3 1/2" across. You should double check yours if you're going to follow this step of my guide.
The new cup holders measure 4" across.
Since the size difference between the 2 cup holders is 1/2", we will need to mark the new center hole 1/4" away from the original center.
Here is a reference on how I calculated my center hole. I started the measure from the outer edge of the original cup holder. The idea is to mark the new center at the 2" mark.
Here is a better visualization of this. The new center hole has to be 1/4" closer to the table and yet remain in center of the left/right side edges.
I tried using a marker on the glue but found it difficult to accurately mark the exact location of the new hole. I decided to use a screw instead and that worked much better. The good thing about this is that I could move the screw easily to make fine adjustments as much as I needed. Once I've double (tripled!) checked my measurement I screwed in the screw to make a pilot hole. I didn't drill too deep - just deep enough to make a visible hole.
Ultimately, I ended up with this outcome. I then took my 1/8" drill bit and drilled through the table using the pilot hole as a guide.
Step 3: Drill out the new holes (from the bottom)
Flip the table upside down.
Before I drilled the hole with my hole saw, I drilled through the existing hole using the 1/4" drill bit. The reason for this is that the drill arbor is 1/4" so I wanted to make sure the arbor was aligned exactly to the new center. In retrospect, I suspect I could have used the 1/4" bit instead of the 1/8" bit in Step 2 and saved a step.
Drilling the hole was the worst part (for me). The hardest part was intentionally going slow and not hurry the process. The thing to note here is to stop drilling immediately after you've broken through to the foam. I was a nervous wreck trying not to over drill.
As you can see below, the foam is glued to the wood so I had to carefully separate the foam after I had drilled through the wood. Try to retain as much foam as you can in the original hole. This will help with the snugness of the new cup holder.
Here is an "in progress" picture of the process. I really wanted to see the new cup holder put in so I did that one right away (it's rad). I was also doubting I did the math properly in Step 2 so I wanted to quadruple check it was right (it was). TRUST THE MATH!
I also wanted to show the new Barringtons have clearance for the holes without sawing any of the posts.
Please ignore my monstrosity of a drill. The nerds over at r/tools will ban me if they ever saw that thing.
Step 4: Insert new cup holders and ENJOY
This step is easy and the most enjoyable. The new cup holders will be very snug (tight) in the new opening. I used a cardboard sheet to help me evenly apply pressure and knead the cup holder in. Think flattening pizza dough - same idea and motion.
Others mentioned having to tape their new cup holders with masking / duct tape to make them snug but I didn't have to do that. The foam and vinyl were enough to keep these cup holders very tight and snug. Oh, speaking of foam, trim away the excess foam that will be sticking out of the bottom after you're all done.
That's it! Enjoy your new rad cup holders!
Don't yell at me about my chairs. They're next to be upgraded!
I recently upgraded my cup holders after a couple of close calls of having drinks spilled onto the playing surface. The cup holders that come with the table are a joke (a very cruel and sad joke). If you're on the fence about upgrading yours, don't delay. Get them upgraded. They're a huge improvement.
View attachment 1289094 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289094/)
I was really encouraged by the posts by @dmoney (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/3698/) and @greedyintern (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/17235/). Huge shout out to them and their guides. Those helped tremendously. This is dedicated to @Saoliver (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/1603/) who asked for a video (in the thread - not to me personally) but this is as close to a video I could muster. I hope this is helpful. :)
Items/tools:
View attachment 1289142 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289142/)
Replacement cup holders (https://www.amazon.com/YH-Poker-Jumbo-Stainless-Holders/dp/B0789HG6NW/?tag=amznpcfx-20)
Gloves
Eye protection
Auto trim removal tool (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C6V39SVH?tag=amznpcfx-20)
Screwdriver
Hole saw (3 5/8") (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01987566S?tag=amznpcfx-20)
Tape measure
Cardboard sheet
Hole saw arbor
1/4" drill bit
1/8" drill bit
Screw
Drill
Hair dryer (not pictured)
Step 1: Remove original cup holders
This step is pretty simple. Set the hairdryer on high heat and keep it approximately 1 inch away from the cup holder for about a minute. Most of the cup holders will only require a minute for the glue to loosen up. I only had a couple that needed more time. For those, I did it again for another minute.
View attachment 1289155 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289155/)
After the hairdryer, use the auto trim tool to pry the cup holder away from the loose glue. Work the tool around the cup holder while gently pulling the cup and glue apart.
View attachment 1289156 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289156/)
A couple of things to keep in mind when you remove the cup holder from the table:
The cup holder will be hot from the hairdryer so wear your gloves.
The glue will be very sticky so pull directly up and not to the side. Try not to get any on your the table/padding.
View attachment 1289157 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289157/)
Step 2: Mark the drill hole
This step is relatively easy but requires some concentration. The exactness of this step will ensure your new cup holders will be where you want them to be.
The original cup holders on my Barrington is measured at 3 1/2" across. You should double check yours if you're going to follow this step of my guide.
View attachment 1289168 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289168/)
The new cup holders measure 4" across.
View attachment 1289169 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289169/)
Since the size difference between the 2 cup holders is 1/2", we will need to mark the new center hole 1/4" away from the original center.
Here is a reference on how I calculated my center hole. I started the measure from the outer edge of the original cup holder. The idea is to mark the new center at the 2" mark.
View attachment 1289453 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289453/)
Here is a better visualization of this. The new center hole has to be 1/4" closer to the table and yet remain in center of the left/right side edges.
View attachment 1289461 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289461/)
I tried using a marker on the glue but found it difficult to accurately mark the exact location of the new hole. I decided to use a screw instead and that worked much better. The good thing about this is that I could move the screw easily to make fine adjustments as much as I needed. Once I've double (tripled!) checked my measurement I screwed in the screw to make a pilot hole. I didn't drill too deep - just deep enough to make a visible hole.
View attachment 1289462 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289462/)
Ultimately, I ended up with this outcome. I then took my 1/8" drill bit and drilled through the table using the pilot hole as a guide.
View attachment 1289471 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289471/)
Step 3: Drill out the new holes
Before I drilled the hole, I drilled through the existing hole using the 1/4" drill bit. The reason for this is that the drill arbor is 1/4" so I wanted to make sure the arbor was aligned exactly to the new center. In retrospect, I suspect I could have used the 1/4" bit instead of the 1/8" bit in Step 2 and saved a step.
Drilling the hole was the worst part (for me). The hardest part was intentionally going slow and not hurry the process. The thing to note here is to stop drilling immediately after you've broken through to the foam. I was a nervous wreck trying not to over drill.
As you can see below, the foam is glued to the wood so I had to carefully separate the foam after I had drilled through the wood. Try to retain as much foam as you can in the original hole. This will help with the snugness of the new cup holder.
View attachment 1289474 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289474/)
Here is an "in progress" picture of the process. I really wanted to see the new cup holder put in so I did that one right away (it's rad). I was also doubting I did the math properly in Step 2 so I wanted to quadruple check it was right (it was). TRUST THE MATH!
I also wanted to show the new Barringtons have clearance for the holes without sawing any of the posts.
Please ignore my monstrosity of a drill. The nerds over at r/tools will ban me if they ever saw that thing.
View attachment 1289481 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289481/)
Step 4: Insert new cup holders and ENJOY
This step is easy and the most enjoyable. The new cup holders will be very snug (tight) in the new opening. I used a cardboard sheet to help me evenly apply pressure and knead the cup holder in. Think flattening pizza dough - same idea and motion.
Others mentioned having to tape their new cup holders with masking / duct tape to make them snug but I didn't have to do that. The foam and vinyl were enough to keep these cup holders very tight snug. Oh, speaking of foam, trim away the excess foam that will be sticking out of the bottom after you're all done.
That's it! Enjoy your new rad cup holders!
Don't yell at me about my chairs. They're next to be upgraded!
View attachment 1289497 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289497/)
So glad my posts were helpful! Well done.
I recently upgraded my cup holders after a couple of close calls of having drinks spilled onto the playing surface. The cup holders that come with the table are a joke (a very cruel and sad joke). If you're on the fence about upgrading yours, don't delay. Get them upgraded. They're a huge improvement.
View attachment 1289094 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289094/)
I was really encouraged by the posts by @dmoney (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/3698/) and @greedyintern (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/17235/). Huge shout out to them and their guides. Those helped tremendously. This is dedicated to @Saoliver (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/1603/) who asked for a video (in the thread - not to me personally) but this is as close to a video I could muster. I hope this is helpful. :)
Items/tools:
View attachment 1289142 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289142/)
Replacement cup holders (https://www.amazon.com/YH-Poker-Jumbo-Stainless-Holders/dp/B0789HG6NW/?tag=amznpcfx-20)
Gloves
Eye protection
Auto trim removal tool (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C6V39SVH?tag=amznpcfx-20)
Screwdriver
Hole saw (3 5/8") (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01987566S?tag=amznpcfx-20)
Tape measure
Cardboard sheet
Hole saw arbor
1/4" drill bit
1/8" drill bit
Screw
Drill
Hair dryer (not pictured)
Step 1: Remove original cup holders
This step is pretty simple. Set the hairdryer on high heat and keep it approximately 1 inch away from the cup holder for about a minute. Most of the cup holders will only require a minute for the glue to loosen up. I only had a couple that needed more time. For those, I did it again for another minute.
View attachment 1289155 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289155/)
After the hairdryer, use the auto trim tool to pry the cup holder away from the loose glue. Work the tool around the cup holder while gently pulling the cup and glue apart.
View attachment 1289156 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289156/)
A couple of things to keep in mind when you remove the cup holder from the table:
The cup holder will be hot from the hairdryer so wear your gloves.
The glue will be very sticky so pull directly up and not to the side. Try not to get any on your the table/padding.
View attachment 1289157 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289157/)
Step 2: Mark the drill hole
This step is relatively easy but requires some concentration. The exactness of this step will ensure your new cup holders will be where you want them to be.
The original cup holders on my Barrington is measured at 3 1/2" across. You should double check yours if you're going to follow this step of my guide.
View attachment 1289168 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289168/)
The new cup holders measure 4" across.
View attachment 1289169 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289169/)
Since the size difference between the 2 cup holders is 1/2", we will need to mark the new center hole 1/4" away from the original center.
Here is a reference on how I calculated my center hole. I started the measure from the outer edge of the original cup holder. The idea is to mark the new center at the 2" mark.
View attachment 1289453 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289453/)
Here is a better visualization of this. The new center hole has to be 1/4" closer to the table and yet remain in center of the left/right side edges.
View attachment 1289461 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289461/)
I tried using a marker on the glue but found it difficult to accurately mark the exact location of the new hole. I decided to use a screw instead and that worked much better. The good thing about this is that I could move the screw easily to make fine adjustments as much as I needed. Once I've double (tripled!) checked my measurement I screwed in the screw to make a pilot hole. I didn't drill too deep - just deep enough to make a visible hole.
View attachment 1289462 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289462/)
Ultimately, I ended up with this outcome. I then took my 1/8" drill bit and drilled through the table using the pilot hole as a guide.
View attachment 1289471 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289471/)
Step 3: Drill out the new holes
Before I drilled the hole, I drilled through the existing hole using the 1/4" drill bit. The reason for this is that the drill arbor is 1/4" so I wanted to make sure the arbor was aligned exactly to the new center. In retrospect, I suspect I could have used the 1/4" bit instead of the 1/8" bit in Step 2 and saved a step.
Drilling the hole was the worst part (for me). The hardest part was intentionally going slow and not hurry the process. The thing to note here is to stop drilling immediately after you've broken through to the foam. I was a nervous wreck trying not to over drill.
As you can see below, the foam is glued to the wood so I had to carefully separate the foam after I had drilled through the wood. Try to retain as much foam as you can in the original hole. This will help with the snugness of the new cup holder.
View attachment 1289474 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289474/)
Here is an "in progress" picture of the process. I really wanted to see the new cup holder put in so I did that one right away (it's rad). I was also doubting I did the math properly in Step 2 so I wanted to quadruple check it was right (it was). TRUST THE MATH!
I also wanted to show the new Barringtons have clearance for the holes without sawing any of the posts.
Please ignore my monstrosity of a drill. The nerds over at r/tools will ban me if they ever saw that thing.
View attachment 1289481 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289481/)
Step 4: Insert new cup holders and ENJOY
This step is easy and the most enjoyable. The new cup holders will be very snug (tight) in the new opening. I used a cardboard sheet to help me evenly apply pressure and knead the cup holder in. Think flattening pizza dough - same idea and motion.
Others mentioned having to tape their new cup holders with masking / duct tape to make them snug but I didn't have to do that. The foam and vinyl were enough to keep these cup holders very tight snug. Oh, speaking of foam, trim away the excess foam that will be sticking out of the bottom after you're all done.
That's it! Enjoy your new rad cup holders!
Don't yell at me about my chairs. They're next to be upgraded!
View attachment 1289497 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289497/)
Noting this to come back to it tomorrow, great tutorial, thanks
Since the size difference between the 2 cup holders is 1/2", we will need to mark the new center hole 1/4" away from the original center.
Is there a reason why you couldn’t just use the center of the original hole to drill the pilot hole? Wouldn’t the hole saw then evenly expand the hole for the new cup holders? I’m assuming the original cup holders were already centered on the rail.
Is there a reason why you couldn’t just use the center of the original hole to drill the pilot hole? Wouldn’t the hole saw then evenly expand the hole for the new cup holders? I’m assuming the original cup holders were already centered on the rail.
One possible reason is the metal support tube underneath the table. Looks like @RadicusScout (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/10148/) is using the jumbo, wider cup holders. Others have mentioned that you need to shorten the support tube to allow jumbo cup holders to fit, or shift the hole away from the tube. Maybe that is what @RadicusScout (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/10148/) is doing. That only applies to four of the cup holders though.
One possible reason is the metal support tube underneath the table. Looks like @RadicusScout (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/10148/) is using the jumbo, wider cup holders. Others have mentioned that you need to shorten the support tube to allow jumbo cup holders to fit, or shift the hole away from the tube. Maybe that is what @RadicusScout (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/10148/) is doing. That only applies to four of the cup holders though.
I've read the metal tubes were longer on earlier versions of the Barringtons, so cutting of them is no longer required. In fact, by moving the center of the hole, it's getting even closer to the tubes.
I think moving the center keeps the larger hole from running into the sides of the table. You can see how close the hole is to the sides in this photo:
Is there a reason why you couldn’t just use the center of the original hole to drill the pilot hole? Wouldn’t the hole saw then evenly expand the hole for the new cup holders? I’m assuming the original cup holders were already centered on the rail.
Great question. If you are using the same size cup holders as the original, you can and should use the original center to drill your pilot hole. However, if you're upgrading to a bigger size cup holder, you should calculate your new center hole. The reason is twofold:
You want to maintain an equal distance between the table and the outer edge. You don't want too little/too much padding on either side.
You may not be able to drill a bigger hole at the original center hole without compromising the structural integrity of the table.
Here's what I mean by Point 1: You can see how I tried to make sure there was equal padding between the outer edge and the table. Had I drilled at the original center hole, the new cup holders would be a lot closer to the outer edge and would appear very uneven and lopsided.
@Colquhoun (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/7696/) calls out Point 2: It may be a little unclear to see but had I used the original center hole, I would have drilled away a part of the side wall of the table. I certainly didn't want to do that.
I've read the metal tubes were longer on earlier versions of the Barringtons, so cutting of them is no longer required. In fact, by moving the center of the hole, it's getting even closer to the tubes.
I think moving the center keeps the larger hole from running into the sides of the table. You can see how close the hole is to the sides in this photo:
View attachment 1289672 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289672/)
One possible reason is the metal support tube underneath the table. Looks like @RadicusScout (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/10148/) is using the jumbo, wider cup holders. Others have mentioned that you need to shorten the support tube to allow jumbo cup holders to fit, or shift the hole away from the tube. Maybe that is what @RadicusScout (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/10148/) is doing. That only applies to four of the cup holders though.
I didn't have to shorten any support tubes. You can see in my last picture of Step 3.
The new Barringtons (or at least the version I have) have shorter tubes to make this a lot easier than the previous version.
If you are using the same size cup holders as the original, you can and should use the original center to drill your pilot hole.
Yep, I’m probably going to buy deeper cup holders, not wider ones. Thanks for clarifying things!
Yep, I’m probably going to buy deeper cup holders, not wider ones. Thanks for clarifying things!
That should make things a lot simpler. Have fun with your upgrade!
Oh, and to really clarify - you want to use a smaller hole saw than the one I used. I know you know this but I wanted to say it - just in case. ;)
Is there a reason why you couldn’t just use the center of the original hole to drill the pilot hole? Wouldn’t the hole saw then evenly expand the hole for the new cup holders? I’m assuming the original cup holders were already centered on the rail.
I mistakenly used the center of the original hole at first, and my hole cutter kept hitting small nails or staples that were in the wood along the edge of the table. It's definitely better to move the center hole 1/4 inch to the middle of the table.
I mistakenly used the center of the original hole at first, and my hole cutter kept hitting small nails or staples that were in the wood along the edge of the table. It's definitely better to move the center hole 1/4 inch to the middle of the table.
Did you have the new LED version of the Barrington table, or a different one?
Did you have the new LED version of the Barrington table, or a different one?
I have the old version without LEDs (I had to cut the leg tubes).
So I finished my Barrington mods (for now) but still need to order a topper.
New LEDs, Dimmer, AA Battery Pack, and Jumbo Cupholders
COB LEDs
I wasn't the biggest fan of the blue LEDs and didn't like how they were so spaced out. I saw someone talk about the COB LEDs and how they are amost diffused already and ordered the warm white and couldn't be happier. The LEDs are very close together so you don't need to put something in front of them to diffuse them like I was trying to do with the old LEDs. Instead of ripping out the old LEDs, I actually just wedged the new LEDs right on top of the current ones. It worked out great.
I did have to cut the light strip and attach another tail end. Very easy to do but measure accurately before you cut! You don't have much leeway with the 16.4ft strip. And then used the Y connector that also came with the COB connector package.
Screwed and glued on some velcro, glued velcro to the battery pack, then buttoned up everything else. Happy with it.
COB LED Lights (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BVR755VK?tag=amznpcfx-20)
COB Connector Package (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C2CVFGL8?tag=amznpcfx-20)
Dimmer (https://www.amazon.com/weideer-Lights-Dimmer-DC12V-24V-K-018-BK/dp/B092HX9435?tag=amznpcfx-20)
Battery Pack (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09131Y9L8?tag=amznpcfx-20)
Jumbo Cupholders
I went with the jumbos after reading recommendations. Pried off the old ones with a vise grip, drilled a center hole down with a standard bit, then drilled from the bottom up with the 3 5/8in hole saw starting it the pre drilled hole. I got them all done but it was a bit of a struggle with the hole saw I bought. If I would do it again, I would get one that was deeper. This one barely made it through both pieces of wood.
Jumbo Cupholders (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0789HG6NW?tag=amznpcfx-20)
Hole Saw (buy a deeper one) (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0C6MN14B1?tag=amznpcfx-20)
View attachment 1252914 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1252914/)
Ordered all of the stuff to do the lights for my table upgrade (a bit too chicken to do the cupholders just yet). Most of it came today and when I ordered everything I thought to myself "I shouldn't need the dimmer, it should be fine..."
Plugged those sunsabishes in and went immediately almost blind....
.....the dimmer gets here on Friday....
You want to maintain an equal distance between the table and the outer edge. You don't want too little/too much padding on either side.
From the photos it seems like the cup holders might be a little closer to the inside of the table than the outside, but I can't tell for sure. Do you feel the cup holders are centered on the rail, or are they slightly to one side? They look great, just curios.
I mistakenly used the center of the original hole at first, and my hole cutter kept hitting small nails or staples that were in the wood along the edge of the table. It's definitely better to move the center hole 1/4 inch to the middle of the table.
Were the cup holders you used the ones that are 4" lip to lip, or did you use a different size.
I can't find ANY cup holders that are 3.5" lip to lip (like the originals), but deeper than the originals.
Were the cup holders you used the ones that are 4" lip to lip, or did you use a different size.
I can't find ANY cup holders that are 3.5" lip to lip (like the originals), but deeper than the originals.
I used the Jumbos with a 3 5/8th hole saw. It's been a while since I looked, but I definitely remember there being an option to keep the existing size (but deeper).
I definitely remember there being an option to keep the existing size (but deeper).
So, I just found these. Same 3.5" lip to lip and about a half an inch deeper. Not sure how meaningful the extra half inch deep will be; though I like the idea of the same outer dimensions.
https://isuremarinehardware.com/pro...ndard-soda-can-for-desk-boats-rv-cars-trucks/ (https://isuremarinehardware.com/product/isure-marine-4pcs-3-stainless-steel-drop-in-anti-spill-cup-holder-with-non-slip-washerheavy-duty-poker-table-cup-holder-inserts-fits-standard-soda-can-for-desk-boats-rv-cars-trucks/)
They also have them on Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/?tag=amznpcfx-20), but the pricing isn't as good (2 for $16 on Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/?tag=amznpcfx-20) vs 4 for $20 direct).
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CPXSWVN...I7Y2Y1BEC&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it&th=1 (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CPXSWVN7/?coliid=I6QWAUG2N2C61&colid=37JHI7Y2Y1BEC&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it&th=1&tag=amznpcfx-20)
I'm going to think about this.
I'm sure that there are links somewhere in this thread...but these might be the ones: Da Vinci (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06W2JBLJJ/ref=sspa_dk_detail_7?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B06W2JBLJJ&pd_rd_w=3mXPj&content-id=amzn1.sym.386c274b-4bfe-4421-9052-a1a56db557ab&pf_rd_p=386c274b-4bfe-4421-9052-a1a56db557ab&pf_rd_r=5MD85714E0V0S7SV0V3Q&pd_rd_wg=bPMsJ&pd_rd_r=29e39e60-dc8b-453f-b729-771b9d955c98&s=automotive&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWxfdGhlbWF0aWM&tag=amznpcfx-20)
From the photos it seems like the cup holders might be a little closer to the inside of the table than the outside, but I can't tell for sure. Do you feel the cup holders are centered on the rail, or are they slightly to one side? They look great, just curios.
Good eye. ;) Only one of the cup holders looks way off center (now you're going to give me a complex about it). I think that's the very first hole I lined up when I started measuring.
Others mostly look like this:
Good eye. ;) Only one of the cup holders looks way off center. I think that's the very first hole I lined up when I started measuring.
View attachment 1294537 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1294537/)
Others mostly look like this:
View attachment 1294538 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1294538/)
Thanks for the reply. I've went back and froth on getting the 4" wide ones or a smaller one (3.5"+) but I'm think I'm just going to follow your lead and go with the 4". The deciding factor was bourbon! To use a standard old fashioned glass you really need that extra width space.. Thanks for such a great post....you've given us all a great roadmap.
Thanks for the reply. I've went back and froth on getting the 4" wide ones or a smaller one (3.5"+) but I'm think I'm just going to follow your lead and go with the 4". The deciding factor was bourbon! To use a standard old fashioned glass you really need that extra width space.. Thanks for such a great post....you've given us all a great roadmap.
That was my deciding factor as well. My rocks glass wouldn't fit in the old cup holders so I knew I had to upgrade.
You won't regret the decision. It's a great improvement.
Have fun!
These fit perfectly.
My players are mainly bourbon drinkers so I'm not bothering to upgrade. Solo cups for beer fit too. Glasses are free with bourbon purchases around November.
That's extra cost and time to upgrade the cup holders. It's easier to get glasses and cups to fit the cup holders that come with the table.
I recently upgraded my cup holders after a couple of close calls of having drinks spilled onto the playing surface. The cup holders that come with the table are a joke (a very cruel and sad joke). If you're on the fence about upgrading yours, don't delay. Get them upgraded. They're a huge improvement.
View attachment 1289094 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289094/)
I was really encouraged by the posts by @dmoney (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/3698/) and @greedyintern (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/17235/). Huge shout out to them and their guides. Those helped tremendously. This is dedicated to @Saoliver (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/1603/) who asked for a video (in the thread - not to me personally) but this is as close to a video I could muster. I hope this is helpful. :)
Items/tools:
View attachment 1289142 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289142/)
Replacement cup holders (https://www.amazon.com/YH-Poker-Jumbo-Stainless-Holders/dp/B0789HG6NW/?tag=amznpcfx-20)
Gloves
Eye protection
Auto trim removal tool (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C6V39SVH?tag=amznpcfx-20)
Screwdriver
Hole saw (3 5/8") (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01987566S?tag=amznpcfx-20) - (In retrospect, I would have used a different hole saw. Maybe the Milwaukee one)
Tape measure
Cardboard sheet
Hole saw arbor
1/4" drill bit
1/8" drill bit
Screw
Drill
Hair dryer (not pictured)
Step 1: Remove original cup holders
This step is pretty simple. Set the hairdryer on high heat and keep it approximately 1 inch away from the cup holder for about a minute. Most of the cup holders will only require a minute for the glue to loosen up. I only had a couple that needed more time. For those, I did it again for another minute.
View attachment 1289155 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289155/)
After the hairdryer, use the auto trim tool to pry the cup holder away from the loose glue. Work the tool around the cup holder while gently pulling the cup and glue apart.
View attachment 1289156 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289156/)
A couple of things to keep in mind when you remove the cup holder from the table:
The cup holder will be hot from the hairdryer so wear your gloves.
The glue will be very sticky so pull directly up and not to the side. Try not to get any on your the table/padding.
View attachment 1289157 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289157/)
Step 2: Mark the drill hole
Before you move onto this step, make sure all the glue has completely cooled off and dried.
This step is relatively easy but requires some concentration. The exactness of this step will ensure your new cup holders will be where you want them to be.
The original cup holders on my Barrington is measured at 3 1/2" across. You should double check yours if you're going to follow this step of my guide.
View attachment 1289168 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289168/)
The new cup holders measure 4" across.
View attachment 1289169 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289169/)
Since the size difference between the 2 cup holders is 1/2", we will need to mark the new center hole 1/4" away from the original center.
Here is a reference on how I calculated my center hole. I started the measure from the outer edge of the original cup holder. The idea is to mark the new center at the 2" mark.
View attachment 1289453 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289453/)
Here is a better visualization of this. The new center hole has to be 1/4" closer to the table and yet remain in center of the left/right side edges.
View attachment 1289461 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289461/)
I tried using a marker on the glue but found it difficult to accurately mark the exact location of the new hole. I decided to use a screw instead and that worked much better. The good thing about this is that I could move the screw easily to make fine adjustments as much as I needed. Once I've double (tripled!) checked my measurement I screwed in the screw to make a pilot hole. I didn't drill too deep - just deep enough to make a visible hole.
View attachment 1289462 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289462/)
Ultimately, I ended up with this outcome. I then took my 1/8" drill bit and drilled through the table using the pilot hole as a guide.
View attachment 1289471 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289471/)
Step 3: Drill out the new holes (from the bottom)
Flip the table upside down.
Before I drilled the hole with my hole saw, I drilled through the existing hole using the 1/4" drill bit. The reason for this is that the drill arbor is 1/4" so I wanted to make sure the arbor was aligned exactly to the new center. In retrospect, I suspect I could have used the 1/4" bit instead of the 1/8" bit in Step 2 and saved a step.
Drilling the hole was the worst part (for me). The hardest part was intentionally going slow and not hurry the process. The thing to note here is to stop drilling immediately after you've broken through to the foam. I was a nervous wreck trying not to over drill.
As you can see below, the foam is glued to the wood so I had to carefully separate the foam after I had drilled through the wood. Try to retain as much foam as you can in the original hole. This will help with the snugness of the new cup holder.
View attachment 1289474 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289474/)
Here is an "in progress" picture of the process. I really wanted to see the new cup holder put in so I did that one right away (it's rad). I was also doubting I did the math properly in Step 2 so I wanted to quadruple check it was right (it was). TRUST THE MATH!
I also wanted to show the new Barringtons have clearance for the holes without sawing any of the posts.
Please ignore my monstrosity of a drill. The nerds over at r/tools will ban me if they ever saw that thing.
View attachment 1289481 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289481/)
Step 4: Insert new cup holders and ENJOY
This step is easy and the most enjoyable. The new cup holders will be very snug (tight) in the new opening. I used a cardboard sheet to help me evenly apply pressure and knead the cup holder in. Think flattening pizza dough - same idea and motion.
Others mentioned having to tape their new cup holders with masking / duct tape to make them snug but I didn't have to do that. The foam and vinyl were enough to keep these cup holders very tight and snug. Oh, speaking of foam, trim away the excess foam that will be sticking out of the bottom after you're all done.
That's it! Enjoy your new rad cup holders!
Don't yell at me about my chairs. They're next to be upgraded!
View attachment 1289497 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289497/)
Im attempting this, this weekend. Any other advice to give? Really appreciate the post it's super helpfuL!
Im attempting this, this weekend. Any other advice to give? Really appreciate the post it's super helpfuL!
Have fun!
The only other advice is to take it slow. In retrospect, I wish I had used a different hole saw. The hole saw I used was a bit big and didn't allow for my arbor to properly get into the table before the saw started doing its thing. Because of that, the hole wasn't as perfect (or more close to perfect) than I would have liked.
Overall the cup holder upgrade is a pretty simple procedure. Take it slow, double check your measurements, and don't hurry your sawing. Enjoy your new cup holders!
Have fun!
The only other advice is to take it slow. In retrospect, I wish I had used a different hole saw. The hole saw I used was a bit big and didn't allow for my arbor to properly get into the table before the saw started doing its thing. Because of that, the hole wasn't as perfect (or more close to perfect) than I would have liked.
Overall the cup holder upgrade a pretty simple procedure. Take it slow, double check your measurements, and don't hurry your sawing. Enjoy your new cup holders!
I ordered a 3 5/8 hole saw with the arbor attached so I plan on taking it slow and you can usually when (if you take it slow) you cut through a certain surface so I plan on taking it super slow. So you just push it through the original leather hole?
I ordered a 3 5/8 hole saw with the arbor attached so I plan on taking it slow and you can usually when (if you take it slow) you cut through a certain surface so I plan on taking it super slow. So you just push it through the original leather hole?
Remember to saw from the bottom of the table (flip your table upside down). This way you won't rip the foam nor vinyl.
So you just push it through the original leather hole?
You mean the new cup holders, right? Yes - you push them (knead them) in through the original hole.
While upgrading my cup holders, 3 holes in and the hole saw breaks!
Good news - 3 successful upgraded cup holders.
Bad news - 7 more to go and gotta wait for a new hole saw.
I bought the Lenox hole saw at Lowe’s. The saw is $20 and you’ll need to get a separate arbor, but this thing is a beast.
I recently upgraded my cup holders after a couple of close calls of having drinks spilled onto the playing surface. The cup holders that come with the table are a joke (a very cruel and sad joke). If you're on the fence about upgrading yours, don't delay. Get them upgraded. They're a huge improvement.
View attachment 1289094 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289094/)
I was really encouraged by the posts by @dmoney (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/3698/) and @greedyintern (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/17235/). Huge shout out to them and their guides. Those helped tremendously. This is dedicated to @Saoliver (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/1603/) who asked for a video (in the thread - not to me personally) but this is as close to a video I could muster. I hope this is helpful. :)
Items/tools:
View attachment 1289142 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289142/)
Replacement cup holders (https://www.amazon.com/YH-Poker-Jumbo-Stainless-Holders/dp/B0789HG6NW/?tag=amznpcfx-20)
Gloves
Eye protection
Auto trim removal tool (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C6V39SVH?tag=amznpcfx-20)
Screwdriver
Hole saw (3 5/8") (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01987566S?tag=amznpcfx-20) - (In retrospect, I would have used a different hole saw. Maybe the Milwaukee one)
Tape measure
Cardboard sheet
Hole saw arbor
1/4" drill bit
1/8" drill bit
Screw
Drill
Hair dryer (not pictured)
Step 1: Remove original cup holders
This step is pretty simple. Set the hairdryer on high heat and keep it approximately 1 inch away from the cup holder for about a minute. Most of the cup holders will only require a minute for the glue to loosen up. I only had a couple that needed more time. For those, I did it again for another minute.
View attachment 1289155 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289155/)
After the hairdryer, use the auto trim tool to pry the cup holder away from the loose glue. Work the tool around the cup holder while gently pulling the cup and glue apart.
View attachment 1289156 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289156/)
A couple of things to keep in mind when you remove the cup holder from the table:
The cup holder will be hot from the hairdryer so wear your gloves.
The glue will be very sticky so pull directly up and not to the side. Try not to get any on your the table/padding.
View attachment 1289157 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289157/)
Step 2: Mark the drill hole
Before you move onto this step, make sure all the glue has completely cooled off and dried.
This step is relatively easy but requires some concentration. The exactness of this step will ensure your new cup holders will be where you want them to be.
The original cup holders on my Barrington is measured at 3 1/2" across. You should double check yours if you're going to follow this step of my guide.
View attachment 1289168 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289168/)
The new cup holders measure 4" across.
View attachment 1289169 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289169/)
Since the size difference between the 2 cup holders is 1/2", we will need to mark the new center hole 1/4" away from the original center.
Here is a reference on how I calculated my center hole. I started the measure from the outer edge of the original cup holder. The idea is to mark the new center at the 2" mark.
View attachment 1289453 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289453/)
Here is a better visualization of this. The new center hole has to be 1/4" closer to the table and yet remain in center of the left/right side edges.
View attachment 1289461 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289461/)
I tried using a marker on the glue but found it difficult to accurately mark the exact location of the new hole. I decided to use a screw instead and that worked much better. The good thing about this is that I could move the screw easily to make fine adjustments as much as I needed. Once I've double (tripled!) checked my measurement I screwed in the screw to make a pilot hole. I didn't drill too deep - just deep enough to make a visible hole.
View attachment 1289462 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289462/)
Ultimately, I ended up with this outcome. I then took my 1/8" drill bit and drilled through the table using the pilot hole as a guide.
View attachment 1289471 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289471/)
Step 3: Drill out the new holes (from the bottom)
Flip the table upside down.
Before I drilled the hole with my hole saw, I drilled through the existing hole using the 1/4" drill bit. The reason for this is that the drill arbor is 1/4" so I wanted to make sure the arbor was aligned exactly to the new center. In retrospect, I suspect I could have used the 1/4" bit instead of the 1/8" bit in Step 2 and saved a step.
Drilling the hole was the worst part (for me). The hardest part was intentionally going slow and not hurry the process. The thing to note here is to stop drilling immediately after you've broken through to the foam. I was a nervous wreck trying not to over drill.
As you can see below, the foam is glued to the wood so I had to carefully separate the foam after I had drilled through the wood. Try to retain as much foam as you can in the original hole. This will help with the snugness of the new cup holder.
View attachment 1289474 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289474/)
Here is an "in progress" picture of the process. I really wanted to see the new cup holder put in so I did that one right away (it's rad). I was also doubting I did the math properly in Step 2 so I wanted to quadruple check it was right (it was). TRUST THE MATH!
I also wanted to show the new Barringtons have clearance for the holes without sawing any of the posts.
Please ignore my monstrosity of a drill. The nerds over at r/tools will ban me if they ever saw that thing.
View attachment 1289481 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289481/)
Step 4: Insert new cup holders and ENJOY
This step is easy and the most enjoyable. The new cup holders will be very snug (tight) in the new opening. I used a cardboard sheet to help me evenly apply pressure and knead the cup holder in. Think flattening pizza dough - same idea and motion.
Others mentioned having to tape their new cup holders with masking / duct tape to make them snug but I didn't have to do that. The foam and vinyl were enough to keep these cup holders very tight and snug. Oh, speaking of foam, trim away the excess foam that will be sticking out of the bottom after you're all done.
That's it! Enjoy your new rad cup holders!
AwwDon't yell at me about my chairs. They're next to be upgraded!
View attachment 1289497 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289497/)
Can this be folded with those cup holders?
Can this be folded with those cup holders?
Yup, no issues!
Okay, I'm pretty close to picking up a table like this. A couple questions:
Are there are deeper cup holders people have used/can recommend that don't require cutting? Same diameter? Just heat up the existing holders to loosen up the glue and straight swap out?
Rather than doing speed cloth I think I will just go for a custom topper from @rjdev7 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/1014/). That seems an easy enough approach and looks nice.
a) Am I correct that if I get this sized right it will just lay in the interior of the table? No reason to secure and no reason to overthink this?
b) I am presuming I will want to get my table first and take exact measurements...any guidelines for how to size to just snug up under the rail?
Okay, I'm pretty close to picking up a table like this. A couple questions:
Are there are deeper cup holders people have used/can recommend that don't require cutting? Same diameter? Just heat up the existing holders to loosen up the glue and straight swap out?
Rather than doing speed cloth I think I will just go for a custom topper from @rjdev7 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/1014/). That seems an easy enough approach and looks nice.
a) Am I correct that if I get this sized right it will just lay in the interior of the table? No reason to secure and no reason to overthink this?
b) I am presuming I will want to get my table first and take exact measurements...any guidelines for how to size to just snug up under the rail?
2a) correct
2b) correct
Okay, I'm pretty close to picking up a table like this. A couple questions:
Are there are deeper cup holders people have used/can recommend that don't require cutting? Same diameter? Just heat up the existing holders to loosen up the glue and straight swap out?
Rather than doing speed cloth I think I will just go for a custom topper from @rjdev7 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/1014/). That seems an easy enough approach and looks nice.
a) Am I correct that if I get this sized right it will just lay in the interior of the table? No reason to secure and no reason to overthink this?
b) I am presuming I will want to get my table first and take exact measurements...any guidelines for how to size to just snug up under the rail?
Regarding 1 - I don't think so. I'm mid project (cut 3 holes, but the drill bit in my hole saw snapped during hole 4). I don't think it's possible to add deeper cup holders without cutting because the base of the current cup holders are glued to the first layer of wood. There isn't any room deeper cup holders without cutting.
Also, regarding 2b - I sent the link of the exact table I bought to rjdev7 and he was able to set me up. Granted this was just last week and I haven't received my topper yet, but I'm certain it'll be fine. But yes, I'm sure measuring it and providing those measurements to rjdev7 will let him know which size is right.
Okay, I'm pretty close to picking up a table like this. A couple questions:
Regarding 1 - I don't think so. I'm mid project (cut 3 holes, but the drill bit in my hole saw snapped during hole 4). I don't think it's possible to add deeper cup holders without cutting because the base of the current cup holders are glued to the first layer of wood. There isn't any room deeper cup holders without cutting.
@davesilver88 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/14497/) is right. There is no more depth past the original cup holders. If you want deeper cup holders you will need to drill the new depth.
Thanks...I get it now that there are different layers of the wood. What do you guys think of this table if I don't want to buy a circular blade/saw...same result (if I can live with a brown rail)? It already has the deeper cup holders installed:
https://www.walmart.com/ip/PEXMOR-1...ess-Steel-Cup-Holders-Padded-Rails/5095694576 (https://www.walmart.com/ip/PEXMOR-10-Player-Foldable-Poker-Table-Folding-Casino-Table-Texas-Holdem-Portable-Blackjack-Card-Game-w-Stainless-Steel-Cup-Holders-Padded-Rails/5095694576)
Or there's this version for a 72", but think I might as well go for an 84":
https://www.walmart.com/ip/PEXMOR-F...Padded-Rails-Portable-Texas-Holdem/1579009788 (https://www.walmart.com/ip/PEXMOR-Foldable-8-Player-Poker-Table-Folding-Blackjack-Casino-Card-Game-Table-Stainless-Steel-Cup-Holders-Padded-Rails-Portable-Texas-Holdem/1579009788)
OK, I have bought everything for all the mods, except the hole saw. I've read comments about hole saws breaking and wishing people had bought a different one. Can you guys recommend a 3 5/8" hole saw/arbor that WAS deep enough and that you WERE very happy with so I can get the right one and avoid any headaches?
Thanks in advance!
I mentioned a number of posts back about the Lenox one from Lowe’s ...it’s a beast. Saw is $20 and you need an arbor which is an additional $17-$20.
I mentioned a number of posts back about the Lenox one from Lowe’s ...it’s a beast. Saw is $20 and you need an arbor which is an additional $17-$20.
View attachment 1299558 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1299558/)
This is the way
This look good?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0054SBE4...7Y2Y1BEC&psc=1&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0054SBE4E/?coliid=I3HQPKQSORY3XC&colid=37JHI7Y2Y1BEC&psc=1&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it&tag=amznpcfx-20)
I’m not convinced that ships with an arbor.
I’m not convinced that ships with an arbor.
I see what you mean! That could be a carefully crafted listing but no arbor.
I see what you mean! That could be a carefully crafted listing but no arbor.
Yeah, if it had an arbor, it would say whether it was a 3/8" or 1/2" shank. I ended up getting the the 1/2" Lenox one at Lowe's because I liked the large locking nut, but if you choose to get this one, make sure your drill chuck can handle 1/2" shanks.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/LENOX-1-2-in-Steel-Hole-Saw-Arbor/5013098097
Are the table’s cup holders THAT bad? Is there a solution where one can just put another, deeper cup holder in the existing ones?
Are the table’s cup holders THAT bad? Is there a solution where one can just put another, deeper cup holder in the existing ones?
It’s the equivalent of putting your drink on a coaster. They are not preventing spills. As mentioned above, the only way to go deeper is to drill the second board out creating a hole.
Are the table’s cup holders THAT bad? Is there a solution where one can just put another, deeper cup holder in the existing ones?
They’re crazy shallow, in my opinion. You could go without it, but with a depth of just a little over an inch, any bump of a beer bottle and it’s tipping over and pouring on your playing surface.
The problem is that there’s a wood base below the cup holder, so there’s no way to replace them with a larger holder without drilling a hole to make room.
It’s the equivalent of putting your drink on a coaster.
^^^ This is the perfect analogy. They are VERY shallow.
Isn't this essentially the same table, but with deeper cup holders already built in?
https://www.walmart.com/ip/PEXMOR-1...ess-Steel-Cup-Holders-Padded-Rails/5095694576 (https://www.walmart.com/ip/PEXMOR-10-Player-Foldable-Poker-Table-Folding-Casino-Table-Texas-Holdem-Portable-Blackjack-Card-Game-w-Stainless-Steel-Cup-Holders-Padded-Rails/5095694576)
Isn't this essentially the same table, but with deeper cup holders already built in?
https://www.walmart.com/ip/PEXMOR-1...ess-Steel-Cup-Holders-Padded-Rails/5095694576 (https://www.walmart.com/ip/PEXMOR-10-Player-Foldable-Poker-Table-Folding-Casino-Table-Texas-Holdem-Portable-Blackjack-Card-Game-w-Stainless-Steel-Cup-Holders-Padded-Rails/5095694576)
No. That table weighs 88lbs and the Barrington one weighs about 100lbs.
It’s the equivalent of putting your drink on a coaster. They are not preventing spills. As mentioned above, the only way to go deeper is to drill the second board out creating a hole.
They’re crazy shallow, in my opinion. You could go without it, but with a depth of just a little over an inch, any bump of a beer bottle and it’s tipping over and pouring on your playing surface. View attachment 1299568 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1299568/)
The problem is that there’s a wood base below the cup holder, so there’s no way to replace them with a larger holder without drilling a hole to make room.
Thanks for the info. Out of curiosity, what’s the inside diameter of the cup holder? I tried looking it up but couldn’t find it.
But, in doing so, looks like the LED version is on sale again:
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Barringt...In-laid-LED-Lights-Brown-and-Black/3963393753 (https://www.walmart.com/ip/Barrington-10-Player-Poker-Table-with-In-laid-LED-Lights-Brown-and-Black/3963393753)
Are the table’s cup holders THAT bad? Is there a solution where one can just put another, deeper cup holder in the existing ones?
They're useless. I'm very comfortable playing on an unmodified first generation Barrington unless I have a drink.
No. That table weighs 88lbs and the Barrington one weighs about 100lbs.
According to the details on Walmart's site the Barrington is 82 lb.
I really think these are essentially the same table, but the Pexmor has 2.4" deep cup holders and brown rails.
According to the details on Walmart's site the Barrington is 82 lb.
View attachment 1299613 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1299613/)
I really think these are essentially the same table, but the Pexmor has 2.4" deep cup holders and brown rails.
I have the LED version which I believe is beefier.
According to the details on Walmart's site the Barrington is 82 lb.
View attachment 1299613 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1299613/)
I really think these are essentially the same table, but the Pexmor has 2.4" deep cup holders and brown rails.
View attachment 1299633 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1299633/)
The LED one is 20lbs heavier. It has thicker tubes in the hardware and a thicker plywood base for the playing surface.
The LED one is 20lbs heavier. It has thicker tubes in the hardware and a thicker plywood base for the playing surface.
Would you recommend it for those reasons alone if not planning to use the LEDs?
Would you recommend it for those reasons alone if not planning to use the LEDs?
I bought the regular version and exchanged it to the LED version for just those reasons. I never plan on using the LED's but the heavier deck is definitely a plus.
Be warned...the folded table is HEAVY. I bought the bag for it and it's better, but two people makes getting it set up much easier.
I bought the regular version and exchanged it to the LED version for just those reasons. I never plan on using the LED's but the heavier deck is definitely a plus.
Be warned...the folded table is HEAVY. I bought the bag for it and it's better, but two people makes getting it set up much easier.
I will admit I was totally not expecting the LED table to have the heft that it did. Definitely a two-person job for my setup, but it also pays to have strapping young sons that want to show off their muscles...
Are the table’s cup holders THAT bad?
You know, when I originally bought the table, I didn't think I'd want to upgrade my cup holders. I thought my crew and I would be able to manage around it and I didn't see the need. On the first night of play I noticed one of my players lean in to scoop up chips and his leg pushed up against his drink and practically knocked it over onto the table. I made a motion for it and he mentioned the drink was almost empty. Whew.
I then realized I needed to upgrade.
Here's what a regular Coke can looks like in an upgraded cup holder. The lean you see here is the most it will ever tip over. At worst, there will be some splash on the table but most will collect in the cup holder.
Here is the same Coke can in the original cup holder. As you can see, the can will easily tip over onto the playing field.
TL;DR - Yes, it's THAT bad (for me and my crew).
Yea looks pretty bad. I was hoping I could buy a smaller, deeper cup holder to place/glue into the existing ones, but from the looks of it, if I did that, regular sized cans wouldn’t fit.
Yea looks pretty bad. I was hoping I could buy a smaller, deeper cup holder to place/glue into the existing ones, but from the looks of it, if I did that, regular sized cans wouldn’t fit.
If you just buy deeper cup holders, regular sized cans should fit just fine.
Would you recommend it for those reasons alone if not planning to use the LEDs?
You might not plan to use the LEDs, but I highly recommend it. Getting the warm white COB LEDs and dimmer is a game changer.
LEDs off:
Warm white COB LEDs at about 30%:
You might not plan to use the LEDs, but I highly recommend it. Getting the warm white COB LEDs and dimmer is a game changer.
LEDs off:
View attachment 1299681 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1299681/)
Warm white COB LEDs at about 30%:
View attachment 1299683 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1299683/)
Dude I can see your cards!!!
FLOOR!!!
You might not plan to use the LEDs, but I highly recommend it. Getting the warm white COB LEDs and dimmer is a game changer.
LEDs off:
View attachment 1299681 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1299681/)
Warm white COB LEDs at about 30%:
View attachment 1299683 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1299683/)
How are you attaching these to the non-ESPN tables?
How are you attaching these to the non-ESPN tables?
You're not. You're installing the COB LED lights on top of the existing LEDs on the ESPN or Barrington LED table.
https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/barrington-poker-table-thread.30910/post-2353645
https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/barrington-poker-table-thread.30910/post-2352520
You might be able to put them on the rail on a standard table, not sure if anyone has tried, could be rough though. I'm just saying if you're on the fence between standard and LED, go with LED.
I have the OG, non-LED Barrington 10 player table but like how those COB LED strips look. I'm intrigued enough to rush some parts to get this going before my game Saturday night :LOL: :laugh:
I have the OG, non-LED Barrington 10 player table but like how those COB LED strips look. I'm intrigued enough to rush some parts to get this going before my game Saturday night :LOL: :laugh:
Tonight is a record breaker for us — 13 ppl seated at the Barrington. Yikes.
I received my new hole saw and finished the remaining 7 holes this morning.
Unfortunately, I ripped the vinyl a bit. For now I put some black gorilla tape over it. I’m not pleased with my self, but it could be much worse. Definitely happy I decided to do this, you’re upgrading from coasters to cup holders.
Congrats on your new cup holder! Bummer what happened to the vinyl. What happened? Did you just punch through it?
Don’t worry - with a drink or two, no one will even notice. ;)
Yea, I just went a tad too far with my saw on that one cup. 9 out of 10 isn’t bad, and the dmg is pretty minimal relative to the work.
Show us the entire table!
Haha, will send a pic when I also receive my custom table top!
13 ppl seated at the Barrington
:vomit: 13 handed hold em???
Alright here is a pic of the finished work, upgraded jumbo cup holders. Shout out to all who have posted guides, pics, and recommended tools / cup holders. Very pumped for my next game Apr 12.
Alright here is a pic of the finished work, upgraded jumbo cup holders. Shout out to all who have posted guides, pics, and recommended tools / cup holders. Very pumped for my next game Apr 12.
Looks nice! Now make sure to just sit AT that spot with the rip and you'll never see it. Out of sight, out of mind. It blends right in.
Haha exactly. I mean, it’s a fold up table- it’s gonna get banged up. I of course wanna keep it in the best possible condition, but I also realize that due to the natural of it being foldable and moving around , it’s not gonna stay perfect. I think the bruise on my thigh from using the drill is worse than the rip in the vinyl lol
I ended up buying this hole saw that includes the arbor for just $26 off Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/?tag=amznpcfx-20). I'm five holes in and everything is going great. The arbor sticks out enough to hit the wood placed underneath the table as I'm cutting, so when I finally get through the wood of the table it provides a stop before cutting through the vinyl armrest. I'm still taking my time and not pushing down too hard, so I don't tear the vinyl by mistake, but since the arbor sticks out a bit it does add a little extra protection if you will.
https://a.co/d/5W8KIDV (https://a.co/d/5W8KIDV?tag=amznpcfx-20)
So I finished my Barrington mods (for now) but still need to order a topper.
New LEDs, Dimmer, AA Battery Pack, and Jumbo Cupholders
COB LEDs
I wasn't the biggest fan of the blue LEDs and didn't like how they were so spaced out. I saw someone talk about the COB LEDs and how they are amost diffused already and ordered the warm white and couldn't be happier. The LEDs are very close together so you don't need to put something in front of them to diffuse them like I was trying to do with the old LEDs. Instead of ripping out the old LEDs, I actually just wedged the new LEDs right on top of the current ones. It worked out great.
I did have to cut the light strip and attach another tail end. Very easy to do but measure accurately before you cut! You don't have much leeway with the 16.4ft strip. And then used the Y connector that also came with the COB connector package.
Screwed and glued on some velcro, glued velcro to the battery pack, then buttoned up everything else. Happy with it.
COB LED Lights (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BVR755VK?tag=amznpcfx-20)
COB Connector Package (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C2CVFGL8?tag=amznpcfx-20)
Dimmer (https://www.amazon.com/weideer-Lights-Dimmer-DC12V-24V-K-018-BK/dp/B092HX9435?tag=amznpcfx-20)
Battery Pack (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09131Y9L8?tag=amznpcfx-20)
Jumbo Cupholders
I went with the jumbos after reading recommendations. Pried off the old ones with a vise grip, drilled a center hole down with a standard bit, then drilled from the bottom up with the 3 5/8in hole saw starting it the pre drilled hole. I got them all done but it was a bit of a struggle with the hole saw I bought. If I would do it again, I would get one that was deeper. This one barely made it through both pieces of wood.
Jumbo Cupholders (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0789HG6NW?tag=amznpcfx-20)
Hole Saw (buy a deeper one) (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0C6MN14B1?tag=amznpcfx-20)
View attachment 1252914 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1252914/)
Hey, I noticed that the link to the battery pack on Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/?tag=amznpcfx-20) isn't available. Is this the same thing ? https://www.amazon.com/AITIAO-Batte...5e-a276-bde72f74bcef&pd_rd_i=B09LTSNJTW&psc=1 (https://www.amazon.com/AITIAO-Battery-Container-5-5x2-1mm-Connector/dp/B09LTSNJTW/ref=dp_prsubs_sccl_1/139-3323471-6884929?pd_rd_w=Dnp05&content-id=amzn1.sym.53e0c629-1936-47cb-93a2-c361b12e7d3c&pf_rd_p=53e0c629-1936-47cb-93a2-c361b12e7d3c&pf_rd_r=QZ0S2NQY187N1CAZYGQT&pd_rd_wg=JTQ2D&pd_rd_r=a7641803-f28b-415e-a276-bde72f74bcef&pd_rd_i=B09LTSNJTW&psc=1&tag=amznpcfx-20)
Hey, I noticed that the link to the battery pack on Amazon isn't available. Is this the same thing ? https://www.amazon.com/AITIAO-Batte...5e-a276-bde72f74bcef&pd_rd_i=B09LTSNJTW&psc=1 (https://www.amazon.com/AITIAO-Battery-Container-5-5x2-1mm-Connector/dp/B09LTSNJTW/ref=dp_prsubs_sccl_1/139-3323471-6884929?pd_rd_w=Dnp05&content-id=amzn1.sym.53e0c629-1936-47cb-93a2-c361b12e7d3c&pf_rd_p=53e0c629-1936-47cb-93a2-c361b12e7d3c&pf_rd_r=QZ0S2NQY187N1CAZYGQT&pd_rd_wg=JTQ2D&pd_rd_r=a7641803-f28b-415e-a276-bde72f74bcef&pd_rd_i=B09LTSNJTW&psc=1&tag=amznpcfx-20)
This one looks similar:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078NK9GS2/ (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078NK9GS2/?tag=amznpcfx-20)
I also found a 4-pack of them:
https://www.amazon.com/ACEIRMC-AA-Battery-5-5x2-1mm-Connector/dp/B0CCNSYJB5/?th=1 (https://www.amazon.com/ACEIRMC-AA-Battery-5-5x2-1mm-Connector/dp/B0CCNSYJB5/?th=1&tag=amznpcfx-20)
HSXJJ (2pack 8 AA Battery Holders, 8 * 1.5VAA Battery holders12V with Cover on/Off switchDC Connector… https://a.co/d/12MN40D (https://a.co/d/12MN40D?tag=amznpcfx-20)
This was the one I grabbed when I noticed the original link was out of stock..worked great!
This one looks similar:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078NK9GS2/ (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078NK9GS2/?tag=amznpcfx-20)
I also found a 4-pack of them:
https://www.amazon.com/ACEIRMC-AA-Battery-5-5x2-1mm-Connector/dp/B0CCNSYJB5/?th=1 (https://www.amazon.com/ACEIRMC-AA-Battery-5-5x2-1mm-Connector/dp/B0CCNSYJB5/?th=1&tag=amznpcfx-20)
thanks! curious, why would you need a 4-pack? Wouldn’t you only be able to use 1 pack at a time
thanks! curious, why would you need a 4-pack? Wouldn’t you only be able to use 1 pack at a time
I guess you could keep a few loaded up with batteries and swap them out for those really long sessions. :ROFL: :ROFLMAO:
Now that I think of it...how long do the battery packs last with these LED lights?
I guess you could keep a few loaded up with batteries and swap them out for those really long sessions. :ROFL: :ROFLMAO:
Hahaha that’s fair lmao
I guess you could keep a few loaded up with batteries and swap them out for those really long sessions. :ROFL: :ROFLMAO:
Now that I think of it...how long do the battery packs last with these LED lights?
Mine was at 7 hours and still going strong last session..now if I can just remember which pack I used, I'll be able to give you a number when those finally die. :LOL: :laugh:
I just finished mine last night with the guidance of this amazing group.
Remove the cup. I used a heat gun and it loosened up the glue and the cup just slid right out.
Find the middle of the cup and move a hair towards the table and drill a pilot from the top. No need to remove rail.
From the bottom, use your hole saw to cut through the wood.
Go easy as you will be cutting through 2 pieces of wood. I stopped after the first piece and then vacuumed out the dust to see where I was. Just so I didn’t saw all the way to the vinyl. The second piece of the wood is glued to the foam.
When I loosened the second piece of the wood I used a box cutter to trim the foam and be careful to not cut the vinyl.
I replaced some of the cut foam back to give it more cushion around the cup holder.
Pushed the cup holder into place and boom. Done!
I’m assuming you went with the 3-5/8” hole saw and jumbo replacement cup holders.
Hope this helps.
did you use these cupholders and this saw ? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0789HG6NW?tag=pokchifor0d-20 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0789HG6NW?tag=amznpcfx-20)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0C6MN14B1?tag=pokchifor0d-20&th=1 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0C6MN14B1?tag=amznpcfx-20&th=1)
did you use these cupholders and this saw ?
That hole saw doesn't look all that deep. I just finished cutting all of my cup holders holes and this is the one I used and it worked great:
https://a.co/d/26KPrWR (https://a.co/d/26KPrWR?tag=amznpcfx-20)
OK, I finished cutting out all of the holes for my larger cupholders and everything went smoothly. I followed the excellent step by step guide by @greedyintern (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/17235/) (thanks for the great explanation and photos).
One thing nobody mentioned, and it would keep me from doing the cupholder mods every again, is that whatever pressboard material Barrington is using between the plywood and the table felt smells like what I'd expect a camel's ass to smell like on a hot Sahara day. That, PLUS CRAP!
(https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/barrington-poker-table-thread.30910/#-)
OK, I finished cutting out all of the holes for my larger cupholders and everything went smoothly. I followed the excellent step by step guide by @greedyintern (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/17235/) (thanks for the great explanation and photos).
One thing nobody mentioned, and it would keep me from doing the cupholder mods every again, is that whatever pressboard material Barrington is using between the plywood and the table felt smells like what I'd expect a camel's ass to smell like on a hot Sahara day. That, PLUS CRAP!
Glad it went well! Sorry I didn't warn you about the smell! Haha
Alright boys, this coming week or 2 i’ll do the White LED and Cup Holder upgrade.. I feel confident after all the comments !
I recently upgraded my cup holders after a couple of close calls of having drinks spilled onto the playing surface. The cup holders that come with the table are a joke (a very cruel and sad joke). If you're on the fence about upgrading yours, don't delay. Get them upgraded. They're a huge improvement.
View attachment 1289094 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289094/)
I was really encouraged by the posts by @dmoney (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/3698/) and @greedyintern (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/17235/). Huge shout out to them and their guides. Those helped tremendously. This is dedicated to @Saoliver (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/1603/) who asked for a video (in the thread - not to me personally) but this is as close to a video I could muster. I hope this is helpful. :)
Items/tools:
View attachment 1289142 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289142/)
Replacement cup holders (https://www.amazon.com/YH-Poker-Jumbo-Stainless-Holders/dp/B0789HG6NW/?tag=amznpcfx-20)
Gloves
Eye protection
Auto trim removal tool (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C6V39SVH?tag=amznpcfx-20)
Screwdriver
Hole saw (3 5/8") (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01987566S?tag=amznpcfx-20) - (In retrospect, I would have used a different hole saw. Maybe the Milwaukee one)
Tape measure
Cardboard sheet
Hole saw arbor
1/4" drill bit
1/8" drill bit
Screw
Drill
Hair dryer (not pictured)
Step 1: Remove original cup holders
This step is pretty simple. Set the hairdryer on high heat and keep it approximately 1 inch away from the cup holder for about a minute. Most of the cup holders will only require a minute for the glue to loosen up. I only had a couple that needed more time. For those, I did it again for another minute.
View attachment 1289155 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289155/)
After the hairdryer, use the auto trim tool to pry the cup holder away from the loose glue. Work the tool around the cup holder while gently pulling the cup and glue apart.
View attachment 1289156 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289156/)
A couple of things to keep in mind when you remove the cup holder from the table:
The cup holder will be hot from the hairdryer so wear your gloves.
The glue will be very sticky so pull directly up and not to the side. Try not to get any on your the table/padding.
View attachment 1289157 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289157/)
Step 2: Mark the drill hole
Before you move onto this step, make sure all the glue has completely cooled off and dried.
This step is relatively easy but requires some concentration. The exactness of this step will ensure your new cup holders will be where you want them to be.
The original cup holders on my Barrington is measured at 3 1/2" across. You should double check yours if you're going to follow this step of my guide.
View attachment 1289168 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289168/)
The new cup holders measure 4" across.
View attachment 1289169 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289169/)
Since the size difference between the 2 cup holders is 1/2", we will need to mark the new center hole 1/4" away from the original center.
Here is a reference on how I calculated my center hole. I started the measure from the outer edge of the original cup holder. The idea is to mark the new center at the 2" mark.
View attachment 1289453 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289453/)
Here is a better visualization of this. The new center hole has to be 1/4" closer to the table and yet remain in center of the left/right side edges.
View attachment 1289461 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289461/)
I tried using a marker on the glue but found it difficult to accurately mark the exact location of the new hole. I decided to use a screw instead and that worked much better. The good thing about this is that I could move the screw easily to make fine adjustments as much as I needed. Once I've double (tripled!) checked my measurement I screwed in the screw to make a pilot hole. I didn't drill too deep - just deep enough to make a visible hole.
View attachment 1289462 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289462/)
Ultimately, I ended up with this outcome. I then took my 1/8" drill bit and drilled through the table using the pilot hole as a guide.
View attachment 1289471 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289471/)
Step 3: Drill out the new holes (from the bottom)
Flip the table upside down.
Before I drilled the hole with my hole saw, I drilled through the existing hole using the 1/4" drill bit. The reason for this is that the drill arbor is 1/4" so I wanted to make sure the arbor was aligned exactly to the new center. In retrospect, I suspect I could have used the 1/4" bit instead of the 1/8" bit in Step 2 and saved a step.
Drilling the hole was the worst part (for me). The hardest part was intentionally going slow and not hurry the process. The thing to note here is to stop drilling immediately after you've broken through to the foam. I was a nervous wreck trying not to over drill.
As you can see below, the foam is glued to the wood so I had to carefully separate the foam after I had drilled through the wood. Try to retain as much foam as you can in the original hole. This will help with the snugness of the new cup holder.
View attachment 1289474 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289474/)
Here is an "in progress" picture of the process. I really wanted to see the new cup holder put in so I did that one right away (it's rad). I was also doubting I did the math properly in Step 2 so I wanted to quadruple check it was right (it was). TRUST THE MATH!
I also wanted to show the new Barringtons have clearance for the holes without sawing any of the posts.
Please ignore my monstrosity of a drill. The nerds over at r/tools will ban me if they ever saw that thing.
View attachment 1289481 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289481/)
Step 4: Insert new cup holders and ENJOY
This step is easy and the most enjoyable. The new cup holders will be very snug (tight) in the new opening. I used a cardboard sheet to help me evenly apply pressure and knead the cup holder in. Think flattening pizza dough - same idea and motion.
Others mentioned having to tape their new cup holders with masking / duct tape to make them snug but I didn't have to do that. The foam and vinyl were enough to keep these cup holders very tight and snug. Oh, speaking of foam, trim away the excess foam that will be sticking out of the bottom after you're all done.
That's it! Enjoy your new rad cup holders!
Don't yell at me about my chairs. They're next to be upgraded!
View attachment 1289497 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289497/)
Quick question: So, you didn't ultimately need the `1/8 drill bit? I will be using this guide !
I have a question for those that have done the cup holders. How do you know when to stop cutting with the hole saw before you cut into the padding? Possibly the feel or sound?
I’ve been wanting to do this for a while now and think I’m ready to try.
I have a question for those that have done the cup holders. How do you know when to stop cutting with the hole saw before you cut into the padding? Possibly the feel or sound?
I’ve been wanting to do this for a while now and think I’m ready to try.
For me it was the feel
Quick question: So, you didn't ultimately need the `1/8 drill bit? I will be using this guide !
Looking back on it, I don't think so. I think I could have just used the 1/4" bit with from the get go.
Let us know how it goes!
I have a question for those that have done the cup holders. How do you know when to stop cutting with the hole saw before you cut into the padding? Possibly the feel or sound?
I’ve been wanting to do this for a while now and think I’m ready to try.
For me it was the feel
Yep. Same for me.
Take it really slow. I'd stop and look at the hole every now and then to see how far I've drilled. When you're about to reach the bottom layer (you can actually feel a difference in the wood), go really slow and as soon as you break through that - stop drilling immediately.
You got this.
I have a question for those that have done the cup holders. How do you know when to stop cutting with the hole saw before you cut into the padding? Possibly the feel or sound?
I’ve been wanting to do this for a while now and think I’m ready to try.
I have the LED version of the Barrington table. There were two stages when cutting with the hole saw from the bottom. The first stage is the plywood and it was obvious when you got through that. The next stage was this terrible smelling press board, and for that you also feel when you've gone through it. I didn't push down very hard, but I also used a nice arbored hole saw that the arbor stuck out enough to almost keep me from going further. It went smoothly.
For me it was the feel
Yep. Same for me.
Take it really slow. I'd stop and look at the hole every now and then to see how far I've drilled. When you're about to reach the bottom layer (you can actually feel a difference in the wood), go really slow and as soon as you break through that - stop drilling immediately.
You got this.
I have the LED version of the Barrington table. There were two stages when cutting with the hole saw from the bottom. The first stage is the plywood and it was obvious when you got through that. The next stage was this terrible smelling press board, and for that you also feel when you've gone through it. I didn't push down very hard, but I also used a nice arbored hole saw that the arbor stuck out enough to almost keep me from going further. It went smoothly.
Awesome. That’s what I thought, just go slow and pay attention to the sound and feel.
Funny story, I work nights so after thinking and reading about this all night last night I came home and went to sleep. I had a dream I actually messed it up and cut through the foam. I don’t normally remember much of my dreams but I do that one
It seems pretty straightforward. Thanks for the help!
IMPORTANT: So, I thought everything went perfectly, but there was one problem. The straps that hold the table together when folded run through the two cup holder areas at the ends of the table. On one, the hole saw cut through it without any problem. However, on the other end, either the strap got pulled by the teeth of the hole saw or the excess felt got caught and pulled it causing a tear in the original table felt. Not the end of the world since I purchased a custom table topper like most people in this forum. This is obviously a fluke since I don’t recall seeing anyone else mention this. Because the strap is in between the pressboard material and the plywood you really can’t avoid cutting it. My guess is that I was going too slow through the plywood and therefore the teeth just pulled instead of cut this strap or the excess table felt. Either way, my advice is to go FULL SPEED through the plywood (which is the first layer you cut through). You’re going to feel when you cut through it. That way you will cut, not pull, on the straps/excess felt.
Question for those who bought this dimmer off Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/?tag=amznpcfx-20): https://a.co/d/eKGk49u (https://a.co/d/eKGk49u?tag=amznpcfx-20)
Both of the dimmers in the package I received would NOT allow for turning of the LED lights. It would only allow for the lights to go down to about 30% of their brightness. Seems kind of screwy that the knob on these has an OFF position, but the lights never go down to zero/off.
Did anyone else have this issue?
Question for those who bought this dimmer off Amazon: https://a.co/d/eKGk49u (https://a.co/d/eKGk49u?tag=amznpcfx-20)
Both of the dimmers in the package I received would NOT allow for turning of the LED lights. It would only allow for the lights to go down to about 30% of their brightness. Seems kind of screwy that the knob on these has an OFF position, but the lights never go down to zero/off.
Did anyone else have this issue?
Mine worked fine. Can turn off and dim all the way to barely on. Sounds like you got defective stock.
I bought the regular version and exchanged it to the LED version for just those reasons. I never plan on using the LED's but the heavier deck is definitely a plus.
Be warned...the folded table is HEAVY. I bought the bag for it and it's better, but two people makes getting it set up much easier.
I will admit I was totally not expecting the LED table to have the heft that it did. Definitely a two-person job for my setup, but it also pays to have strapping young sons that want to show off their muscles...
The LED table is a brut, and yes, 2 people to set it up would be easier, but I'd say it's still doable by one for the majority of adult men. I'm 66 and not muscle bound in any way whatsoever, and I've done it twice. I bought the bag for the second time I used it and it does make it quite a bit easier. I have to move it about 60 feet from my house to my detached garage for storage.
Question for those who bought this dimmer off Amazon: https://a.co/d/eKGk49u (https://a.co/d/eKGk49u?tag=amznpcfx-20)
View attachment 1303699 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1303699/)
Both of the dimmers in the package I received would NOT allow for turning of the LED lights. It would only allow for the lights to go down to about 30% of their brightness. Seems kind of screwy that the knob on these has an OFF position, but the lights never go down to zero/off.
Did anyone else have this issue?
I'm with @Danny_Banana (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/17258/) , mine are fine. Very strange if both of yours are doing the same thing tho, seems unlikely they both have the exact same defect. Weird...
Did anyone use a different cup holder set than this one? These just came in the mail, and I feel like they are not deep enough. Can't complain compared to the stock ones though lol https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0789HG6NW?tag=pokchifor0d-20 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0789HG6NW?tag=amznpcfx-20)
Did anyone use a different cup holder set than this one? These just came in the mail, and I feel like they are not deep enough. Can't complain compared to the stock ones though lol https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0789HG6NW?tag=pokchifor0d-20 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0789HG6NW?tag=amznpcfx-20)
Yeah those are the ones I bought too but haven’t installed them yet. They seem deep enough. Getting even deeper ones may cause an issue closing the table.
Did anyone use a different cup holder set than this one?
No, those are the ones I used and they're great. I cannot see needing anything deeper.
They seem deep enough.
I've installed mine and they're perfect.
what am i doing wrong :(
what am i doing wrong :(View attachment 1304827 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1304827/)
The LED strip should of already had lead wires running off it. Also, you need to be sure you cut the LED strip only along the thin black line they add every inch or so for s guide.
The LED strip should of already had lead wires running off it. Also, you need to be sure you cut the LED strip only along the thin black line they add every inch or so for s guide.
i cut the lead off lol
i cut the lead off lol
Well, then try scrapping off the plastic to try and get to the contacts. Good luck.
Well, then try scrapping off the plastic to try and get to the contacts. Good luck.
i have a soldering iron nvm i fixed it haha
You might not plan to use the LEDs, but I highly recommend it. Getting the warm white COB LEDs and dimmer is a game changer.
LEDs off:
View attachment 1299681 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1299681/)
Warm white COB LEDs at about 30%:
View attachment 1299683 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1299683/)
You have convinced me to upgrade my LED lights to the warm white LED's you have. I have already ordered and received all the goodies from Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/?tag=amznpcfx-20). Now I just need to find some free time to do the upgrade. Thanks for the inspiration! I can't wait to show off the results.
You have convinced me to upgrade my LED lights to the warm white LED's you have. I have already ordered and received all the goodies from Amazon. Now I just need to find some free time to do the upgrade. Thanks for the inspiration! I can't wait to show off the results.
I recommend peeling off the tape backing and sticking them to the old LED strip (if you have the LED version of the table). I tried without doing that and they would slip out in spots.
I recommend peeling off the tape backing and sticking them to the old LED strip (if you have the LED version of the table). I tried without doing that and they would slip out in spots.
Yeah it all depends on your table. I was able to wedge mine in and only peel off about 6 in of adhesive at the ends. I did this just because I was testing the lights but I've never circled back to peel off the rest of the adhesive.
Definitely start without any slack. I accidentally started with a little too much and I barely made it to the end!
You have convinced me to upgrade my LED lights to the warm white LED's you have. I have already ordered and received all the goodies from Amazon. Now I just need to find some free time to do the upgrade. Thanks for the inspiration! I can't wait to show off the results.
GET THE DIMMER!!!
I'm interested in doing this upgrade to COB led's but I'm not sure I understand whats involved with cutting them, and splicing, etc.
Also, is it one long strip, or two halves?
Yeah it all depends on your table. I was able to wedge mine in and only peel off about 6 in of adhesive at the ends. I did this just because I was testing the lights but I've never circled back to peel off the rest of the adhesive.
Definitely start without any slack. I accidentally started with a little too much and I barely made it to the end!
how did you feed the LED through the Barrington? The friction on the silicon won’t let me pull it through lol
I'm interested in doing this upgrade to COB led's but I'm not sure I understand whats involved with cutting them, and splicing, etc.
Also, is it one long strip, or two halves?
It’s one long strip. You’ll only make one cut. It’s easy.
I'm interested in doing this upgrade to COB led's but I'm not sure I understand whats involved with cutting them, and splicing, etc.
Also, is it one long strip, or two halves?
It's one long strip. You do need cut it and attach an end for the barrel, and use a Y connector. It's all very simple once it's in front of you. I can go into more detail, just on mobile now.
how did you feed the LED through the Barrington? The friction on the silicon won’t let me pull it through lol
Very carefully. :D
how did you feed the LED through the Barrington? The friction on the silicon won’t let me pull it through lol
I used needle nose pliers.
I recommend peeling off the tape backing and sticking them to the old LED strip (if you have the LED version of the table). I tried without doing that and they would slip out in spots.
Thank you for the advise. I appreciate it!
GET THE DIMMER!!!
I have had the dimmers for a while now. They make a huge difference.
I just did it after taking the cup holders out and waiting 3 weeks being too scared to actually drill into it. Only went too far on the first two but still no issues. What a game changer. Whoever is out there debating it - DO IT.
However, I will join the general consensus - Get a GOOD drill bit. I got the cheapest one I could find thinking I will never use it again - It torqued and twisted and I went through 3 batteries drilling the 10 holes. Brother in law is a plumber and let me use his after doing 6 and wanted to give up due to wrist pain. His was a much better brand and didn't snag up once.
Also recommendations:
1.) There are two layers of board (at least with mine) You can feel once you get through the first layer. I would stop and take the plug out of the bit. This helped tremendously with not catching/ torquing my wrist.
I actually had to rip some of the foam off for the last 8 due to it being too tight.
Has anyone used cupholders that are the same diameter, just deeper? It seems like most have gone the “jumbo” 4 inch diameter route which require expanding the existing cutout. I dont think ill need anything wider than a can or bottle so, if possible would prefer the easier diy.
Can’t seem to find anything online that fits. I measured and my Barrington w/ LED cup holders are 3 3/8 edge to edge.
Has anyone used cupholders that are the same diameter, just deeper? It seems like most have gone the “jumbo” 4 inch diameter route which require expanding the existing cutout. I dont think ill need anything wider than a can or bottle so, if possible would prefer the easier diy.
Can’t seem to find anything online that fits. I measured and my Barrington w/ LED cup holders are 3 3/8 edge to edge.
So, I just found these. Same 3.5" lip to lip and about a half an inch deeper. Not sure how meaningful the extra half inch deep will be; though I like the idea of the same outer dimensions.
https://isuremarinehardware.com/pro...ndard-soda-can-for-desk-boats-rv-cars-trucks/ (https://isuremarinehardware.com/product/isure-marine-4pcs-3-stainless-steel-drop-in-anti-spill-cup-holder-with-non-slip-washerheavy-duty-poker-table-cup-holder-inserts-fits-standard-soda-can-for-desk-boats-rv-cars-trucks/)
They also have them on Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/?tag=amznpcfx-20), but the pricing isn't as good (2 for $16 on Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/?tag=amznpcfx-20) vs 4 for $20 direct).
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CPXSWVN...I7Y2Y1BEC&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it&th=1 (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CPXSWVN7/?coliid=I6QWAUG2N2C61&colid=37JHI7Y2Y1BEC&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it&th=1&tag=amznpcfx-20)
I found the above cupholders with the same outer dimensions. I ended up getting the larger and deeper ones everyone got. I'm very glad I went with the larger cupholders, but above is the links if you decide to just go deeper.
Has anyone used cupholders that are the same diameter, just deeper? It seems like most have gone the “jumbo” 4 inch diameter route which require expanding the existing cutout. I dont think ill need anything wider than a can or bottle so, if possible would prefer the easier diy.
Can’t seem to find anything online that fits. I measured and my Barrington w/ LED cup holders are 3 3/8 edge to edge.
You still need to cut holes with the smaller cup holders...why not get larger ones while you're going through the trouble?
You still need to cut holes with the smaller cup holders...why not get larger ones while you're going through the trouble?
I second this. This was my exact thought process. I actually bought deeper ones of the same width first and was irritated by the fact that the only fit beer bottles or cans, whiskey glasses and beer glasses were way to big to fit. Ended up going with wider cupholders and couldnt be happier.
Never was good with peer pressure.
4 inch jumbos and saw have been ordered
Never was good with peer pressure.
4 inch jumbos and saw have been ordered
I ordered mine a few months ago, still haven't dragged it outside to drill into!
You gotta go with the jumbo. I’ve had 3 games with my new table, and when my cousin put his tequila rocks ever so perfectly into the cup holders, I felt very satisfied
You gotta go with the jumbo. I’ve had 3 games with my new table, and when my cousin put his tequila rocks ever so perfectly into the cup holders, I felt very satisfied
Great idea…make it easier for your opponents to get drunk at the table. +EV :ROFL: :ROFLMAO:
Great idea…make it easier for your opponents to get drunk at the table. +EV :ROFL: :ROFLMAO:
i ended up drinking too, so it was neutral or -ev lol
If you’re going to go to a forum for experts opinions… take their advice! Just want to say I appreciate you guys swaying me to the jumbo cup holders rather than just deeper. I cant emphasize enough how glad i am went this route. Night and day difference!
Used @RadicusScout (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/10148/) blueprint from few pages back and worked flawlessly. One of the first diy projects that didn’t end up with multiple Home Depot trips or scouring YouTube to find a solution for a surprise/disaster mid project.
I went w/ the 3 5/8 Milwaukee and 3/8 Arbor. Worked like a charm. Once i get my custom topper and chips from the upcoming group order ill post better pictures but for the time being
If you’re going to go to a forum for experts opinions… take their advice! Just want to say I appreciate you guys swaying me to the jumbo cup holders rather than just deeper. I cant emphasize enough how glad i am went this route. Night and day difference!
Used @RadicusScout (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/10148/) blueprint from few pages back and worked flawlessly. One of the first diy projects that didn’t end up with multiple Home Depot trips or scouring YouTube to find a solution for a surprise/disaster mid project.
I went w/ the 3 5/8 Milwaukee and 3/8 Arbor. Worked like a charm. Once i get my custom topper and chips from the upcoming group order ill post better pictures but for the time being
That's an awesome looking upgrade! I'm happy my guide helped.
Looking forward to seeing the entire ensemble!
Can you guys please let this thread die before I end up buying one of these sumbitches.:confused
Can you guys please let this thread die before I end up buying one of these sumbitches.:confusedView attachment 1317457 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1317457/)
Can you guys please let this thread die before I end up buying one of these sumbitches.:(
Can you guys please let this thread die before I end up buying one of these sumbitches.:confusedView attachment 1317457 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1317457/)
Honestly, this table is great value for the money, especially if you wait for a sale. In hindsight, if I were playing with dice chips on a dining table, I’d upgrade to this table before getting chips. I also think it’s fine stock (the heavier LED version, at least), but definitely deeper/wider cup holders would be a nice upgrade, but not a must have for me. I’m thinking about a topper for purely aesthetic reasons, but the felt is fine and the crease in the middle went unnoticed during play.
Honestly, this table is great value for the money, especially if you wait for a sale. In hindsight, if I were playing with dice chips on a dining table, I’d upgrade to this table before getting chips. I also think it’s fine stock (the heavier LED version, at least), but definitely deeper/wider cup holders would be a nice upgrade, but not a must have for me. I’m thinking about a topper for purely aesthetic reasons, but the felt is fine and the crease in the middle went unnoticed during play.
The table is without question a monster step in the right direction if you're playing on some random table. And yes, it's my opinion too that the table should be upgraded before the chips, the table seems to be more important.
My issue with stock cup holders was that they appear to be cup holders, but they are closer to coasters. And I'm not against coasters, I played on a lifetime foldable table with some cheap felt I just put on top from Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/?tag=amznpcfx-20) for a long time - never had a spill. But, when you appear to be a cup holder when you're infact just a coaster, I felt it was more likely have spills - so I upgraded the cup holders before my first game. It was a pain in the butt, so worth it though.
And I also agree, the stock felt is fine and the crease isn't as bad as one may think. I say that but I do have a custom table top too.
The table is without question a monster step in the right direction if you're playing on some random table. And yes, it's my opinion too that the table should be upgraded before the chips, the table seems to be more important.
My issue with stock cup holders was that they appear to be cup holders, but they are closer to coasters. And I'm not against coasters, I played on a lifetime foldable table with some cheap felt I just put on top from Amazon for a long time - never had a spill. But, when you appear to be a cup holder when you're infact just a coaster, I felt it was more likely have spills - so I upgraded the cup holders before my first game. It was a pain in the butt, so worth it though.
And I also agree, the stock felt is fine and the crease isn't as bad as one may think. I say that but I do have a custom table top too.
I thought they were ashtrays
I know it’s been said but anyone on the fence about upgrading the cup holders and adding the cob led lights should DO IT! I finished this morning and wow what a difference the cup holders make.
I got the same lights linked earlier in the thread and they worked out great, it’s almost like they’re diffused already.
I’m not the most handy person, I did build my other table myself though, but this was pretty straightforward. Like everyone says, just go slow. By the start of the third one I was pretty confident and it went smooth from there knowing the feel and sounds to pay attention too. I even stopped a few times each hole to vacuum the saw dust out of the way and take a look.
Well worth the little bit it takes for these upgrades. Next step is a topper from @rjdev7 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/1014/). I just gotta place the order
The lights here are a little hard to see turned as dim as they are in the semi sunlight but they’re plenty bright turned all the way up. I’d say that’s about 20% in the pic which is actually about perfect in person
Are there any other vendors similar to rjdev that offer toppers? It sounds like he is understandably digging out of backlog of requests. I have no problem waiting and plan to buy multiple custom toppers from him based on reviews/feedback and rotate them.
I’d also like to get something nearer-term to get my game going.. can’t be having the black/brown stock barrington for opening night!
I recently upgraded my cup holders after a couple of close calls of having drinks spilled onto the playing surface. The cup holders that come with the table are a joke (a very cruel and sad joke). If you're on the fence about upgrading yours, don't delay. Get them upgraded. They're a huge improvement.
View attachment 1289094 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289094/)
I was really encouraged by the posts by @dmoney (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/3698/) and @greedyintern (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/17235/). Huge shout out to them and their guides. Those helped tremendously. This is dedicated to @Saoliver (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/1603/) who asked for a video (in the thread - not to me personally) but this is as close to a video I could muster. I hope this is helpful. :)
Items/tools:
View attachment 1289142 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289142/)
Replacement cup holders (https://www.amazon.com/YH-Poker-Jumbo-Stainless-Holders/dp/B0789HG6NW/?tag=amznpcfx-20)
Gloves
Eye protection
Auto trim removal tool (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C6V39SVH?tag=amznpcfx-20)
Screwdriver
Hole saw (3 5/8") (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01987566S?tag=amznpcfx-20) - (In retrospect, I would have used a different hole saw. Maybe the Milwaukee one)
Tape measure
Cardboard sheet
Hole saw arbor
1/4" drill bit
1/8" drill bit
Screw
Drill
Hair dryer (not pictured)
Step 1: Remove original cup holders
This step is pretty simple. Set the hairdryer on high heat and keep it approximately 1 inch away from the cup holder for about a minute. Most of the cup holders will only require a minute for the glue to loosen up. I only had a couple that needed more time. For those, I did it again for another minute.
View attachment 1289155 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289155/)
After the hairdryer, use the auto trim tool to pry the cup holder away from the loose glue. Work the tool around the cup holder while gently pulling the cup and glue apart.
View attachment 1289156 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289156/)
A couple of things to keep in mind when you remove the cup holder from the table:
The cup holder will be hot from the hairdryer so wear your gloves.
The glue will be very sticky so pull directly up and not to the side. Try not to get any on your the table/padding.
View attachment 1289157 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289157/)
Step 2: Mark the drill hole
Before you move onto this step, make sure all the glue has completely cooled off and dried.
This step is relatively easy but requires some concentration. The exactness of this step will ensure your new cup holders will be where you want them to be.
The original cup holders on my Barrington is measured at 3 1/2" across. You should double check yours if you're going to follow this step of my guide.
View attachment 1289168 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289168/)
The new cup holders measure 4" across.
View attachment 1289169 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289169/)
Since the size difference between the 2 cup holders is 1/2", we will need to mark the new center hole 1/4" away from the original center.
Here is a reference on how I calculated my center hole. I started the measure from the outer edge of the original cup holder. The idea is to mark the new center at the 2" mark.
View attachment 1289453 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289453/)
Here is a better visualization of this. The new center hole has to be 1/4" closer to the table and yet remain in center of the left/right side edges.
View attachment 1289461 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289461/)
I tried using a marker on the glue but found it difficult to accurately mark the exact location of the new hole. I decided to use a screw instead and that worked much better. The good thing about this is that I could move the screw easily to make fine adjustments as much as I needed. Once I've double (tripled!) checked my measurement I screwed in the screw to make a pilot hole. I didn't drill too deep - just deep enough to make a visible hole.
View attachment 1289462 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289462/)
Ultimately, I ended up with this outcome. I then took my 1/8" drill bit and drilled through the table using the pilot hole as a guide.
View attachment 1289471 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289471/)
Step 3: Drill out the new holes (from the bottom)
Flip the table upside down.
Before I drilled the hole with my hole saw, I drilled through the existing hole using the 1/4" drill bit. The reason for this is that the drill arbor is 1/4" so I wanted to make sure the arbor was aligned exactly to the new center. In retrospect, I suspect I could have used the 1/4" bit instead of the 1/8" bit in Step 2 and saved a step.
Drilling the hole was the worst part (for me). The hardest part was intentionally going slow and not hurry the process. The thing to note here is to stop drilling immediately after you've broken through to the foam. I was a nervous wreck trying not to over drill.
As you can see below, the foam is glued to the wood so I had to carefully separate the foam after I had drilled through the wood. Try to retain as much foam as you can in the original hole. This will help with the snugness of the new cup holder.
View attachment 1289474 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289474/)
Here is an "in progress" picture of the process. I really wanted to see the new cup holder put in so I did that one right away (it's rad). I was also doubting I did the math properly in Step 2 so I wanted to quadruple check it was right (it was). TRUST THE MATH!
I also wanted to show the new Barringtons have clearance for the holes without sawing any of the posts.
Please ignore my monstrosity of a drill. The nerds over at r/tools will ban me if they ever saw that thing.
View attachment 1289481 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289481/)
Step 4: Insert new cup holders and ENJOY
This step is easy and the most enjoyable. The new cup holders will be very snug (tight) in the new opening. I used a cardboard sheet to help me evenly apply pressure and knead the cup holder in. Think flattening pizza dough - same idea and motion.
Others mentioned having to tape their new cup holders with masking / duct tape to make them snug but I didn't have to do that. The foam and vinyl were enough to keep these cup holders very tight and snug. Oh, speaking of foam, trim away the excess foam that will be sticking out of the bottom after you're all done.
That's it! Enjoy your new rad cup holders!
Don't yell at me about my chairs. They're next to be upgraded!
View attachment 1289497 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289497/)
Quoting this to force myself to actually do it soon. Ive had the cupholders for too long.
Quoting this to force myself to actually do it soon. Ive had the cupholders for too long.
I believe in you. You got this.
Quoting this to force myself to actually do it soon. Ive had the cupholders for too long.
I did the exact same thing - once you realize that basically worst case scenario is the cup holders aren't SUPER tight, which you can fix by wrapping them in tape or saran wrap, and they still will sit in and not fall out - you should get the courage. Only advice I'd give is dish out the extra cash for a really good circle bit. I bought the cheapest on amazon (https://www.amazon.com/?tag=amznpcfx-20) and I mean, you get what you pay for.
Quoting this to force myself to actually do it soon. Ive had the cupholders for too long.
Quoting this to force myself to actually do it soon. Ive had the cupholders for too long.
Youre all bullies, I still haven't done this.
Youre all bullies, I still haven't done this.
110% Game changer - I did the cup holders and topper and everyone cared and commented on the cup holders more than the new topper
I’ve been hemming and hawing on the LED version. if it was no light I’d snap one up from the Walmart sale. … these tables look great.
I’ve been hemming and hawing on the LED version. if it was no light I’d snap one up from the Walmart sale. … these tables look great.
I didn't get the lighted table and do not regret it. I don't have lighting issues and (to me) it's just another cable for someone to trip over
I didn't get the lighted table and do not regret it. I don't have lighting issues and (to me) it's just another cable for someone to trip over
I own two of the lighted tables. I never use the lights and TBH I'm not sure I even know where the cables are - stuck in a drawer somewhere, presumably. The bright blue LEDs are painful. :cool
But in addition to lights, that version of the table has a thicker plywood base and larger legs. It's a sturdier (but also heavier) table. When I bought them it was a $20-30 price difference and turned out to be well worth it.
Youre all bullies, I still haven't done this.
Last night someone knocked their elbow into a beer bottle and it woulda spilled, but the jumbo cup holder saved it. No joke! I was very proud.
I got 2 tables, 1 ea, when they went on sale last time. .
I ordered mine a few months ago, still haven't dragged it outside to drill into!
Quoting this to force myself to actually do it soon. Ive had the cupholders for too long.
I believe in you. You got this.
Youre all bullies, I still haven't done this.
TODAY IS THE DAY.
TODAY IS THE DAY.
HAVE FUN!
Pics or it didn't happen.
TODAY IS THE DAY.
ALRIGHT. Step one done, was definitely afraid of ruining the rail already. We got this.
ALRIGHT. Step one done, was definitely afraid of ruining the rail already. We got this.
View attachment 1341798 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1341798/)
Everything looks wrong but thats how projects go until they're done, then I love my work for all its imperfections. Pilots in place like I'm grounded, storm comin, I'm standin in place but the drill runnin.
Everything looks wrong but thats how projects go until they're done, then I love my work for all its imperfections. Pilots in place like I'm grounded, storm comin, I'm standin in place but the drill runnin.
View attachment 1341821 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1341821/)
Not done with the hole yet but gotta cut the fabric safely. Also dont have the pipe cutter so 4 of the 10 aren't getting done today.
Edit: mission currently postponed due to hangry wife. Agreed plan is no longer in place.
Not done with the hole yet but gotta cut the fabric safely. Also dont have the pipe cutter so 4 of the 10 aren't getting done today.
View attachment 1341855 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1341855/)
Edit: mission currently postponed due to hangry wife. Agreed plan is no longer in place.
View attachment 1341903 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1341903/)
:ROFL: :ROFLMAO: :ROFL: :ROFLMAO: :ROFL: :ROFLMAO:
:ROFL: :ROFLMAO: :ROFL: :ROFLMAO: :ROFL: :ROFLMAO:
Well TIMED, PADRE. Just purchased this. Game next Saturday, gotta finish today.
Well TIMED, PADRE. Just purchased this. Game next Saturday, gotta finish today.
View attachment 1344848 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1344848/)
Wait…for that you need to remove the legs from the top to cut them, correct?
I would think it would be far easier with an oscillating tool or angle grinder with a metal cutoff blade/wheel. If you don’t have, maybe borrow or rent?
Well TIMED, PADRE. Just purchased this. Game next Saturday, gotta finish today.
View attachment 1344848 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1344848/)
Excited to see how it turns out!! Hope you know that my post was all in good fun as I love seeing the projects people get into and getting new tips and ideas from them.
Wait…for that you need to remove the Leah’s from the top to cut them correct?
I would think it would be far easier with an oscillating tool or angle grinder with a metal cutoff blade/wheel. If you don’t have, maybe borrow or rent?
Eh, youre probably right but didnt want to purchase one. Why is taking the legs off so tough? Getting the table out now.
Excited to see how it turns out!! Hope you know that my post was all in good fun as I love seeing the projects people get into and getting new tips and ideas from them.
For sure, no problem at all.
Eh, youre probably right but didnt want to purchase one. Why is taking the legs off so tough? Getting the table out now.
For sure, no problem at all.
Yeah definitely not worth buying an expensive tool for this. If taking off the top isn’t too much trouble, that’s great! :tup:
@Colquhoun (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/7696/) always appreciate your input, no problem. Legs come off easy enough, finished up the other holes and will do these next before lining up the legs and knocking some inches off em.
@Colquhoun (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/7696/) always appreciate your input, no problem. Legs come off easy enough, finished up the other holes and will do these next before lining up the legs and knocking some inches off em.
View attachment 1344875 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1344875/)
Am I the only one who didn’t have to mess with the legs for the cup holders? I’m confused…
Am I the only one who didn’t have to mess with the legs for the cup holders? I’m confused…
Newer ones you don't need to. Older version you gotta.
Newer ones you don't need to. Older version you gotta.
Ohhh ok, gotchya.
Okay! Pipes cut, holes cut, table is righted. Now Ive got to widen the pleather a bit and sink the cupholders.
AYOOOOOOOOO
Im the man. Took me 174 months to do this but eventually just used some noise cancelling headphones to ignore the corgi and bagpipes.
They're definitely not all centered, but my apes can't make change so Im not worried about it. Table was $86; with cupholders, tools to implement, topper, and bag for table and topper I might as well have just gone custom.
@KingHigh (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/16959/) surprisingly easy, but if you've got the old version make sure you get a pipe cutter too. Doesn't have to be fancy. I'll post a picture here of the finished product tomorrow, hosting first game since I dropped the bigger cupholders.
@KingHigh (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/16959/) surprisingly easy, but if you've got the old version make sure you get a pipe cutter too. Doesn't have to be fancy. I'll post a picture here of the finished product tomorrow, hosting first game since I dropped the bigger cupholders.
Good luck with your game! Gonna be great
I know it’s been said but anyone on the fence about upgrading the cup holders and adding the cob led lights should DO IT! I finished this morning and wow what a difference the cup holders make.
I got the same lights linked earlier in the thread and they worked out great, it’s almost like they’re diffused already.
I’m not the most handy person, I did build my other table myself though, but this was pretty straightforward. Like everyone says, just go slow. By the start of the third one I was pretty confident and it went smooth from there knowing the feel and sounds to pay attention too. I even stopped a few times each hole to vacuum the saw dust out of the way and take a look.
Well worth the little bit it takes for these upgrades. Next step is a topper from @rjdev7 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/1014/). I just gotta place the order
The lights here are a little hard to see turned as dim as they are in the semi sunlight but they’re plenty bright turned all the way up. I’d say that’s about 20% in the pic which is actually about perfect in person
The lights look very cool! Would you mind sending me the link to order? Thanks!
I’m removing the original cupholders to replace them with jumbo sized. I’ve encountered the strap right through the center of the cup. Can someone tell me if this is this the end of my table having a functioning buckle? I assume I need to cut/drill through it.
View attachment 1347598 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1347598/)I’m removing the original cupholders to replace them with jumbo sized. I’ve encountered the strap right through the center of the cup. Can someone tell me if this is this the end of my table having a functioning buckle? I assume I need to cut/drill through it.
I drilled thru mine accidentally and so far still functions fine. But I haven’t tested it extensively, so don’t quote me. Just be careful and be aware it’s lost some strength.
Was able to remove the strap, cut the hole and reattach it with a screw to the side. Worked out well. Thanks.
View attachment 1249332 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1249332/)
That sounds like a great idea! How did you go about doing that?
I drilled thru mine accidentally and so far still functions fine. But I haven’t tested it extensively, so don’t quote me. Just be careful and be aware it’s lost some strength.
Thanks for the info. I have a carry bag for my table so drilling through it could work out fine for me is what I’m thinking
NOTE: I have not purchased this table.
On wayfair. This folding table comes with a cheap bag and deeper cup holders. Not sure how the money works out compared to an on sale Barrington with upgrades, but might be worth a look?
Wayfair LINK (https://www.wayfair.com/furniture/pdp/avawing-72-8-player-poker-table-aawc1123.html)
Good bit smaller than the Barrington. Wish it was a touch bigger.
NOTE: I have not purchased this table.
On wayfair. This folding table comes with a cheap bag and deeper cup holders. Not sure how the money works out compared to an on sale Barrington with upgrades, but might be worth a look?
Wayfair LINK (https://www.wayfair.com/furniture/pdp/avawing-72-8-player-poker-table-aawc1123.html)
Good looks, but yeah too small
So a question I have not seen asked or answered. Have started to replace cupholders on my Barrington table. My question is this: How do you avoid messing up the straps that hold the table together when its folded. The straps are anchored under the cups at each end. There appears no way to remove them without removing the rail, and I would prefer to avoid that.
The lights look very cool! Would you mind sending me the link to order? Thanks!
Thanks! I really like them. Here’s the ones I got from Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/?tag=amznpcfx-20), I believe they’re the same ones linked somewhere earlier in the thread. First is the lights, second is the connectors and third is the dimmers I used.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BVR755VK?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BVR755VK?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share&tag=amznpcfx-20)
https://a.co/d/0ie6XsZe (https://a.co/d/0ie6XsZe?tag=amznpcfx-20)
weideer 2Pcs DC12V-24V LED Strip... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B092HX9435?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B092HX9435?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share&tag=amznpcfx-20)
Thanks! I really like them. Here’s the ones I got from Amazon, I believe they’re the same ones linked somewhere earlier in the thread. First is the lights, second is the connectors and third is the dimmers I used.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BVR755VK?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BVR755VK?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share&tag=amznpcfx-20)
https://a.co/d/0ie6XsZe (https://a.co/d/0ie6XsZe?tag=amznpcfx-20)
weideer 2Pcs DC12V-24V LED Strip... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B092HX9435?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B092HX9435?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share&tag=amznpcfx-20)
Very cool! I have the newer Barrington without the LEDs. I feel like it would look odd if I just glued LEDs to the inside of the vinyl. Is the Barrington w LEDs railing designed differently?
So a question I have not seen asked or answered. Have started to replace cupholders on my Barrington table. My question is this: How do you avoid messing up the straps that hold the table together when it’s folded. The straps are anchored under the cups at each end. There appears no way to remove them without removing the rail, and I would prefer to avoid that.
I did the cupholders replacement job for myself just today. I sawed right through the straps. The clip end of the straps seem to be attached by the piece on the strap that is pressed under the railing. Surely the integrity of the strap has been compromised but I get the feeling it will still hold the table together well enough for me to put it in the bag and zip it up.
Very cool! I have the newer Barrington without the LEDs. I feel like it would look odd if I just glued LEDs to the inside of the vinyl. Is the Barrington w LEDs railing designed differently?
I believe the rail on the LED table is raised just a tiny bit to fit the lights, they’re like tucked under it. I didn’t have to actually glue the new ones in, I just pushed them into place right over the old ones. I’m not sure if they would fit under the regular table rail or not.
As far as the strap in the cup holder I sawed through mine as well and feel the same as you about its integrity surely being compromised but it seems to be holding the table together just fine. I don’t move it around much so I wasn’t that worried about it anyway.
Thanks! I really like them. Here’s the ones I got from Amazon, I believe they’re the same ones linked somewhere earlier in the thread. First is the lights, second is the connectors and third is the dimmers I used.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BVR755VK?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BVR755VK?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share&tag=amznpcfx-20)
https://a.co/d/0ie6XsZe (https://a.co/d/0ie6XsZe?tag=amznpcfx-20)
weideer 2Pcs DC12V-24V LED Strip... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B092HX9435?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B092HX9435?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share&tag=amznpcfx-20)
I love this setup and have thought about it for a while.
I'm curious if anyone has done the same thing with RGB cob replacements, and if so what they used? I find myself a little lost with connectors and whatnot. I'd love to get everything you got and just change it to RGB cob instead of just white.
I love this setup and have thought about it for a while.
I'm curious if anyone has done the same thing with RGB cob replacements, and if so what they used? I find myself a little lost with connectors and whatnot. I'd love to get everything you got and just change it to RGB cob instead of just white.
You should do it, it’s simple. If you order from the links above I’m confident you wouldn’t have any problems. I was the same way with the connectors and all that but once you get it all and look at it you can tell how they connect and what not.
For the actual install on the table I just pushed them under the rail right over the existing lights and it fits perfectly. No glue or anything like that and they haven’t moved at all. I would recommend getting the dimmers though, they’re pretty bright at 100% so it’s nice to be able to adjust them however bright you want.
You should do it, it’s simple. If you order from the links above I’m confident you wouldn’t have any problems. I was the same way with the connectors and all that but once you get it all and look at it you can tell how they connect and what not.
For the actual install on the table I just pushed them under the rail right over the existing lights and it fits perfectly. No glue or anything like that and they haven’t moved at all. I would recommend getting the dimmers though, they’re pretty bright at 100% so it’s nice to be able to adjust them however bright you want.
I actually do already have the dimmers, love them!
I will eventually get something and I know I could figure it out given the right connections. My fear is some of the RGB COB lights have what visually appear to be slightly different connections, so I'm afraid I'll buy all this just to realize the connectors you linked don't match up to the rgb lights. Hate to waste money on guess and check stuff, ya know. Also, I just clicked the link and remembered, the last time I looked they were currently unavailable and they still are, so I'd have to wait for those to come back into stock regardless.
I actually do already have the dimmers, love them!
I will eventually get something and I know I could figure it out given the right connections. My fear is some of the RGB COB lights have what visually appear to be slightly different connections, so I'm afraid I'll buy all this just to realize the connectors you linked don't match up to the rgb lights. Hate to waste money on guess and check stuff, ya know. Also, I just clicked the link and remembered, the last time I looked they were currently unavailable and they still are, so I'd have to wait for those to come back into stock regardless.
The difficulty is finding RGB COB lights that are small enough.
I needed to find 8mm lights and the only COB lights I could find at that width were single color.
Every RGB COB strip I've found is 50% wider at 12mm.
They still might work, but I might be tight and a little more difficult to get them in there. If you do go that route, please report back! I'd be down to swap mine out eventually.
The difficulty is finding RGB COB lights that are small enough.
I needed to find 8mm lights and the only COB lights I could find at that width were single color.
Every RGB COB strip I've found is 50% wider at 12mm.
They still might work, but I might be tight and a little more difficult to get them in there. If you do go that route, please report back! I'd be down to swap mine out eventually.
Oh that's riiight, I forgot about that part. I found some that were 10mm I think, but it was hardwired or something, I forget. Too many question marks with what I found for me to blindly buy and try at the time. Maybe I'll revisit it soon.
I recently upgraded my cup holders after a couple of close calls of having drinks spilled onto the playing surface. The cup holders that come with the table are a joke (a very cruel and sad joke). If you're on the fence about upgrading yours, don't delay. Get them upgraded. They're a huge improvement.
View attachment 1289094 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289094/)
I was really encouraged by the posts by @dmoney (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/3698/) and @greedyintern (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/17235/). Huge shout out to them and their guides. Those helped tremendously. This is dedicated to @Saoliver (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/1603/) who asked for a video (in the thread - not to me personally) but this is as close to a video I could muster. I hope this is helpful. :)
Items/tools:
View attachment 1289142 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289142/)
Replacement cup holders (https://www.amazon.com/YH-Poker-Jumbo-Stainless-Holders/dp/B0789HG6NW/?tag=amznpcfx-20)
Gloves
Eye protection
Auto trim removal tool (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C6V39SVH?tag=amznpcfx-20)
Screwdriver
Hole saw (3 5/8") (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01987566S?tag=amznpcfx-20) - (In retrospect, I would have used a different hole saw. Maybe the Milwaukee one)
Tape measure
Cardboard sheet
Hole saw arbor
1/4" drill bit
1/8" drill bit
Screw
Drill
Hair dryer (not pictured)
Step 1: Remove original cup holders
This step is pretty simple. Set the hairdryer on high heat and keep it approximately 1 inch away from the cup holder for about a minute. Most of the cup holders will only require a minute for the glue to loosen up. I only had a couple that needed more time. For those, I did it again for another minute.
View attachment 1289155 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289155/)
After the hairdryer, use the auto trim tool to pry the cup holder away from the loose glue. Work the tool around the cup holder while gently pulling the cup and glue apart.
View attachment 1289156 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289156/)
A couple of things to keep in mind when you remove the cup holder from the table:
The cup holder will be hot from the hairdryer so wear your gloves.
The glue will be very sticky so pull directly up and not to the side. Try not to get any on your the table/padding.
View attachment 1289157 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289157/)
Step 2: Mark the drill hole
Before you move onto this step, make sure all the glue has completely cooled off and dried.
This step is relatively easy but requires some concentration. The exactness of this step will ensure your new cup holders will be where you want them to be.
The original cup holders on my Barrington is measured at 3 1/2" across. You should double check yours if you're going to follow this step of my guide.
View attachment 1289168 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289168/)
The new cup holders measure 4" across.
View attachment 1289169 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289169/)
Since the size difference between the 2 cup holders is 1/2", we will need to mark the new center hole 1/4" away from the original center.
Here is a reference on how I calculated my center hole. I started the measure from the outer edge of the original cup holder. The idea is to mark the new center at the 2" mark.
View attachment 1289453 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289453/)
Here is a better visualization of this. The new center hole has to be 1/4" closer to the table and yet remain in center of the left/right side edges.
View attachment 1289461 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289461/)
I tried using a marker on the glue but found it difficult to accurately mark the exact location of the new hole. I decided to use a screw instead and that worked much better. The good thing about this is that I could move the screw easily to make fine adjustments as much as I needed. Once I've double (tripled!) checked my measurement I screwed in the screw to make a pilot hole. I didn't drill too deep - just deep enough to make a visible hole.
View attachment 1289462 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289462/)
Ultimately, I ended up with this outcome. I then took my 1/8" drill bit and drilled through the table using the pilot hole as a guide.
View attachment 1289471 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289471/)
Step 3: Drill out the new holes (from the bottom)
Flip the table upside down.
Before I drilled the hole with my hole saw, I drilled through the existing hole using the 1/4" drill bit. The reason for this is that the drill arbor is 1/4" so I wanted to make sure the arbor was aligned exactly to the new center. In retrospect, I suspect I could have used the 1/4" bit instead of the 1/8" bit in Step 2 and saved a step.
Drilling the hole was the worst part (for me). The hardest part was intentionally going slow and not hurry the process. The thing to note here is to stop drilling immediately after you've broken through to the foam. I was a nervous wreck trying not to over drill.
As you can see below, the foam is glued to the wood so I had to carefully separate the foam after I had drilled through the wood. Try to retain as much foam as you can in the original hole. This will help with the snugness of the new cup holder.
View attachment 1289474 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289474/)
Here is an "in progress" picture of the process. I really wanted to see the new cup holder put in so I did that one right away (it's rad). I was also doubting I did the math properly in Step 2 so I wanted to quadruple check it was right (it was). TRUST THE MATH!
I also wanted to show the new Barringtons have clearance for the holes without sawing any of the posts.
Please ignore my monstrosity of a drill. The nerds over at r/tools will ban me if they ever saw that thing.
View attachment 1289481 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289481/)
Step 4: Insert new cup holders and ENJOY
This step is easy and the most enjoyable. The new cup holders will be very snug (tight) in the new opening. I used a cardboard sheet to help me evenly apply pressure and knead the cup holder in. Think flattening pizza dough - same idea and motion.
Others mentioned having to tape their new cup holders with masking / duct tape to make them snug but I didn't have to do that. The foam and vinyl were enough to keep these cup holders very tight and snug. Oh, speaking of foam, trim away the excess foam that will be sticking out of the bottom after you're all done.
That's it! Enjoy your new rad cup holders!
Don't yell at me about my chairs. They're next to be upgraded!
View attachment 1289497 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289497/)
Thank you for this how-to post! It was my road map and gave me the confidence to do my own cup holder replacement. I’m happy to report that everything went well and my table came out looking great. I also gained some new found confidence in my woodworking abilities and am already planning my next project. Good times!
I did the cupholders replacement job for myself just today. I sawed right through the straps. The clip end of the straps seem to be attached by the piece on the strap that is pressed under the railing. Surely the integrity of the strap has been compromised but I get the feeling it will still hold the table together well enough for me to put it in the bag and zip it up.
Thanks
I have the old Barrington table and I already pulled the cup holders out. Is there a better way of finding the center of the holes than just eye balling it? The leather isn’t cut evenly so it’s difficult to measure the center of the hole exactly.
I have the old Barrington table and I already pulled the cup holders out. Is there a better way of finding the center of the holes than just eye balling it? The leather isn’t cut evenly so it’s difficult to measure the center of the hole exactly.
You could make a template by cutting a paper circle the size of the cup holder. Then fold the paper circle in half in a couple of different directions, and where the fold lines intersect, is the center. Place the paper circle in the hole and mark the center with an awl or sharp point.
You could make a template by cutting a paper circle the size of the cup holder. Then fold the paper circle in half in a couple of different directions, and where the fold lines intersect, is the center. Place the paper circle in the hole and mark the center with an awl or sharp point.
This is genius! Thank you
You could make a template by cutting a paper circle the size of the cup holder. Then fold the paper circle in half in a couple of different directions, and where the fold lines intersect, is the center. Place the paper circle in the hole and mark the center with an awl or sharp point.
This is the way
This is genius! Thank you
And there's a post from @RadicusScout (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/10148/) back in March, with a step-by-step guide to installing the larger cupholders, and not using the center, but offsetting it by 1/4":
https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/barrington-poker-table-thread.30910/post-2405037
And there's a post from @RadicusScout (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/10148/) back in March, with a step-by-step guide to installing the larger cupholders, and not using the center, but offsetting it by 1/4":
https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/barrington-poker-table-thread.30910/post-2405037
This is how I did it, worked perfectly.
And there's a post from @RadicusScout (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/10148/) back in March, with a step-by-step guide to installing the larger cupholders, and not using the center, but offsetting it by 1/4":
https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/barrington-poker-table-thread.30910/post-2405037
I decided to go deeper instead of jumbo, but do have his guide bookmarked. Thanks!
Back on sale at Walmart. $198 for basic and $218 for LED
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Barrington-10-Player-Poker-Table-No-Assembly-Required/55465427
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Barringt...In-laid-LED-Lights-Brown-and-Black/3963393753 (https://www.walmart.com/ip/Barrington-10-Player-Poker-Table-with-In-laid-LED-Lights-Brown-and-Black/3963393753)
I finally did it and it wasn’t as scary as I thought it would be. I got a lot of help from this forum so just wanted to say thanks. Also, one of my cups sag a bit too much into the armrest but the rest are good. Hopefully there will be no more spilling at my games.
So I finished my Barrington mods (for now) but still need to order a topper.
New LEDs, Dimmer, AA Battery Pack, and Jumbo Cupholders
COB LEDs
I wasn't the biggest fan of the blue LEDs and didn't like how they were so spaced out. I saw someone talk about the COB LEDs and how they are amost diffused already and ordered the warm white and couldn't be happier. The LEDs are very close together so you don't need to put something in front of them to diffuse them like I was trying to do with the old LEDs. Instead of ripping out the old LEDs, I actually just wedged the new LEDs right on top of the current ones. It worked out great.
I did have to cut the light strip and attach another tail end. Very easy to do but measure accurately before you cut! You don't have much leeway with the 16.4ft strip. And then used the Y connector that also came with the COB connector package.
Screwed and glued on some velcro, glued velcro to the battery pack, then buttoned up everything else. Happy with it.
COB LED Lights (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BVR755VK?tag=amznpcfx-20)
COB Connector Package (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C2CVFGL8?tag=amznpcfx-20)
Dimmer (https://www.amazon.com/weideer-Lights-Dimmer-DC12V-24V-K-018-BK/dp/B092HX9435?tag=amznpcfx-20)
Battery Pack (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09131Y9L8?tag=amznpcfx-20)
Jumbo Cupholders
I went with the jumbos after reading recommendations. Pried off the old ones with a vise grip, drilled a center hole down with a standard bit, then drilled from the bottom up with the 3 5/8in hole saw starting it the pre drilled hole. I got them all done but it was a bit of a struggle with the hole saw I bought. If I would do it again, I would get one that was deeper. This one barely made it through both pieces of wood.
Jumbo Cupholders (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0789HG6NW?tag=amznpcfx-20)
Hole Saw (buy a deeper one) (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0C6MN14B1?tag=amznpcfx-20)
View attachment 1252914 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1252914/)
Hey @greedyintern (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/17235/) , the COB led connector package seems to be unavailable on Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/?tag=amznpcfx-20). I don't know anything about these and would like to do the LED mod, is there another connector package on Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/?tag=amznpcfx-20) that is comparable?
Thanks!
Out with the old in with the new!!
Hey @greedyintern (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/17235/) , the COB led connector package seems to be unavailable on Amazon. I don't know anything about these and would like to do the LED mod, is there another connector package on Amazon that is comparable?
Thanks!
The battery pack is also unavailable. I'm looking for the same stuff lol just ordered 2 new tables to save some change instead of gorilla tables and wanting to upgrade the LEDs. Can you just use a dimmer on the existing LEDs? Does it take any extra hardware other than the dimmer switch posted earlier?
Hey @greedyintern (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/17235/) , the COB led connector package seems to be unavailable on Amazon. I don't know anything about these and would like to do the LED mod, is there another connector package on Amazon that is comparable?
Thanks!
The battery pack is also unavailable. I'm looking for the same stuff lol just ordered 2 new tables to save some change instead of gorilla tables and wanting to upgrade the LEDs. Can you just use a dimmer on the existing LEDs? Does it take any extra hardware other than the dimmer switch posted earlier?
Ah that stinks. I'll look for another COB kit with the Y connector. And a battery pack!
Yes, you can just use the dimmer with the existing stock LEDs
Ah that stinks. I'll look for another COB kit with the Y connector. And a battery pack!
Yes, you can just use the dimmer with the existing stock LEDs
Appreciate you following up and helping us. I might just go with a dimmer on the stock LEDs. Does the one you linked plug right up?
Anyone have any tips or product suggestions for treating and reparing tears/rips in the vinyl rail?
Got the new LED version it's much nicer than the old Barrington. Much nicer rail. Feels more solid too.Time to retire the old one for nothing but travel.
In case any New Englanders are looking for a discounted base model: https://www.pokerchipforum.com/thre...le-and-eight-cushioned-folding-chairs.121757/ (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/boston-massachusetts-barrington-poker-table-and-eight-cushioned-folding-chairs.121757/)
Big shout out to @greedyintern (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/17235/) , just did the LED mod. I used a different brand but it was a COB LED.
The hardest part for me was routing the LED from the top of the table to the bottom. Instead of a dimmer, I installed a zigbee controller and I got a rechargeable wireless battery to power them. Now I can control the LEDs from my phone thru HomeKit.
I also installed the handles. Going to attempt the cupholder mod next.
Now I can control the LEDs from my phone thru HomeKit.
Awesome! Taking it to another level!
Big shout out to @greedyintern (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/17235/) , just did the LED mod. I used a different brand but it was a COB LED.
The hardest part for me was routing the LED from the top of the table to the bottom. Instead of a dimmer, I installed a zigbee controller and I got a rechargeable wireless battery to power them. Now I can control the LEDs from my phone thru HomeKit.
I also installed the handles. Going to attempt the cupholder mod next.
This is great! Can you post the links to the parts you purchased? I’m going to try this at some point…
Awesome! Taking it to another level!
This is great! Can you post the links to the parts you purchased? I’m going to try this at some point…
LEDs - BTF-LIGHTING FCOB COB LED Strip... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08VW7RQQJ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08VW7RQQJ?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share&tag=amznpcfx-20)
Led connectors
BTF-LIGHTING FCOB COB 8mm 0.31in... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09W8L842N?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09W8L842N?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share&tag=amznpcfx-20)
Zigbee controller, if you don’t have zigbee look for WiFi or other tech
BTF-LIGHTING Tuya Zigbee 3.0 C01Z... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BPBPRXG9?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BPBPRXG9?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share&tag=amznpcfx-20)
Battery pack
TalentCell Rechargeable 12V DC... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MHNQIR2?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MHNQIR2?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share&tag=amznpcfx-20)
Let me know if any questions about anything.
Time to dive in. Definitely want to change the LEDs and cupholders. Works fine for now, though!
Good luck. Just completed the cup holders. I’m the least handy person ever, so if I can do it anyone can. Was able to do it with no help and rather proud of myself lol
Good luck. Took a few hours between few days but ended up good.
Good luck. Just completed the cup holders. I’m the least handy person ever, so if I can do it anyone can. Was able to do it with no help and rather proud of myself lol
Good luck. Took a few hours between few days but ended up good.
Again big thanks to @greedyintern (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/17235/) - followed his write up and once you get the tools and your hands dirty it becomes straight forward.
Now can’t wait to play!!!
Again big thanks to @greedyintern (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/17235/) - followed his write up and once you get the tools and your hands dirty it becomes straight forward.
Now can’t wait to play!!!
Glad you were able to do it! It does feel great once you get it all finished and upgraded. Well worth it and a great sense of accomplishment.
Good luck out there!
Good luck. Just completed the cup holders. I’m the least handy person ever, so if I can do it anyone can. Was able to do it with no help and rather proud of myself lol
Good luck. Took a few hours between few days but ended up good.
Seems doable for sure! Just have to make the time.
Seems doable for sure! Just have to make the time.
If it helps. I spent more time reading all the posts than the actual time to do the job. LED lights I spent about two hrs (most of the time was just getting the entry point) and the cup holders I would say about 4-5 hours.
use the hair dryer low and to the center for a few mins till the original ones become hot and used a plastic pry tool till it gives. The hair dryer part took about an hour and drilling and vacuuming those holes took the rest of the time.
Got a question for you all. I don’t keep the table open all the time, only when we host games. Does anyone have any good advice on how to open and close the table, already got some scuff marks on the wood on the side.
Is there a trick to easily open and close the table and carry it away?
I put it on an area rug and unfold the legs, then lift from one of the longer sides such that the legs nearest to me catch onto the rug. Then, while the legs on the far side are still lifted, I move around to that side and gently place them down.
The instructions demand that you have a second person help you flip the table without using two legs to hold the weight as described above, but that is overly cautious imo. They are very strong.
I have a padded dolly that I use to move it to and from its storage area.
I’ve done it myself but I should get that dolly to put it back in storage - that’s a great idea. Then ask whatever player to give me a hand for setup.
Got a question for you all. I don’t keep the table open all the time, only when we host games. Does anyone have any good advice on how to open and close the table, already got some scuff marks on the wood on the side.
Is there a trick to easily open and close the table and carry it away?
I usually open the table by myself. I put down a rug and open one side and pull the leg out and do the same for the opposite side. Once the table is fully opened on its side. I push on the top left leg of one side of the table and lean my body back while holding the center of the table to get it up.
If this is too much work I’d just wait for my friends to come and help me setup the table.
I usually open the table by myself. I put down a rug and open one side and pull the leg out and do the same for the opposite side. Once the table is fully opened on its side. I push on the top left leg of one side of the table and lean my body back while holding the center of the table to get it up.
If this is too much work I’d just wait for my friends to come and help me setup the table.
This is exactly what I was doing but I noticed the side is a bit scuffed from all the open and closing. I figure I can put it up but have my friends help me put it back when nights over.
When did the price jump back up? Just received a topper and was ready to pull the trigger. :mad:
When did the price jump back up? Just received a topper and was ready to pull the trigger. :mad:
I paid the higher price
The hardest part for me was routing the LED from the top of the table to the bottom.
Tell me about this part. Do I need to flip the table over for this, or can I release the legs on one side and kind of half-crack it while it’s still upright?
I guess if I have to flip the thing I’ll do the cup holders at same time. Cup holders and replacement LED strips have been here forever, stuck behind my laziness.
Tell me about this part. Do I need to flip the table over for this, or can I release the legs on one side and kind of half-crack it while it’s still upright?
I guess if I have to flip the thing I’ll do the cup holders at same time. Cup holders and replacement LED strips have been here forever, stuck behind my laziness.
You don’t need to flip it over but I would recommend slightly bending the table. I used a zip tie to go route from top to the bottom of the table. You may want to use a fish tape if you have it.
You don’t need to flip it over but I would recommend slightly bending the table. I used a zip tie to go route from top to the bottom of the table. You may want to use a fish tape if you have it.
Now I remember correctly, put it on the side and slightly bend, that was the easiest way for me to get it in.
Big shout out to @greedyintern (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/17235/) , just did the LED mod. I used a different brand but it was a COB LED.
The hardest part for me was routing the LED from the top of the table to the bottom. Instead of a dimmer, I installed a zigbee controller and I got a rechargeable wireless battery to power them. Now I can control the LEDs from my phone thru HomeKit.
I also installed the handles. Going to attempt the cupholder mod next.
Did you do your modification on a non-LED or LED Barrington?
I am trying to decide which one to purchase. From what I read in this thread the LED version is 15-20lbs heavier, which I am not to keen on, and it would be nice to know that if I wanted to add the lights later it would work.
Did you do your modification on a non-LED or LED Barrington?
I am trying to decide which one to purchase. From what I read in this thread the LED version is 15-20lbs heavier, which I am not to keen on, and it would be nice to know that if I wanted to add the lights later it would work.
I did it on the LED version. The LED version has like a half an inch section made for the led. Rather than use the supplied one, I got the aftermarket led from Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/?tag=amznpcfx-20) and laid it over.
Hello, is it possible to replace the vinyl on a Barrington table? #firstpost
Hello, is it possible to replace the vinyl on a Barrington table? #firstpost
There's this post from earlier in this very thread:
https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/barrington-poker-table-thread.30910/post-1946543
Or this:
https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/barrington-poker-table-thread.30910/post-2085850
Or this:
https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/barrington-poker-table-thread.30910/post-2232398
this:
https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/barrington-poker-table-thread.30910/post-2309092
Just picked this up for $150 from Facebook marketplace. I think I'm going to attempt to install the larger cup holders.
It's worth it!
Just picked this up for $150 from Facebook marketplace. I think I'm going to attempt to install the larger cup holders.
View attachment 1381377 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1381377/)
There was a practically new one on offer up near me for $70 recently. I was too slow!
There was a practically new one on offer up near me for $70 recently. I was too slow!
Yeah this one posted this morning and I jumped on it. I've been keeping an eye out for one and I'm happy I got this one on great condition
Would taking a hair dryer to the vinyl at the same time help get those wrinkles out? (It is vinyl isn't it?)
Would taking a hair dryer to the vinyl at the same time help get those wrinkles out? (It is vinyl isn't it?)
I just tried that and it worked. I don't feel like spending the time getting all the wrinkles out right now though haha. Thanks for the tip!
I just tried that and it worked. I don't feel like spending the time getting all the wrinkles out right now though haha. Thanks for the tip!
Cool, just err on the side of caution and be gentle with the heat.
Costco has the LED version for $229 right now (with the blackjack layout?). Seems like a pretty solid deal, especially with a few upgrades
Very interesting... It's advertised as a poker table but it looks like the blackjack is an inlay? Based on the image on the box? Looks like a very decent deal.
Costco has the LED version for $229 right now (with the blackjack layout?). Seems like a pretty solid deal, especially with a few upgrades
View attachment 1386638 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1386638/)
It looks like it has a topper on it. If you look at the picture on the box, it looks like it may have at least one topper it comes with. Plus the lights are not blue!!! This looks like a great deal with the upgrades!
Hmm, I don't see it on the web site
Looks like it may even be 2 toppers.
Yeah, looks like a gray and black poker base, black and red blackjack overlay, and then not sure what the last red overlay is (it's also folded up in a bag on the table)
I think the lights may be color changing as well.
Checked my local Costco for it today after I saw this post. They aren't carrying it. If anyone in the Houston area sees it please let me know which location. Sugar Land does not have it. Hopefully the deal spreads from California to Texas, I'd pick it up even though I was leaning towards a round table.
Checked my local Costco for it today after I saw this post. They aren't carrying it. If anyone in the Houston area sees it please let me know which location. Sugar Land does not have it. Hopefully the deal spreads from California to Texas, I'd pick it up even though I was leaning towards a round table.
Did you try online?
Did you try online?
I can't seem to find it anywhere online even with the product number
View this content on Instagram (https://www.instagram.com/p/C_zARSrtMLL/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading)View this content on Instagram (https://www.instagram.com/p/C_zARSrtMLL/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading)
He doesn't show the other toppers but here is a short video of the new Costco Barrington table
View this content on Instagram (https://www.instagram.com/p/C_zARSrtMLL/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading)View this content on Instagram (https://www.instagram.com/p/C_zARSrtMLL/?utm_source=ig_embed&utm_campaign=loading)
He doesn't show the other toppers but here is a short video of the new Costco Barrington table
Looks like it has wider but not deeper cupholders no?
Looks like it has wider but not deeper cupholders no?
It's hard to tell but I think they look like the smaller size. I would be surprised if they made them bigger but that would be nice
Called my Costco here outside Milwaukee. They have 15 of them right now. I'm going to go check it out later today and I can send some photos.
smart move. just called another store and they didnt have it in stock but staff was kind enough to look into it further (as its a new SKU) and told me that Austin and Dallas stores are carrying it so probably only a matter of time til its in Houston inventories.
Called my Costco here outside Milwaukee. They have 15 of them right now. I'm going to go check it out later today and I can send some photos.
That’s a nice deal!
Those look like the same size as the old Barrington 6 player 3in1 tables except with lights. Wish my Cotsco had some of these.
I want to buy this one for the bag alone
I want to buy this one for the bag alone
This bag will fit the LED or standard version of Barrington tables. Decent price as well. I have 3 of them.
Hengme Folding Table Storage Bag, Portable Carry Bag for Folding Picnic Tables Storage or Carry 600D Waterproof Large Moving Bags Protective Covers https://a.co/d/bw4GrbA (https://a.co/d/bw4GrbA?tag=amznpcfx-20)
43.3 x 43.3 x 7.9
I wonder if you can change the LED color. That first post shows them in red, but the following photos (and other similar Barrington tables) are all blue LEDs.
I wonder if you can change the LED color. That first post shows them in red, but the following photos (and other similar Barrington tables) are all blue LEDs.
Take a look at my full album. It has a button on the side that I press to cycle through the colors.
Take a look at my full album. It has a button on the side that I press to cycle through the colors.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/qxarNidBLc7JKxEV6
D’oh! Thanks for that.
Damn, what a great feature.
I was at Costco today and my wife said “no!”
I was at Costco today and my wife said “no!”
Same here
I hope mine doesn’t notice it in the kart :)
Here is the item number, if anyone wants to do a stock check: 1740653
Here are the different LED colors it can do. It can also do white, but I guess the picture I took didn't save
tried searching it online and can't find it. anyone wanna post a link?
tried searching it online and can't find it. anyone wanna post a link?
I couldn't find it either, but the prices online are always way higher. Call your local warehouse and tell them to do a stock check. The item # is 1740653
Costco in Richmond off Central ave has a few in stock when I stopped by today. I already have one from the last sale and I opt for the non-LED version so no need to give the wife any puppy eyes this time.
Has anyone seen these at a Costco outside of California or Texas?
Has anyone seen these at a Costco outside of California or Texas?
Call the item number into your local warehouse. They can tell you if anyone in your region stocks it
Just finished upgrading the cupholders. I need to fix some of the wrinkles around the cupholders but I'll do that later this week.
Checked my local Costco for it today after I saw this post. They aren't carrying it. If anyone in the Houston area sees it please let me know which location. Sugar Land does not have it. Hopefully the deal spreads from California to Texas, I'd pick it up even though I was leaning towards a round table.
It was in Costco Burbank today
It was in Costco Burbank today
I'm im Houston but stores in my area should be stocked this week if anyone wants to know. They said the regional depot had them on order last time I called.
Are these the full-sized tables or is there a larger Barrington model?
Well I called the closest one to me which was in Mobile, Al. Don't have it and said she does not ser where it's on order for any store in the region... :cry:
Called my local Costco and they said likely at the end of the month.
Pics in Burbank
Are these the full-sized tables or is there a larger Barrington model?
This is an 8 seater. I believe they have a 10 seater table. According to amazon (https://www.amazon.com/?tag=amznpcfx-20), the difference in length is 71" vs 84".
EDIT: I can't count, the Costco table is a 10-seater.
This is an 8 seater. I believe they have a 10 seater table. According to amazon, the difference in length is 71" vs 84".
There are 10 cup-holders and the box in one of the pictures posted earlier says it's 84".
There are 10 cup-holders and the box in one of the pictures posted earlier says it's 84".
My mistake! So this is why I consistently lose at Blackjack...
Someone's trying to make soke money off the new costco barrington table lol
No Barrington tables at 2 Costcos in Suffolk County, NY
But I got rotisserie chickens and a frozen yogurt, so I got that going for me.
Someone's trying to make soke money off the new costco barrington table lolView attachment 1389700 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1389700/)
Lists for $800, will take $400.
Lists for $800, will take $400.
I can do this all day
My Costco in Huntington Beach, CA had a bunch of them available as of this past Sunday. My wife definitely judged me when I pointed out the table and the good deal :ROFL: :ROFLMAO:
How does this Costco table compare to the Walmart tables? I see the multi-color LED w/button, multiple felt choices and carry bag which are all nice. Are they the same size? Dimensions and weight??
How does this Costco table compare to the Walmart tables? I see the multi-color LED w/button, multiple felt choices and carry bag which are all nice. Are they the same size? Dimensions and weight??
71x32 (29" high) - 60 pounds. Good for 6, ok for 8, tight for 9, no good for 10 players.
71x32 (29" high) - 60 pounds. Good for 6, ok for 8, tight for 9, no good for 10 players.
Ok, so a bit smaller/lighter. Thank you for the reply.
There are 10 cup-holders and the box in one of the pictures posted earlier says it's 84".
The ones at Costco are the smaller version as far as I can tell. You’re not getting 10 players around it. Good news is, they have a display model that you can check out for yourself if you need to. It’s not available on their website.
The ones at Costco are the smaller version as far as I can tell. You’re not getting 10 players around it. Good news is, they have a display model that you can check out for yourself if you need to. It’s not available on their website.
Look at this album posted earlier:
Take a look at my full album. It has a button on the side that I press to cycle through the colors.
https://photos.app.goo.gl/qxarNidBLc7JKxEV6
It shows the box which states the dimensions are 84x42x30 same as This Barrington Charleston at Walmart (https://www.walmart.com/ip/Barrington-Premium-Charleston-10-Player-Brown-Poker-Table-No-Assembly-Required/681825460?adsRedirect=true)
Cropped pic from @greedyintern (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/17235/) 's album.
Yeah, it's the same size as the others. I prefer playing 8 comfortably - could do 10 but it's very tight.
Just finished upgrading the cupholders. I need to fix some of the wrinkles around the cupholders but I'll do that later this week.
View attachment 1388803 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1388803/)
Looks nice!
How hard was it to replace the cup holders? What did you have to do?
Looks nice!
How hard was it to replace the cup holders? What did you have to do?
I followed the instructions on this thread and it wasn't that bad. I removed the cup holders with a heat gun then drilled a hole in the middle of the cup holder so I knew where to drill the hole from the bottom. The challenging part I didn't realize I would have to do is cut the metal support beam on the bottom to be able to fit four of the cup holders. Took me a couple hours and cost about $50 bucks. Definitely worth it
Looks nice!
How hard was it to replace the cup holders? What did you have to do?
It’s not too hard as long as you have the right tools and use the guides on this thread. I was scared that I might ruin the table but it came out perfectly fine. You may need to trim the poles underneath but it’s easy to undo the screws and use a pipe cutter.
Y'all have been helpful in providing some info for the table so I registered just to give some insights back.
First, Houston Sugar Land Costco has the tables in stock as of yesterday (Saturday). Must've had 10+. LEDs, different tops, and carrying case are allc nice luxury. Even has physical button on the side for the lights.
Second, I have the ESPN table and currently in the process of upgrading to COB LEDs with dimmer/USB for power, bigger cupholders, new speedcloth and vinyl material.
So with any tables with LEDs, there is a 1/4" of particle board that sits between the table and the padded armrest--its where you attach the LED strip on the inside edge. Be careful when drilling using the 3 5/8" holesaw as it will provide a tight clearance for that sandwiched particle board. Worst case, you drill too far into the inside and the LED strip will have no backing to attach to.
The only Barrington I’ve seen is at a local BJ’s. Small, 4-person table with cards and 100 dice chips. Definitely not the quality of the other Barringtons and was quite small.
I live in Huntington Beach, and they have the ten-seater in stock, so if anyone out of state wants it, I can accommodate for a price :P
The only Barrington I’ve seen is at a local BJ’s. Small, 4-person table with cards and 100 dice chips. Definitely not the quality of the other Barringtons and was quite small.
Who doesn't love a good old, four person BJ table?
Okay just recently picked up the Costco setup. In the process of getting a topper so made some measurements if anyone is curious and wanted closeups of the thickness of the topper that comes with the table.
I have 74 1/4" x 32 1/4" from LED to LED and the topper that comes with it is 74" x 32".
This is my first poker table and I've never sat down in a casino poker room or card house yet, but color me impressed for $230. I suspect it would last a few years for monthly games and close to a good year for weekly games before the railing starts to tear up.
Y'all have been helpful in providing some info for the table so I registered just to give some insights back.
First, Houston Sugar Land Costco has the tables in stock as of yesterday (Saturday). Must've had 10+. LEDs, different tops, and carrying case are allc nice luxury. Even has physical button on the side for the lights.
Second, I have the ESPN table and currently in the process of upgrading to COB LEDs with dimmer/USB for power, bigger cupholders, new speedcloth and vinyl material.
So with any tables with LEDs, there is a 1/4" of particle board that sits between the table and the padded armrest--its where you attach the LED strip on the inside edge. Be careful when drilling using the 3 5/8" holesaw as it will provide a tight clearance for that sandwiched particle board. Worst case, you drill too far into the inside and the LED strip will have no backing to attach to.
Interested in seeing the process if you're able to document with pictures. My biggest peeve is the LED's. Just recently discovered the new COB strips and thats first for sure.
I was at Costco today and my wife said “no!”
After a few investigatory visits, and major wife convincing that it's both my wedding anniversary gift and my Christmas gift :ROFL: :ROFLMAO:, I pulled the trigger today and bought it here in Huntington Beach, CAI And I am glad I got it not a moment later, because they have been selling out fast, and I took the second to last one! The box is really big and heavy. I will attempt to have self control and not open it until Christmas day and not use it until after! And it will be perfect timing for when my other part of the Christmas gift (my first ever Mirage Tina (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/glossary/terms/tina.206) web mold hybrid ceramics set from Justin at Broken Arrow) arrives in December after this October group buy! :ROFL: :ROFLMAO: God bless Costco. I still use my original poker set I purchased from there nearly 20 years ago, which is honestly much better quality than regular dice chips. At my last poker game I told my buddies I was about to pull the trigger on a $400 set from China and they thought I was a bit crazy, and thought mine was sufficient. lol. They definitely got me thinking though and debating, poker table or new chips, or both?!?! hmmm. :unsure: BOTH! :rolleyes::ROFL: :ROFLMAO:
Interested in seeing the process if you're able to document with pictures. My biggest peeve is the LED's. Just recently discovered the new COB strips and thats first for sure.
Yup, COB LEDs are soooo much better :)
So I'm almost complete but unfornately didn't take pics of all the steps..
But here's the final almost complete project.
I'm able to get a USB adapter for rhe LEDs so I can use a battery brick to power them. Just make sure your brixk can output at 12v
Also showing CO lights on vs off. The lights makes a difference
Lmk if y'all have questions.
So I'm almost complete but unfornately didn't take pics of all the steps..
But here's the final almost complete project.
I'm able to get a USB adapter for rhe LEDs so I can use a battery brick to power them. Just make sure your brixk can output at 12v
Also showing CO lights on vs off. The lights makes a difference
Lmk if y'all have questions.
Do you have links to the lights, connectors, etc?
Do you have links to the lights, connectors, etc?
So here's all the stuff I've used..
Speed cloth - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D7742FQ/ (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D7742FQ/?tag=amznpcfx-20) would not recommend. They shipped folded and I cant get the crease out.
Bag - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B58T54FB/ (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B58T54FB/?tag=amznpcfx-20)
Bigger Cupholders - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075R76RRR/ (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075R76RRR/?tag=amznpcfx-20)
COB LEDs 3000k color - https://www.ebay.com/itm/126486118463?var=427524025167
Dimmer - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BZ8MVB5S/ (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BZ8MVB5S/?tag=amznpcfx-20)
LED DC to USB-C Adapter "B 12v/DC 5521"- https://www.ebay.com/itm/315290468508?var=613760507050
I already have a USB Battery Brick that outputs 12v.
So here's all the stuff I've used..
Speed cloth - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D7742FQ/ (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07D7742FQ/?tag=amznpcfx-20) would not recommend. They shipped folded and I cant get the crease out.
Bag - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B58T54FB/ (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B58T54FB/?tag=amznpcfx-20)
Bigger Cupholders - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075R76RRR/ (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075R76RRR/?tag=amznpcfx-20)
COB LEDs 3000k color - https://www.ebay.com/itm/126486118463?var=427524025167
Dimmer - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BZ8MVB5S/ (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0BZ8MVB5S/?tag=amznpcfx-20)
LED DC to USB-C Adapter "B 12v/DC 5521"- https://www.ebay.com/itm/315290468508?var=613760507050
I already have a USB Battery Brick that outputs 12v.
You cut the LED strip in two, correct? Which connectors did you use for this?
You cut the LED strip in two, correct? Which connectors did you use for this?
Yup. I cut it right in middle. The LED strip has pigtail on both ends. So all I had to do was strip the wires and connect to existing cord.
The ESPN table has a RJ11 cord with 4 strands. 2 each for positive and negative.
Anyone have any tips on how to safely remove the cup holders? The newer tables seem to be harder to remove them on.
Anyone have any tips on how to safely remove the cup holders? The newer tables seem to be harder to remove them on.
I recall it was suggested to use a heat gun or hair dryer to soften the adhesive.
This might be a stupid question, so please excuse me if it is, since I am new here to the forum and to the poker accessories and paraphernalia addiction...But what is wrong with some of the these new poker tables such as the new Costco Barrington one, right out of the box? Is it just the people want to soup up their tables and make them more comfortable and swankier, or is it un-usable as is, or am I missing something? :unsure::ROFL: :ROFLMAO:
This might be a stupid question, so please excuse me if it is, since I am new here to the forum and to the poker accessories and paraphernalia addiction...But what is wrong with some of the these new poker tables such as the new Costco Barrington one, right out of the box? Is it just the people want to soup up their tables and make them more comfortable and swankier, or is it un-usable as is, or am I missing something? :unsure::ROFL: :ROFLMAO:
OEM cup holders are too shallow (spilled drinks)
OEM lights are a bit bright for some so they either add a dimmer or add different led lights.
This might be a stupid question, so please excuse me if it is, since I am new here to the forum and to the poker accessories and paraphernalia addiction...But what is wrong with some of the these new poker tables such as the new Costco Barrington one, right out of the box? Is it just the people want to soup up their tables and make them more comfortable and swankier, or is it un-usable as is, or am I missing something? :unsure::ROFL: :ROFLMAO:
I think the biggest upgrade for quality of life is the cupholders. The stock cupholders will only fit cans and they are super shallow. $50 bucks and a couple hours at most gives you cupholders that will fit whiskey glass or really any cups and cut back on drinks getting knocked over
I think the biggest upgrade for quality of life is the cupholders. The stock cupholders will only fit cans and they are super shallow. $50 bucks and a couple hours at most gives you cupholders that will fit whiskey glass or really any cups and cut back on drinks getting knocked over
but it sounds like you risk damaging the felt, or the rail padding, or the LED lights, no? It just looks like a lot of risk for maybe marginal reward, lol, but I guess each person has to make that judgment call on their own if it is worth it or not. thanks!
but it sounds like you risk damaging the felt, or the rail padding, or the LED lights, no? It just looks like a lot of risk for maybe marginal reward, lol, but I guess each person has to make that judgment call on their own if it is worth it or not. thanks!
Eh, risk of damage is low and risk of spilled drink is very very high every time you host. You can call it marginal reward, sure, but I like my players to be comfortable and these instructions were helpful.
but it sounds like you risk damaging the felt, or the rail padding, or the LED lights, no? It just looks like a lot of risk for maybe marginal reward, lol, but I guess each person has to make that judgment call on their own if it is worth it or not. thanks!
I don't have the table with led lights so I don't have to worry about that. If you have a topper you don't have to worry about damaging the felt as much either.
This thread has so much information it makes the upgrade incredibly easy. I didn't even try that hard and I didn't make any mistakes
Eh, risk of damage is low and risk of spilled drink is very very high every time you host. You can call it marginal reward, sure, but I like my players to be comfortable and these instructions were helpful.
alright, that's fair, I do want to protect my new table and purchase! I will check out the instructions! thank you!
I don't have the table with led lights so I don't have to worry about that. If you have a topper you don't have to worry about damaging the felt as much either.
This thread has so much information it makes the upgrade incredibly easy. I didn't even try that hard and I didn't make any mistakes
thank you! I will have to find the starting point of the upgrade instructions in this massive thread! :P
This might be a stupid question, so please excuse me if it is, since I am new here to the forum and to the poker accessories and paraphernalia addiction...But what is wrong with some of the these new poker tables such as the new Costco Barrington one, right out of the box? Is it just the people want to soup up their tables and make them more comfortable and swankier, or is it un-usable as is, or am I missing something? :unsure::ROFL: :ROFLMAO:
Nothing wrong with using the table right out the box. You could buy side tables instead of drilling into the table to make cup holders but that can get expensive. My group likes to drink and so we have 2-3 spills everytime we play. After I’ve upgraded the cup holders I haven’t had a spill yet. Some groups are more careful and upgrading the table wouldn’t be necessary. It’s up to you if the upgrading the table is necessary.
Nothing wrong with using the table right out the box. You could buy side tables instead of drilling into the table to make cup holders but that can get expensive. My group likes to drink and so we have 2-3 spills everytime we play. After I’ve upgraded the cup holders I haven’t had a spill yet. Some groups are more careful and upgrading the table wouldn’t be necessary. It’s up to you if the upgrading the table is necessary.
Can't trust my apes with anything nice, the cupholders have been great for us.
I think the biggest upgrade for quality of life is the cupholders. The stock cupholders will only fit cans and they are super shallow. $50 bucks and a couple hours at most gives you cupholders that will fit whiskey glass or really any cups and cut back on drinks getting knocked over
Another less talked about advantage of the bigger cupholders... normal phone can fit in it! Unless you're rocking the Nokia 6100, you wont fit any phone in the original cupholders.
Another less talked about advantage of the bigger cupholders... normal phone can fit in it! Unless you're rocking the Nokia 6100, you wont fit any phone in the original cupholders.
Good point!
The new Costco Barrington has hit the home game
Christened with a very ridiculous Straight Flush in a baby pot
If anyone around Indianapolis is looking for the Costco Barrington, they have a lot of stock at the Michigan Rd location as of this morning.
Now available at Costco online for a lot more
https://www.costco.com/barrington-10-player-poker-table-with-led-lights.product.4000292881.html
it is in lay topper for black jack topper.
$229 at store locally
$329 online.
Way better deal to get locally.
Anybody know if what kind of battery pack we can buy to Velcro under the table instead of using a ac-dc adapter to plug in wall?
This is the one i got, works perfect since i upgraded the lights
it is in lay topper for black jack topper.
$229 at store locally
$329 online.
Way better deal to get locally.
Anybody know if what kind of battery pack we can buy to Velcro under the table instead of using a ac-dc adapter to plug in wall?
An inexpensive battery option is a AA battery holder. A 2-pack is less than $9.
https://a.co/d/gSy7rVx (https://a.co/d/gSy7rVx?tag=amznpcfx-20)
CostCo near Perimeter Mall in Atlanta had 6 tables this weekend. $229. I snagged the last one today. They said they are getting a few more in a day or two. They are selling fast but arriving at CostCo locations near Atlanta. I planned this out. I called two weeks ago and gave them the item number. They estimated they would get them on today's date but they arrived a couple days early... If you want one call your local CostCo and ask if they have item #1740653. If they say no ask if they are expecting any.... Thanks to everyone on the thread for giving me the heads up. I joined the forum because of you guys
I just wish the costco ones came with improved cupholders, then it would be ready to go off the shelf. Good news is i won't have to buy another thanks to that.
My wife approved this capital expense! She was not too happy about strapping it to her roof rack on the drive home, after finding it would not fit in her car!
I bought a Barrington poker table at Costco in Burbank, California.
I checked aliexpress as they're made in China and I found two vendors. They're sold for a mere $689 and $732 with only $572 and $865 in shipping to Norway. So for ~$1600 I can get a Barrington table here in Norway!
Has anyone removed the legs and found a way to use it as a topper?
Do you guys see the Jurassic Park Pinball Home Edition at Costco?
5 Grand!
https://www.costco.com/stern-pinball-jurassic-park-home-edition.product.4000272133.html
Do you guys see the Jurassic Park Pinball Home Edition at Costco?
5 Grand!
https://www.costco.com/stern-pinball-jurassic-park-home-edition.product.4000272133.html
Wow, for that kind of money, I'd get a used Williams or Bally machine.
Always preferred Bally over Williams back in the day. I could control the Bally's flippers a lot better.
Eight Ball Deluxe is the best pinball machine ever made. I could play all day on a quarter winning free games to max out at 10. No one else could get in to play so I'd sell my credits. I'd also make bets on who would win a game. Easy money.
Stop talking and start chalking.
Always preferred Bally over Williams back in the day. I could control the Bally's flippers a lot better.
Eight Ball Deluxe is the best pinball machine ever made. I could play all day on a quarter winning free games to max out at 10. No one else could get in to play so I'd sell my credits. I'd also make bets on who would win a game. Easy money.
Bally were more classic old-school machines, and the Williams seemed to be more modern (and I always love the center pin in Williams).
Captain Fantastic is a favorite Bally machine, but Gorgar by Williams is my all-time favorite.
I like the old-school machines better like I like old-school chips. Bally's flippers were weighted. The center pin on Williams is cool too.
The newer machines became just too busy for me and more gimmicky with too many multi-balls. I liked Gorgar. The machine I played at Space Odyssey arcade had a bug. Some quarters would go in and get stuck in the side of the coin return. We'd go in and rake out several dollars at a time. I got banned once for it sort of.
My top 4 in order: Eight Ball Deluxe, Xenon (favorite multi-ball), Skateball, Kiss (original). I would love to play The Rolling Stones and Rush machines just for the music.
Sorry, thread is getting derailed. Back to Barrington. Barrington 14.5" Tabletop Pinball Game w/ Metal Balls (https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fitm%2F115130744457&psig=AOvVaw0fo18cSVtLB9Jo9C6VjdH2&ust=1728882060695000&source=images&cd=vfe&opi=89978449&ved=0CBQQjhxqFwoTCPD9hLXKiokDFQAAAAAdAAAAABAE) (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/barrington-poker-table-thread.30910/#-sorry-thread-is-getting-derailed-back-to-barrington-barrington-14-5-tabletop-pinball-game-w-metal-balls)
Just got my table setup from Walmart from the last sale. Much heavier than I anticipated (which is good) and seems like it will hold up to the limited use it will see from my game. Learned a lot from this thread and looking to upgrade the cupholders soon.
I was at Costco today and my wife said “no!”
I was at Costco today and my wife said “you should get one. You couldn’t build another that cheap could you?”
I need to go get it before she changes her mind.
Well.
Pleasantly surprised these are in the UK. Was in the market for a table, and got one of the led ones delivered. Don’t think there’s any other choice of table.
So much better than most of the crud on eBay (https://www.ebay.com/?mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&siteid=0&campid=5338995683&customid=&toolid=10001&mkevt=1), even allowing for the aspects with room for improvement -
Cup holders (why put in such narrow and shallow ones at all?)
LED brightness/wire
slightly different heights of playing surface at the fold.
Thanks to this thread if I choose too I can address most of the above, easily and cheaply.
Now to get a custom cloth…
Seems like 1 left in Foster City, CA. It took a lot of self control not to buy it. That and visions of an unhappy wife reminding me we have no room for it.
Walmart has both the LED and standard Barringtons for $250/$199 respectively right now with free shipping.
That said, are they the same except the lighting?
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Barringt...7?classType=REGULAR&athbdg=L1200&from=/search (https://www.walmart.com/ip/Barrington-10-Player-Poker-Table-No-Assembly-Required/55465427?classType=REGULAR&athbdg=L1200&from=/search)
The LED version has slightly thicker wood and weighs 11.5lbs more
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Barringt...3?classType=REGULAR&athbdg=L1700&from=/search (https://www.walmart.com/ip/Barrington-10-Player-Poker-Table-with-In-laid-LED-Lights-Brown-and-Black/3963393753?classType=REGULAR&athbdg=L1700&from=/search)
Packaging weight (approximately): 100.31 lbs
https://www.walmart.com/ip/Barringt...7?classType=REGULAR&athbdg=L1700&from=/search (https://www.walmart.com/ip/Barrington-10-Player-Poker-Table-No-Assembly-Required/55465427?classType=REGULAR&athbdg=L1700&from=/search)
Weight (approx.): 82 lbs
I'm still suspecting that 18 lbs more is not slightly thicker plywood and the difference is mdf was used with the LED version. Prove me wrong.
I looked up the specs on Barringtons website and that's what I found. I don't have one and don't really care WHAT makes it heavier.
Saturday morning cupholder upgrade assembly line with @sethwanab (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/13582/)
Three tables upgraded in just over 90 min start to finish.
I can confirm the new Barringtons vs the older blue top have thicker Plywood and a thicker more rounded cushion surface. The cupholder upgrade is a MUST.
I can confirm the new Barringtons vs the older blue top have thicker Plywood and a thicker more rounded cushion surface. The cupholder upgrade is a MUST.
Is the upgrade just simply pulling out the plastic ones and dropping in the deeper ones? Or do you need to hole saw out the bottom?
I bought a Barrington poker table at Costco in Burbank, California.
View attachment 1401304 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1401304/)
Have you been back to this location recently and seen them still in stock?
Thanks!
Hole saw is required. Detailed instructions are earlier in this thread:
https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/barrington-poker-table-thread.30910/post-2405037
Have you been back to this location recently and seen them still in stock?
Thanks!
I was at this location last week and they still had them in stock.
I was at this location last week and they still had them in stock.
Bless you.
When using a custom topper, does one simply place it on the unfolded table for poker sessions and roll up the topper for storage when not in use? It is secure enough during play in this manner?
When using a custom topper, does one simply place it on the unfolded table for poker sessions and roll up the topper for storage when not in use? It is secure enough during play in this manner?
Yup. I haven't had any issues with it moving around too much
It looks like your cupholders came out very clean vs some I've seen did you just use a heat gun on the inside of the cupholders also?
It looks like your cupholders came out very clean vs some I've seen did you just use a heat gun on the inside of the cupholders also?
Used a hair dryer and the trim remove tool. I heated the cups until I was able to pry them loose with the tool. Then I let them cool before I removed them. This way the glue doesn’t string all over the table.
The new Costco Barrington has hit the home game
View attachment 1395030 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1395030/)
Christened with a very ridiculous Straight Flush in a baby pot
View attachment 1395031 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1395031/)
Is that the middle of the costco barrington table? is it not level or is the picture playing tricks on me
walmart barrington is 179
walmart barrington led is 199
costco barrington led is 229
looking for a second table, which is the one to get? leaning towards the cheapest one and using money saved to upgrade the cupholders. are the LED's a much added benefit to game play? feel like i'd tilt myself looking directly into the light.. or is the weight of the table better?
walmart barrington is 179
walmart barrington led is 199
costco barrington led is 229
looking for a second table, which is the one to get? leaning towards the cheapest one and using money saved to upgrade the cupholders. are the LED's a much added benefit to game play? feel like i'd tilt myself looking directly into the light.. or is the weight of the table better?
I got the Walmart barrington and love it for the price. My thought process was for ~$20 extra bucks, whynot have the LED’s as an option. I will say I’ve been trying to find an rgb cob light replacement for them ever since and can’t seem to figure it all out, which has been a bummer. I don’t know if I would have regretted getting the lesser for such little money saved, but I didn’t want to regret it.
Well.
Pleasantly surprised these are in the UK. Was in the market for a table, and got one of the led ones delivered. Don’t think there’s any other choice of table.
So much better than most of the crud on eBay, even allowing for the aspects with room for improvement -
Cup holders (why put in such narrow and shallow ones at all?)
LED brightness/wire
slightly different heights of playing surface at the fold.
Thanks to this thread if I choose too I can address most of the above, easily and cheaply.
Now to get a custom cloth…
i saw the different height on the surface at the fold in someone elses picture. can you share a picture? wonder why it is that way for the costco one, the walmart barringtons are good at the fold. debating the costco one but this may tilt me
i saw the different height on the surface at the fold in someone elses picture. can you share a picture? wonder why it is that way for the costco one, the walmart barringtons are good at the fold. debating the costco one but this may tilt me
I don't know exactly what you mean but the bottom of the table has wires that can be adjusted to change the height of the table and how it sits. My table doesn't have an discernible height difference at the middle, but I also use a topper to lay over it anyways.
I don't know exactly what you mean but the bottom of the table has wires that can be adjusted to change the height of the table and how it sits. My table doesn't have an discernible height difference at the middle, but I also use a topper to lay over it anyways.
it looks really raised at the fold here in this picture and someone else said different heights of playing at the fold. true i guess a custom topper over it would be fine? just if you use the costco hold em it looks like a considerable height difference where dealing across may hit a snag? don't have that level of difference with the walmart barrington from my experience so was just curious peoples experience with the costco one thus far
Is that the middle of the costco barrington table? is it not level or is the picture playing tricks on me
It’s a folding table, so there is technically the crease in the middle of the table if you don’t have a topper on it. But it never once caused a problem catch a card or chip.
What’s up guys! I’m looking into buying the brown barrington table on sale from Walmart to use as a dining room table top. Has anyone had experience taking off the legs and using it for this purpose?
What’s up guys! I’m looking into buying the brown barrington table on sale from Walmart to use as a dining room table top. Has anyone had experience taking off the legs and using it for this purpose?
I’m interested in this as well. This is my plan with the Costco one.
I think the rail would sit a little too high on top of the table and be annoying.
I think the rail would sit a little too high on top of the table and be annoying.
Over a kitchen table I could see that being an issue.
I plan on putting it over a table that is 32” x 64”, so the table should nest inside the table top pretty well.
Over a kitchen table I could see that being an issue.
I plan on putting it over a table that is 32” x 64”, so the table should nest inside the table top pretty well.
keep us posted we’d like to see it.
Over a kitchen table I could see that being an issue.
I plan on putting it over a table that is 32” x 64”, so the table should nest inside the table top pretty well.
You’ll still have a center support that is almost the height of the edges:
I guess you could put some small blocks under the table at each end so the table stays level, but the final height of the playing surface will still be a couple inches higher than the dining table. If that’s ok, it could work.
The other thing you’ll need to think about is that since so little of the Barrington table will be touching the dining table, it may slide around very easily…and be trouble when someone leans in to scoop a pot or bumps it when getting up.
You’ll still have a center support that is almost the height of the edges:
View attachment 1419785 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1419785/)View attachment 1419786 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1419786/)
I guess you could put some small blocks under the table at each end so the table stays level, but the final height of the playing surface will still be a couple inches higher than the dining table. If that’s ok, it could work.
The other thing you’ll need to think about is that since so little of the Barrington table will be touching the dining table, it may slide around very easily…and be trouble when someone leans in to scoop a pot or bumps it when getting up.
Hmmm … interesting.
Technically my tables are 32x32 and I was going to join two for the 64x32 I mentioned. Perhaps I can keep them separate and nest them individually.
You’ll still have a center support that is almost the height of the edges:
View attachment 1419785 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1419785/)View attachment 1419786 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1419786/)
I guess you could put some small blocks under the table at each end so the table stays level, but the final height of the playing surface will still be a couple inches higher than the dining table. If that’s ok, it could work.
The other thing you’ll need to think about is that since so little of the Barrington table will be touching the dining table, it may slide around very easily…and be trouble when someone leans in to scoop a pot or bumps it when getting up.
Hmm super helpful to see the underside of the table, glad you have pictures. It looks like this probably won’t fit right on my table
Hmm super helpful to see the underside of the table, glad you have pictures. It looks like this probably won’t fit right on my table
I grabbed the pics from other posts earlier in this thead. :ROFL: :ROFLMAO:
Apologies to those that I did not give photo credit.
For anyone in WNY, they restocked today at Costco in Rochester.
For anyone in WNY, they restocked today at Costco in Rochester.
Dang!
I am hoping for a Death Star soon, this indicates that isn’t likely.
i saw the different height on the surface at the fold in someone elses picture. can you share a picture? wonder why it is that way for the costco one, the walmart barringtons are good at the fold. debating the costco one but this may tilt me
This is the best I’ve got. If you look back a couple of posts at the photo from underneath, on my table too much material has been removed in the recess on one side where the hinge is. I’m going to remove it and put in a spacer to level it all up.
This is the best I’ve got. If you look back a couple of posts at the photo from underneath, on my table too much material has been removed in the recess on one side where the hinge is. I’m going to remove it and put in a spacer to level it all up.
View attachment 1420537 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1420537/)
This looks really minor but a 1-2mm difference in height if you’re sliding a card at it is really noticeable!
Finally got to doing the light thing, messed it up a bit but works fine :)
Thank you all for all the advice in this thread!
Costco has the LED version for $229 right now (with the blackjack layout?). Seems like a pretty solid deal, especially with a few upgrades
View attachment 1386638 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1386638/)
Wait!! Costco sells poker tables?
Saturday morning cupholder upgrade assembly line with @sethwanab (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/13582/)
Three tables upgraded in just over 90 min start to finish.View attachment 1409702 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1409702/)
Any particular brand of cupholders people use for the upgrade? Or specific store/website?
walmart barrington is 179
walmart barrington led is 199
costco barrington led is 229
looking for a second table, which is the one to get? leaning towards the cheapest one and using money saved to upgrade the cupholders. are the LED's a much added benefit to game play? feel like i'd tilt myself looking directly into the light.. or is the weight of the table better?
Oddly - the Walmart led jumped up to 299 while the non led is still at 179
Any particular brand of cupholders people use for the upgrade? Or specific store/website?
https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/barrington-cup-holder-upgrade.112566/post-2317867
https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/barrington-cup-holder-upgrade.112566/post-2317867
Thanks. I did notice that walmart sells a premium version and the description says it has deeper cup holders. I wonder how much better quality for the premium.
Thanks. I did notice that walmart sells a premium version and the description says it has deeper cup holders. I wonder how much better quality for the premium.
These tables are great and I like them, but I would not expect anything premium from Walmart or CostCo. I haven't found cupholders that I liked on these, my players prefer big ol rocks glasses that only fit in jumbo.
Okay just recently picked up the Costco setup. In the process of getting a topper so made some measurements if anyone is curious and wanted closeups of the thickness of the topper that comes with the table.
I have 74 1/4" x 32 1/4" from LED to LED and the topper that comes with it is 74" x 32".
This is my first poker table and I've never sat down in a casino poker room or card house yet, but color me impressed for $230. I suspect it would last a few years for monthly games and close to a good year for weekly games before the railing starts to tear up.
did you order 74x32 for your custom topper how'd it fit? did you do any upgrades to the costco one? cupholders? led dimmer?
So I finished my Barrington mods (for now) but still need to order a topper.
New LEDs, Dimmer, AA Battery Pack, and Jumbo Cupholders
COB LEDs
I wasn't the biggest fan of the blue LEDs and didn't like how they were so spaced out. I saw someone talk about the COB LEDs and how they are amost diffused already and ordered the warm white and couldn't be happier. The LEDs are very close together so you don't need to put something in front of them to diffuse them like I was trying to do with the old LEDs. Instead of ripping out the old LEDs, I actually just wedged the new LEDs right on top of the current ones. It worked out great.
I did have to cut the light strip and attach another tail end. Very easy to do but measure accurately before you cut! You don't have much leeway with the 16.4ft strip. And then used the Y connector that also came with the COB connector package.
Screwed and glued on some velcro, glued velcro to the battery pack, then buttoned up everything else. Happy with it.
COB LED Lights (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BVR755VK?tag=amznpcfx-20)
COB Connector Package (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C2CVFGL8?tag=amznpcfx-20)
Dimmer (https://www.amazon.com/weideer-Lights-Dimmer-DC12V-24V-K-018-BK/dp/B092HX9435?tag=amznpcfx-20)
Battery Pack (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09131Y9L8?tag=amznpcfx-20)
Jumbo Cupholders
I went with the jumbos after reading recommendations. Pried off the old ones with a vise grip, drilled a center hole down with a standard bit, then drilled from the bottom up with the 3 5/8in hole saw starting it the pre drilled hole. I got them all done but it was a bit of a struggle with the hole saw I bought. If I would do it again, I would get one that was deeper. This one barely made it through both pieces of wood.
Jumbo Cupholders (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0789HG6NW?tag=amznpcfx-20)
Hole Saw (buy a deeper one) (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0C6MN14B1?tag=amznpcfx-20)
View attachment 1252914 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1252914/)
Nicely done! I just picked up the Costco LED version and would like to add the COB lights on top, as you did. How did you manage to get the new LEDs to fish through the top of the table and down through the hole in the bottom? It’s pretty snug in there with the existing leds. Any tips would be appreciated.
Now that it’s been done for a while, anything you would have done differently?
Nicely done! I just picked up the Costco LED version and would like to add the COB lights on top, as you did. How did you manage to get the new LEDs to fish through the top of the table and down through the hole in the bottom? It’s pretty snug in there with the existing leds. Any tips would be appreciated.
Now that it’s been done for a while, anything you would have done differently?
Are the costco lights too bright?
In my opinion, and others on here, yes. I’d also prefer a continuous led rather than a little bead of light every inch or two.
In my opinion, and others on here, yes. I’d also prefer a continuous led rather than a little bead of light every inch or two.
i hadn't seen a verdict on the costco one was curious if it was pretty bright. i had seen it mentioned on the walmart led barrington. would a dimmer help with the costco one or is COB the way
I’m sure a dimmer would help and could be a good starting place, as it could be used even if eventually moving to COB. I’m assuming the Costco LEDs are the same as the Walmart tables.
Yea looks pretty bad. I was hoping I could buy a smaller, deeper cup holder to place/glue into the existing ones, but from the looks of it, if I did that, regular sized cans wouldn’t fit.
are there holders out there the same width lip to lip of the factory ones but as deep as the jumbos?
I’m sure a dimmer would help and could be a good starting place, as it could be used even if eventually moving to COB. I’m assuming the Costco LEDs are the same as the Walmart tables. View attachment 1425198 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1425198/)
those cupholders look better than the walmart ones.. are they deeper? black stainless steel?
those cupholders look better than the walmart ones.. are they deeper? black stainless steel?
Yes, black stainless steel, slightly deeper but same width so I’ll probably still upgrade.
Been Reading a lot of LED Barrington thread from few days now . Going to purchase two next week.
My question is for the people who are using the AA battery pack .
How long does the batteries last if you continuously leave it ON using 8AA.
i only host twice a year and if the batteries could last like 6-7 hours i don't want to spend the money on the powerbank.
And anyone who knows more about voltages/wattages.. i have 20000mah samsung power bank with 45W P.D. can that work if i buy the DC to USB-C adapter as one of the posters in the thread did.
https://www.samsung.com/ca/business/mobile-accessories/battery-pack-20ah-beige-eb-p4520xuegca/
in the output section of this it says Output Voltage: 3.3-20 V but i guess its auto, depending on the device.
Been Reading a lot of LED Barrington thread from few days now . Going to purchase two next week.
My question is for the people who are using the AA battery pack .
How long does the batteries last if you continuously leave it ON using 8AA.
i only host twice a year and if the batteries could last like 6-7 hours i don't want to spend the money on the powerbank.
And anyone who knows more about voltages/wattages.. i have 20000mah samsung power bank with 45W P.D. can that work if i buy the DC to USB-C adapter as one of the posters in the thread did.
https://www.samsung.com/ca/business/mobile-accessories/battery-pack-20ah-beige-eb-p4520xuegca/
in the output section of this it says Output Voltage: 3.3-20 V but i guess its auto, depending on the device.
Earlier in this thread:
Mine was at 7 hours and still going strong last session..now if I can just remember which pack I used, I'll be able to give you a number when those finally die. :LOL: :laugh:
I bought a two-pack of AA battery packs but I haven’t used them yet. I planned on filling both up to have ready, but if you can get 7+ hours from one, that would be awesome.
brought it home tonight
Manufacturer sale … nice!
View attachment 1427525 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1427525/)brought it home tonight
Just got mine a few weeks ago for $229.99. Bastards! :ROFL: :ROFLMAO:
Just got mine a few weeks ago for $229.99. Bastards! :ROFL: :ROFLMAO:
You can always get a price adj in the warehouse
did you order 74x32 for your custom topper how'd it fit? did you do any upgrades to the costco one? cupholders? led dimmer?
I have the same questions, plus wondering where you ordered the custom topper - was it from the guy here in the forums, or do you have another source?
Just got mine a few weeks ago for $229.99. Bastards! :ROFL: :ROFLMAO:
I posted for that reason! Go get a price match and pick yourself up a dollar fitty glizzzy
I posted for that reason! Go get a price match and pick yourself up a dollar fitty glizzzy
Didn’t even know Costco did that. Thank you! Hellz ya I will!
Didn’t even know Costco did that. Thank you! Hellz ya I will!
There is a quirk though, you have to have the paper receipt. Atleast at our locations.
There is a quirk though, you have to have the paper receipt. Atleast at our locations.
Dang! That's whack. Ours usually just scans our card.
Costco Barrington with LEDs on sale for $199.99
Anybody know a good spot to get custom felts made for this table?
This table would be great if it came with wheels lol! It’s so heavy to move around!
Anybody know a good spot to get custom felts made for this table?
This table would be great if it came with wheels lol! It’s so heavy to move around!
Look around here and you will likely find what you are looking for...
Look around here and you will likely find what you are looking for...View attachment 1431444 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1431444/)
Thanks !
Anybody know a good spot to get custom felts made for this table?
This table would be great if it came with wheels lol! It’s so heavy to move around!
I use these to move tables around the garage. I just set them near each foot and lift it onto them one end at a time and they easily roll to where I need them
https://a.co/d/2jwhlNH (https://a.co/d/2jwhlNH?tag=amznpcfx-20)
Does anyone have pictures of a dimmer installed with the original LED lights? Table coming this week and want to get a jump on improvements
Cheers
Does anyone have pictures of a dimmer installed with the original LED lights? Table coming this week and want to get a jump on improvements
Cheers
Here ya go. $10 Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/?tag=amznpcfx-20) dimmer. It does the job, but white turns pretty orange/red as you go low. Also, likely due to the cheap $10 product, you can hear a buzzing sound. The main issue I still see is the lack of a diffuser - don’t love the look of seeing each individual light.
U need to upgrade that lol if u don’t like it…
U need to upgrade that lol if u don’t like it…
Agreed! Thinking COB light strip may be the way to go but also hoping to learn from others who have taken the plunge before me
There is another thread that covers this, I did it and it works great!
Saturday morning cupholder upgrade assembly line with @sethwanab (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/13582/)
Three tables upgraded in just over 90 min start to finish.View attachment 1409702 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1409702/)
the new tables seem extremely durable this time around.... a few questions...
how did you loosen the existing cup holders without damaging the cushion? ive heard of people using a hairdryer to get the glue to soften up
there appears to be 2 layers of wood now, im assuming you had to go through both layers?
Thank you guys for putting me on this sale, swooped it up last night, hauled it up my stairs by myself… was a heavy sucker…
Put it right next to my other table that looks like it might be featured on that fugly table thread (they made me want to get a new one lmao) @Mushmanchuman (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/6871/)
The lights are kind of bright and harsh on the eyes and I see there’s things you can do about that…
Also happy to hear the cup holders have been upgraded slightly? It looks like a normal can size cup works well and catches the edge to prevent spillage but a white claw type of can, will easily splash the pot in a bad way…
the new tables seem extremely durable this time around.... a few questions...
how did you loosen the existing cup holders without damaging the cushion? ive heard of people using a hairdryer to get the glue to soften up
there appears to be 2 layers of wood now, im assuming you had to go through both layers?
Yes used a hair dryer and it worked well. I let the cups sit loosened for two minutes to avoid glue strings when I removed them. See this page of the thread for detailed instructions:
https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/barrington-poker-table-thread.30910/page-42
Wood definitely thicker on the newer tables but the hole saw worked well.
Yes used a hair dryer and it worked well. I let the cups sit loosened for two minutes to avoid glue strings when I removed them. See this page of the thread for detailed instructions:
https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/barrington-poker-table-thread.30910/page-42
Wood definitely thicker on the newer tables but the hole saw worked well.
What size cup holders did you go with? I’ve seen the post previously with a link to jumbo cup holders. I’m curious what the largest size would be that works
Yes used a hair dryer and it worked well. I let the cups sit loosened for two minutes to avoid glue strings when I removed them. See this page of the thread for detailed instructions:
https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/barrington-poker-table-thread.30910/page-42
Wood definitely thicker on the newer tables but the hole saw worked well.
Did you do the measurements he mentioned or just drilled straight down? It's possible I have a monkey brain and I'm not understanding the purpose of measuring for a pilot hole. The hole saw should just fit right in?
What size cup holders did you go with? I’ve seen the post previously with a link to jumbo cup holders. I’m curious what the largest size would be that works
We used the cup holders that were linked in the instructions.
Did you do the measurements he mentioned or just drilled straight down? It's possible I have a monkey brain and I'm not understanding the purpose of measuring for a pilot hole. The hole saw should just fit right in?
Yes we used his methodology but just used a sharpie to mark. We weren’t exact but were close enough (wanted to make sure we didn’t cut into the outer rail)
Yes we used his methodology but just used a sharpie to mark. We weren’t exact but were close enough (wanted to make sure we didn’t cut into the outer rail)
Thanks for the response. Last time I did this, I didn't measure, I just drilled and everything went fine, so wasn't sure of the purpose of measuring... Not sure I do yet lol will probably just assume that method is the correct way and go with that.
And you guys drilled with the table flipped right?
Thanks for the heads up guys...got my price adjustment today.
No price adjustment for me.. over 30 days
Anyone have a preference for a diffuser?
Here you guys go!
Full album:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/qxarNidBLc7JKxEV6
View attachment 1387233 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1387233/)
Is this in Houston by chance?
Is this in Houston by chance?
The app shows in stock at both the Williowbrook and Woodlands locations for $169.99.
Anyone have insight as to why these are $329 (currently 12/11/2024) on the Costco website? My closest Costco is Spartanburg SC... Is it due to Christmas? Gouging due to popularity? Or is "free shipping" actually embedded in the $329 price? IE are these still much cheaper IF you pick up in store?? Thanks..!
Anyone have insight as to why these are $329 (currently 12/11/2024) on the Costco website? My closest Costco is Spartanburg SC... Is it due to Christmas? Gouging due to popularity? Or is "freee shipping" actually embedded in the $329 price? IE are these still much cheaper IF you pick up in store?? Thanks..!
Not sure. I’m going to go check the location that @harrysallout (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/563/) mentioned to see if it’s at that $170 price in store. Guess you gotta go check? Not sure whether the app pricing is different from the website. I’m not a member, so not sure how they list stuff. Just gonna use a friend to get me in and check it out.
Anyone have insight as to why these are $329 (currently 12/11/2024) on the Costco website? My closest Costco is Spartanburg SC... Is it due to Christmas? Gouging due to popularity? Or is "freee shipping" actually embedded in the $329 price? IE are these still much cheaper IF you pick up in store?? Thanks..!
I think the website shows prices assuming it’s being shipped to you (or your local store) and are building in those costs. The items bulk shipped in quantity to the store are at a much greater discount.
In the Costco app if you click warehouse at the bottom you can check inventory in the warehouse.
Tried the price adjustment and was told I needed the paper receipt or needed to pull up the purchase on the app in order to get price adjusted.
Tried the price adjustment and was told I needed the paper receipt or needed to pull up the purchase on the app in order to get price adjusted.
That’s the first time I’ve ever heard this. They can always pull up your purchase history as soon as they scan your card, I’ve done it many times.
Either they changed policy, or it was someone who didn’t want to go through the trouble.
Is this in Houston by chance?
Yes I just bought one yesterday at the I10 and bunker hill location. Be ware that its very heavy and large.
good luck!
That’s the first time I’ve ever heard this. They can always pull up your purchase history as soon as they scan your card, I’ve done it many times.
Either they changed policy, or it was someone who didn’t want to go through the trouble.
The oak Brook IL location says they changed their policy in March of this year. Need paper or pull it up on the app yourself. They will not look it up. Likely coming to a Costco near you as they were the first in the area to have card scanners at entry also.
The oak Brook IL location says they changed their policy in March of this year. Need paper or pull it up on the app yourself. They will not look it up. Likely coming to a Costco near you as they were the first in the area to have card scanners at entry also.
Ahhh…good ol’ customer service.
Evaporating at a store near you!
Next thing you know, you’ll be ringing up merchandise yourself!
Oh, wait…
Anyone have a preference for a diffuser?
Interested as well
Got my price adjustment as it went down to $170 here in Indy. Thanks guys.
I recently upgraded my cup holders after a couple of close calls of having drinks spilled onto the playing surface. The cup holders that come with the table are a joke (a very cruel and sad joke). If you're on the fence about upgrading yours, don't delay. Get them upgraded. They're a huge improvement.
View attachment 1289094 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289094/)
I was really encouraged by the posts by @dmoney (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/3698/) and @greedyintern (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/17235/). Huge shout out to them and their guides. Those helped tremendously. This is dedicated to @Saoliver (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/1603/) who asked for a video (in the thread - not to me personally) but this is as close to a video I could muster. I hope this is helpful. :)
Items/tools:
View attachment 1289142 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289142/)
Replacement cup holders (https://www.amazon.com/YH-Poker-Jumbo-Stainless-Holders/dp/B0789HG6NW/?tag=amznpcfx-20)
Gloves
Eye protection
Auto trim removal tool (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C6V39SVH?tag=amznpcfx-20)
Screwdriver
Hole saw (3 5/8") (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01987566S?tag=amznpcfx-20) - (In retrospect, I would have used a different hole saw. Maybe the Milwaukee one)
Tape measure
Cardboard sheet
Hole saw arbor
1/4" drill bit
1/8" drill bit
Screw
Drill
Hair dryer (not pictured)
Step 1: Remove original cup holders
This step is pretty simple. Set the hairdryer on high heat and keep it approximately 1 inch away from the cup holder for about a minute. Most of the cup holders will only require a minute for the glue to loosen up. I only had a couple that needed more time. For those, I did it again for another minute.
View attachment 1289155 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289155/)
After the hairdryer, use the auto trim tool to pry the cup holder away from the loose glue. Work the tool around the cup holder while gently pulling the cup and glue apart.
View attachment 1289156 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289156/)
A couple of things to keep in mind when you remove the cup holder from the table:
The cup holder will be hot from the hairdryer so wear your gloves.
The glue will be very sticky so pull directly up and not to the side. Try not to get any on your the table/padding.
View attachment 1289157 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289157/)
Step 2: Mark the drill hole
Before you move onto this step, make sure all the glue has completely cooled off and dried.
This step is relatively easy but requires some concentration. The exactness of this step will ensure your new cup holders will be where you want them to be.
The original cup holders on my Barrington is measured at 3 1/2" across. You should double check yours if you're going to follow this step of my guide.
View attachment 1289168 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289168/)
The new cup holders measure 4" across.
View attachment 1289169 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289169/)
Since the size difference between the 2 cup holders is 1/2", we will need to mark the new center hole 1/4" away from the original center.
Here is a reference on how I calculated my center hole. I started the measure from the outer edge of the original cup holder. The idea is to mark the new center at the 2" mark.
View attachment 1289453 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289453/)
Here is a better visualization of this. The new center hole has to be 1/4" closer to the table and yet remain in center of the left/right side edges.
View attachment 1289461 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289461/)
I tried using a marker on the glue but found it difficult to accurately mark the exact location of the new hole. I decided to use a screw instead and that worked much better. The good thing about this is that I could move the screw easily to make fine adjustments as much as I needed. Once I've double (tripled!) checked my measurement I screwed in the screw to make a pilot hole. I didn't drill too deep - just deep enough to make a visible hole.
View attachment 1289462 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289462/)
Ultimately, I ended up with this outcome. I then took my 1/8" drill bit and drilled through the table using the pilot hole as a guide.
View attachment 1289471 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289471/)
Step 3: Drill out the new holes (from the bottom)
Flip the table upside down.
Before I drilled the hole with my hole saw, I drilled through the existing hole using the 1/4" drill bit. The reason for this is that the drill arbor is 1/4" so I wanted to make sure the arbor was aligned exactly to the new center. In retrospect, I suspect I could have used the 1/4" bit instead of the 1/8" bit in Step 2 and saved a step.
Drilling the hole was the worst part (for me). The hardest part was intentionally going slow and not hurry the process. The thing to note here is to stop drilling immediately after you've broken through to the foam. I was a nervous wreck trying not to over drill.
As you can see below, the foam is glued to the wood so I had to carefully separate the foam after I had drilled through the wood. Try to retain as much foam as you can in the original hole. This will help with the snugness of the new cup holder.
View attachment 1289474 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289474/)
Here is an "in progress" picture of the process. I really wanted to see the new cup holder put in so I did that one right away (it's rad). I was also doubting I did the math properly in Step 2 so I wanted to quadruple check it was right (it was). TRUST THE MATH!
I also wanted to show the new Barringtons have clearance for the holes without sawing any of the posts.
Please ignore my monstrosity of a drill. The nerds over at r/tools will ban me if they ever saw that thing.
View attachment 1289481 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289481/)
Step 4: Insert new cup holders and ENJOY
This step is easy and the most enjoyable. The new cup holders will be very snug (tight) in the new opening. I used a cardboard sheet to help me evenly apply pressure and knead the cup holder in. Think flattening pizza dough - same idea and motion.
Others mentioned having to tape their new cup holders with masking / duct tape to make them snug but I didn't have to do that. The foam and vinyl were enough to keep these cup holders very tight and snug. Oh, speaking of foam, trim away the excess foam that will be sticking out of the bottom after you're all done.
That's it! Enjoy your new rad cup holders!
Don't yell at me about my chairs. They're next to be upgraded!
View attachment 1289497 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289497/)
Killer detail! thanks for the step by step, will be doing this soon!
When installing cup holders did anyone else run into their felt and create some creases in the playing surface? The creases/wrinkles are not large, but there are a couple in the grey playing surface as a result of the hole saw catching it under the rail.
When installing cup holders did anyone else run into their felt and create some creases in the playing surface? The creases/wrinkles are not large, but there are a couple in the grey playing surface as a result of the hole saw catching it under the rail.
Can you remove the arm rest in that section and pull the felt tight then staple it?
Why the F is it always $329.99 in mass, how are we F’in so different…
When installing cup holders did anyone else run into their felt and create some creases in the playing surface? The creases/wrinkles are not large, but there are a couple in the grey playing surface as a result of the hole saw catching it under the rail.
A lot of people prefer to replace the felt with SSC or use a topper on these anyway. There is a current topper group buy going on now
Why the F is it always $329.99 in mass, how are we F’in so different…
Darn Massholes!
Can you remove the arm rest in that section and pull the felt tight then staple it?
I am not sure, I think I would have to take the bottom off the table, cupholders out, rail off, etc. Complete disassembly.
When installing cup holders did anyone else run into their felt and create some creases in the playing surface? The creases/wrinkles are not large, but there are a couple in the grey playing surface as a result of the hole saw catching it under the rail.
You could just get a topper for the table... that would be the easiest fix.
That’s the plan. Just a matter of whether I do the group buy then sell on marketplace for the extras to offset cost, or if I buy a one off.
Been gone awhile..are these Costco tables the same size as the Walmart ones that have the upgraded rails?
Finally upgraded cupholders on my costco barrington. I had done the Walmart non led upgrade a few months ago, this costco upgrade was definitely a tougher task to complete.
Question - anyone know how to properly hook this dimmer? Bought the one rec on this thread, but not having any luck with it. If I plug the table direct into the wall and connect the dimmer it kinda works but it takes like the full knob turn to barley get a dim. Hooking it with the battery block it gives no response
View attachment 1437211 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1437211/)View attachment 1437212 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1437212/)View attachment 1437213 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1437213/)View attachment 1437214 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1437214/)
Finally upgraded cupholders on my costco barrington. I had done the Walmart non led upgrade a few months ago, this costco upgrade was definitely a tougher task to complete.
Question - anyone know how to properly hook this dimmer? Bought the one rec on this thread, but not having any luck with it. If I plug the table direct into the wall and connect the dimmer it kinda works but it takes like the full knob turn to barley get a dim. Hooking it with the battery block it gives no response
Can you elaborate on how the Costco table upgrade is a tougher task? Is it just the LED issues?
View attachment 1437211 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1437211/)View attachment 1437212 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1437212/)View attachment 1437213 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1437213/)View attachment 1437214 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1437214/)
Finally upgraded cupholders on my costco barrington. I had done the Walmart non led upgrade a few months ago, this costco upgrade was definitely a tougher task to complete.
Question - anyone know how to properly hook this dimmer? Bought the one rec on this thread, but not having any luck with it. If I plug the table direct into the wall and connect the dimmer it kinda works but it takes like the full knob turn to barley get a dim. Hooking it with the battery block it gives no response
It's possible the stock LEDs are not the dimmable type but the COB LEDs that some have upgraded to are dimmable. I know some LEDs can be finicky with a drop in voltage that a standard dimmer provides.
The install of the COB LED and dimmer doesn't scare me one bit......only because my best friend and member of our poker group is one hell of an electrician. I literally just threw it in his lap. "Hey bud, going to perform an upgrade on my table and it looks like this. You're doing it. Thanks." hahahahahaha
Can you elaborate on how the Costco table upgrade is a tougher task? Is it just the LED issues?
it definitely is a better made table than the walmart one. Heavier I would guess from the thicker plywood, so took me a lot longer. May not be an issue if you have a good drill, mine is mid. Lots of glue, lots of staples after sawing through every first level. Had to pull a couple staples out at every hole then the second level was just thick so just took time for me. No issues with the led during the upgrade. Lots of good info on the this thread for the cup holder replacement, if ya follow it shouldn't run into any problems you can't get around. GL with it!
View attachment 1437214 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1437214/)
Question - anyone know how to properly hook this dimmer? Bought the one rec on this thread, but not having any luck with it. If I plug the table direct into the wall and connect the dimmer it kinda works but it takes like the full knob turn to barley get a dim. Hooking it with the battery block it gives no response
See my post below. Try flipping the dimmer 180 in your chain - those are one-way only.
Those PWM rotary dimmers for LEDs are not bi-directional - you have to have the “input” pigtail connected to your battery pack and the “output” pigtail to the LEDs.
Easy to miss and not a big deal, unless your battery and/or LED strip has a M connector where you want a F connector - then you’ll need an adapter or need to cut/splice a connector or two.
I encountered this with the rechargeable battery pack that I’m using, but it came with a Y-connector cable with both M and F plugs so I shoved that in the chain and all was good.
Went on sale at Costco to the lowest price I’ve seen. Had a relative pick it up for me since it was in San Diego.
View attachment 1439237 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1439237/)Went on sale at Costco to the lowest price I’ve seen. Had a relative pick it up for me since it was in San Diego.
getting me a price adjustment tomorrow!! ... do i need a third table...
In Omaha it was $199 yesterday. $149 today. Outside my 30 days. Dang.
Anyone have a preference for a diffuser?
Interested in this as well. Seems this would be a more elegant solution than a dimmer if possible
In Omaha it was $199 yesterday. $149 today. Outside my 30 days. Dang.
Can’t you just say you will buy it and return it with the outside 30 day receipt?
Interested in this as well. Seems this would be a more elegant solution than a dimmer if possible
What’s that do? The above instructions on the recommended dimmer worked
Can’t you just say you will buy it and return it with the outside 30 day receipt?
Yes I could but won’t. I am already down to $169 with multiple price adjustments so it is $20. My table also has 9 new cup holders in it since I bought it (10th broke upon install). So the table I bought is not in a condition to actually return.
Yes I could but won’t. I am already down to $169 with multiple price adjustments so it is $20. My table also has 9 new cup holders in it since I bought it (10th broke upon install). So the table I bought is not in a condition to actually return.
Oh hell no I wouldn’t actually load it up from home for $20. Just meant saying it to them, for them to then just process it. But if they were in the store you could buy it new then wheel it to CS and return it with the $169 receipt if they wanna play games.
My wife actually told me that I should buy 3 of them, do the topper group buy, and then sell the tables with toppers on marketplace ha
Would a few people mind sharing pictures of their Costco Barrington set up in their poker room? Trying to see how it comes to my existing table.
There are lots of stock images & pictures of it in the Costco warehouses but that's not a table's "natural environment".
What’s that do? The above instructions on the recommended dimmer worked
A plastic diffuser strip in front of the LEDs, so the light from them is more of a solid bar than pinpoint LEDs (That are harsh). Dimming them is one solution but it doesn't solve the pinpoint look...there's not a lot of room there for a strip though. I might try something if I can find the right diffuser material.
A plastic diffuser strip in front of the LEDs, so the light from them is more of a solid bar than pinpoint LEDs (That are harsh). Dimming them is one solution but it doesn't solve the pinpoint look...there's not a lot of room there for a strip though. I might try something if I can find the right diffuser material.
Spending money on a diffuser that may or may not eliminate the pinpoint effect may not be the best option. Placing a strip of COB led lights directly in front of the existing led lights may be a more expensive option, but users earlier in this thread have shown it to be a very attractive solution.
I have yet to purchase the cob light strip, but it’s in the plan.
Spending money on a diffuser that may or may not eliminate the pinpoint effect may not be the best option. Placing a strip of COB led lights directly in front of the existing led lights may be a more expensive option, but users earlier in this thread have shown it to be a very attractive solution.
I have yet to purchase the cob light strip, but it’s in the plan.
i feel like i've seen you talking about doing it forever on the barrington threads! haha, new year new poker table... do it!
the dimmer ended up working for me after blk's suggestion, i thought i had tried it every which way.
i feel like i've seen you talking about doing it forever on the barrington threads! haha, new year new poker table... do it!
the dimmer ended up working for me after blk's suggestion, i thought i had tried it every which way.
Yeah, been dragging my feet on the light upgrade. Hell, I still have the hole saw and large cup holders, but haven’t done that either.
No home game right now has let me procrastinate the upgrades. Someday!
Does anyone have any storage case recs for the Barrington table? My Costco one’s zipper broke off immediately
Does anyone have any storage case recs for the Barrington table? My Costco one’s zipper broke off immediately
https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/barrington-poker-table-thread.30910/post-2544375
https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/barrington-poker-table-thread.30910/post-2544375
That's the bag I have, it's great. Still prefer 2 people to carry if possible because the table is so heavy, but that bag is great protection.
edit: the bag I have is not offered on that Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/?tag=amznpcfx-20) link anymore. The size you want for that Hengme bag is 43.3 x 43.3 x 7.9.
Does anyone have any storage case recs for the Barrington table? My Costco one’s zipper broke off immediately
Get the one from Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/?tag=amznpcfx-20). The bag that’s included is a piece of shit and has the worst zipper known to man. My father-in-law is a tailor and I didn’t even bother taking it to him to get it fixed. Garbage.
Get the one from Amazon. The bag that’s included is a piece of shit and has the worst zipper known to man. My father-in-law is a tailor and I didn’t even bother taking it to him to get it fixed. Garbage.
Edit: Deleted
Well I just went to get a price adjustment and apparently this costco wanted to get rid of them so badly, I got an adjustment of $93.74!!!
I purchased it less than a month ago for the 169.99 sale
Well I just went to get a price adjustment and apparently this costco wanted to get rid of them so badly, I got an adjustment of $93.74!!!
I purchased it less than a month ago for the 169.99 sale
Wow
Well I just went to get a price adjustment and apparently this costco wanted to get rid of them so badly, I got an adjustment of $93.74!!!
I purchased it less than a month ago for the 169.99 sale
Nice! Dang I need to stop into mine
Gotta love Costco’s “Get it the hell out of here” pricing.
Well I just went to get a price adjustment and apparently this costco wanted to get rid of them so badly, I got an adjustment of $93.74!!!
I purchased it less than a month ago for the 169.99 sale
Does that mean your warehouse is selling them for $77 at the moment??
Does that mean your warehouse is selling them for $77 at the moment??
I think that included tax, so it was like $85 or something
But when I back on the floor I couldn’t find any, the computer looked like there were 3 left (but maybe that was in the whole neighboring areas).
I think that included tax, so it was like $85 or something
But when I back on the floor I couldn’t find any, the computer looked like there were 3 left (but maybe that was in the whole neighboring areas).
What’s your zip code or store location
I picked one up tonight and it was @$149. So no crazy Eddie deals here yet,
What’s your zip code or store location
It was the Redmond, Washington Costco 98052
I grabbed one at my local Costco this weekend for $150. They still have several as of today. This is in Lubbock, TX.
I finished my Barrington cup holders upgrade, and only messed up one of the holes (oops!) You have to be super extra careful when getting close to the end of drilling each hole so as to not overshoot and tear the vinyl. I used some electrical tape to patch it up, which doesn't look too bad, but still annoying that it happened.
I finished my Barrington cup holders upgrade, and only messed up one of the holes (oops!) You have to be super extra careful when getting close to the end of drilling each hole so as to not overshoot and tear the vinyl. I used some electrical tape to patch it up, which doesn't look too bad, but still annoying that it happened.
I didn’t catch any vinyl with the hole saw, but the vinyl did get messed up when I drilled my holes, the vinyl was wrinkled like someone pulled on it. I also broke a cup holder during install with my mallet, so I had order more. But all in all nobody will notice but me.
It's possible the stock LEDs are not the dimmable type but the COB LEDs that some have upgraded to are dimmable. I know some LEDs can be finicky with a drop in voltage that a standard dimmer provides.
My apologies if this was already answered, but did anybody confirm if the stock LEDs on the Costco Barrington are dimmable or not, if you buy a dimmer such as this one? Thank you! https://a.co/d/0u5Gvug (https://a.co/d/0u5Gvug?tag=amznpcfx-20)
My apologies if this was already answered, but did anybody confirm if the stock LEDs on the Costco Barrington are dimmable or not, if you buy a dimmer such as this one? Thank you! https://a.co/d/0u5Gvug (https://a.co/d/0u5Gvug?tag=amznpcfx-20)
I can confirm. It really only had one dim option but it lowers it
I can confirm. It really only had one dim option but it lowers it
Thank you. Was it acceptable and worth it, or not a noticeable/good difference?
Thank you. Was it acceptable and worth it, or not a noticeable/good difference?
Yes. Worth it. Noticeable. You dial it down and nothing happens and then it suddenly goes dim and then off. It jumps from too bright to being dim enough to be playable
Yes. Worth it. Noticeable. You dial it down and nothing happens and then it suddenly goes dim and then off. It jumps from too bright to being dim enough to be playable
Perfect, thanks!
Also, I don't know if anybody has ever tried this, but instead of buying a battery pack, I was going to order and try this Rechargeable 12V DC Output Lithium ion Battery Pack. Reviews say they get about 3-4 hrs out of it one charge, and for $23 seems like a steal. If anybody has any experience with this one or something similar they would recommend, let me know. thanks!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MHNQIR2/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=A24OIV2F0TL1K3&psc=1 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MHNQIR2/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=A24OIV2F0TL1K3&psc=1&tag=amznpcfx-20)
Also, I don't know if anybody has ever tried this, but instead of buying a battery pack, I was going to order and try this Rechargeable 12V DC Output Lithium ion Battery Pack. Reviews say they get about 3-4 hrs out of it one charge, and for $23 seems like a steal. If anybody has any experience with this one or something similar they would recommend, let me know. thanks!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MHNQIR2/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=A24OIV2F0TL1K3&psc=1 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MHNQIR2/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=A24OIV2F0TL1K3&psc=1&tag=amznpcfx-20)
I have not tried it but considered. Ultimately decided I expect failure based on past experiences with battery packs off Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/?tag=amznpcfx-20) in general
I have not tried it but considered. Ultimately decided I expect failure based on past experiences with battery packs off Amazon in general
I ordered it, so I’ll see how it goes.
Also, I don't know if anybody has ever tried this, but instead of buying a battery pack, I was going to order and try this Rechargeable 12V DC Output Lithium ion Battery Pack. Reviews say they get about 3-4 hrs out of it one charge, and for $23 seems like a steal. If anybody has any experience with this one or something similar they would recommend, let me know. thanks!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MHNQIR2/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=A24OIV2F0TL1K3&psc=1 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MHNQIR2/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=A24OIV2F0TL1K3&psc=1&tag=amznpcfx-20)
Yep it’s recommended on this thread along with a dimmer. Setup works for me.
I ordered it, so I’ll see how it goes.
cool. please report back!
If there was a convenient way to do this with an 18v Makita battery I would do that over AA’s without hesitation.
If there was a convenient way to do this with an 18v Makita battery I would do that over AA’s without hesitation.
My kids have a bunch of 12v ride on toys that I converted to DeWalt 20v batteries that step down to 12v. I wonder if the kits on Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/?tag=amznpcfx-20) would work. I used a kit like this: https://a.co/d/9RlbCOr (https://a.co/d/9RlbCOr?tag=amznpcfx-20).
My kids have a bunch of 12v ride on toys that I converted to DeWalt 20v batteries that step down to 12v. I wonder if the kits on Amazon would work. I used a kit like this: https://a.co/d/9RlbCOr (https://a.co/d/9RlbCOr?tag=amznpcfx-20).
I’d imagine the amperage would be a big issue. But I’m not an electrician. Though I do like that solution for power wheels, dramatically speeds them up. Replacing motors isn’t fun but easy enough, and just the cost of using these batteries to increase the fun.
Costco in Yonkers NY still has 7-8 tables available at $149.97.
$149 at my Costco, I bought the last 3 they had. Now on to a few mods. Thanks to everyone that has shared information about these.
$149 at my Costco, I bought the last 3 they had. Now on to a few mods. Thanks to everyone that has shared information about these.
Congratulations on the 300 lbs of new tables :ROFL: :ROFLMAO:
I barely got my 1 home. I can only imagine trying to get 3 in a trunk.
Congratulations on the 300 lbs of new tables :ROFL: :ROFLMAO:
I barely got my 1 home. I can only imagine trying to get 3 in a trunk.
I bought a furniture dolly to sit mine on to move around. Just no good way to grab them and move them around.
I can confirm. It really only had one dim option but it lowers it
Interesting. I got my Barrington from Costco a few weeks ago and the LEDs are not dimmable. There's a red button that cycles between red / green / blue / white / off, but I don't see a dimmer control. Is it a separate button?
Congratulations on the 300 lbs of new tables :ROFL: :ROFLMAO:
I barely got my 1 home. I can only imagine trying to get 3 in a trunk.
I have a truck with a topper and a lay down hand truck so it wasn't bad. My idea was to buy 3 and sell 2. I have one sold for $250 and if the other sells for that then I get mine for free and make $50.
Interesting. I got my Barrington from Costco a few weeks ago and the LEDs are not dimmable. There's a red button that cycles between red / green / blue / white / off, but I don't see a dimmer control. Is it a separate button?
I believe the dimmer being spoken of is something that was added, and did not come with the table. They are adding a dimmer switch.
I have a truck with a topper and a lay down hand truck so it wasn't bad. My idea was to buy 3 and sell 2. I have one sold for $250 and if the other sells for that then I get mine for free and make $50.
I bought this dimmer and battery pack. It will arrive today and I will report back. I know the battery pack works, I have already tried it.
Dimmer:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B092HX9435?ref=ppx_pt2_mob_b_prod_image (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B092HX9435?ref=ppx_pt2_mob_b_prod_image&tag=amznpcfx-20)
Battery Pack:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01M7Z9Z1N?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_image (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01M7Z9Z1N?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_image&tag=amznpcfx-20)
Congratulations on the 300 lbs of new tables :ROFL: :ROFLMAO:
I barely got my 1 home. I can only imagine trying to get 3 in a trunk.
Why are these tables from Costco 40 lbs heavier then my non-LED table? MDF vs plywood?
Why are these tables from Costco 40 lbs heavier then my non-LED table? MDF vs plywood?
Plywood
I bought this dimmer and battery pack. It will arrive today and I will report back. I know the battery pack works, I have already tried it.
Dimmer:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B092HX9435?ref=ppx_pt2_mob_b_prod_image (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B092HX9435?ref=ppx_pt2_mob_b_prod_image&tag=amznpcfx-20)
Battery Pack:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01M7Z9Z1N?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_image (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01M7Z9Z1N?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_image&tag=amznpcfx-20)
I can report the dimmer and battery pack works. The dimmer works OK but doesn't dim down too much. It's definitely better than without it. I just used heavy duty velcro to attach everything.
cool. please report back!
I used my Costco Barrington table for the first time Friday and it was great. I also bought the Rechargeable 12V DC Output Lithium ion Battery Pack and the recommended dimmer and it worked great. The table was spacious for 8 people and I think I could even fit 10 but it would be tight. The battery pack was great and still has battery left after using it for about 4 hrs. The dimmer worked with existing lights but it’s kind of annoying to adjust because if you don’t get it just right the lights turn off and half to try again. There is very little wiggle room but when dimmed it did make a difference! I would recommend the combo! I am also ordering my custom Mirage themed topper to match from @rjdev7 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/1014/) that I am looking forward to!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MHNQIR2/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=A24OIV2F0TL1K3&psc=1 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MHNQIR2/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=A24OIV2F0TL1K3&psc=1&tag=amznpcfx-20)
I used my Costco Barrington table for the first time Friday and it was great. I also bought the Rechargeable 12V DC Output Lithium ion Battery Pack and the recommended dimmer and it worked great. The table was spacious for 8 people and I think I could even fit 10 but it would be tight. The battery pack was great and still has battery left after using it for about 4 hrs. The dimmer worked with existing lights but it’s kind of annoying to adjust because if you don’t get it just right the lights turn off and half to try again. There is very little wiggle room but when dimmed it did make a difference! I would recommend the combo! I am also ordering my custom Mirage themed topper to match from @rjdev7 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/1014/) that I am looking forward to!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MHNQIR2/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=A24OIV2F0TL1K3&psc=1 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MHNQIR2/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=A24OIV2F0TL1K3&psc=1&tag=amznpcfx-20)View attachment 1453557 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1453557/)View attachment 1453558 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1453558/)
Nice! What size topper did you order?
Does anyone have any storage case recs for the Barrington table? My Costco one’s zipper broke off immediately
Same thing just happened to me. I called the company medal sports from the manual and they offered to send me a replacement for free. But I am still looking into maybe buying a more sturdy replacement like the one everyone is mentioning.
Nice! What size topper did you order?
Still tbd. I am finalizing my order, but will remeasure my table today to confirm. The first time I measured I got 74.5 x 32.75. But I’m seeing that most people on here are getting 74.5 x 32.5 and are happy with it so I’m double checking. Definitely don’t want to have to trim it. And most liked even that small difference will be barely noticeable when thinking that it would be a 0.125 inch diff on each side worst case. Did you order one and happy with your size? Has anyone else ended up measuring 74.5 x 32.75 as well? Thanks!
Still tbd. I am finalizing my order, but will remeasure my table today to confirm. The first time I measured I got 74.5 x 32.75. But I’m seeing that most people on here are getting 74.5 x 32.5 and are happy with it so I’m double checking. Definitely don’t want to have to trim it. And most liked even that small difference will be barely noticeable when thinking that it would be a 0.125 inch diff on each side worst case. Did you order one and happy with your size? Has anyone else ended up measuring 74.5 x 32.75 as well? Thanks!
Glad the battery back/dimmer combo is working out for ya! When i ordered a topper for my walmart barrington I did 74x32. Did the same size for the costco one and it's works fine for me. It's not pressed up against the led, and the slight spacing around it looks good imo, but there is room to go larger on the order. whats the card shuffler you are using in your home game? is it good?
Got mine in yesterday with the LEDs. Can't wait to run the first game in a couple of weeks.
I have the same shuffler and been happy. Nothing fancy but works.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0DMT2J5YK?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_image (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0DMT2J5YK?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_image&tag=amznpcfx-20)
Glad the battery back/dimmer combo is working out for ya! When i ordered a topper for my walmart barrington I did 74x32. Did the same size for the costco one and it's works fine for me. It's not pressed up against the led, and the slight spacing around it looks good imo, but there is room to go larger on the order. whats the card shuffler you are using in your home game? is it good?
I have the same shuffler and been happy. Nothing fancy but works.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0DMT2J5YK?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_image (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0DMT2J5YK?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_image&tag=amznpcfx-20)
Still tbd. I am finalizing my order, but will remeasure my table today to confirm. The first time I measured I got 74.5 x 32.75. But I’m seeing that most people on here are getting 74.5 x 32.5 and are happy with it so I’m double checking. Definitely don’t want to have to trim it. And most liked even that small difference will be barely noticeable when thinking that it would be a 0.125 inch diff on each side worst case. Did you order one and happy with your size? Has anyone else ended up measuring 74.5 x 32.75 as well? Thanks!
I have four 74x32 toppers en route so I am hopping I will be happy with that size. Thanks
I have the same shuffler and been happy. Nothing fancy but works.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0DMT2J5YK?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_image (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0DMT2J5YK?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_image&tag=amznpcfx-20)
@BaroneSanitation (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/18130/) yah that’s the one I have too. The brand is kpaw. https://a.co/d/53OuSnC (https://a.co/d/53OuSnC?tag=amznpcfx-20)
It seems to be resold by different companies tho. It works well and speeds things up. I always use two decks and before the shuffler, whoever dealt last would shuffle then hand it two people over, so there is almost no interruption. With the shuffler it was just handed to me and I shuffled it and handed it to the next. We got so many more hands in with no interruption with the shuffler. The only annoying things were that it was very loud and it was distracting me a little from the game. I got called out a couple times . But other than that it was great. I just wish it was quieter. I got my dad this kpaw shuffler and dealer for playing other card games and it is amazing and actually a little quieter I think. I got is for $130. Not sure why they don’t have that cheaper price available anymore. It has settings for poker and can probably be used but I think I would find it annoying and prefer a manual deal for the game itself so haven’t used for poker. https://a.co/d/gZEh1ZM (https://a.co/d/gZEh1ZM?tag=amznpcfx-20)
Still tbd. I am finalizing my order, but will remeasure my table today to confirm. The first time I measured I got 74.5 x 32.75. But I’m seeing that most people on here are getting 74.5 x 32.5 and are happy with it so I’m double checking. Definitely don’t want to have to trim it. And most liked even that small difference will be barely noticeable when thinking that it would be a 0.125 inch diff on each side worst case. Did you order one and happy with your size? Has anyone else ended up measuring 74.5 x 32.75 as well? Thanks!
Has anybody ordered at 74.5 x 32.75 topper and happy with it?
price down to a black chip in NorCal. Gonna go get a refund for mine.
Awesome
price down to a black chip in NorCal. Gonna go get a refund for mine.
View attachment 1455054 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1455054/)
I bought the last 5 at my Costco. Floor model was trashed or would have gotten it also.
I bought the last 5 at my Costco. Floor model was trashed or would have gotten it also.
yeah, i showed up to get the refund, and they didn't have any left, even though inventory showed 1. so they wouldn't give me the difference. should have called first.
yeah, i showed up to get the refund, and they didn't have any left, even though inventory showed 1. so they wouldn't give me the difference. should have called first.
I'm going to try and get the price match on the first 3 I bought at the $150, we will see.
New topper. See my post about toppers I made.
Interesting. I got my Barrington from Costco a few weeks ago and the LEDs are not dimmable. There's a red button that cycles between red / green / blue / white / off, but I don't see a dimmer control. Is it a separate button?
You can buy a dimmer from Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/?tag=amznpcfx-20) like the one in the pic above that hooks between power supply and the LED's
New topper. See my post about toppers I made.
Link?
Link?
I made an entire post.
Hey I was looking at the COSTCO US site and the table is listed at $329 USD. Here in windsor Ontario it's 379.99 CAD. right now you should be getting close to $1.38 CAD per $1.00 USD. If you're in Michigan or close to a border city with a COSTCO it might be worth doing the math to see if it's cheaper. Only difference between the two is that the US one has an extra topper
yeah, i showed up to get the refund, and they didn't have any left, even though inventory showed 1. so they wouldn't give me the difference. should have called first.
Same here, no refund even though within the 30 days.
The warehouse where you're requesting the price adjustment credit has to have the item in stock (at least one unit) to give credit due to a price drop. As stated, best to call ahead of time to check, as the app's inventory is not real-time.
I used my Costco Barrington table for the first time Friday and it was great. I also bought the Rechargeable 12V DC Output Lithium ion Battery Pack and the recommended dimmer and it worked great. The table was spacious for 8 people and I think I could even fit 10 but it would be tight. The battery pack was great and still has battery left after using it for about 4 hrs. The dimmer worked with existing lights but it’s kind of annoying to adjust because if you don’t get it just right the lights turn off and half to try again. There is very little wiggle room but when dimmed it did make a difference! I would recommend the combo! I am also ordering my custom Mirage themed topper to match from @rjdev7 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/1014/) that I am looking forward to!
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MHNQIR2/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=A24OIV2F0TL1K3&psc=1 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MHNQIR2/ref=ox_sc_act_title_4?smid=A24OIV2F0TL1K3&psc=1&tag=amznpcfx-20)View attachment 1453557 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1453557/)View attachment 1453558 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1453558/)View attachment 1453559 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1453559/)
Looks great! Are those the stock cup holders? From the pictures they look plenty deep, but I've heard a lot of people say otherwise.
Looks great! Are those the stock cup holders? From the pictures they look plenty deep, but I've heard a lot of people say otherwise.
@soleman16 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/20562/) Yes, they are the stock, small black cup holders on the Costco Barrington. They are unfortunately very shallow and small. However, I don't have the time or patience or DIY skills to do the cup holder replacement myself, so instead found some cheap good scotch glasses that have a narrow base and get bigger at the top, which work great. Any beer can fits find in the cupholder as well as water bottles, just not a standard whiskey cup. That said, I did have one spill early on because of the shallowness, but people figured it out and it wasn't an issue the rest of the game! I am glad the pictures were able to deceive you! :)
I mean if someone in the Orange County / LA area who has done the cup holder replacement successfully is eager to do it again on my table for a price, I would definitely consider that! :ROFL: :ROFLMAO::). Otherwise I am keeping it stock!
Still tbd. I am finalizing my order, but will remeasure my table today to confirm. The first time I measured I got 74.5 x 32.75. But I’m seeing that most people on here are getting 74.5 x 32.5 and are happy with it so I’m double checking. Definitely don’t want to have to trim it. And most liked even that small difference will be barely noticeable when thinking that it would be a 0.125 inch diff on each side worst case. Did you order one and happy with your size? Has anyone else ended up measuring 74.5 x 32.75 as well? Thanks!
@Chipandchair (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/4850/) I ended up re-measuring and re-measuring and finally ordered a 74.25 x 32.25. Based on people's posts here it seemed like a popular order size as well. I will report back on the fit once I get it!
These mods are amazing. Seeing all these posts makes me think it looks easy to do. Thanks all
I would think that divot in the middle would drive me bonkers if I was playing with that all night.
Heads up that right now Costco has the Barrington led version for 199 delivered.
Heads up that right now Costco has the Barrington led version for 199 delivered.
I picked up 2 in store for $99 and returned one of them with my $169 purchase since it was outside the price match window.
So I finished my Barrington mods (for now) but still need to order a topper.
New LEDs, Dimmer, AA Battery Pack, and Jumbo Cupholders
COB LEDs
I wasn't the biggest fan of the blue LEDs and didn't like how they were so spaced out. I saw someone talk about the COB LEDs and how they are amost diffused already and ordered the warm white and couldn't be happier. The LEDs are very close together so you don't need to put something in front of them to diffuse them like I was trying to do with the old LEDs. Instead of ripping out the old LEDs, I actually just wedged the new LEDs right on top of the current ones. It worked out great.
I did have to cut the light strip and attach another tail end. Very easy to do but measure accurately before you cut! You don't have much leeway with the 16.4ft strip. And then used the Y connector that also came with the COB connector package.
Screwed and glued on some velcro, glued velcro to the battery pack, then buttoned up everything else. Happy with it.
COB LED Lights (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BVR755VK?tag=amznpcfx-20)
COB Connector Package (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C2CVFGL8?tag=amznpcfx-20)
Dimmer (https://www.amazon.com/weideer-Lights-Dimmer-DC12V-24V-K-018-BK/dp/B092HX9435?tag=amznpcfx-20)
Battery Pack (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09131Y9L8?tag=amznpcfx-20)
Jumbo Cupholders
I went with the jumbos after reading recommendations. Pried off the old ones with a vise grip, drilled a center hole down with a standard bit, then drilled from the bottom up with the 3 5/8in hole saw starting it the pre drilled hole. I got them all done but it was a bit of a struggle with the hole saw I bought. If I would do it again, I would get one that was deeper. This one barely made it through both pieces of wood.
Jumbo Cupholders (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0789HG6NW?tag=amznpcfx-20)
Hole Saw (buy a deeper one) (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0C6MN14B1?tag=amznpcfx-20)
View attachment 1252914 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1252914/)
Great write-up! Do you have a new link for the COB connector package for the LED lights? The one in this post no longer works. I am not great with the electrical stuff, so any help (like a new Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/?tag=amznpcfx-20) link) with what is needed here would be really helpful!
Great write-up! Do you have a new link for the COB connector package for the LED lights? The one in this post no longer works. I am not great with the electrical stuff, so any help (like a new Amazon link) with what is needed here would be really helpful!
Frustrating that that package isn't available anymore.
Here is a similar 10mm one (https://a.co/d/663xxbC?tag=amznpcfx-20) that is very close to that first connector package that I listed.
And here is an 8mm one that's also very close (https://a.co/d/bNH0C63?tag=amznpcfx-20) but it doesn't have clear connections like the first one, but that doesn't really matter. You do, however, get more items in case you screw up or one fails in this one.
What I never realized is that I used an 8 mm COB light strip and 10 mm connections. It's all been working fine, but maybe I should have used 8 mm connections :)
I assume as long as your connection package is bigger than the light strip it will probably work, but not the other way around. Good luck!
Frustrating that that package isn't available anymore.
Here is a similar 10mm one (https://a.co/d/663xxbC?tag=amznpcfx-20) that is very close to that first connector package that I listed.
And here is an 8mm one that's also very close (https://a.co/d/bNH0C63?tag=amznpcfx-20) but it doesn't have clear connections like the first one, but that doesn't really matter. You do, however, get more items in case you screw up or one fails in this one.
What I never realized is that I used an 8 mm COB light strip and 10 mm connections. It's all been working fine, but maybe I should have used 8 mm connections :)
I assume as long as your connection package is bigger than the light strip it will probably work, but not the other way around. Good luck!
This is super helpful! Thanks for taking the time to link me. I added it to my cart. If you were to do it over again, would you pair the 8mm lights with the 8mm connectors?
How is everything working out with the lights and table? Are you still happy with the Barrington table? Did you also upgrade the cupholders as well?
With the discounted pricing, I currently have four of the Barrington tables in my cart but hovering over the buy button as I continue my research. So, first-hand experience and customization from people like you is the feedback I'm looking for.
Thanks again for taking the time to help me!
Well, I just purchased four Barrington tables from Costco online. Not sure how I feel about it, haha.
Is there a support group or 12-step program on this forum?
Step 1 buy a barrington
Step 2 buy a table topper
Step 3 buy a new chip set
Step 4 buy another table topper that matches the chip set
Repeat steps 3 and 4 until wife is mad
Well, I just purchased four Barrington tables from Costco online. Not sure how I feel about it, haha.
Is there a support group or 12-step program on this forum?
This is an environment of enablers… only 12 step program is the expanded version of what RJdev7 just said
Step 1 buy a barrington
Step 2 buy a table topper
Step 3 buy a new chip set
Step 4 buy another table topper that matches the chip set
Repeat steps 3 and 4 until wife is mad
I'm currently working on the chip set. Once that is finalized, matching toppers and dealer buttons are next. Oh, and matching cut cards. I also have to do the cupholders and COB LEDs with dimmers.
I need serious help.
I would think that divot in the middle would drive me bonkers if I was playing with that all night.
That's what custom toppers are forrrr
Step 1 buy a barrington
Step 2 buy a table topper
Step 3 buy a new chip set
Step 4 buy another table topper that matches the chip set
Repeat steps 3 and 4 until wife is mad
That's what custom toppers are forrrr
Even with the topper wouldn’t the bump still be felt?
Even with the topper wouldn’t the bump still be felt?
Why would I tell you to get a topper if that was the case?
Even with the topper wouldn’t the bump still be felt?
Honestly not really, I guess if you really try to dig in there but its not noticeable and I have had no issues with cards or chips catching.
Why would I tell you to get a topper if that was the case?
Don’t want to go back and forth with you. But Im assuming the topper would help but still not fully fix the divot. Just my reasoning for replying.
Don’t want to go back and forth with you. But Im assuming the topper would help but still not fully fix the divot. Just my reasoning for replying.
Dude your original post was about the fold in the middle
My reply was that's what the custom topper is for
and yet you still ask me if that will fix the issue. LOL
Don’t want to go back and forth with you. But Im assuming the topper would help but still not fully fix the divot. Just my reasoning for replying.
You can get an additional thin layer of foam to put under the topper if you're really paranoid. Although I don't have personal experience (yet), a topper seems to solve the issue of folding crack. The topper is a nice upgrade to what appears to be a very nice table for the money that also folds up and stores conveniently.
I'm sure others can chime in as to whether they still notice the fold divot even after adding a topper.
Don’t want to go back and forth with you. But Im assuming the topper would help but still not fully fix the divot. Just my reasoning for replying.
With my table, when I place the topper on before a game, the divot isn’t visible. After a few hours of play, I can barely notice it, and even then, it doesn’t impact gameplay or bother me at all. That’s just my personal experience.
You can get an additional thin layer of foam to put under the topper if you're really paranoid. Although I don't have personal experience (yet), a topper seems to solve the issue of folding crack. The topper is a nice upgrade to what appears to be a very nice table for the money that also folds up and stores conveniently.
I'm sure others can chime in as to whether they still notice the fold divot even after adding a topper.
With this in mind…can you buy a custom rail anywhere? I have an outdoor table that I would love to also use for a poker night but I feel like a rail is necessary.
With this in mind…can you buy a custom rail anywhere? I have an outdoor table that I would love to also use for a poker night but I feel like a rail is necessary.
I'm new here and not the best person to ask, but I bet there is someone on here that will know for sure. There's a guy for everything on here. Otherwise, I would contact a carpenter on your local craigslist to do it for you. I'm sure you could get something done for a reasonable price.
I'm new here and not the best person to ask, but I bet there is someone on here that will know for sure. There's a guy for everything on here. Otherwise, I would contact a carpenter on your local craigslist to do it for you. I'm sure you could get something done for a reasonable price.
With this in mind…can you buy a custom rail anywhere? I have an outdoor table that I would love to also use for a poker night but I feel like a rail is necessary.
https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/re-upholstering-poker-table-rail.41438/
Dude your original post was about the fold in the middle
My reply was that's what the custom topper is for
and yet you still ask me if that will fix the issue. LOL
Yes if it will fully fix the issue. I didn’t know if maybe it would only mask it a bit. Sorry for asking a follow up question. Haha. I won’t do that again with you my man.
I'm new here and not the best person to ask, but I bet there is someone on here that will know for sure. There's a guy for everything on here. Otherwise, I would contact a carpenter on your local craigslist to do it for you. I'm sure you could get something done for a reasonable price.
I’d love to know or find someone who does this. I’m not near talented enough to tackle something like this. But I’d be willing to pay.
I have a rectangular table and I’d like to just buy a topper (with a thin layer of foam underneath) but I feel like without a rail it’s pointless. Has anyone seen a rectangular rail?
Anyone have a recommendation for a 3 5/8" hole saw they thought worked really well for the cupholder upgrade? I would prefer a hole saw with an arbor for convenience.
After reading, I saw a lot of people mentioning they wish they used a different hole saw that was deeper. Is this one acceptable? (https://www.amazon.com/LENOX-Tools-Bi-Metal-Arbored-Technology/dp/B0054SBE4E/ref=sr_1_4?crid=D9MZDXDQBXHS&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.IXBUXcMbCYuRFvNBX0cIotNVlnSzkdfhMTDoXPCxfn83lLUueeeBq69yYSV9bwGwdUb50knP0AD0182zVUfLRfiNjWowKRgwgM9u-801R7eunANxHVcZZ7iaN-m9aBLu_yWSlWmozOdmYB-M36owLipQZE569oRnafVN31V8-Gpzh00HPpkjD_gOKaXd_fGFfP0DU9ln06jefHwi70k0W3GL17_J_0MpDHscz0e7efiGOJ9IqOU_cp7FX_LWuiFBbjEg4eV9PIVwnD7EhtH70Fr_QBCQTPEDPHpR24sJBb98WYdZbFJ3gpt0TLfOV-RshLgVYaTkdOVj6aQikw5roAIbahHlR_WimD5F6PLhG83c3qlsPfo2WzlKKfVHsPlzUe-vbk2o5NMjmRONo9_jvaKiZvIbw_R7lYXYOgHjFyHNvHY36O3P_s_TpaDC-Exy.ye5eRYbMaeEKHAhyHF_HUSQ0e9v-_zlpNMlo2jUoTdM&dib_tag=se&keywords=3%2B5%2F8%2Bhole%2Bsaw%2Bmilwaukee&qid=1741569801&sprefix=3%2B5%2F8%2Bhole%2Bsaw%2Bmilwaukee%2Caps%2C91&sr=8-4&th=1&tag=amznpcfx-20)
Anyone have a recommendation for a 3 5/8" hole saw they thought worked really well for the cupholder upgrade? I would prefer a hole saw with an arbor for convenience.
After reading, I saw a lot of people mentioning they wish they used a different hole saw. Is this one acceptable? (https://www.amazon.com/LENOX-Tools-Bi-Metal-Arbored-Technology/dp/B0054SBE4E/ref=sr_1_4?crid=D9MZDXDQBXHS&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.IXBUXcMbCYuRFvNBX0cIotNVlnSzkdfhMTDoXPCxfn83lLUueeeBq69yYSV9bwGwdUb50knP0AD0182zVUfLRfiNjWowKRgwgM9u-801R7eunANxHVcZZ7iaN-m9aBLu_yWSlWmozOdmYB-M36owLipQZE569oRnafVN31V8-Gpzh00HPpkjD_gOKaXd_fGFfP0DU9ln06jefHwi70k0W3GL17_J_0MpDHscz0e7efiGOJ9IqOU_cp7FX_LWuiFBbjEg4eV9PIVwnD7EhtH70Fr_QBCQTPEDPHpR24sJBb98WYdZbFJ3gpt0TLfOV-RshLgVYaTkdOVj6aQikw5roAIbahHlR_WimD5F6PLhG83c3qlsPfo2WzlKKfVHsPlzUe-vbk2o5NMjmRONo9_jvaKiZvIbw_R7lYXYOgHjFyHNvHY36O3P_s_TpaDC-Exy.ye5eRYbMaeEKHAhyHF_HUSQ0e9v-_zlpNMlo2jUoTdM&dib_tag=se&keywords=3%2B5%2F8%2Bhole%2Bsaw%2Bmilwaukee&qid=1741569801&sprefix=3%2B5%2F8%2Bhole%2Bsaw%2Bmilwaukee%2Caps%2C91&sr=8-4&th=1&tag=amznpcfx-20)
I can’t remember what size i used, but i do wish i went to Home Depot and bought one an 1/8” bigger like my gut told me i should.
I can’t remember what size i used, but i do wish i went to Home Depot and bought one an 1/8” bigger like my gut told me i should.
I’m almost positive I used a 3 1/2” hole saw.
I’m almost positive I used a 3 1/2” hole saw.
Well, now I'm confused since every DIY post in this thread indicates a 3 5/8" hole saw being used. Everyone's complaint is they wish their hole saw was deeper to help get through the wood.
Well, now I'm confused since every DIY post in this thread indicates a 3 5/8" hole saw being used. Everyone's complaint is they wish their hole saw was deeper to help get through the wood.
I’ll pull mine and post a photo. It was deep enough to get through both pieces of wood, but just a bit too small.
I’ll pull mine and post a photo. It was deep enough to get through both pieces of wood, but just a bit too small.
I’ll pull mine and post a photo. It was deep enough to get through both pieces of wood, but just a bit too small.
Milwaukee 3.5”. Had I used the same saw but 3 5/8 it would have been perfect.
Anyone have a recommendation for a 3 5/8" hole saw they thought worked really well for the cupholder upgrade? I would prefer a hole saw with an arbor for convenience.
After reading, I saw a lot of people mentioning they wish they used a different hole saw that was deeper. Is this one acceptable? (https://www.amazon.com/LENOX-Tools-Bi-Metal-Arbored-Technology/dp/B0054SBE4E/ref=sr_1_4?crid=D9MZDXDQBXHS&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.IXBUXcMbCYuRFvNBX0cIotNVlnSzkdfhMTDoXPCxfn83lLUueeeBq69yYSV9bwGwdUb50knP0AD0182zVUfLRfiNjWowKRgwgM9u-801R7eunANxHVcZZ7iaN-m9aBLu_yWSlWmozOdmYB-M36owLipQZE569oRnafVN31V8-Gpzh00HPpkjD_gOKaXd_fGFfP0DU9ln06jefHwi70k0W3GL17_J_0MpDHscz0e7efiGOJ9IqOU_cp7FX_LWuiFBbjEg4eV9PIVwnD7EhtH70Fr_QBCQTPEDPHpR24sJBb98WYdZbFJ3gpt0TLfOV-RshLgVYaTkdOVj6aQikw5roAIbahHlR_WimD5F6PLhG83c3qlsPfo2WzlKKfVHsPlzUe-vbk2o5NMjmRONo9_jvaKiZvIbw_R7lYXYOgHjFyHNvHY36O3P_s_TpaDC-Exy.ye5eRYbMaeEKHAhyHF_HUSQ0e9v-_zlpNMlo2jUoTdM&dib_tag=se&keywords=3%2B5%2F8%2Bhole%2Bsaw%2Bmilwaukee&qid=1741569801&sprefix=3%2B5%2F8%2Bhole%2Bsaw%2Bmilwaukee%2Caps%2C91&sr=8-4&th=1&tag=amznpcfx-20)
That is the one I used and have done two table upgrades based on info in this thread.
That is the one I used and have done two table upgrades based on info in this thread.
3.5 or 3 5/8?
3.5 or 3 5/8?
Milwaukee 3.5”. Had I used the same saw but 3 5/8 it would have been perfect.
Thanks so much for checking! 3 5/8 it is!
That is the one I used and have done two table upgrades based on info in this thread.
Perfect. That's the one I saw earlier. And you thought it was deep enough for your tables?
Lastly, based on the info in this thread, would you add anything after doing two installs? I'm about to do four tables, so want to make sure I have ALL the facts from the people that have gone through this.
I did not need a mandrel so I used this one. Confirmed 3 5/8" worked great.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ESWHJNW?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1 (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ESWHJNW?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1&tag=amznpcfx-20)
What didn't work so great was my cordless drill/driver. I wound up getting a corded drill (nothing too fancy - $80 dewalt @ home depot). Using the corded drill, the saw went through like butter.
I want to add that if any of my peeps in the Boston area want to upgrade their cupholders for the price of a beer or two, I have the hole saw, drill and template!
For what it’s worth I played on a Barrington for the first time last week. I have to say it’s pretty nice. Obviously the pre-printed topper is crap but that’s obviously replaceable
Haven't seen this topper before. Appear's it's a half inch short in length. Video doesn't look like it is laying flat.
https://www.amazon.com/Feltectors-C...=1742508245&sprefix=poker+mat,aps,154&sr=8-47 (https://www.amazon.com/Feltectors-Carrying-Non-Slip-Players-Blackjack/dp/B0BQN7S5WM/ref=sr_1_47?crid=L13CJSHX3MHQ&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.2-hDD6TL-LzVEDsnRDjiJ5BJSC4jFa7BBiFvNoLNMR-ffkTv-atna2otufill6uhSztwibvuknnPzzzjxAE7UwxR-otz_m6qUnbaHx8Zc_8ULf-cOQbQwvTxmSoDoEon7unaW5X6YIwpzy3UJcaLNR6geAzSD-w0zD3f2Vi62Ytjh7HBZ6m9zvy_kuHkMgqrVZEOyXMBUimKMoozDlEeFDEWxbQTtEMD3-OZNWDbNR8_yKqiQondxGh3cgKXkkO76hei68s0SWvTQ7gFx8R21CJNZNONvIWNfTM6bJdrNF_6Fls97MaKOpmDyvErWPf6KnzTyRpqiIhNIl86gYKlcx9am0K2sTYuur7_VPFks_BQoeNLKeFWIVkScQsbBA3PUSErK8Qi_EjtAljc0zwxeHC7vTXhDiIHj9bayAC5EUlFDtHll1MWYGNXjZ8RmUfK.qt0Jhi5GhUBnruC1kHyjfwoZjq4va2rc0pmTtiLXrzw&dib_tag=se&keywords=poker+mat&qid=1742508245&sprefix=poker+mat%2Caps%2C154&sr=8-47&tag=amznpcfx-20)
Haven't seen this topper before. Appear's it's a half inch short in length. Video doesn't look like it is laying flat.
https://www.amazon.com/Feltectors-Carrying-Non-Slip-Players-Blackjack/dp/B0BQN7S5WM/ref=sr_1_47?crid=L13CJSHX3MHQ&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.2-hDD6TL-LzVEDsnRDjiJ5BJSC4jFa7BBiFvNoLNMR-ffkTv-atna2otufill6uhSztwibvuknnPzzzjxAE7UwxR-otz_m6qUnbaHx8Zc_8ULf-cOQbQwvTxmSoDoEon7unaW5X6YIwpzy3UJcaLNR6geAzSD-w0zD3f2Vi62Ytjh7HBZ6m9zvy_kuHkMgqrVZEOyXMBUimKMoozDlEeFDEWxbQTtEMD3-OZNWDbNR8_yKqiQondxGh3cgKXkkO76hei68s0SWvTQ7gFx8R21CJNZNONvIWNfTM6bJdrNF_6Fls97MaKOpmDyvErWPf6KnzTyRpqiIhNIl86gYKlcx9am0K2sTYuur7_VPFks_BQoeNLKeFWIVkScQsbBA3PUSErK8Qi_EjtAljc0zwxeHC7vTXhDiIHj9bayAC5EUlFDtHll1MWYGNXjZ8RmUfK.qt0Jhi5GhUBnruC1kHyjfwoZjq4va2rc0pmTtiLXrzw&dib_tag=se&keywords=poker+mat&qid=1742508245&sprefix=poker+mat,aps,154&sr=8-47 (https://www.amazon.com/Feltectors-Carrying-Non-Slip-Players-Blackjack/dp/B0BQN7S5WM/ref=sr_1_47?crid=L13CJSHX3MHQ&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.2-hDD6TL-LzVEDsnRDjiJ5BJSC4jFa7BBiFvNoLNMR-ffkTv-atna2otufill6uhSztwibvuknnPzzzjxAE7UwxR-otz_m6qUnbaHx8Zc_8ULf-cOQbQwvTxmSoDoEon7unaW5X6YIwpzy3UJcaLNR6geAzSD-w0zD3f2Vi62Ytjh7HBZ6m9zvy_kuHkMgqrVZEOyXMBUimKMoozDlEeFDEWxbQTtEMD3-OZNWDbNR8_yKqiQondxGh3cgKXkkO76hei68s0SWvTQ7gFx8R21CJNZNONvIWNfTM6bJdrNF_6Fls97MaKOpmDyvErWPf6KnzTyRpqiIhNIl86gYKlcx9am0K2sTYuur7_VPFks_BQoeNLKeFWIVkScQsbBA3PUSErK8Qi_EjtAljc0zwxeHC7vTXhDiIHj9bayAC5EUlFDtHll1MWYGNXjZ8RmUfK.qt0Jhi5GhUBnruC1kHyjfwoZjq4va2rc0pmTtiLXrzw&dib_tag=se&keywords=poker+mat&qid=1742508245&sprefix=poker+mat%2Caps%2C154&sr=8-47&tag=amznpcfx-20)
isn't that just a copy of the (horrendous) barrington default graphics? why would anyone buy this?
isn't that just a copy of the (horrendous) barrington default graphics? why would anyone buy this?
Is. Someone who doesn't know about PCF and wants a cheap upgrade (hides crease, cards slide much better) might be a buyer.
Anyone have a preference for a diffuser?
I did a diffuser mod even before I knew this thread existed. I wouldn’t bother with it if I were you. There isn’t enough room between the LEDs and the diffuser to actually diffuse it enough to make much of a difference. On mine you can still see the individual LEDs, it’s just slightly dimmer now. I ordered a dimmer off Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/?tag=amznpcfx-20) that should arrive tomorrow but if I were to do it all again I’d just get the COB LED strip.
I did a diffuser mod even before I knew this thread existed. I wouldn’t bother with it if I were you. There isn’t enough room between the LEDs and the diffuser to actually diffuse it enough to make much of a difference. On mine you can still see the individual LEDs, it’s just slightly dimmer now. I ordered a dimmer off Amazon that should arrive tomorrow but if I were to do it all again I’d just get the COB LED strip.
Dimmer makes a huge difference! You won’t regret it if you are going to play with the lights in.
Dimmer makes a huge difference! You won’t regret it if you are going to play with the lights in.
Does your dimmer actually dim or just slightly dim and then off?
Mostly dim and then off. When I break out the table next time I’ll take a few photos at the various levels. It’s good enough quality and truly makes a big difference to my players. At full strength nobody likes it. At a very low setting everyone likes it a lot. Almost always gets “ahhhh there it is” each time I turn them on. Lol.
I have been meaning to upgrade the lights on my two Barrington tables for a long while now. I actually ordered all the parts about a year ago and have just been putting it off. With our league's Main Event Championship tournament coming up, I wanted to finally get the new lights up and running.
I went with the natural white COD lights instead of the warm white. I actually ordered two sets of the warm white that I still have in the packaging.
This was not as difficult as I thought it would be. I found it easier to pull the new lights through the hole after i cut the old LED lights out. On the first table I attached the new lights over the old LED strip. On the second table, I just pulled the old lights completely off and attached the new ones in their place. I think I would just rip any future LED strips off if I do any more tables down the road.
The first two pics are of the first table that I went over the old LED Strip.
This is the second table that I pulled the old strip off. Really not much of a difference visually. I just like that they sit a little further back under the rail by a tiny bit.
Very nice!
I have been meaning to upgrade the lights on my two Barrington tables for a long while now. I actually ordered all the parts about a year ago and have just been putting it off. With our league's Main Event Championship tournament coming up, I wanted to finally get the new lights up and running.
I went with the natural white COD lights instead of the warm white. I actually ordered two sets of the warm white that I still have in the packaging.
This was not as difficult as I thought it would be. I found it easier to pull the new lights through the hole after i cut the old LED lights out. On the first table I attached the new lights over the old LED strip. On the second table, I just pulled the old lights completely off and attached the new ones in their place. I think I would just rip any future LED strips off if I do any more tables down the road.
The first two pics are of the first table that I went over the old LED Strip.
View attachment 1490912 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1490912/)View attachment 1490913 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1490913/)
This is the second table that I pulled the old strip off. Really not much of a difference visually. I just like that they sit a little further back under the rail by a tiny bit.
View attachment 1490914 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1490914/)
Looks great! Are the COB connectors you used available on Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/?tag=amznpcfx-20)? I want to make sure I get the right ones.
Looks great! Are the COB connectors you used available on Amazon? I want to make sure I get the right ones.
I did order my connectors from Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/?tag=amznpcfx-20) just over a year ago. It looks like that particular set of connectors are not available anymore. I'm sure there are others just like them. Here is the link that I used, which I found earlier on this thread.
https://a.co/d/brmMjg5 (https://a.co/d/brmMjg5?tag=amznpcfx-20)
I actually just used butt splices to connect the wires to the power connectors. It seemed much more sturdy to do it that way. The connectors that the kit came with were kind of weak. I could easily pull the wires out of them with a simple tug. I wanted to make sure it is not going to come apart down the road if I lug the table around every now and then.
[deleted]
Is anyone still seeing good deals on the LED Barrington at Costco? I’m not having much luck locally (Western NY). Should I just pull the trigger on this Walmart LED table for $249?
And just to confirm- they are pretty much the same, but the Costco one would just have the extra topper?
Is anyone still seeing good deals on the LED Barrington at Costco? I’m not having much luck locally (Western NY). Should I just pull the trigger on this Walmart LED table for $249?
And just to confirm- they are pretty much the same, but the Costco one would just have the extra topper?
Mine hasn’t had any locally in months. They were on sale last month but not currently.
As for them being the same I believe the Walmart one is 15 pounds heavier so something is different.
Is anyone still seeing good deals on the LED Barrington at Costco? I’m not having much luck locally (Western NY). Should I just pull the trigger on this Walmart LED table for $249?
And just to confirm- they are pretty much the same, but the Costco one would just have the extra topper?
I think Costco put them on clearance and ended carrying them.
The Costco one is basically the same as the LED version Barrington, not the original, which is a bit lighter.
The difference between them is that the Costco one had a button to change the lights to one of 4 colors, the LED table is just blue. Also, there’s 3 toppers, one for blackjack, pai gow etc.
Other than that, the construction is the same for both.
I think Costco put them on clearance and ended carrying them.
The Costco one is basically the same as the LED version Barrington, not the original, which is a bit lighter.
The difference between them is that the Costco one had a button to change the lights to one of 4 colors, the LED table is just blue. Also, there’s 3 toppers, one for blackjack, pai gow etc.
Other than that, the construction is the same for both.
And the 15 pound difference? I thought the Costco one was MDF so heavier, but that is compared to non-LED Barrington.
And the 15 pound difference? I thought the Costco one was MDF so heavier, but that is compared to non-LED Barrington.
The LED one is heavier than the regular Barrington. I was under the impression that the LED and Costco one were both the same weight (minus a few toppers)
The LED one is heavier than the regular Barrington. I was under the impression that the LED and Costco one were both the same weight (minus a few toppers)
I am just going by the sites. Walmart says 100 pounds and Costco says 85 (LED to LED)
I think the Costco table is the only one that comes with the carrying/storage cover as well? I see no mention (or picture) of it in the Walmart listing.
I think the Costco table is the only one that comes with the carrying/storage cover as well? I see no mention (or picture) of it in the Walmart listing.
Yea I believe that’s true, but I’ve also read some criticism of the quality of the bag/zipper.
Found this in the app, then located what I think was the single one in the warehouse between a rack of kids' clothes and a box of squishmallows. Felt like it was too good to pass up at this price.
Big thanks to all the advise in this thread finished my upgrade! (Still have to attach a power source to the bottom so it doesn’t have to be plugged into the wall but that should be easy.)
Here are before and after pics with a topper from @rjdev7 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/1014/)
Big thanks to all the advise in this thread finished my upgrade! (Still have to attach a power source to the bottom so it doesn’t have to be plugged into the wall but that should be easy.)
Here are before and after pics with a topper from @rjdev7 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/1014/)
View attachment 1496600 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1496600/)View attachment 1496601 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1496601/)View attachment 1496602 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1496602/)
can you send a link to those colored cup holders? Looks great!
Big thanks to all the advise in this thread finished my upgrade! (Still have to attach a power source to the bottom so it doesn’t have to be plugged into the wall but that should be easy.)
Here are before and after pics with a topper from @rjdev7 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/1014/)
View attachment 1496600 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1496600/)View attachment 1496601 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1496601/)View attachment 1496602 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1496602/)
Did you reupholster the rails or is it a new table?
can you send a link to those colored cup holders? Looks great!
https://a.co/d/hx7iw9A (https://a.co/d/hx7iw9A?tag=amznpcfx-20)
Did you reupholster the rails or is it a new table?
Reupholstered the rail plus added a second piece of plywood below the original a half inch smaller on the inside to add depth and so there would be space for the lights. Plus then the lights would be recessed under a lip and the topper would tuck under the lip as well.
https://a.co/d/hx7iw9A (https://a.co/d/hx7iw9A?tag=amznpcfx-20)
Reupholstered the rail plus added a second piece of plywood below the original a half inch smaller on the inside to add depth and so there would be space for the lights. Plus then the lights would be recessed under a lip and the topper would tuck under the lip as well.
Looks awesome. Well done!
Anyone know if these slide in cup holders fit under a Barrington rail? The non-LED variety.
Anyone know if these slide in cup holders fit under a Barrington rail? The non-LED variety.
View attachment 1497957 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1497957/)
Nope
isn't that just a copy of the (horrendous) barrington default graphics? why would anyone buy this?
Hi , I made this mat and I am glad to know why it is not selling well! I would love to discuss this further ( private DM ?)
Hi , I made this mat and I am glad to know why it is not selling well! I would love to discuss this further ( private DM ?)
because is is the same as the default graphics on the barrington table that everyone is trying to cover. aside from hiding the seam, it defeats the rest of the purpose of a topper.
@Azphrodite (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/15418/) :tup:
Hi , I made this mat and I am glad to know why it is not selling well! I would love to discuss this further ( private DM ?)
I’m going off memory, but I recall my three main objections being:
Weird bright blue color (a medium/dark green is my pref. Grey/black is fine too)
Card outlines on table are spaced really far apart. I prefer them uniformly spaced, or not there at all.
The “Flop” “Turn” “River” text. Anyone who owns a poker table does not need giant text telling them this. It’s tacky.
A simpler mat design would probably sell better.
Costco Barrington owner here. Recently swapped out the cupholders using @RadicusScout (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/10148/) instructions. I ended up having difficulty marking the center point given there was about 1 1/2” from the level of the arm rail to the wood underneath the previous cupholder so I made up a little paper template out of a recipe card that was 2 3/4” in diameter (same as the existing hole) and then cut a small hole 1/4” from the center where I wanted the new center to be and marked it with a sharpie. I took the template out and did the same to each cupholder hole and then drilled with a 1/4” drill bit for the pilot hole.
I also added a LED diffuser strip over the LEDs (wouldn’t recommend) and added a dimmer that I got off Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/?tag=amznpcfx-20).
Just waiting on my topper from @rjdev7 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/1014/) and then I’ll be cooking with gas.
And look what showed up today…
Sizing was spot on for my table. Ordered 74 1/4” X 32 1/2” with un-sewn edges.
Putting it into play tomorrow night.
because is is the same as the default graphics on the barrington table that everyone is trying to cover. aside from hiding the seam, it defeats the rest of the purpose of a topper.
OK Thanks
And look what showed up today…
View attachment 1499182 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1499182/)
Sizing was spot on for my table. Ordered 74 1/4” X 32 1/2” with un-sewn edges.
Putting it into play tomorrow night.
Hey I got the same exact topper and table lol.
Can you link the exact diffuser you got for your leds and how is the topper with the leds on thanks!
Hey I got the same exact topper and table lol.
Can you link the exact diffuser you got for your leds and how is the topper with the leds on thanks!
I got the diffuser from a Canadian company. Surprisingly I had a hard time finding such a product but I’m sure there are similar out there if you look hard enough. Most of what I had found came with the metal channel and other hardware for mounting LEDs that I didn’t need. Basically it’s meant to be used for LED strip lighting for under cabinets and applications like that. Here’s the link so you can get a closer look:
https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/sho...zAXW_zOQzYIVsdkvqe7SXpTpnGzxCnVW&item=00U4237 (https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/hardware/lighting/channels-and-diffusers/101524-diffusers-for-led-tape-lighting-surface-mount-channels?srsltid=AfmBOopTJAfwJ5PdEtWF4ivnzAXW_zOQzYIVsdkvqe7SXpTpnGzxCnVW&item=00U4237)
The diffuser itself has two “legs” or tabs on the side that run the length of it and its bendable so it was able to bend with the curve of the table no problem. The diffuser didn’t fit under the gap between the arm rail and the table top so I ended up cutting off one tab the whole length of it and it was then able to be pushed in place and held in by tension between the felt and the underside of the arm rail. Looks super clean.
The reason I wouldn’t recommend it is because you can still clearly see the individual LED bulbs and it didn’t dim or diffuse them as much as I had expected. So personally I think using just the dimmer would suffice.
As for the topper, everyone at my game was super impressed. It didn’t block the LEDs at all if that’s your concern and everyone liked how the cards slid across it when dealing. I’ll definitely be ordering a second one soon.
Here’s an action shot
I got the diffuser from a Canadian company. Surprisingly I had a hard time finding such a product but I’m sure there are similar out there if you look hard enough. Most of what I had found came with the metal channel and other hardware for mounting LEDs that I didn’t need. Basically it’s meant to be used for LED strip lighting for under cabinets and applications like that. Here’s the link so you can get a closer look:
https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/sho...zAXW_zOQzYIVsdkvqe7SXpTpnGzxCnVW&item=00U4237 (https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/hardware/lighting/channels-and-diffusers/101524-diffusers-for-led-tape-lighting-surface-mount-channels?srsltid=AfmBOopTJAfwJ5PdEtWF4ivnzAXW_zOQzYIVsdkvqe7SXpTpnGzxCnVW&item=00U4237)
The diffuser itself has two “legs” or tabs on the side that run the length of it and its bendable so it was able to bend with the curve of the table no problem. The diffuser didn’t fit under the gap between the arm rail and the table top so I ended up cutting off one tab the whole length of it and it was then able to be pushed in place and held in by tension between the felt and the underside of the arm rail. Looks super clean.
The reason I wouldn’t recommend it is because you can still clearly see the individual LED bulbs and it didn’t dim or diffuse them as much as I had expected. So personally I think using just the dimmer would suffice.
As for the topper, everyone at my game was super impressed. It didn’t block the LEDs at all if that’s your concern and everyone liked how the cards slid across it when dealing. I’ll definitely be ordering a second one soon.
Here’s an action shot
View attachment 1500165 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1500165/)
Awesome!! Thanks for the insights, I’ve seen that shuffler around where’s it from?
Awesome!! Thanks for the insights, I’ve seen that shuffler around where’s it from?
Just a cheap Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/?tag=amznpcfx-20) one. Anyone on PCF would say unless you’re dropping $6K on a used Deckmate then don’t bother with an automatic shuffler. I don’t know all the science behind it as to how good it actually shuffles but we’ve been using it the last couple of games just to get the shuffling started with a spare deck and then switch the deck out. We usually give the deck one more manual shuffle and a few cuts and it’s good to go.
Here’s the link
https://a.co/d/3Sj6SvB (https://a.co/d/3Sj6SvB?tag=amznpcfx-20)
Has anyone tried covering the original cup holders with some sort of lid or cap rather than replacing them?
I don’t allow drinks at the table (we use small side tables), so I’d rather have no cup holders at all… but I don’t want to go to the work and expense of removing the holders, fill in the spot with foam and re-covering the rails with fresh vinyl.
I’m imagining some sort of coaster, snap on silicone lid, something like a mini manhole cover, etc. I’d rather have a decent looking (and immovable) cover than an exposed/open/empty cup holder.
These things from Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/?tag=amznpcfx-20) are kind of what I’m thinking, but not exactly:
https://a.co/d/dVYMrpY (https://a.co/d/dVYMrpY?tag=amznpcfx-20)
https://a.co/d/d19u55p (https://a.co/d/d19u55p?tag=amznpcfx-20)
Any brainstorming solutions or ideas out there?
Has anyone tried covering the original cup holders with some sort of lid or cap rather than replacing them?
I don’t allow drinks at the table (we use small side tables), so I’d rather have no cup holders at all… but I don’t want to go to the work and expense of removing the holders, fill in the spot with foam and re-covering the rails with fresh vinyl.
I’m imagining some sort of coaster, snap on silicone lid, something like a mini manhole cover, etc. I’d rather have a decent looking (and immovable) cover than an exposed/open/empty cup holder.
These things from Amazon are kind of what I’m thinking, but not exactly:
https://a.co/d/dVYMrpY (https://a.co/d/dVYMrpY?tag=amznpcfx-20)
https://a.co/d/d19u55p (https://a.co/d/d19u55p?tag=amznpcfx-20)
Any brainstorming solutions or ideas out there?
The rails do come off but for me the cupholders were SUPER glued to the wood of the table, you can probably rewrap the rails over the old vinyl and fill the cup holders with some type of foam?
Thanks @idkWhenToFold (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/21207/) , that’s one suggestion I can consider, and I’m not opposed to doing some “reupholstering” work in the rails if it comes down to that.
If possible, I’d prefer to go even simpler and maybe find some sort of “cap” or “lid” I can put on/over the top of each cup holder. Maybe something that snaps in place? I think I’ll have to break out my ruler and take measurements and then do some trial or error.
Anyone else have additional ideas or suggestions?
3D printing a cap is probably the most sleek.
You could also just glue leather coasters to the top of foam cylinders cut to sit flush and put em in the cup holders. Mileage may vary on how that looks.
Thanks @TwinChameleon (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/21154/) , those are both good suggestions. I don’t have access to a 3d printer but I can find someone who does… Or maybe someone here on the forum?
I’m also digging the “capped insert” idea as an another, simpler, solution.
if i decide not to install deeper cup holders in mine, I may ask my friend to 3d model caps. If so, I’ll share it here.
I'm interested in caps of some sort if anyone comes up with an option!
Any recommendations for table cover for my Barrington? I’m looking for something with an elastic band, similar to pool table covers.
I keep the table up, ready for action. (Pictured is my current 3 piece cover system)
I’m hoping to find something as well. For now i just turn the topper upside down.
I wonder if you can pay a local seamstress/tailor to just sew something for you.
I have 2 BBO's we play on - an 8 seater round and a 10 seater oval. Tables are in areas with a lot of foot traffic, and I wanted some really heavy duty covers to keep people from messing with them. I searched around and ended up ordering 2 custom "outdoor furniture covers" from Sealskin Covers- in their "Custom Elite" line. These things are bullet proof. For the Round table, I ordered it 56" by 4" deep, with their "drawstring" option. it drapes over the table and covers well underneath the rail. For our Oval, I ordered it 96" long, by 46" wide, with a "curvature width" of 68" - also 4" deep, with the drawstring tie down option. They are jet black with a very rubbery feel to the material. FULLY waterproof, and thick. This might be overkill for your table, but for where ours are located (locker room area), they are awesome!!!
I have 2 BBO's we play on - an 8 seater round and a 10 seater oval. Tables are in areas with a lot of foot traffic, and I wanted some really heavy duty covers to keep people from messing with them. I searched around and ended up ordering 2 custom "outdoor furniture covers" from Sealskin Covers- in their "Custom Elite" line. These things are bullet proof. For the Round table, I ordered it 56" by 4" deep, with their "drawstring" option. it drapes over the table and covers well underneath the rail. For our Oval, I ordered it 96" long, by 46" wide, with a "curvature width" of 68" - also 4" deep, with the drawstring tie down option. They are jet black with a very rubbery feel to the material. FULLY waterproof, and thick. This might be overkill for your table, but for where ours are located (locker room area), they are awesome!!!
Woah those are some serious covers! Probably cost more than my barrington table which is by definition an overkill haha
I just fold laundry on my table when I’m not playing poker so now that I’m thinking about it, my plastic and tablecloth covers are actually probably all the protection I need. I just have a sickness and am always looking for new accessories for my poker room, even ones I don’t need
Probably cost more than my barrington table
Sir, you are on PCF. By joining, you agree to overspending on stuff you do not need.
I got my Barrington for $150 but have spent well over $150 modifying it.
Sir, you are on PCF. By joining, you agree to overspending on stuff you do not need.
I got my Barrington for $150 but have spent well over $150 modifying it.
You’re so right— quick, someone send me the link to the custom elite line pro max mole skin table covers that will complete me!
You’re so right— quick, someone send me the link to the custom elite line pro max mole skin table covers that will complete me!
I just ordered one. $107 shipped and all in.
Looks like you've already attempted a sheet, but have you tried a fitted sheet? I've bee using a cheap twin size fitted sheet on one of mine for years. Not going to have the protection a pool table cover would, but it keeps the dust off and are easy to wash themselves.
I just ordered one. $107 shipped and all in.
Looks like you've already attempted a sheet, but have you tried a fitted sheet? I've bee using a cheap twin size fitted sheet on one of mine for years. Not going to have the protection a pool table cover would, but it keeps the dust off and are easy to wash themselves.
I’ll have to give this a try, thanks!
I have 2 BBO's we play on - an 8 seater round and a 10 seater oval. Tables are in areas with a lot of foot traffic, and I wanted some really heavy duty covers to keep people from messing with them. I searched around and ended up ordering 2 custom "outdoor furniture covers" from Sealskin Covers- in their "Custom Elite" line. These things are bullet proof. For the Round table, I ordered it 56" by 4" deep, with their "drawstring" option. it drapes over the table and covers well underneath the rail. For our Oval, I ordered it 96" long, by 46" wide, with a "curvature width" of 68" - also 4" deep, with the drawstring tie down option. They are jet black with a very rubbery feel to the material. FULLY waterproof, and thick. This might be overkill for your table, but for where ours are located (locker room area), they are awesome!!!
No pics?
Even the LED version at $199 is a good deal.
I have the led version. Just bought this one for table 2.
Don't forget to add the Allstate plan to it. Worth every penny. I've purchased it for other stuff and the process is seamless should you need to use it.
Don't forget to add the Allstate plan to it. Worth every penny. I've purchased it for other stuff and the process is seamless should you need to use it.
Maybe this is sarcasm and I'm an idiot. But I'm genuinely curious, what are you anticipating happening to your poker table that you need insurance on it?
Maybe this is sarcasm and I'm an idiot. But I'm genuinely curious, what are you anticipating happening to your poker table that you need insurance on it?
I’m guessing he’s a buffalo bills fan?
Maybe this is sarcasm and I'm an idiot. But I'm genuinely curious, what are you anticipating happening to your poker table that you need insurance on it?
I have three boys that are thirteen and under. My folding table from Costco looks like Picasso got a hold of it. I’ve come home from work with a fishing rod hanging from my willow tree. Need I say more?
I have three boys that are thirteen and under. My folding table from Costco looks like Picasso got a hold of it. I’ve come home from work with a fishing rod hanging from my willow tree. Need I say more?
Makes sense!
In Portugal, we don't have a Barrington poker table, and a custom topper is a bit expensive due to import taxes and shipping.
But we can buy a Vevor poker table and a standard topper and cut it to the exact size of the playing surface... and this is the final result!
I’m guessing he’s a buffalo bills fan?
Allstate won't sell insurance to Bills Mafia
Allstate won't sell insurance to Bills Mafia
No they won't, and even though we are a Falcons household, my children behave like Bills Mafia when they're high on sugar.
Anyone else have issues with sloping near the center of the table? Sitting in the center while dealing, the top two or three cards always slide off the top of the deck. Table was bought new and has been used for a total of 4 home games so far, no outrageous bills Mafia body slams have occurred either.
Anyone else have issues with sloping near the center of the table? Sitting in the center while dealing, the top two or three cards always slide off the top of the deck. Table was bought new and has been used for a total of 4 home games so far, no outrageous bills Mafia body slams have occurred either.
I haven’t myself but the table should have a turnbuckle underneath and you can adjust the slope by tightening or loosening the turnbuckle.
Mine starting sloping after 3 games. As @horseshoez (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/5314/) stated there is a tightening device underneath the table. I Haven’t tried it yet to see if it resolves issue. Next game will try and see if it solves the problem.
Yes, that’s what the cable is for under the table. Since there is no other support for a split table, the cable is what keeps it from collapsing in. Set that turnbuckle so that the table is perfectly flat.
Also, for those who don’t like the faint crease that appears when the topper is laid on the felt, I recommend placing thin sheets of poster board down the center of the table. Just make sure they don’t reach the edges, so they remain hidden when the topper is on top.
This price hasn't been around in a LONG time...
https://www.walmart.com/ip/10-Playe...7?classType=REGULAR&athbdg=L1800&from=/search (https://www.walmart.com/ip/10-Player-Poker-Table-No-Assembly-Required-by-Barrington-Billiards-Company/55465427?classType=REGULAR&athbdg=L1800&from=/search)
thanks for the heads up! Pulled the trigger, $162 shipped all in with taxes. Heck of a deal.
thanks for the heads up! Pulled the trigger, $162 shipped all in with taxes. Heck of a deal.
You bet. I have like 3 different apps monitor its pricing :ROFL: :ROFLMAO:
Also, for those who don’t like the faint crease that appears when the topper is laid on the felt, I recommend placing thin sheets of poster board down the center of the table. Just make sure they don’t reach the edges, so they remain hidden when the topper is on top.
I always wondered if those silicone gap fillers that they make for kitchen countertops would work for the gap under a topper:
I always wondered if those silicone gap fillers that they make for kitchen countertops would work for the gap under a topper:
View attachment 1534425 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1534425/)
View attachment 1534426 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1534426/)
Might be able to use it. Something tells me it might be visible and push the topper up too high.
This price hasn't been around in a LONG time...
https://www.walmart.com/ip/10-Playe...7?classType=REGULAR&athbdg=L1800&from=/search (https://www.walmart.com/ip/10-Player-Poker-Table-No-Assembly-Required-by-Barrington-Billiards-Company/55465427?classType=REGULAR&athbdg=L1800&from=/search)
@JJDiamonds (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/18521/) just in case you’re in the market for another table. I just bought one it arrived today. $162 all in and delivered!
Just so people know the price has gone back up already
@JJDiamonds (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/18521/) just in case you’re in the market for another table. I just bought one it arrived today. $162 all in and delivered!
I saw the sale price and thought about it... I'm just going to keep looking on Offerup and Facebook Marketplace for a good deal. Thanks for the heads up!
You bet. I have like 3 different apps monitor its pricing :ROFL: :ROFLMAO:
Nuts, I missed it! What apps do you use? Checking prices randomly isn't working for me 😅
On the phone, I use an app called Keepa. There is another one called https://camelcamelcamel.com/ which is web based and doesn't have an app but still works just as well. ShopSavvy is a good app but it's mostly for price comparisons rather than being alerted to a price drop for specific items.
Overall, Keepa is the way to go.
On the phone, I use an app called Keepa. There is another one called https://camelcamelcamel.com/ which is web based and doesn't have an app but still works just as well. ShopSavvy is a good app but it's mostly for price comparisons rather than being alerted to a price drop for specific items.
Overall, Keepa is the way to go.
Keepa says it’s an Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/?tag=amznpcfx-20) price tracker?
Keepa says it’s an Amazon price tracker?
Correct, just for Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/?tag=amznpcfx-20). Google Chrome has a built in tracker for it as well. Not sure how long it’s been around but I’ve been using that as well.
Mine starting sloping after 3 games. As @horseshoez (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/5314/) stated there is a tightening device underneath the table. I Haven’t tried it yet to see if it resolves issue. Next game will try and see if it solves the problem.
I’ve had to tighten mine up a couple times. Super easy and effective.
I think the turnbuckles might just loosen some from folding and unfolding. So it’s best to tighten them after every setup/takedown. I put mine up after every game, so it moves about once a week.
Correct, just for Amazon. Google Chrome has a built in tracker for it as well. Not sure how long it’s been around but I’ve been using that as well.
So Keepa amazon (https://www.amazon.com/?tag=amznpcfx-20) price tracker will also track Walmart prices? Thanks for you input BTW
I always wondered if those silicone gap fillers that they make for kitchen countertops would work for the gap under a topper:
View attachment 1534425 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1534425/)
View attachment 1534426 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1534426/)
@Newenne (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/12859/)
I'm happy with two table toppers. Don't notice at all
So Keepa amazon price tracker will also track Walmart prices? Thanks for you input BTW
No, for Walmart I use the Google Chrome price tracker that's built into the browser. However, what will happen sometimes is that when Keepa shows you a price drop on Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/?tag=amznpcfx-20), sometimes the Walmart price will have also dropped as a result.
Nuts, I missed it! What apps do you use? Checking prices randomly isn't working for me 😅
I use PCF.
Big shout out to @greedyintern (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/17235/) , just did the LED mod. I used a different brand but it was a COB LED.
The hardest part for me was routing the LED from the top of the table to the bottom. Instead of a dimmer, I installed a zigbee controller and I got a rechargeable wireless battery to power them. Now I can control the LEDs from my phone thru HomeKit.
I also installed the handles. Going to attempt the cupholder mod next.
This is awesome! Can you help me understand how you connected both light strips and the power pack? The photo is unclear and I am not seeing how online.
I finally took the plunge on replacing the horrible stock LED strips with COB lights!
It was nerve racking to peel off the old lights and figure out how to get the new ones set up, but learned some things along the way. This was a harder project than I expected because I didn’t have the right equipment at the first attempt to install. I would feel much more confident doing this project again after figuring it out.
Go slow with peeling off the old lights to avoid ripping any extra material.
Wait to pull adhesive backing off and make any extra cuts until placement of new light strip has been double checked. I have a centimeter of dark space (see if you can find it) because I didn’t confirm placement first before peeling off adhesives.
Start placing new LED strips on opposite side of the red power button/original power setup and make sure the cuts are as close to the fold gap as possible to ensure continuity.
The hardest part is threading the new LED strips through the existing holes where the lights connect under the table. Some super thin needle nose pliers may help.
Flipping the table on its side makes working on the underside of the table MUCH easier and helped avoid it collapsing (the legs did collapse on me when I tried the “slightly closed upright position”
Lights used: MIWISE COB LED Strip Light... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CLLJ2513?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CLLJ2513?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share&tag=amznpcfx-20)
Super easy to use solder-less connectors that I wish I would have bought first and saved me 2 hours of time. GXILEE 2 Pin 8mm Cob LED Strip... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09VKVR99Y?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09VKVR99Y?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share&tag=amznpcfx-20)
Dc power splitter 1 female-2 male cord https://a.co/d/8xPuYQr (https://a.co/d/8xPuYQr?tag=amznpcfx-20)
It looks awesome. Did you have a color temperature preference?
It looks awesome. Did you have a color temperature preference?
Thank you! I wanted a warm light and have it turned to the lowest possible brightness setting to avoid eye fatigue.
I’ve had to tighten mine up a couple times. Super easy and effective.
I think the turnbuckles might just loosen some from folding and unfolding. So it’s best to tighten them after every setup/takedown. I put mine up after every game, so it moves about once a week.
Hi
Is there any video of how to tighten or loosen that turnbuckle cable ? I’m not able to figure it out
Hi
Is there any video of how to tighten or loosen that turnbuckle cable ? I’m not able to figure it out
@ekricket (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/1555/) please help
First thanks to all those who posted their process and procedures and tools used.
Finally did the cup holder upgrade! A major improvement in usefulness. I used the Jumbo cup holders from Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/?tag=amznpcfx-20). And the Milwaukee hole saw. I used a hairdryer to loosen the glue to pop out the old cup holders. Then I drilled a pilot from above (moved in towards the table 1/4 inch to account for the size difference) and then flipped the table to cut with the hole saw from below. In the corners, you can see on the saw how it rubbed the leg poles. The power box had to be moved for drilling, but then went back to original location. Drilling from the bottom saved the vinyl.
I honestly don’t know how you guys are doing this in basements or apartments. The mess was pretty unbelievable and I did it in the driveway.
I use custom toppers from @rjdev7 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/1014/), so I am not pressured to change out the felt. I have different toppers for different sets.
Mud
Man just opened up my Barrington 10 person table and the rail / padding on one side is ~1 cm off! Whole point of getting this is not have to DIY anything other than getting a custom table topper xD. Tell me if im being OCD in being bothered by this lol
Is there any video of how to tighten or loosen that turnbuckle cable under the table ? I’m not able to figure it out
View attachment 1564874 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1564874/)
View attachment 1564875 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1564875/)
View attachment 1564876 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1564876/)
Thank you so much for this text!! Let me try this out, appreciate the help!
Finally got around to doing the upgrade. 6 down. 4 more to go.
Upgrade complete!
By the way, Walmart has raised the prices on the Barringtons.
View attachment 1564874 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1564874/)
View attachment 1564875 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1564875/)
View attachment 1564876 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1564876/)
Just seeing this sorry! I wouldn’t flip it over. With the table upright, start turning the turnbuckle one way.
If it helps level it, keep going.
If it doesn’t help, turn the turnbuckle the other way until the table is level to your liking.
If you are asking how to turn a turnbuckle, just grasp it and continuously twist it in the plane of the cables one way or the other to tighten or loosen it.
Most I've paid for a Barrington was $160 from Walmart. I also was part of the Wayfair (I think it was Wayfair) deal where they were listed for $90 with shipping. Crazy.
Just seeing this sorry! I wouldn’t flip it over. With the table upright, start turning the turnbuckle one way.
If it helps level it, keep going.
If it doesn’t help, turn the turnbuckle the other way until the table is level to your liking.
If you are asking how to turn a turnbuckle, just grasp it and continuously twist it in the plane of the cables one way or the other to tighten or loosen it.
Thank you so much, appreciate you getting back on this
By the way, Walmart has raised the prices on the Barringtons.
View attachment 1567605 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1567605/)
Wow. I remember getting mine for $99 with free shipping
Wow. I remember getting mine for $99 with free shipping
Yup, I think mine was $179 about 2 years ago
TBH, if I didn’t know better it’s still a great table for $399
Wow. I remember getting mine for $99 with free shipping
Good deal. I bought mine for $94.72
Yup, I think mine was $179 about 2 years ago
Mine from Walmart.com just a month ago was $250 shipped. Great value even at that price, sad to see it go up. Maybe Costco will have a restocked deal in the $300 range for the holidays.
The Barrington with LED lights at Walmart dropped back down to $299 today. Anyone's guess how long this price lasts.
They also have the one without LED lights for $249.
Amazon.ca seems to have a really great deal today. I assume this is the standard table where the felt can be adjusted? Does anyone have this version of the table?
The Barrington with LED lights at Walmart dropped back down to $299 today. Anyone's guess how long this price lasts.
They also have the one without LED lights for $249.
View attachment 1574225 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1574225/)
Nice, will get one of the two, do people tend to like the LED one more or find it annoying? Going to be getting an rjdev custom topper if it makes a difference.
Nice, will get one of the two, do people tend to like the LED one more or find it annoying? Going to be getting an rjdev custom topper if it makes a difference.
The LED one is preferable, as it has heavier duty legs and a thicker plywood deck. It adds 20 lbs to an already fairly heavy table, but I think it’s worth it. Even if you never use the LEDs, it’s worth the upgrade.
Amazon.ca seems to have a really great deal today. I assume this is the standard table where the felt can be adjusted? Does anyone have this version of the table?
View attachment 1574262 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1574262/)
I think that’s the standard Barrington, but that may be an older picture, not sure.
They had that blue felt a while back and have been producing the one with the brown felt for the last couple of years:
I would verify if considering.
The LED one is preferable, as it has heavier duty legs and a thicker plywood deck. It adds 20 lbs to an already fairly heavy table, but I think it’s worth it. Even if you never use the LEDs, it’s worth the upgrade.
I have the brown table, it is plenty sturdy. I debated this when I ordered but I'm glad I went with the lighter one, it's already just borderline too heavy for one person to set-up/collapse or move more than a few feet.
I believe the brown table is the same as the blue table. Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/?tag=amznpcfx-20) has the blue table (for $60 more) and it seems to match specs.
I also have the Brown table, it's plenty sturdy and plenty heavy for me.
I also have the Brown table, it's plenty sturdy and plenty heavy for me.
I have the brown table, it is plenty sturdy. I debated this when I ordered but I'm glad I went with the lighter one, it's already just borderline too heavy for one person to set-up/collapse or move more than a few feet.
I believe the brown table is the same as the blue table. Amazon has the blue table (for $60 more) and it seems to match specs.
The LED one is preferable, as it has heavier duty legs and a thicker plywood deck. It adds 20 lbs to an already fairly heavy table, but I think it’s worth it. Even if you never use the LEDs, it’s worth the upgrade.
Pros and cons to both, but as someone who has to set up and breakdown for every game, I find my non-LED “brown felt/black rail” version rock solid and at about the limit of what I can work with while also ensuring I don’t drop it or break it. That and a good overhead light suits my needs. I use this lamp from IKEA—$105 without the shade (I had one to use) or $130 with it (shade sold separately).
SEEKING CUP HOLDERS
As an aside, if anyone has some of the original “small/short” cup holders you want to sell, I’d be interested.
BLACK is preferred and came some models, but stainless is a solid second choice.
See my Wanted Ad here:
https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/10-original-barrington-table-cup-holders.136792/
Thanks for all the info everyone, went back and forth ended up going blue a few days ago for sturdiness tho would probably go brown if could do it over with what more recent posters have mentioned xD didn’t want to wait in case sale ended
Thanks for all the info everyone, went back and forth ended up going blue a few days ago for sturdiness tho would probably go brown if could do it over with what more recent posters have mentioned xD didn’t want to wait in case sale ended
Get a topper
Get a topper
Absolutely, waiting for it to come to measure before ordering from @rjdev7 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/1014/), not sure if that’s still relevant / saw it in older posts maybe when the measurement was changing but want to be sure
waiting for it to come to measure before ordering from @rjdev7, not sure if that’s still relevant / saw it in older posts maybe when the measurement was changing but want to be sure
Absolutely still relevant.
Man just opened up my Barrington 10 person table and the rail / padding on one side is ~1 cm off! Whole point of getting this is not have to DIY anything other than getting a custom table topper xD. Tell me if im being OCD in being bothered by this lol
Not OCD. I'd be steamed if it came brand new out of the box like that.
Not OCD. I'd be steamed if it came brand new out of the box like that.
Appreciate the confirmation lol. Ended up returning it with the next try arriving tomorrow., finger crossed
Walmart LED table back up to $399 today. No LED version is $349. Wow, lot's of price changes in a short time.
Walmart LED table back up to $399 today. No LED version is $349. Wow, lot's of price changes in a short time.
View attachment 1576856 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1576856/)
I haven't paid much attention since I picked one up last Christmas but thinking about another. What's the lowest the LED version has been in the last 6 months?
I haven't paid much attention since I picked one up last Christmas but thinking about another. What's the lowest the LED version has been in the last 6 months?
I think prices have been varying a lot recently. $399 now. $299 last week. Some posters got them for under $200 early in the year.
I think prices have been varying a lot recently. $399 now. $299 last week. Some posters got them for under $200 early in the year.
Thank you
Walmart LED table back up to $399 today. No LED version is $349. Wow, lot's of price changes in a short time.
Wait a couple of months. Prices typically get much better that time of year.
I think prices have been varying a lot recently. $399 now. $299 last week. Some posters got them for under $200 early in the year.
The last two years they came down a lot around black Friday, or thereafter. I would not be a buyer at these prices unless I really needed one stat!
Costco seems to be the best bet if you don't mind picking up a large item. They appear to get a couple of big shipments per year and are empty the rest of the time. I think the listed at like $250 and then drop down to $200 after a few weeks. I think some folks bought them for even less than that.
i picked up the LED table for $200 last november.
Costco seems to be the best bet if you don't mind picking up a large item. They appear to get a couple of big shipments per year and are empty the rest of the time. I think the listed at like $250 and then drop down to $200 after a few weeks. I think some folks bought them for even less than that.
The Barringtons at Costco were just offered during the holidays last year and were discounted steeply afterward. They weren't re-stocked either.
There is a slight possibilty that they will appear again this holiday season, but generally they switch things up from year to year.
I watch the Deals Guy on YouTube and when he was at Costco in one of his recent videos, you could see a table in the background so hopefully they will be back everywhere this year.
Has anyone replaced the rail on the barrington entirely and went to the cup holders that slide under the rail instead of being built into it? I have been considering this since I prefer the cupholders to not be in the rail but am on the fence and would love to see if someone else has done this.
Based on what I am reading in this thread, it sounds like the Barrington tables just had a sale about a month ago, which I sadly missed. Does anyone think it's likely that there will be a sale for Black Friday or Cyber Monday? I've been checking Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/?tag=amznpcfx-20)/Wal-Mart/Wayfair daily to check for sales on the Premium Charleston 10-player table.
If they don't go on sale by Cyber Monday, I'll probably just bite the bullet and buy it at full price in order to get it in time to replace the cupholders before I have friends/family over for a home game around the holidays.
5V LED
Thanks to @greedyintern (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/17235/), @RadicusScout (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/10148/), @dmoney (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/3698/), and others for the great cupholder and LED mod instructions.
https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/barrington-poker-table-thread.30910/post-2352520
https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/barrington-poker-table-thread.30910/post-2405037
Just finished mine and it turned out great thanks to those detailed instructions.
For the COB LED lights, I did make a minor change which I haven’t seen posted. In case anyone’s interested:
The earlier LED lights are 12V, as are the dimmer and power bank. I instead used a 5V LED strip and dimmer. I wanted 5V so I could use a standard power bank, like the kind to charge a cell phone. It didn’t appeal to me to have a dedicated 12V power bank just for the table….I don’t have any other devices needing the 12V and I already have multiple 5V power banks.
It turns out Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/?tag=amznpcfx-20) has many 5V LED cob strips to choose at very low price. In fact, they typically have a standard USB-A plug already attached to the strip. If you plug it into a standard 5V power bank, it works! It’s too bright of course, so a dimmer is needed. Many have a basic dimmer also built-in to that USB plug, making a very low cost solution. I tried it, and it works, though only providing 6 discrete steps of dimming from about 100% down to about 25%. I chose a 5v strip with just the plain USB plug (no dimmer) and added a separate 5V dimmer which allows continuous dimming from 100% down to 0% (off), so I can use it at about the 15-20% setting which I prefer for my eye comfort.
The 5V strip I used was 3 meters long, enough for half the table with about 20” extra. So I bought two (about $10 each). There is one available 5 meters long, but that is barely long enough, or maybe a hair short. Buying two pieces also means I get two USB plugs and don’t have to add COB strip connectors.
5V COB LED lights (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DZH99SWJ?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1&tag=amznpcfx-20)
5V Dimmer (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RP836LM?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1&tag=amznpcfx-20)
Male USB plug to bare wire cable (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CHVM39WL?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&tag=amznpcfx-20)
Female USB plug to bare wire cable (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CLSC8FHY?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&tag=amznpcfx-20) (Optional. Delete if willing to cut and strip wiring)
Pictures:
Finished table:
Final mounted dimmer hardware:
Hardware in testing mode: This is where I used the optional Female-USB-plug-to-bare-wire cable for convenience. This cable can be skipped if you simply cut the end of the LED strip near the strip’s USB plug, strip the wires, and mount them directly to the dimmer. I did that in the picture above (final mounting):
Comparison of original Barrington LED lights to the 5V cob strip light. The latter is much more densely packed like the 12V LED’s. FYI, the 12V LED’s density is 480 LED’s per meter, the ones used by @greedyintern (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/17235/). The 5V LED density is less at 400 LED/M. It looks fine to me. If I dim it way down I can see individual LED’s similar to @greedyintern (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/17235/) described also for the 12V LED’s. When lit, it looks good and fairly defused to me.
Most of the 5V LED’s on Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/?tag=amznpcfx-20) are actually even lower density, 320 LED/meter. Here’s a comparison of 320 LED/M (left) to 400 LED/M (right). Both are 5V LEDs. Also the left side is a 8mm strip (like @greedyintern (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/17235/) 12V 480 LED/meter strip), while the right side is 5mm I used. The right strip is powered at minimum setting ~ 10% so it looks very faint, while the left strip is at about 25% (min setting of its built-in cheap dimmer). You can see the discrete LED’s of both by zooming-in. 400 LED/M strips were harder to find, which is why I used the 5mm strip. Both look good to me when lit up, especially compared to the original Barrington LEDs.
I took some current measurements at different dimmers setting with an inserted ammeter. The full 3 meter length was measured. I cut about 20” off from each strip for actual install, so actual game night current usage will be proportionally lower than in this table below. For the 400 LED/M strip I measured both/two strips while connected in parallel so I could verify the power bank would be sufficient. All readings are current in Amperes:
100%85%75%50%25%0% Two 5V LED strip with 400 LED/m, 5mm3.11 A1.97 A1.32 A0.75 A0 One 5V LED strip with 320 LED/m, 8mm1.27 A1.09 A0.84 A0.12 A
From row 1, the required power bank needed can be calculated by: Capacity = Current x Time.
E.g., at 50% dimmer setting, Capacity = 1,320mA x 1 hr = 1320 mAH rated power bank needed for each 1hr of run time. My 10,000mAH USB power bank is more than enough, especially since I’ll be running closer to the 20% dimmer setting and can get close to 13hrs of run time. I verified this, left the lights on for 9 hours at 20%, and the power bank was still 50% full (based on its indicator lights).
Here’s the 5V LED with 320 LED/m, 8mm with a built-in dimmer and USB plug. (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DQQ1JFTG?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1&tag=amznpcfx-20)
Non LED @ $199 right now - https://www.walmart.com/ip/55465427?sid=20625ae8-c7c3-48fe-a700-10115be38cb1
Non LED @ $199 right now - https://www.walmart.com/ip/55465427?sid=20625ae8-c7c3-48fe-a700-10115be38cb1
And LED-version is $250.
Is there rough consensus here about which one people prefer? I've heard the LED one is sturdier, weighing 79lbs vs 66lbs for the non-LED.
For people who've played on both, which would you recommend?
And LED-version is $250.
Is there rough consensus here about which one people prefer? I've heard the LED one is sturdier, weighing 79lbs vs 66lbs for the non-LED.
For people who've played on both, which would you recommend?
Everyone I know here likes whichever one they bought, which I suppose is praise enough =) I personally would stick with the lighter one because it's FINE and heavy enough to lug around as it is. But I haven't used both and it seems like you can't go wrong either way.
And LED-version is $250.
Is there rough consensus here about which one people prefer? I've heard the LED one is sturdier, weighing 79lbs vs 66lbs for the non-LED.
For people who've played on both, which would you recommend?
I have had both, I like the thicker deck of the LED one, but it’s definitely heavier. If you need it mobile, I would consider the lighter one. Since I’m not moving it much, a thicker plywood deck is preferable.
The LED one has slightly deeper cup holders, but not enough to make a real difference. An upgrade for those is a nice improvement.
The metal tubing for the legs is a bit wider, but both tables are sturdy.
On the LED table, the padded rail is slightly more elevated over the deck than the non-LED, I’m guessing si the lights can show.
So I finished my Barrington mods (for now) but still need to order a topper.
New LEDs, Dimmer, AA Battery Pack, and Jumbo Cupholders
COB LEDs
I wasn't the biggest fan of the blue LEDs and didn't like how they were so spaced out. I saw someone talk about the COB LEDs and how they are amost diffused already and ordered the warm white and couldn't be happier. The LEDs are very close together so you don't need to put something in front of them to diffuse them like I was trying to do with the old LEDs. Instead of ripping out the old LEDs, I actually just wedged the new LEDs right on top of the current ones. It worked out great.
I did have to cut the light strip and attach another tail end. Very easy to do but measure accurately before you cut! You don't have much leeway with the 16.4ft strip. And then used the Y connector that also came with the COB connector package.
Screwed and glued on some velcro, glued velcro to the battery pack, then buttoned up everything else. Happy with it.
COB LED Lights (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BVR755VK?tag=amznpcfx-20)
COB Connector Package (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C2CVFGL8?tag=amznpcfx-20)
Dimmer (https://www.amazon.com/weideer-Lights-Dimmer-DC12V-24V-K-018-BK/dp/B092HX9435?tag=amznpcfx-20)
Battery Pack (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B09131Y9L8?tag=amznpcfx-20)
Jumbo Cupholders
I went with the jumbos after reading recommendations. Pried off the old ones with a vise grip, drilled a center hole down with a standard bit, then drilled from the bottom up with the 3 5/8in hole saw starting it the pre drilled hole. I got them all done but it was a bit of a struggle with the hole saw I bought. If I would do it again, I would get one that was deeper. This one barely made it through both pieces of wood.
Jumbo Cupholders (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0789HG6NW?tag=amznpcfx-20)
Hole Saw (buy a deeper one) (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0C6MN14B1?tag=amznpcfx-20)
View attachment 1252914 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1252914/)
How did you run the cob lights from under the table to the sides of it? EDIT: It looks like you may have just followed the way the existing led strips were ran? I’m guessing that hole they run through was already there?
How did you run the cob lights from under the table to the sides of it? EDIT: It looks like you may have just followed the way the existing led strips were ran? I’m guessing that hole they run through was already there?
Yes, just follow the existing light strip. It goes into the hole at the middle of the table.
*** CUP HOLDER COVERS ***
I don’t like drinks on the table due to spillage, etc. so I use side tables instead. Because of that, doing the cup holder upgrade made no sense for my situation and I’ve been in search of a way to “cap off” the stock cup holders that come with my Barrington.
I’m happy to say that I’ve found a solution and wanted to share.
(https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/img_9443-webp.1592125/)
Supplies from Amazon:
12 Pack Regular Mouth Mason Jar Lids - Acacia Wooden Storage, Canning Ball Jar with Airtight Silicone Seal, Brown (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/barrington-poker-table-thread.30910/#-12-pack-regular-mouth-mason-jar-lids-acacia-wooden-storage-canning-ball-jar-with-airtight-silicone-seal-brown) https://a.co/d/8qTRtv7 (https://a.co/d/8qTRtv7?tag=amznpcfx-20)
(https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/img_9504-webp.1592149/)
_) (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/img_9249-webp.1592138/)
(https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/barrington-poker-table-thread.30910/#-) 12 PCS Silicone Seal Rings Reusable Leak Proof Sealing Gaskets Replacement for Mason Jar Lids (Regular Mouth 70mm) (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/barrington-poker-table-thread.30910/#-12-pcs-silicone-seal-rings-reusable-leak-proof-sealing-gaskets-replacement-for-mason-jar-lids-regular-mouth-70mm) https://a.co/d/hvyms6c (https://a.co/d/hvyms6c?tag=amznpcfx-20)
(https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/img_9253-webp.1592140/)
Note that you need to be sure to buy the “regular mouth” size of both the lids and the gaskets, and you must get the lids made from acacia wood because of their tapered lip. Do not get the bamboo ones as their lip is rounded and they won’t fit well.
(https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/img_9314-webp.1592152/)
Add the silicone gasket to the lid, placing it between the gray flange already there and the underside of the wooden lip. Be sure the “open” side of the gasket is facing up, as shown (also note the tapered lip of the lid).
(https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/img_9254-webp.1592141/)
) (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/img_9255-webp.1592142/)
) (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/img_9256-webp.1592143/)
When capping the cup holder off you may need to work the gasket back and forth a bit and maybe tuck it down a bit so it sits inside the cup holder rim.
I try adding links below to short video clips to show how loose the lid fits without the added gasket and how much better it is with it.
Without:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/Q21EyLpfPHAuCjsj6
With:
https://photos.app.goo.gl/WwJEH6KjfzJLn4fk8
You can see how secure it is with the added gasket.
I really wanted black cup holders and black lids to make them blend in more, but I was only partly successful. Attempts at prepping and painting the cup holders failed as the paint would never fully cure and harden even after 2 weeks (even paint made specifically for metal), and the powder-coated black cup holders that come with some Barrington tables are about 1/8 inch too tall to fit flush with the rail.
That’s why you may have seen my request for replacement cup holders here on PCF… I needed to get back to the original stainless steel after a few failed attempts!
However, I was able to paint my lids black. Just remove the gray silicone flange/cover, mask off the bottom with painters tape, and apply a few thin coats of fast-drying spray paint. I chose a black hammered-finish which I think looks nice. Be sure to let this cure for several days. Remove the masking, put the original flange back on, add the extra gasket and your back in business.
(https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/img_9264-webp.1592144/)
) (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/img_9265-webp.1592145/)
(https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/img_9266-webp.1592146/)
Here’s the finished product (missing my semi-custom table topper). Pretty dang happy with how this turned out.
(https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/img_9500-webp.1592147/)
Tagging a few who helped supply me with cup holders or showed interest in this project
@RadicusScout (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/10148/) @sleepyhead (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/20099/) @Trip7MHK (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/21760/) @Colquhoun (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/7696/) @Boother36 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/3786/) @TwinChameleon (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/21154/) @extreme517 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/1403/)
For people that have bought the non-LED version, would you purchase @ $199?
For people that have bought the non-LED version, would you purchase @ $199?
New? Yes, that's decent sale price. It's been cheaper, but that was a while back.
Price drop alert
Price drop alert
View attachment 1593405 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1593405/)
Wow, great deal.
I’m picking up a non-LED one, hoping it doesn’t get damaged in shipping
If anyone has a properly fitting topper in decent shape I’m in the market! Just ordered the recommended storage bag to help make it mobile
I’m picking up a non-LED one, hoping it doesn’t get damaged in shipping
If anyone has a properly fitting topper in decent shape I’m in the market! Just ordered the recommended storage bag to help make it mobile
It’s packaged pretty well - double boxed ala PCF packing guide - lots of foam and edge protection. A hand cart is helpful - weighs like 80lbs and it’s awkward to hold.
My non led table arrived a couple days ago! I'm happy with the $200 price I paid, but just a little bit less happy now that I see the price dropped a little lower. I remember seeing that someone was making reasonably priced, nice toppers for these but I can't seem to find that now. Is someone still making them? Those of you who have toppers, are you happy with them?
My non led table arrived a couple days ago! I'm happy with the $200 price I paid, but just a little bit less happy now that I see the price dropped a little lower. I remember seeing that someone was making reasonably priced, nice toppers for these but I can't seem to find that now. Is someone still making them? Those of you who have toppers, are you happy with them?
@rjdev7 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/1014/) is your man for toppers. I got a round topper for a different table and it was a big improvement. He makes Barrington-sized toppers at $135 shipped I think... the one I got shipped from Lithuania I think (or Latvia?) so I don't know if new tariffs have impacted pricing.
My non led table arrived a couple days ago! I'm happy with the $200 price I paid, but just a little bit less happy now that I see the price dropped a little lower. I remember seeing that someone was making reasonably priced, nice toppers for these but I can't seem to find that now. Is someone still making them? Those of you who have toppers, are you happy with them?
@rjdev7 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/1014/) is your man for toppers. I got a round topper for a different table and it was a big improvement. He makes Barrington-sized toppers at $135 shipped I think... the one I got shipped from Lithuania I think (or Latvia?) so I don't know if new tariffs have impacted pricing.
Great toppers! The order thread is here: https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/made-to-order-custom-table-toppers.96993/
I'm also waiting for Ryan's reply from my request 8 days ago. He get's busy and eventually replies.
$149 for the non led at Wally World
Took a stab at a table I got over the weekend for a tourney I hosted. Really happy with the black/gold look.
Got blessed in return with a straight flush!
The rail is so much nicer on these new ones vs the old ones. Great pickup!
Lowest i have ever seen - now is the time
$180 was too good of a deal to pass up. Finally ordered the LED version and now my other table will be just for transporting to other games and if I ever need a second table
$180 was too good of a deal to pass up. Finally ordered the LED version and now my other table will be just for transporting to other games and if I ever need a second table
I’m glad I made the upgrade to the LED, I love it.
$180 was too good of a deal to pass up. Finally ordered the LED version and now my other table will be just for transporting to other games and if I ever need a second table
$180 was too good of a deal to pass up. Finally ordered the LED version and now my other table will be just for transporting to other games and if I ever need a second table
Finally.
Brown ones are $149 and LED are $169 at Walmart right now.
Great deal right now for the Barrington LED for $169 at Walmart (https://www.walmart.com/ip/3963393753?sid=a6e72747-89d0-4f5b-80ac-2ce6e78ed972)
Great deal right now for the Barrington LED for $169 at Walmart (https://www.walmart.com/ip/3963393753?sid=a6e72747-89d0-4f5b-80ac-2ce6e78ed972)
View attachment 1601559 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1601559/)
I grabbed two new Barringtons yesterday but went with the non-LED ones. $149 each and Walmart is delivering them today within 24 hours. Solid!
@jamesjkim (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/16024/) just spotted they were down to $119 at Walmart. Insane!
@jamesjkim (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/16024/) just spotted they were down to $119 at Walmart. Insane!
Stocking stuffer prices. 🎅
@jamesjkim (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/16024/) just spotted they were down to $119 at Walmart. Insane!
Good looking out. I’ve been following here and that specific product page for about a month and a half now. It just keeps dropping!
@jamesjkim (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/16024/) just spotted they were down to $119 at Walmart. Insane!
I assume in person?
Also, for guys who purchased at a higher price point, if you reach out to customer service, they may honor the new price. Had a buddy pick one up at $189 and reached out and was refunded the difference.
I assume in person?
Nope! Just grabbed one online. Free shipping.
Nope! Just grabbed one online. Free shipping.
I checked right when I saw the post for 119 and it still said 169. I'm assuming it's regional. I'm in Wisconsin.
EDIT: Oooooh, I see - the standard table is $119! Great deal. I prefer the LED table though since the armrests sit a little higher and if you put a topper on it sits a little nicer.
I could use a back up to my backup 😏
I could use a back up to my backup 😏
Thank you to PCF for pointing out the sale on Barrington, my wife got it for me for Christmas. Shipped to the house in 2 days, our first time playing on it she tries to bluff me off with quads. She is regretting it already <3 Thanks PCF!
Hope that you made her pay twice over. :)
Mine came today too.
Hope that you made her pay twice over. :)
Mine came today too.
Good, use this time to UPGRADE YOUR CUPHOLDERS.
Good, use this time to UPGRADE YOUR CUPHOLDERS.
soooo.. any suggestions?
soooo.. any suggestions?
I second this...any good info on how to upgrade the cupholders?
I just purchased 2 and they arrived this week. My next Event is on Jan 9 so I have a bit of time.
I second this...any good info on how to upgrade the cupholders?
I just purchased 2 and they arrived this week. My next Event is on Jan 9 so I have a bit of time.
soooo.. any suggestions?
Below is the post I used. Not a handy guy at all but it worked perfectly. Already ordered another set. The shallow cupholders are a liability, too many bottles and cans get knocked over, the deeper ones fit rocks or pint glasses just fine.
https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/barrington-cup-holder-upgrade.112566/post-2317867
Standard cup holders are definitely too shallow and the upgrades are a really nice improvement for the cost/time.
View attachment 1228738 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1228738/)
Pro tip: drill your pilot hole from the top side of the table, then flip the table over and use the hole saw from the bottom side (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/barrington-poker-table-thread.30910/post-2192696). It saves you from ripping the pleather on the rail.
Cup Holders
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0789HG6NW/ (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0789HG6NW/?tag=amznpcfx-20)
Hole Saw
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08YJFNQR7/ (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B08YJFNQR7/?tag=amznpcfx-20)
My upgrade
https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/barrington-poker-table-thread.30910/post-2192321
Also adding a drawer again, big upgrade. I usually store extra card setup, bank, and a few racks of workhorse chips in there. This is not as essential as the cupholders for me but is even easier. Comes right off when its time to fold the table but feels perfectly sturdy holding 300+ chips. It does reduce clearance under the table, if your banker is larger you may have to worry about that.
Hey everyone! This is a guide on how to install a drawer to a barrington foldable poker table (or any foldable table) for under $75. With this mod you can still fold the table as usual for storage. You only need a screwdriver (electric preferred) and these things from amazon:
this specific 16in drawer (Amazon Drawer (https://rstyle.me/+WYbfAVrkAdU27kvH3aMX7g)) (the pwr one isn't necessary)
40lbs Neodymium Magnets 10pcs(Amazon Magnets (https://rstyle.me/+glswAFLDBszEeiRlNDVOhg))
It’s super simple as all you really need to do is screw the magnets under the table like this. Just make sure that the magnets align with the drawer sliders by marking it with a sharpie:
View attachment 1375848 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1375848/)
The magnets are super strong and should be able to hold 4 racks of chips easily. If you want stronger magnets there are stronger options but I found the 40lbs is more than enough. After the magnets are installed, just attach the sliders for the drawer to the magnets and you’re done! For a better and more flush look, push the sliding part of the drawer all the way to the end and have the actual drawer be on the outside of the wall like this:
View attachment 1376316 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1376316/)View attachment 1375849 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1375849/)
The drawer itself can hold up to 4 racks of chips and still have some wiggle room. This is super convenient as I can take chips out from this drawer for rebuys, store cash, etc. The best part of this is that it really only takes away about two inches of space between your legs and table (i have a friend who’s 6’4 230lbs and he can sit under the table fine with our chairs).
After you’re done having a good poker session, you can just pull off the drawer (with the sliders connected) and set it aside. This way you can fold up your table like normal. You’ll find that taking the actual drawer off from the table will take some force as the magnets work very well.
Hopefully this is helpful for anyone looking to install a drawer for cheap without having to lose the best part about the table! Here are some more pictures of what it looks like if anyone needs:
View attachment 1376317 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1376317/)View attachment 1376318 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1376318/)View attachment 1376591 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1376591/)
NOTE: It helps wonders if you have a low-profile chip tray bc it's slightly difficult to access the last row of chips. Not necessary just annoying.
I checked right when I saw the post for 119 and it still said 169. I'm assuming it's regional. I'm in Wisconsin.
EDIT: Oooooh, I see - the standard table is $119! Great deal. I prefer the LED table though since the armrests sit a little higher and if you put a topper on it sits a little nicer.
Yeah they didn't discount the LED table any more (still $169) but I wouldn't ever need lighting around the rail on a table, just seems too mush of a pain that I don't need, although the rails are a tad better on those newer table. The basic table when priced right (below $100-$120) is just an excellent deal.
I still prefer the LED table. With a dimmer it helps illuminate the cards quite a bit and doesn't blind you.
(You might have to go to the quoted post to see my pictures)
You might not plan to use the LEDs, but I highly recommend it. Getting the warm white COB LEDs and dimmer is a game changer.
LEDs off:
View attachment 1299681 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1299681/)
Warm white COB LEDs at about 30%:
View attachment 1299683 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1299683/)
I second this...any good info on how to upgrade the cupholders?
I just purchased 2 and they arrived this week. My next Event is on Jan 9 so I have a bit of time.
This is a great cup holder tutorial as well:
https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/barrington-poker-table-thread.30910/page-42#post-2405037
I skipped upgrading cupholders and bought 4 side carts with wheels off Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/?tag=amznpcfx-20) for $25 each. They have 3 levels. Drinks up top, cell phones mid level, The Bank and extra chips on bottom beside the bourbon. Took me 15 mins to put together. I only have to get up to pee now.
I skipped upgrading cupholders and bought 4 side carts with wheels off Amazon for $25 each. They have 3 levels. Drinks up top, cell phones mid level, The Bank and extra chips on bottom beside the bourbon. Took me 15 mins to put together. I only have to get up to pee now.
That's cool..
WHERES THE LINK!
That's cool..
WHERES THE LINK!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TCDPFX1?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1 (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TCDPFX1?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1&tag=amznpcfx-20)
Other people here have bought them. The veneer is very thin, so I added some waterproof placemats to put under drinks, otherwise they will get messed up. These were the best fit I found. Perfect width and just a couple of inches short lengthwise, which isn't an issue.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K9CB8Q5?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1 (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07K9CB8Q5?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1&tag=amznpcfx-20) (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/barrington-poker-table-thread.30910/#-https-www-amazon-com-dp-b07k9cb8q5-ref-ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title-th-1)
I only have to get up to pee now.
View attachment 1605074 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1605074/)
Working on a trough. Then we'll have no breaks. More hands per hour.
Working on a trough. Then we'll have no breaks. More hands per hour.
Telling you, if casinos figure out how to painlessly hook people up to catheters we're in trouble.
For all the people who have replaced the cupholders - Do you have problems folding the table back up? Do you need to remove the cup holders in order to do it?
For all the people who have replaced the cupholders - Do you have problems folding the table back up? Do you need to remove the cup holders in order to do it?
I have the version with the lights and the bigger cup holders does not interfere when folding the table.
I skipped upgrading cupholders and bought 4 side carts with wheels off Amazon for $25 each. They have 3 levels. Drinks up top, cell phones mid level, The Bank and extra chips on bottom beside the bourbon. Took me 15 mins to put together. I only have to get up to pee now.
You should drill 2 holes in the top shelf and drop in deep cup holders
For all the people who have replaced the cupholders - Do you have problems folding the table back up? Do you need to remove the cup holders in order to do it?
No problem folding with new cup holders. It doesn’t come close to interfering with folding. There is more than 1” of clearance.
Thanks guys @ef28 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/19839/) @chipzilla (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/20933/)
What is the best aftermarket bag for a Costco size with led? My bag has a few holes and the zipper went missing
This is the bag I have and it works well
https://a.co/d/g6RacIw (https://a.co/d/g6RacIw?tag=amznpcfx-20)
This is the bag I have and it works well
https://a.co/d/g6RacIw (https://a.co/d/g6RacIw?tag=amznpcfx-20)
Thanks! Just ordered one.
What is the best aftermarket bag for a Costco size with led? My bag has a few holes and the zipper went missing
The Hengme bag is great, and only $34:
https://a.co/d/7273w79 (https://a.co/d/7273w79?tag=amznpcfx-20)
Second time installing the bigger cup holders and first time attempting to upgrade the lights. Both sides were working before I removed the adhesive and put them in place but only one side is working now. Thats a problem for Saturday at this point.
Fixed the problem with the lights and I'm ready to go for next weeks game.
Looks great, where did you get your mat?
Looks great, where did you get your mat?
Thread 'Barrington Table Toppers - Group Buy'
https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/barrington-table-toppers-group-buy.138310/
Thread 'Barrington Table Toppers - Group Buy'
https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/barrington-table-toppers-group-buy.138310/
@thePokerClub (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/21675/) got it from a groupbuy last year and just ordered some more from this one
Agh that's annoying. Working on upgrading cupholders, took the old ones out then realized I don't have the pilot bit for the hole saw. Gotta pack everything up again and come back to it later.
I thought I saw a topper that had backgammon and checkers/chess on it.... Anyone know anything about those?
I recently upgraded my cup holders after a couple of close calls of having drinks spilled onto the playing surface. The cup holders that come with the table are a joke (a very cruel and sad joke). If you're on the fence about upgrading yours, don't delay. Get them upgraded. They're a huge improvement.
View attachment 1289094 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289094/)
I was really encouraged by the posts by @dmoney (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/3698/) and @greedyintern (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/17235/). Huge shout out to them and their guides. Those helped tremendously. This is dedicated to @Saoliver (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/1603/) who asked for a video (in the thread - not to me personally) but this is as close to a video I could muster. I hope this is helpful. :)
Items/tools:
View attachment 1289142 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289142/)
Replacement cup holders (https://www.amazon.com/YH-Poker-Jumbo-Stainless-Holders/dp/B0789HG6NW/?tag=amznpcfx-20)
Gloves
Eye protection
Auto trim removal tool (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C6V39SVH?tag=amznpcfx-20)
Screwdriver
Hole saw (3 5/8") (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01987566S?tag=amznpcfx-20) - (In retrospect, I would have used a different hole saw. Maybe the Milwaukee one)
Tape measure
Cardboard sheet
Hole saw arbor
1/4" drill bit
1/8" drill bit
Screw
Drill
Hair dryer (not pictured)
Step 1: Remove original cup holders
This step is pretty simple. Set the hairdryer on high heat and keep it approximately 1 inch away from the cup holder for about a minute. Most of the cup holders will only require a minute for the glue to loosen up. I only had a couple that needed more time. For those, I did it again for another minute.
View attachment 1289155 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289155/)
After the hairdryer, use the auto trim tool to pry the cup holder away from the loose glue. Work the tool around the cup holder while gently pulling the cup and glue apart.
View attachment 1289156 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289156/)
A couple of things to keep in mind when you remove the cup holder from the table:
The cup holder will be hot from the hairdryer so wear your gloves.
The glue will be very sticky so pull directly up and not to the side. Try not to get any on your the table/padding.
View attachment 1289157 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289157/)
Step 2: Mark the drill hole
Before you move onto this step, make sure all the glue has completely cooled off and dried.
This step is relatively easy but requires some concentration. The exactness of this step will ensure your new cup holders will be where you want them to be.
The original cup holders on my Barrington is measured at 3 1/2" across. You should double check yours if you're going to follow this step of my guide.
View attachment 1289168 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289168/)
The new cup holders measure 4" across.
View attachment 1289169 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289169/)
Since the size difference between the 2 cup holders is 1/2", we will need to mark the new center hole 1/4" away from the original center.
Here is a reference on how I calculated my center hole. I started the measure from the outer edge of the original cup holder. The idea is to mark the new center at the 2" mark.
View attachment 1289453 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289453/)
Here is a better visualization of this. The new center hole has to be 1/4" closer to the table and yet remain in center of the left/right side edges.
View attachment 1289461 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289461/)
I tried using a marker on the glue but found it difficult to accurately mark the exact location of the new hole. I decided to use a screw instead and that worked much better. The good thing about this is that I could move the screw easily to make fine adjustments as much as I needed. Once I've double (tripled!) checked my measurement I screwed in the screw to make a pilot hole. I didn't drill too deep - just deep enough to make a visible hole.
View attachment 1289462 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289462/)
Ultimately, I ended up with this outcome. I then took my 1/8" drill bit and drilled through the table using the pilot hole as a guide.
View attachment 1289471 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289471/)
Step 3: Drill out the new holes (from the bottom)
Flip the table upside down.
Before I drilled the hole with my hole saw, I drilled through the existing hole using the 1/4" drill bit. The reason for this is that the drill arbor is 1/4" so I wanted to make sure the arbor was aligned exactly to the new center. In retrospect, I suspect I could have used the 1/4" bit instead of the 1/8" bit in Step 2 and saved a step.
Drilling the hole was the worst part (for me). The hardest part was intentionally going slow and not hurry the process. The thing to note here is to stop drilling immediately after you've broken through to the foam. I was a nervous wreck trying not to over drill.
As you can see below, the foam is glued to the wood so I had to carefully separate the foam after I had drilled through the wood. Try to retain as much foam as you can in the original hole. This will help with the snugness of the new cup holder.
View attachment 1289474 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289474/)
Here is an "in progress" picture of the process. I really wanted to see the new cup holder put in so I did that one right away (it's rad). I was also doubting I did the math properly in Step 2 so I wanted to quadruple check it was right (it was). TRUST THE MATH!
I also wanted to show the new Barringtons have clearance for the holes without sawing any of the posts.
Please ignore my monstrosity of a drill. The nerds over at r/tools will ban me if they ever saw that thing.
View attachment 1289481 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289481/)
Step 4: Insert new cup holders and ENJOY
This step is easy and the most enjoyable. The new cup holders will be very snug (tight) in the new opening. I used a cardboard sheet to help me evenly apply pressure and knead the cup holder in. Think flattening pizza dough - same idea and motion.
Others mentioned having to tape their new cup holders with masking / duct tape to make them snug but I didn't have to do that. The foam and vinyl were enough to keep these cup holders very tight and snug. Oh, speaking of foam, trim away the excess foam that will be sticking out of the bottom after you're all done.
That's it! Enjoy your new rad cup holders!
Don't yell at me about my chairs. They're next to be upgraded!
View attachment 1289497 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1289497/)
I bought the Barrington on sale last week for $120 through Walmart. I see it's up to $150 currently. I want to thank everyone who shared their mods and especially RadicusScout for this detailed post. I took out my original cup holders tonight with my wife's hairdryer and a mini crowbar. I elected to go with the jumbo cups after seeing so many people recommend them over the deeper cup holders of the same width. I look forward to receiving them and my hole saw in the mail this week.
Came here as a new chipper and now i'm reading this thread and going down a deeper rabbit hole of the barrington table. $120 at walmart is a steal so i'll likely wait for another deal to come around. Does the crease get on anyone's nerves? It doesn't bother me but wondering if folks have had players take issue with it.
Came here as a new chipper and now i'm reading this thread and going down a deeper rabbit hole of the barrington table. $120 at walmart is a steal so i'll likely wait for another deal to come around. Does the crease get on anyone's nerves? It doesn't bother me but wondering if folks have had players take issue with it.
Most people use a topper. Its better material so the cards slide and gets rid of the crease
Came here as a new chipper and now i'm reading this thread and going down a deeper rabbit hole of the barrington table. $120 at walmart is a steal so i'll likely wait for another deal to come around. Does the crease get on anyone's nerves? It doesn't bother me but wondering if folks have had players take issue with it.
Yes, best to wait for a sale on the Barrington. Especially if you consder adding a topper, upgraded cup holders, a bag, COB lights, a dimmer, and a battery pack...it's suddenly a $600 table! :wow: :ROFL: :ROFLMAO:
Upgraded my cup holders! Such an improvement, I can finally have a whiskey glass at the table and not on the floor.
I did the same. New ones are a must. Also did the LED upgrade.
Upgraded my cup holders! Such an improvement, I can finally have a whiskey glass at the table and not on the floor.
View attachment 1623754 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1623754/)
That looks amazing!
I love the Magritte painting.
That looks amazing!
I love the Magritte painting.
Thank you! It’s an oil painted reproduction, Magritte is my favorite artist
....an oil painted reproduction....
An exact replica of the original, in your own home for your own use?!?
Watch out....the "tribute" police are everywhere here.
You might be told you should be more creative and make your own original painting. :rolleyes:
Thank you! It’s an oil painted reproduction, Magritte is my favorite artist
Magritte is amazing.
The original is at the Art Institute here in Chicago. One on my favorite pieces there.
Magritte is amazing.
The original is at the Art Institute here in Chicago. One on my favorite pieces there.
Yes! First time I visited Chicago I went and saw it. That museum is amazing
Yes! First time I visited Chicago I went and saw it. That museum is amazing
Just visited myself. Amazing
Was wondering if it’s possible to cut out for a chip tray on the led barrington table?
I have the opportunity to pick up one new in box for $150 and would like to have a chip tray. I assume I’ll need to move the hinge(s) but was curious if anyone has done this and if so has the process they used.
Was wondering if it’s possible to cut out for a chip tray on the led barrington table?
I have the opportunity to pick up one new in box for $150 and would like to have a chip tray. I assume I’ll need to move the hinge(s) but was curious if anyone has done this and if so has the process they used.
Between the hinges and the leg mounts, I can’t imagine making a hole in the table in the middle without quite a bit of structural issues and moving critical parts around.
Ok thanks
Just got my Barrington table. I got new cupholders and a hole saw. Wish me luck!
how does everyone keep their playing surface clean? I’ve used a handheld vacuum and had good luck but don’t want to damage the felt, anyone have a good recommendation?
how does everyone keep their playing surface clean? I’ve used a handheld vacuum and had good luck but don’t want to damage the felt, anyone have a good recommendation?
Pet hair roller
how does everyone keep their playing surface clean? I’ve used a handheld vacuum and had good luck but don’t want to damage the felt, anyone have a good recommendation?
Honestly, I just throw mine in the washing machine. "Delicates" cycle and by itself. I skip the dryer and let it air dry before I use it again.
I have the "advantage" that I don't have a permanent table and actually use bungee cords to secure the felt (unsuited speed cloth) over a piece of Volara foam when I play, so it's easy to 'remove and replace'.
If it's glued or stapled down to a more permanent table, I can't help, but the felt I use is over 10 years old, ~ monthly games until recently, and doesn't need frequent washing as food is limited at the table (no juicy wing-fingers or stale burger-juice) so that helps the cleanliness.
Pet hair roller
Yep. Lint roller works great.
Hey folks, I'm from Canada. Anyone buy cupholders to replace existing ones. I don't want to upgrade width, just make it deeper. Any insight?
Hey folks, I'm from Canada. Anyone buy cupholders to replace existing ones. I don't want to upgrade width, just make it deeper. Any insight?
Why not wider? You'll need to drill a hole in the plywood under the existing cupholders anyway to put in anything deeper.
Why not wider? You'll need to drill a hole in the plywood under the existing cupholders anyway to put in anything deeper.
Nervous about cutting into the cushioned rest, or doing a bad job. Just less risk I guess
Nervous about cutting into the cushioned rest, or doing a bad job. Just less risk I guess
Like I said, you’ll still need to cut a hole. It’s exactly the same process for a smaller diameter cup holder.
Hey folks, I'm from Canada. Anyone buy cupholders to replace existing ones. I don't want to upgrade width, just make it deeper. Any insight?
These are what i used to go deeper but keeping the same with. SEETOOOGAMES Drop-in Cup Holder... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BZCRPL4N?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0BZCRPL4N?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share&tag=amznpcfx-20)
Wonder when the next deal will be. These tables are 350-450 on just about every website I can find. Found the brown one for 220 and thought about pulling the trigger but somebody else’s bullet was faster than mine. Can everyone confirm the size is 84 inches long for the lighted and standard barrington?
I’ve found some similar cheaper tables( vevor and brands like that) but most are 72 inches.
Seems like Black Friday and holiday season is the time to buy one?
Wonder when the next deal will be. These tables are 350-450 on just about every website I can find. Found the brown one for 220 and thought about pulling the trigger but somebody else’s bullet was faster than mine. Can everyone confirm the size is 84 inches long for the lighted and standard barrington?
I’ve found some similar cheaper tables( vevor and brands like that) but most are 72 inches.
Seems like Black Friday and holiday season is the time to buy one?
I would be patient and keep an eye on Walmart. They seem to frequently go on sale. I had a friend buy 2 of them for $169 in December. I bet they go on sale here again soon. Maybe Fathers Day?
I would be patient and keep an eye on Walmart. They seem to frequently go on sale. I had a friend buy 2 of them for $169 in December. I bet they go on sale here again soon. Maybe Fathers Day?
I got lucky and scored a diy table from a guy who was moving! It’s pretty damn snazzy, no cup holders but I’m happy!
LED Barrington on sale at Costco Canada, or at least Ontario (don’t know how regional it is)
I’m guessing a new one or new version will be available later this year?
Are all these manufacturers making the same looking tables the same? Was thinking of getting one or two of these for tournaments but I see the same looking tables under other names than Barrington and the prices are all over the place
Are all these manufacturers making the same looking tables the same? Was thinking of getting one or two of these for tournaments but I see the same looking tables under other names than Barrington and the prices are all over the place
It’s a Barrington. Slightly less reinforced (just fine!). Comes with extra toppers for different games. Totally worth it.likely just needs a custom topper and you are good to go!
It’s a Barrington. Slightly less reinforced (just fine!). Comes with extra toppers for different games. Totally worth it.likely just needs a custom topper and you are good to go!
Which is a Barrington?
Which is a Barrington?
https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/img_9941-webp.1658895/
So what is considered the “better” barrington?
Also I was referring to tables like these. Are the the same just under a different name?
https://www.amazon.com/Rioloiuy-Fol...msclkid=4365952fc5c8168bc934fcde81638fdc&th=1 (https://www.amazon.com/Rioloiuy-Foldable-Portable-Folding-Holders/dp/B0CV9S8MP2/ref=asc_df_B0CV9S8MP2?tag=amznpcfx-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=80539436593466&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=t&hvlocint=58631&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4584138916265435&msclkid=4365952fc5c8168bc934fcde81638fdc&th=1)
https://www.amazon.com/SereneLife-F...629-8868-08e4984d1e7f&pd_rd_i=B0DS1M2XYX&th=1 (https://www.amazon.com/SereneLife-Foldable-Cushioned-Water-Resistant-Felt-Surface/dp/B0DS1M2XYX/ref=pd_lpo_d_sccl_2/143-2855668-1262629?pd_rd_w=EJDwG&content-id=amzn1.sym.4c8c52db-06f8-4e42-8e56-912796f2ea6c&pf_rd_p=4c8c52db-06f8-4e42-8e56-912796f2ea6c&pf_rd_r=XH7Q0ZJDXD8SBXNHC7C5&pd_rd_wg=4Ab0X&pd_rd_r=82b3c39d-54f8-4629-8868-08e4984d1e7f&pd_rd_i=B0DS1M2XYX&th=1&tag=amznpcfx-20)
Are all these manufacturers making the same looking tables the same? Was thinking of getting one or two of these for tournaments but I see the same looking tables under other names than Barrington and the prices are all over the place
I can’t answer your question technically because I don’t have the actual knowledge but I know what you are talking about. When you search for Barringtons you will find many tables that looks very similar.
I’m only going to guess or assume here that many of those tables use the same or similar parts and then slap their logos on it.
Barringtons, as seen in this thread receive high praise for what they cost from many many PCFers, to me it feels like the default for inexpensive foldable table.
So you can buy others for probably cheaper but they may or may not be as good for the money as Barringtons are touted as.
I asked because some of these models show the cup holders on protruding through the bottom. I was thinking this may make them easier to replace with deeper ones
Big problem with the cheapest tables is cheap packaging, which leads to more shipping damage. Check out the review on Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/?tag=amznpcfx-20) to see lots of "this table's great" alongside "This table arrived totally bashed up!"
Barrington ships from Walmart via FedEx (in my experience last year) and so both Barrington and Walmart have a vested interest in minimizing shipping damage. Unlike random chinese-made whitelabeled amazon (https://www.amazon.com/?tag=amznpcfx-20) tables.
I did a deep dive hoping to find the best deal and ultimately figured that the plain but well regarded (by PCF) Barrington was likely to outperform random Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/?tag=amznpcfx-20) slop table.
Also the tables on Walmart go from like $400 to $200 on sale (free shipping), to I think as low as $99 shipped around chirstmas?
Big problem with the cheapest tables is cheap packaging, which leads to more shipping damage. Check out the review on Amazon to see lots of "this table's great" alongside "This table arrived totally bashed up!"
Barrington ships from Walmart via FedEx (in my experience last year) and so both Barrington and Walmart have a vested interest in minimizing shipping damage. Unlike random chinese-made whitelabeled amazon tables.
I did a deep dive hoping to find the best deal and ultimately figured that the plain but well regarded (by PCF) Barrington was likely to outperform random Amazon slop table.
Also the tables on Walmart go from like $400 to $200 on sale (free shipping), to I think as low as $99 shipped around chirstmas?
Thank you. I’ll look to Walmart for one
Thank you. I’ll look to Walmart for one
Costco and others stock them I think too, but not consistently. Like they get a few container loads in at random times and sell them out before reordering more months later
Also lots of custom made “toppers” made on PCF to the barrington dimensions.
LED version is $50-100 more and ~25lbs heavier, from like 60 to 85 pounds, the difference of decent portability. LED table has slightly different dimensions too, mostly relevant when sizing custom toppers
Also prices seem to vary wildly but you can see it’s all the same model barringrom table so comparison shopping is easy
So what is considered the “better” barrington?
Also I was referring to tables like these. Are the the same just under a different name?
https://www.amazon.com/Rioloiuy-Fol...msclkid=4365952fc5c8168bc934fcde81638fdc&th=1 (https://www.amazon.com/Rioloiuy-Foldable-Portable-Folding-Holders/dp/B0CV9S8MP2/ref=asc_df_B0CV9S8MP2?tag=amznpcfx-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=80539436593466&hvnetw=o&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=t&hvlocint=58631&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4584138916265435&msclkid=4365952fc5c8168bc934fcde81638fdc&th=1)
https://www.amazon.com/SereneLife-F...629-8868-08e4984d1e7f&pd_rd_i=B0DS1M2XYX&th=1 (https://www.amazon.com/SereneLife-Foldable-Cushioned-Water-Resistant-Felt-Surface/dp/B0DS1M2XYX/ref=pd_lpo_d_sccl_2/143-2855668-1262629?pd_rd_w=EJDwG&content-id=amzn1.sym.4c8c52db-06f8-4e42-8e56-912796f2ea6c&pf_rd_p=4c8c52db-06f8-4e42-8e56-912796f2ea6c&pf_rd_r=XH7Q0ZJDXD8SBXNHC7C5&pd_rd_wg=4Ab0X&pd_rd_r=82b3c39d-54f8-4629-8868-08e4984d1e7f&pd_rd_i=B0DS1M2XYX&th=1&tag=amznpcfx-20)
These are 8 seater tables while the Barringtons are 10 seaters. While you can fit 8 or 10 respectively, it’s a tight squeeze and more comfortable is 7 or 9.
These are 8 seater tables while the Barringtons are 10 seaters. While you can fit 8 or 10 respectively, it’s a tight squeeze and more comfortable is 7 or 9.
Are they the same quality? They look very very similar. I thought Barrington also made 84” tables
Maybe I should have linked this
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0FRZZ721...=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWxfdGhlbWF0aWM&th=1 (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0FRZZ721F/ref=sspa_dk_detail_5?pd_rd_i=B0FRZZ721F&pd_rd_w=oVJ89&content-id=amzn1.sym.f2f1cf8f-cab4-44dc-82ba-0ca811fb90cc&pf_rd_p=f2f1cf8f-cab4-44dc-82ba-0ca811fb90cc&pf_rd_r=TXVCH99H5JHC9DJ9D0EZ&pd_rd_wg=tQAxI&pd_rd_r=0210778c-e4c2-4a4a-b347-054e51e65f02&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWxfdGhlbWF0aWM&th=1&tag=amznpcfx-20)
Are they the same quality? They look very very similar. I thought Barrington also made 84” tables
Maybe I should have linked this
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0FRZZ721...=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWxfdGhlbWF0aWM&th=1 (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0FRZZ721F/ref=sspa_dk_detail_5?pd_rd_i=B0FRZZ721F&pd_rd_w=oVJ89&content-id=amzn1.sym.f2f1cf8f-cab4-44dc-82ba-0ca811fb90cc&pf_rd_p=f2f1cf8f-cab4-44dc-82ba-0ca811fb90cc&pf_rd_r=TXVCH99H5JHC9DJ9D0EZ&pd_rd_wg=tQAxI&pd_rd_r=0210778c-e4c2-4a4a-b347-054e51e65f02&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWxfdGhlbWF0aWM&th=1&tag=amznpcfx-20)
Looks similar, but this one looks like you need to assemble. The Barrington comes ready-to-go out of the box. Also, this one looks like it has 3 seams because of the way it is packaged before assembly. A topper is going to negate the seams on this or the Barrington, however.
I cannot speak to overall quality compared to the Barrington. Just making note of what I see within the product link.
Are they the same quality? They look very very similar. I thought Barrington also made 84” tables
Maybe I should have linked this
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0FRZZ721...=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWxfdGhlbWF0aWM&th=1 (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0FRZZ721F/ref=sspa_dk_detail_5?pd_rd_i=B0FRZZ721F&pd_rd_w=oVJ89&content-id=amzn1.sym.f2f1cf8f-cab4-44dc-82ba-0ca811fb90cc&pf_rd_p=f2f1cf8f-cab4-44dc-82ba-0ca811fb90cc&pf_rd_r=TXVCH99H5JHC9DJ9D0EZ&pd_rd_wg=tQAxI&pd_rd_r=0210778c-e4c2-4a4a-b347-054e51e65f02&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9kZXRhaWxfdGhlbWF0aWM&th=1&tag=amznpcfx-20)
I can’t speak to quality comparison as I only have a Barrington. Depending on how soon you’re looking to get a table, I had good luck (along with others) getting one on sale at Costco. If you go with the Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/?tag=amznpcfx-20) table, returns should be relatively easy if it’s not what you’re expecting…right?
If the prices are close, I’d definitely go with the barrington
Currently “on sale” at $349 (down from $399) on Walmart, shipped free
https://www.walmart.com/ip/10-Playe...ired-by-Barrington-Billiards-Company/55465427 (https://www.walmart.com/ip/10-Player-Poker-Table-No-Assembly-Required-by-Barrington-Billiards-Company/55465427)
Seems like they randomly move the price around. I scooped mine for $200, but it got as low as $100 a week or two later.
I was also convinced to go with this model after reading through a lot of this thread… it’s basically dozens of people here vouching for it, showing how to do modifications if desired (deep cupholders, LED strip changes, etc). Ain’t no REHKEEP admiration threads (or whatever the latest cheapest “brand” table on Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/?tag=amznpcfx-20) is)
If the prices are close, I’d definitely go with the barrington
Currently “on sale” at $349 (down from $399) on Walmart, shipped free
https://www.walmart.com/ip/10-Playe...ired-by-Barrington-Billiards-Company/55465427 (https://www.walmart.com/ip/10-Player-Poker-Table-No-Assembly-Required-by-Barrington-Billiards-Company/55465427)
Seems like they randomly move the price around. I scooped mine for $200, but it got as low as $100 a week or two later.
I was also convinced to go with this model after reading through a lot of this thread… it’s basically dozens of people here vouching for it, showing how to do modifications if desired (deep cupholders, LED strip changes, etc). Ain’t no REHKEEP admiration threads (or whatever the latest cheapest “brand” table on Amazon is)
Sounds good. I definitely don’t need one of these so will likely wait for a great deal
I just missed the $119 in December and now can't possibly go for $349, so I'm waiting patiently.
Hoping for Father's Day sale.
Standard Barrington jumped up to $358.67 on Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/?tag=amznpcfx-20), about a $70 increase. LED version is $399 from Walmart. Do I go LED if I want to order one today? Trying to play this weekend. Would have ordered the standard today but after that increase, the LED is in play.
I just missed the $119 in December and now can't possibly go for $349, so I'm waiting patiently.
Hoping for Father's Day sale.
If I remember correctly, the Barrington's go on sale around (or just after?) the WSOP... so look for something late May - July
https://www.walmart.com/ip/10-Playe...ired-by-Barrington-Billiards-Company/55465427 (https://www.walmart.com/ip/10-Player-Poker-Table-No-Assembly-Required-by-Barrington-Billiards-Company/55465427)
On sale for $250. Think it will go lower?
I hope it does. I need another one....
They will go cheaper eventually.
wait till April 1
wait till April 1
is that an April Fools joke?
is that an April Fools joke?
Like many others, it took a little time for me to feel hopeful in taking on the task of upgrading my new table. But with the help of some great posts by @greedyintern (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/17235/), @RadicusScout (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/10148/) & @dmoney (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/3698/), I gave it a shot. Installed new cupholders & upgraded to the Cob LED strip with a dimmer & battery pack. I couldn’t be happier with how everything turned out, it’s well worth the time..trust me!!
A small thing I would add to the cupholder removal process, is separating the foam first. I added a picture showing what I mean by that. After I took out the old cupholders, I simply ran my finger around the interior top side edge scraping back a half inch or so of the foam from the wood all the way around. This way it would already be separated once you make it through both pieces of wood. As long as you’re still cautious towards the end, you won’t have to worry about tearing any part of the foam off once you’re pulling the holesaw back out. Small thing I know but it worked well for me, maybe it can help the next guy.
Like I said, I’m extremely satisfied with how everything turned out. The new cupholders line up perfectly and are a perfect size in my opinion. Plus, there’s now no big risk of one my friends knocking their drink over every 10 seconds. 👍🏼 The LED no longer blinds everyone at the table and is a smooth warm white that’s great for long sessions. I placed the new strip over the old & it worked perfectly. Purchased the strip, dimmer & battery pack off of the previous post recommendations from the members I mentioned. All that’s left is custom topper from @rjdev7 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/1014/). Sent a PM at the beginning of the month, but I hear how backed up he gets. Hopefully I’ll hear something soon.
Let me know what you guys think!
First off, a huge thank you to everyone on this thread for sharing your experiences and tips—it honestly made this upgrade a breeze!
I’ve had my Barrington for about a year, and I was lucky enough to snag it last year during a Prime weekend sale for $150 (definitely one of my better impulse purchases). We’ve used it a handful of times, and while it’s a solid table, every poker night inevitably ends with at least one drink taking an unexpected dive onto the playing surface. Why? Those original cupholders are shallower than a baking sheet. This upgrade is an absolute must. I’m genuinely shocked deeper cupholders aren’t standard—especially on a table designed for people who tend to keep beverages within arm’s reach.
All the guides and feedback here are 100% spot on. In my case, the original cupholders came out very easily without any heating. I also enlisted my dad to help because I’m the least handy person in my family. I like to call it teamwork; he’d probably call it supervision
Drilling was straightforward with a 3.5" hole saw. We did have to remove the buckles and straps that secure the table from the top two holes and reattach them to the outside afterward, since they were mounted directly beneath the original cupholders. After drilling, we trimmed back the vinyl on the rail to about where the original cupholder sat to make room for the larger replacements. We also had to slightly elongate a few holes since the new cupholders were a very tight fit. Other than that, the process was simple and well worth the effort.
Overall, I’d consider this a must-have upgrade for anyone with this table. The deeper cupholders make a huge difference, and now I can focus on losing chips instead of saving drinks.
At this point, the only upgrade left to really make this table pop is a custom topper from RJDev. Once that’s in place, I’m pretty sure the table will look better than the poker being played on it.
Price tracker for the standard table can be found here: https://camelmart.com/product/55465427
Kind of hard to tell whether the price will drop further anytime soon, or whether this is the new "sale" price and it only goes up from here.
Price tracker for the standard table can be found here: https://camelmart.com/product/55465427
Kind of hard to tell whether the price will drop further anytime soon, or whether this is the new "sale" price and it only goes up from here.
View attachment 1687560 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1687560/)
Thanks for this link.. actually looking for one atm so you sent it at the perfect time.
I just found these 100% thick vachetta leather handles at my local hardware store, thinking this would be a good addition to the table to actually be able to carry it. plan on using some bolts, washers & nuts to secure it to the flat side part of the table.
thoughts?
I just found these 100% thick vachetta leather handles at my local hardware store, thinking this would be a good addition to the table to actually be able to carry it. plan on using some bolts, washers & nuts to secure it to the flat side part of the table.
thoughts?
How many did you get? I’m assuming at least 2? Or 4 for two people?
How many did you get? I’m assuming at least 2? Or 4 for two people?
I just grabbed one, in my head I was thinking how I would carry it, I've come to the conclusion that I would use one hand with that handle and my other hand bracing it underneath on the other end . almost same concept as those foldable tables if that makes sense.
I just grabbed one, in my head I was thinking how I would carry it, I've come to the conclusion that I would use one hand with that handle and my other hand bracing it underneath on the other end . almost same concept as those foldable tables if that makes sense.
I mean, it makes sense but I’ve pulled my back too many times now lol. My table doesn’t move at the point ha.
I mean, it makes sense but I’ve pulled my back too many times now lol. My table doesn’t move at the point ha.
lol
I plans to stick it here, so when is folded, it'll be easy as it'll be almost center weighted. I used
@Dallas75 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/23674/) pic for reference if that's ok. sorry 😔
lol
I plans to stick it here, so when is folded, it'll be easy as it'll be almost center weighted. I used
@Dallas75 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/23674/) pic for reference if that's ok. sorry 😔
Another option is getting an after market storage bag for your table. The Barrington bags that come with the table wear out pretty quick, and the zippers break. The after market bags have handles. Someone on this thread pointed me toward an after market bag and it's great. It has a big strap handle over the top, but even better is the smaller hand holds on the side for a 2 person lift.
https://a.co/d/g6RacIw (https://a.co/d/g6RacIw?tag=amznpcfx-20)
Another option is getting an after market storage bag for your table. The Barrington bags that come with the table wear out pretty quick, and the zippers break. The after market bags have handles. Someone on this thread pointed me toward an after market bag and it's great. It has a big strap handle over the top, but even better is the smaller hand holds on the side for a 2 person lift.
https://a.co/d/g6RacIw (https://a.co/d/g6RacIw?tag=amznpcfx-20)
I have purchased many of the different bags available and actually like the Hengme bag better. It has just a little more room in the opening making it much easier to fit the slightly larger LED Barringtons into it. Once you toss it in a bag, throw the strap over your shoulder and it is so much easier to carry. No need for adding handles to the table. Plus it protects the table from scuffs and dings.
https://a.co/d/0ir2T0ls (https://a.co/d/0ir2T0ls?tag=amznpcfx-20)
Edited to add - Plus it is cheaper!
I have purchased many of the different bags available and actually like the Hengme bag better. It has just a little more room in the opening making it much easier to fit the slightly larger LED Barringtons into it. Once you toss it in a bag, throw the strap over your shoulder and it is so much easier to carry. No need for adding handles to the table. Plus it protects the table from scuffs and dings.
https://a.co/d/0ir2T0ls (https://a.co/d/0ir2T0ls?tag=amznpcfx-20)
Edited to add - Plus it is cheaper!
I have the Hengme bag and I think the shoulder strap is the only way I could carry it.
What I think makes a handle difficult is the height of the table…you’re starting from a height that makes it tough. If you were lifting and carrying a heavy item with a handle that’s 18” off the ground, it’s easy. But with these tables, leaning down a bit, strapping it over your shoulder and standing up is much better, imo.
Even then, carry it alone only if you must. Otherwise, getting someone to assist is a HUGE help.
Another option is getting an after market storage bag for your table. The Barrington bags that come with the table wear out pretty quick, and the zippers break. The after market bags have handles. Someone on this thread pointed me toward an after market bag and it's great. It has a big strap handle over the top, but even better is the smaller hand holds on the side for a 2 person lift.
https://a.co/d/g6RacIw (https://a.co/d/g6RacIw?tag=amznpcfx-20)
This is the type of bag I use. I sling it on my shoulder with the strap and am able to manage it solo, even up and down stairs…the Walmart barrington at least...
I have the Costco barrington with LED as well and I need to make that a two person job when moving it.
so I was working on the cup holders last night on my LED Barrington..first blew my hair dryer on the 3rd cup, then my Ryobi drill started smoking while drilling, had to call it quits for now until I get a heat gun and a electric power drill..anyways once I removed the 3 stock cup holders I notice the felt is stapled there, my concern is while drilling through will it snag the felt and rip and pull it? I've read another post where someone drilled through and it snagged and ripped their felt and now has a small tear running onto the playing area.
so I was working on the cup holders last night on my LED Barrington..first blew my hair dryer on the 3rd cup, then my Ryobi drill started smoking while drilling, had to call it quits for now until I get a heat gun and a electric power drill..anyways once I removed the 3 stock cup holders I notice the felt is stapled there, my concern is while drilling through will it snag the felt and rip and pull it? I've read another post where someone drilled through and it snagged and ripped their felt and now has a small tear running on the playing area.
I was able to pop my cup holders out without using a heat gun or hair dryer, although your experience may vary. From what I found, they're glued to the table surface rather than the rail itself. Since you'll be drilling through that area anyway, the risk of damaging anything during removal is pretty low.
I followed the advice in this thread and drilled a pilot hole through the center of the old cup holder location first. Then I flipped the table over and drilled the new hole from the opposite side. You do need to be careful while drilling, but if you go slowly and stop once you reach the foam in the rail, you'll be fine. You'll definitely be able to feel when you get there.
For what it's worth, I barely snagged the fabric on one of my holes, and it had no effect on the playing surface. In my case, I wasn't too worried about it because I already had plant to purchase a topper to go over the original Barrington felt—I wasn't a big fan of the factory colors anyway. If you're really concerned about damaging the felt, you could always remove it before drilling and reinstall it afterward, or replace it with a different material while you have the table apart.
I followed the advice in this thread and drilled a pilot hole through the center of the old cup holder location first. Then I flipped the table over and drilled the new hole from the opposite side. You do need to be careful while drilling, but if you go slowly and stop once you reach the foam in the rail, you'll be fine. You'll definitely be able to feel when you get there.
I'm also following the instructions from another member, I rather use their measurements and drill the pilot hole 1/4" away from the original center towards the felt to have the larger 4" lip to lip cup holder sit center on the rail. otherwise it'll be sitting to close to the edge and not center.
I'm also following the instructions from another member, I rather use their measurements and drill the pilot hole 1/4" away from the original center towards the felt to have the larger 4" lip to lip cup holder sit center on the rail. otherwise it'll be sitting to close to the edge and not center.
I'm not sure I follow the reasoning on moving the pilot hole 1/4" from the original center. If the new cup holder is simply a larger diameter, the center point should still be the center point regardless of the size of the hole. Moving the pilot hole would actually shift the entire cup holder off-center relative to the original location, although that’s perfectly fine if the intent is to reposition the cup holder itself rather than just enlarge the existing opening.
I drilled mine centered on the original location, and they came out perfectly centered on the rail!
I'm not sure I follow the reasoning on moving the pilot hole 1/4" from the original center. If the new cup holder is simply a larger diameter, the center point should still be the center point regardless of the size of the hole. Moving the pilot hole would actually shift the entire cup holder off-center relative to the original location, although that’s perfectly fine if the intent is to reposition the cup holder itself rather than just enlarge the existing opening.
I drilled mine centered on the original location, and they came out perfectly centered on the rail!
I think the reasoning was to avoid cutting to close to the outside edge of the table into the side frame.
I could be wrong but since reading majority of the modified cup holders on these barrington tables, looks like they all used the the 1/4" off original center hole and it turned out all centered.
do you have a picture of yours by chance? just for reference.
Sure thing! I posted a couple of pictures earlier in the thread, but he is a picture of one of the finished cupholders:
Sure thing! I posted a couple of pictures earlier in the thread, but he is a picture of one of the finished cupholders:
View attachment 1691858 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1691858/)
that looks centered, I'm wondering the different variations of measurements that still leads to the same center placement at the end.
that looks centered, I'm wondering the different variations of measurements that still leads to the same center placement at the end.
That’s possible. I tried to make this as easy as possible for myself and not overcomplicate the process. Just take it slow. I’m certain you will be satisfied with the end result. Happy to answer any questions along the way!
I'm thinking I could maybe go a couple more MM towards this outside frame to avoid having the cup holders sit to closely to the inner edge towards the felt.
I'm thinking I could maybe go a couple more MM towards this outside frame to avoid having the cup holders sit to closely to the inner edge towards the felt.
What size hole saw are you using and what size are your cupholders?
What size hole saw are you using and what size are your cupholders?
3-5/8" hole saw
large cup holders 4" lip to lip, inside diameter is 3.5"
3-5/8" hole saw
large cup holders 4" lip to lip, inside diameter is 3.5"
3 5/8” should work, although the cupholders may or may not fit as snugly. I used a 3 1/2” and had to go back and slightly elongate some of the holes to get the new cupholders to fit. But they do not move whatsoever.
Can you explain your concern about the lip being too close to the edge of the rail/felt? If you move it in, they may not be exactly center as you had previously mentioned.
3 5/8” should work, although the cupholders may or may not fit as snugly. I used a 3 1/2” and had to go back and slightly elongate some of the holes to get the new cupholders to fit. But they do not move whatsoever.
Can you explain your concern about the lip being too close to the edge of the rail/felt? If you move it in, they may not be exactly center as you had previously mentioned.
i mean like move it tad bit further away from the felt, since I have a bit more room towards the outside edge before hitting the rail frame, if that makes sense.
i mean like move it tad bit further away from the felt, since I have a bit more room towards the outside edge before hitting the rail frame, if that makes sense.
I suppose that wouldn’t hurt anything - just might not be perfectly centered if that was the look you were going for. The rail is 5” across so you really only have about 1/2” on each side of the cupholder to play with. My thoughts are center it as best you can and call it a day!
i mean like move it tad bit further away from the felt, since I have a bit more room towards the outside edge before hitting the rail frame, if that makes sense.
I also used the step by step guide by @RadicusScout (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/10148/) including moving the center point 1/4” closer to the felt. That enabled not hitting the edge frame of the table by about 1/8” margin . So if you want to, you probably have room to reduce this 1/4” center offset a bit.
There may be some manufacturing variation table to table. You could verify this edge frame clearance for each cup holder by drilling a small hole from the topside at the edge of each existing cup holder hole and measure between the small drilled hole to the edge frame. That’s what I did. That gave me confidence the saw would be close but wouldn’t hit the edge frame.
ok so I just finished mine. I went with 1-7/8 instead of 2" and turned out pretty good.
when you mention to find the outside edge wouldn't we just use that side wall underneath to determine the max sidewall distance?
I also used the step by step guide by @RadicusScout (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/10148/) including moving the center point 1/4” closer to the felt. That enabled not hitting the edge frame of the table by about 1/8” margin . So if you want to, you probably have room to reduce this 1/4” center offset a bit.
View attachment 1692025 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1692025/)
There may be some manufacturing variation table to table. You could verify this edge frame clearance for each cup holder by drilling a small hole from the topside at the edge of each existing cup holder hole and measure between the small drilled hole to the edge frame. That’s what I did. That gave me confidence the saw would be close but wouldn’t hit the edge frame.
View attachment 1692032 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1692032/)
wouldn't this be max edge you can saw?
like go right up to this wall and start drill and you'll still be within frame without damaging the edge?
wouldn't this be max edge you can saw?
like go right up to this wall and start drill and you'll still be within frame without damaging the edge?
Sure, you could line up your saw a hair away from the wall and start sawing. You’d just be deviating from the step by step process @RadicusScout (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/10148/) posted. As long as you have a way to otherwise saw and be aligned with the existing smaller cup holder hole, you can change the process. The step by step process provides a center guide pilot hole to ensure such an alignment.
For me, slight damage to the wall is less critical. More important is that the new cut hole is located where you want and looks good from the top.
anyone have any suggestions on a new lock to keep the folded table in place, my clip straps came out when doing the ungraded cup holders.
anyone have any suggestions on a new lock to keep the folded table in place, my clip straps came out when doing the ungraded cup holders.
I used two small screws I had lying around in the garage to fasten it on the outside of the frame. It’s in the same place as before (near the cupholders on each side), but outside instead of mounted underneath the old cupholders.
Doesn't seem the barrington got on the amazon (https://www.amazon.com/?tag=amznpcfx-20) prime days sale and staying steady on walmart. Anyone know if it's likely to go on sale anytime soon? Thinking i might just buy it on walmart for the 249.
5V LED
Thanks to @greedyintern (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/17235/), @RadicusScout (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/10148/), @dmoney (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/3698/), and others for the great cupholder and LED mod instructions.
https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/barrington-poker-table-thread.30910/post-2352520
https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/barrington-poker-table-thread.30910/post-2405037
Just finished mine and it turned out great thanks to those detailed instructions.
For the COB LED lights, I did make a minor change which I haven’t seen posted. In case anyone’s interested:
The earlier LED lights are 12V, as are the dimmer and power bank. I instead used a 5V LED strip and dimmer. I wanted 5V so I could use a standard power bank, like the kind to charge a cell phone. It didn’t appeal to me to have a dedicated 12V power bank just for the table….I don’t have any other devices needing the 12V and I already have multiple 5V power banks.
It turns out Amazon has many 5V LED cob strips to choose at very low price. In fact, they typically have a standard USB-A plug already attached to the strip. If you plug it into a standard 5V power bank, it works! It’s too bright of course, so a dimmer is needed. Many have a basic dimmer also built-in to that USB plug, making a very low cost solution. I tried it, and it works, though only providing 6 discrete steps of dimming from about 100% down to about 25%. I chose a 5v strip with just the plain USB plug (no dimmer) and added a separate 5V dimmer which allows continuous dimming from 100% down to 0% (off), so I can use it at about the 15-20% setting which I prefer for my eye comfort.
The 5V strip I used was 3 meters long, enough for half the table with about 20” extra. So I bought two (about $10 each). There is one available 5 meters long, but that is barely long enough, or maybe a hair short. Buying two pieces also means I get two USB plugs and don’t have to add COB strip connectors.
5V COB LED lights (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DZH99SWJ?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1&tag=amznpcfx-20)
5V Dimmer (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RP836LM?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1&tag=amznpcfx-20)
Male USB plug to bare wire cable (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CHVM39WL?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&tag=amznpcfx-20)
Female USB plug to bare wire cable (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CLSC8FHY?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&tag=amznpcfx-20) (Optional. Delete if willing to cut and strip wiring)
Pictures:
Finished table:
View attachment 1586828 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1586828/)
Final mounted dimmer hardware:
View attachment 1586829 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1586829/)
Hardware in testing mode: This is where I used the optional Female-USB-plug-to-bare-wire cable for convenience. This cable can be skipped if you simply cut the end of the LED strip near the strip’s USB plug, strip the wires, and mount them directly to the dimmer. I did that in the picture above (final mounting):
View attachment 1586830 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1586830/)
Comparison of original Barrington LED lights to the 5V cob strip light. The latter is much more densely packed like the 12V LED’s. FYI, the 12V LED’s density is 480 LED’s per meter, the ones used by @greedyintern (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/17235/). The 5V LED density is less at 400 LED/M. It looks fine to me. If I dim it way down I can see individual LED’s similar to @greedyintern (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/17235/) described also for the 12V LED’s. When lit, it looks good and fairly defused to me.
View attachment 1586831 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1586831/)
Most of the 5V LED’s on Amazon are actually even lower density, 320 LED/meter. Here’s a comparison of 320 LED/M (left) to 400 LED/M (right). Both are 5V LEDs. Also the left side is a 8mm strip (like @greedyintern (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/17235/) 12V 480 LED/meter strip), while the right side is 5mm I used. The right strip is powered at minimum setting ~ 10% so it looks very faint, while the left strip is at about 25% (min setting of its built-in cheap dimmer). You can see the discrete LED’s of both by zooming-in. 400 LED/M strips were harder to find, which is why I used the 5mm strip. Both look good to me when lit up, especially compared to the original Barrington LEDs.
View attachment 1586832 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1586832/)
I took some current measurements at different dimmers setting with an inserted ammeter. The full 3 meter length was measured. I cut about 20” off from each strip for actual install, so actual game night current usage will be proportionally lower than in this table below. For the 400 LED/M strip I measured both/two strips while connected in parallel so I could verify the power bank would be sufficient. All readings are current in Amperes:
100%85%75%50%25%0% Two 5V LED strip with 400 LED/m, 5mm3.11 A1.97 A1.32 A0.75 A0 One 5V LED strip with 320 LED/m, 8mm1.27 A1.09 A0.84 A0.12 A
From row 1, the required power bank needed can be calculated by: Capacity = Current x Time.
E.g., at 50% dimmer setting, Capacity = 1,320mA x 1 hr = 1320 mAH rated power bank needed for each 1hr of run time. My 10,000mAH USB power bank is more than enough, especially since I’ll be running closer to the 20% dimmer setting and can get close to 13hrs of run time. I verified this, left the lights on for 9 hours at 20%, and the power bank was still 50% full (based on its indicator lights).
Here’s the 5V LED with 320 LED/m, 8mm with a built-in dimmer and USB plug. (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DQQ1JFTG?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1&tag=amznpcfx-20)
Hey what's that adaptor connected from the power bank to the cable?
Also for the dimmer switch is it ok to use a 12v one like this?
Hey what's that adaptor connected from the power bank to the cable?
Also for the dimmer switch is it ok to use a 12v one like this?
For the adaptor, I think you mean the USB-C-male-to-USBA-female adaptor. I needed it because my existing power bank only had a USB-C port, whereas the black cable from the dimmer had a USB-A plug on it.
USBC Male to A Female (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/barrington-poker-table-thread.30910/#-usbc-male-to-a-female)
I'm not sure about the dimmer you posted since I can't read the whole description. That's a 12V dimmer, so it will only work for 12V LED strip lights. You would need a 5V dimmer (like I used) if you use 5V LED lights. Also, it needs to be a PWM (pulse width modulation) style dimmer, so check the description to confirm.
For the adaptor, I think you mean the USB-C-male-to-USBA-female adaptor. I needed it because my existing power bank only had a USB-C port, whereas the black cable from the dimmer had a USB-A plug on it.
USBC Male to A Female View attachment 1698583 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1698583/)
I'm not sure about the dimmer you posted since I can't read the whole description. That's a 12V dimmer, so it will only work for 12V LED strip lights. You would need a 5V dimmer (like I used) if you use 5V LED lights. Also, it needs to be a PWM (pulse width modulation) style dimmer, so check the description to confirm.
Hey @chipzilla (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/20933/)! I used your instructions and parts list to put the 5V COB LED lights on my table tonight, they look great. I’ve got one problem - when I plug into a 5V wall adapter they dim perfectly, however with the power bank I bought on Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/?tag=amznpcfx-20) anytime I go below full brightness they flash and freak out. My table is in the middle of the room so I definitely need a powerbank - which do you use?
Hey @chipzilla (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/20933/)! I used your instructions and parts list to put the 5V COB LED lights on my table tonight, they look great. I’ve got one problem - when I plug into a 5V wall adapter they dim perfectly, however with the power bank I bought on Amazon anytime I go below full brightness they flash and freak out. My table is in the middle of the room so I definitely need a powerbank - which do you use?
This is the powerbank I'm using:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DCNNB7JD?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_2&th=1 (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DCNNB7JD?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_2&th=1&tag=amznpcfx-20)
Nothing special about it. Just a standard 5v powerbank.
Strange that yours works at full brightness but not at lower setting. What dimmer and powerbank are you using? Same exact parts list you say...? Also, if you used exactly the same 5v LED strip light as me, did you cut off (required) the built-in cheap dimmer before connecting it to the new dimmer?
This is the powerbank I'm using:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DCNNB7JD?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_2&th=1 (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DCNNB7JD?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_2&th=1&tag=amznpcfx-20)
View attachment 1698591 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1698591/)
Nothing special about it. Just a standard 5v powerbank.
Strange that yours works at full brightness but not at lower setting. What dimmer and powerbank are you using? Same exact parts list you say...? Also, if you used exactly the same 5v LED strip light as me, did you cut off (required) the built-in cheap dimmer before connecting it to the new dimmer?
Hey, yes! Same dimmer and strips, although the strips didn’t have a dimmer already at the link from your post. I’ll try some other power banks around the house to see if I can find one that works.
Edit: Come to think of it, when I tested it after installing the first strip it did work. It was on my when I added the second strip that it struggled. I’m wondering if the second strip in parallel is the reason it’s having issues…
I’ll try some other power banks around the house to see if I can find one that works.
Edit: Come to think of it, when I tested it after installing the first strip it did work. It was on my when I added the second strip that it struggled. I’m wondering if the second strip in parallel is the reason it’s having issues…
Two strips in parallel is definitely the correct hook up and should work. I tried a second very old 5v battery bank and it works too. So hopefully your other power banks solves the problem.
If your other power banks don't solve the problem, then I suspect you have a defective 5V dimmer and can try replacing it.
Hey, yes! Same dimmer and strips, although the strips didn’t have a dimmer already at the link from your post.
Oh, right. the strip I installed didn't have the cheap built-in dimmer, just a USB-A plug. (it was a different strip I tested that had the cheap built-in dimmer).
Quick question for those of you who have done the cupholder modification. The cupholders I purchased have what appear to be similar dimensions to the jumbos everyone is using (3.9" lip to lip). I purchased a 3 5/8" hole saw, but when I held it up to the cupholders it appeared to be larger than the cupholders by a fair bit (see photo). To test this, I drilled out a piece of scrap wood with a 3.5" hole saw, and the cupholder dropped in just fine -- it wasn't tight at all, but it also didn't wiggle that much. Do I just have different sized cupholders than everyone else? Or is the reason everyone is going with the 3 5/8" hole saw because the hold padding/felt have to get squished into the hole as well and there needs to be some room in there?
Thanks!
Two strips in parallel is definitely the correct hook up and should work. I tried a second very old 5v battery bank and it works too. So hopefully your other power banks solves the problem.
If your other power banks don't solve the problem, then I suspect you have a defective 5V dimmer and can try replacing it.
Oh, right. the strip I installed didn't have the cheap built-in dimmer, just a USB-A plug. (it was a different strip I tested that had the cheap built-in dimmer).
Just an update - it was the power bank! Working great now
Quick question for those of you who have done the cupholder modification. The cupholders I purchased have what appear to be similar dimensions to the jumbos everyone is using (3.9" lip to lip). I purchased a 3 5/8" hole saw, but when I held it up to the cupholders it appeared to be larger than the cupholders by a fair bit (see photo). To test this, I drilled out a piece of scrap wood with a 3.5" hole saw, and the cupholder dropped in just fine -- it wasn't tight at all, but it also didn't wiggle that much. Do I just have different sized cupholders than everyone else? Or is the reason everyone is going with the 3 5/8" hole saw because the hold padding/felt have to get squished into the hole as well and there needs to be some room in there?
Thanks!
View attachment 1699560 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1699560/)
Hopefully you got your install working already. I used the jumbo cupholders others have used, so I don't know that specific black cup holder you have. But yours looks a little smaller in diameter compared to mine. My cupholder measures 89.7mm (3 - 17/32") at the bottom outside diameter. It fits snuggly in the 3 - 5/8" hole cut by the hole saw. Pic attached is my cupholder as seen from the bottom of the table.
For the adaptor, I think you mean the USB-C-male-to-USBA-female adaptor. I needed it because my existing power bank only had a USB-C port, whereas the black cable from the dimmer had a USB-A plug on it.
USBC Male to A Female View attachment 1698583 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1698583/)
Instead of that adaptor could I use this instead?
Instead of that adaptor could I use this instead?
Yes, IF your battery powerbank has a USB-C connector on it (instead of USB-A like on my battery), AND you are using a dimmer with bare wire terminals on it like THIS ONE (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RP836LM?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1&tag=amznpcfx-20), then you can use that USB-C-to-bare-wire cable to connect your battery to the dimmer's INPUT terminals.
Barrington table at Walmart is $200 which is the lowest I've seen in a while. It's also marked as "clearance". I finally bit the bullet and ordered one. https://www.walmart.com/ip/10-Playe...ired-by-Barrington-Billiards-Company/55465427 (https://www.walmart.com/ip/10-Player-Poker-Table-No-Assembly-Required-by-Barrington-Billiards-Company/55465427)
Looks like the LED one is at $239 as well
Walmart has the standard one for $149 again. Grab it while you can.
And the LED version is $179. Might be time to pull the trigger?
@horseshoez (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/5314/) and @Deucekies (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/11845/) thanks for the heads-up, he has gone even lower than this weekend, just pulled the trigger.
I went for it too. Signed up for the credit card at cashout to take $35 off the price too.
My inner monologue telling myself I don’t need a third right now….
My inner monologue telling myself I don’t need a third right now….
Haha I’m doing the same about a second 🤣
(deleted)
Down to $99 now for the standard table
Standard table is down to $99, but the LED table went back up to $399.
Cheers. I've been wracking my head about how to non-destructively modify a dining table for my game. I'm just going to pick one of these up and get a topper for it at some point.
Topper group buy? :)
View attachment 1706515 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1706515/)View attachment 1706516 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1706516/)
Siickk!
UPDATE: I bought a second Barrington
Will update with wife’s reaction upon delivery
UPDATE: I bought a second Barrington
Will update with wife’s reaction upon delivery
🤣
Has anybody converted a Barrington into a table topper? What would I need to think through to do this (while making sure I don't scuff my kitchen table)?
I just got the $99 Walmart deal - but really need a topper, not a full table.
Has anybody converted a Barrington into a table topper? What would I need to think through to do this (while making sure I don't scuff my kitchen table)?
I just got the $99 Walmart deal - but really need a topper, not a full table.
I would just use the Barrington.
But if needed, you could unfasten the legs from the Barrington and lay the board on top of your kitchen table. Lie a table cloth down to protect the table and voila!
Keep in mind the Barrington is 84x32”. Not sure how big your kitchen table is, but not being anchored could be an issue.
Again, my recommendation would be to use the Barrington as is.
Has anybody converted a Barrington into a table topper? What would I need to think through to do this (while making sure I don't scuff my kitchen table)?
I just got the $99 Walmart deal - but really need a topper, not a full table.
As noted in the last post, you may want to see if it will cover your complete table. Also the frame of the Barrington plus the playing surface height will bring the table much higher. It will feel like you're playing at " the kids table". I made a topper that perfectly covered my kitchen table, and just the plywood height made it feel like that.
I made individual armrests for my dining table to use with my topper. But if you get a Barrington for $100, it’s worth having. As pointed out, just removing the legs on the Barrington will work but it’s going to sit much higher and standard chairs will feel too low.
UPDATE:
Table #2 has officially been delivered.
As promised, here's the Wife Reaction Report...
FedEx driver starts backing into the driveway...
Wife: "Babe... who's backing into the driveway??"
Me: "FedEx."
Wife: "Why?"
Me: "Because I bought another poker table."
Wife: "...Why??"
Me: "It was a good deal."
...long pause...
Blank stare.
Eye roll.
Walks away.
I feel like I handled the negotiation phase about as well as I possibly could.
Now I just need to figure out where I'm sleeping tonight.
Has anybody converted a Barrington into a table topper? What would I need to think through to do this (while making sure I don't scuff my kitchen table)?
@ouraoura (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/24094/) did you ever go ahead and do this?
I'm in the same boat, but I'm too timid to take the initiative.
Arrived, used it last night and forgot to take action pics
Anyone have any tips or suggestions try can share so we don't feel the center seam under a topper with the foldable tables?
I came across this for stoves and countertops and it looks thin enough.
Arrived, used it last night and forgot to take action pics
View attachment 1710789 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1710789/)
Can you get us length & width measurements of the playing surface?
Arrived, used it last night and forgot to take action pics
View attachment 1710789 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1710789/)
The real question... what is in the slow cooker?!
Mississippi pot roast! It was a hit!
Can you get us length & width measurements of the playing surface?
Sorry I put the table away.
Anyone have any tips or suggestions try can share so we don't feel the center seam under a topper with the foldable tables?
I came across this for stoves and countertops and it looks thin enough.
I use a black piece of construction paper that the kids use for school. Two sheets so they cover the gap and then put the topper on top of that. No more line.
Has anyone measured the new table surface for ordering a topper?
Anyone have any tips or suggestions try can share so we don't feel the center seam under a topper with the foldable tables?
I came across this for stoves and countertops and it looks thin enough.
+1 to @horseshoez (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/5314/) recommendation to use a few pieces of cardstock. Has worked surprisingly well and costs next to nothing!
Do you guys find those Barrington tables heavy? I bought one off Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/?tag=amznpcfx-20) this year and it was super heavy, as in not whacking the skirt/edge (below the arm rest) on the floor would usually require two guys to get it in position. I'm worried I'm going to destroy that edge if I keep setting it up and putting it away solo over and over again.
Do you guys find those Barrington tables heavy? I bought one off Amazon this year and it was super heavy, as in not whacking the skirt/edge (below the arm rest) on the floor would usually require two guys to get it in position. I'm worried I'm going to destroy that edge if I keep setting it up and putting it away solo over and over again.
Yes, it’s heavy! There’s a bunch of posts about it. A popular option is to use a carry bag with straps like this one from Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/?tag=amznpcfx-20) :
https://a.co/d/04o8AoVa (https://a.co/d/04o8AoVa?tag=amznpcfx-20)
Yes, it’s heavy! There’s a bunch of posts about it. A popular option is to use a carry bag with straps like this one from Amazon :
https://a.co/d/04o8AoVa (https://a.co/d/04o8AoVa?tag=amznpcfx-20)
Hey thanks for the tip! Just got ordered it. That should keep spiderwebs and dust off as well.
I went with this guy instead after trying out the first one. Costs a little more but more rugged and can take more of a beating than the other one.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0GFDRYSVX?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_1&th=1 (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0GFDRYSVX?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_1&th=1&tag=amznpcfx-20)
There is always that one too!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0FHGZ86R...9KHRRH1Y&psc=1&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0FHGZ86R2/?coliid=IO9R7UOC9CRL9&colid=3EB729KHRRH1Y&psc=1&ref_=list_c_wl_lv_ov_lig_dp_it&tag=amznpcfx-20)
lol. That’s the winner.
I finally upgraded the cup holders in my Barrington LED table. Many thanks to those that posted their instructions and tips, especially @greedyintern (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/17235/) and @RadicusScout (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/10148/). I also want to reiterate an excellent point that @Dallas75 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/23674/) brought up. Separating the foam from the table by running your finger around the hole after removing the original cup holder is very helpful. I forgot to do that on one and I ended up with a foam donut cut out that I had to use spray adhesive to put back in place. Having the foam there keeps the new cupholders tight.
Rather than measuring the pilot hole location across the hole and trying to mark on the non-flat glue area left behind from the old cup holder, I just flipped over an old cup holder, marked my pilot hole location on it, drilled a hole in it, then flipped it back and reinserted it in the hole and drilled a pilot hole through the table using the old cup holder as a guide.
I started by doing just one cupholder from start to finish just to get process down. Then continued on to the other 9.
I had done the battery pack mod a while back but you can see by my pilot hole that I would need to move things. I used 3M Command Strips for holding the switch and battery pack (not pictured).
I'm very pleased with how it came out. (Topper by @rjdev7 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/members/1014/))
Again, thanks to the trailblazers that were the first to hack up their table and post about it here for others to use as a guide.
I went with this guy instead after trying out the first one. Costs a little more but more rugged and can take more of a beating than the other one.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0GFDRYSVX?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_1&th=1 (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0GFDRYSVX?ref_=ppx_hzsearch_conn_dt_b_fed_asin_title_1&th=1&tag=amznpcfx-20)
I keep mine in the inner box that the table came in. Though I don't use it very often.
My wife asked why it was still in the box, suggested I get a carry bag. After I showed her how easy it was to just put back in the box, she agreed to keep it that way lol.
I keep mine in the inner box that the table came in. Though I don't use it very often.
My wife asked why it was still in the box, suggested I get a carry bag. After I showed her how easy it was to just put back in the box, she agreed to keep it that way lol.
Same on my end, but I double up and pack it with the zippered bag as well. I learned from past mistakes that the edges can sometimes hit the ground when taking it out of the box, which can result in a small tear or scuff on the vinyl.
Is anyone dealing with ripping of the foam cover on their table?
What kind of materials are you guys using to repair these rips? I was thinking some kind of gear tape like tenacious tape maybe.
Is anyone dealing with ripping of the foam on their table?
What kind of materials are you guys using to repair these rips? I was thinking some kind of gear tape like tenacious tape maybe.
If you're referring to the black vinyl on the rails, it rips very easily. Can't speak to best material for a repair, but I would imagine a search in this/other threads would yield results.
Is anyone dealing with ripping of the foam cover on their table?
What kind of materials are you guys using to repair these rips? I was thinking some kind of gear tape like tenacious tape maybe.
If you're referring to the black vinyl on the rails, it rips very easily. Can't speak to best material for a repair, but I would imagine a search in this/other threads would yield results.
You could use a leather and vinyl repair kit similar to what you may use on car vinyl. Usually found for under $10.
You could use a leather and vinyl repair kit similar to what you may use on car vinyl. Usually found for under $10.
Thanks! Good idea. I found some on Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/?tag=amznpcfx-20) and just ordered it
I been thinking about just buying it from walmart for 250, any other Ideas? I been lowball people on facebook for crazy after I saw the 100 dollar sale in the summer but I don't think I'm going to get that price
Those super low sales might come once a year or less. Depending how long you've already waited I would wait until black Friday, if no good sales just buy it. $250 USD isn't a bad price, it's just $100 is a steal.
Those super low sales might come once a year or less. Depending how long you've already waited I would wait until black Friday, if no good sales just buy it. $250 USD isn't a bad price, it's just $100 is a steal.
one dude just offered me 190 which I’m now really tempted on
one dude just offered me 190 which I’m now really tempted on
Might as well wait until Black Friday if you don’t need it immediately
Might as well wait until Black Friday if you don’t need it immediately
ya I guess might as well
ya I guess might as well
Last year, it went down to $169 on Nov 24.
Then on Dec 8, it went down briefly to $120.
It fluctuates occasionally and need to grab fast when available.
https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/barrington-poker-table-thread.30910/post-2810740
Can only hope similar great deals show up this year.
Last year, it went down to $169 on Nov 24.
Then on Dec 8, it went down briefly to $120.
It fluctuates occasionally and need to grab fast when available.
https://www.pokerchipforum.com/threads/barrington-poker-table-thread.30910/post-2810740
Can only hope similar great deals show up this year.
Looks like I'd be hoping for the 120 then, because at 169 after tax it's not as hot of a deal ig
Looks like I'd be hoping for the 120 then, because at 169 after tax it's not as hot of a deal ig
IMO, $169 is still a great deal. Plus, don’t know if tariffs will be a factor this year.
duplicate. deleted.
I been thinking about just buying it from walmart for 250, any other Ideas? I been lowball people on facebook for crazy after I saw the 100 dollar sale in the summer but I don't think I'm going to get that price
I was selling a brand new Barrington on Facebook Marketplace for $150 (very reasonable) and I was getting these "lowball" guys like you. Negotiating is fine. Here's how my final negotiation went.
I was selling a brand new Barrington on Facebook Marketplace for $150 (very reasonable) and I was getting these "lowball" guys like you. Negotiating is fine. Here's how my final negotiation went.
View attachment 1742872 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1742872/)
View attachment 1742873 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1742873/)
LMAO, that's not how I lowball people but it's close enougth. I usally start asking if they are open to negotations and work from there. I will say I've gotten some crazy deals starting with a low offer just because the seller is in need to sell it so I've started throwing out those low offers
I got offered 150 for this custom table which makes me tempted. It's not foldable so i'm kinda debating. I think we do have extra room in the house for it though
View attachment 1742876 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1742876/)View attachment 1742877 (https://www.pokerchipforum.com/attachments/1742877/)
I got offered 150 for this custom table which makes me tempted. It's not foldable so i'm kinda debating. I think we do have extra room in the house for it though
So its reversible? Upside-down for cup holders or right side up for without? No offense but that thing is borderline Fugly Poker Table post worthy :ROFL: :ROFLMAO:
So its reversible? Upside-down for cup holders or right side up for without? No offense but that thing is borderline Fugly Poker Table post worthy :ROFL: :ROFLMAO:
Ugly or not, if the speed cloth is clean and in decent shape, it's worth $150. The wholes for the cup holders are just to make it lighter... :unsure:
The Barrington cup holders are borderline useless anyway. The one thing I've found that fits in them well is the mini bottles of water.
So it’s reversible? Upside-down for cup holders or right side up for without? No offense but that thing is borderline Fugly Poker Table post worthy :ROFL: :ROFLMAO:
I been wondering the same thing. Like what are the holes for lol. Cup holders weren’t a major thing I was looking for so I was fine to live with out it
I did a couple minor upgrades on a second Barrington while waiting for cupholders to arrive:
I found the toppers that fit my old Barrington are slightly too large for the newer table. I cut an oval out of 3/4" plywood, a little narrower than the padded rail, and installed it between the table and the rail. The toppers now lay flat under the overhang of the rail.
I dressed up the edge of the plywood with some iron-on banding. It adds a little, but not too much, weight
While clearing the glue out from under the cup holders I inadvertently rendered the nylon strap & buckle useless. I got these from Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/?tag=amznpcfx-20) (under $8) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C6SC6J6H?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1 (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C6SC6J6H?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1&tag=amznpcfx-20) and really like the look and function
nice job! I’ve been thinking, but haven’t looked yet if it’s possible, to install studs with wing nuts on the rails so I could loosen them in order to do something similar.